Black Tie Optional Dress Code Mastery for High Society Gentlemen

Black Tie Optional, also known as “Black Tie Invited” or “Formal Attire”, is a dress code that offers flexibility within formal evening wear.

The Black Tie Optional dress code allows you to wear traditional Classic Black Tie attire or a slightly less formal alternative that closely approximates its elegance.

In this guide, you’ll find the knowledge and inspiration to excel at Black Tie Optional events and ensure you always make a highly refined impression.

Black Tie Optional Dress Code

The key to mastering Black Tie Optional lies in understanding the subtle distinctions that separate it from strict Black Tie and less formal dress codes.

Dress Code	Key Garments
Classic Black Tie	Tuxedo, bow tie, patent leather shoes
Black Tie Optional	Tuxedo or dark suit, bow tie or necktie, Oxford shoes
Cocktail Attire	Dark suit, dress shirt, tie, leather shoes

Whenever invited to an event that mandates a Black-Tie Optional dress code, you have two choices:

• Full Black-Tie attire (or Classic)
• Formal Suit Ensemble

The ‘Classic’ Black Tie ensemble consists of a black wool barathea dinner jacket with silk facings, matching trousers with a silk stripe, a white marcella shirt with a wing or turndown collar, a black silk bow tie, black patent leather Oxford shoes, and black silk socks.

The ‘Optional’ Black Tie alternative requires a dark suit, ideally in midnight blue or charcoal, a white dress shirt, a dark silk tie or conservative bow tie, and black leather Oxford shoes.

However, attention to detail is paramount in both options, so you must ensure your clothes are impeccably tailored, your shoes are polished to a high shine, and your accessories are carefully chosen to complement rather than overpower your outfit.

Full Black Tie Outfit

If you opt for a full Black Tie outfit, consider exploring beyond the classic black tuxedo.

Midnight blue, popularised by the Duke of Windsor in the 1930s, is a sophisticated alternative that can appear even darker than black under artificial light.

Jacket

Choose a dinner jacket (tuxedo jacket) in black or midnight blue wool barathea.

Opt for a single-breasted model with one button or a double-breasted with four or six buttons.

The jacket should have silk-faced lapels in either peak or shawl style.

Peak lapels provide a classic, sharp look, while shawl lapels offer a softer, more traditional appearance.

Notch lapels are not appropriate for black tie.

Brands like Tom Ford or Brioni offer exquisite options.

Waistcoat/Cummerbund

A low-cut, black waistcoat in silk or wool barathea is traditional.

Alternatively, wear a black silk cummerbund.

Brands like Favourbrook offer elegant options for both.

Shirt

Select a white dress shirt with a marcella (piqué) bib front.

Choose a wing collar for utmost formality or a turn-down collar for versatility.

Ensure the shirt has double (French) cuffs for cufflinks.

Turnbull & Asser and Eton offer excellent choices.

Trousers

Wear trousers matching your jacket, featuring a single silk stripe down the outer seam.

The trousers should be high-waisted, pleated or flat-fronted and cut to just touch the top of your shoes with a slight break.

Socks

Choose black silk or fine merino wool socks that reach over the calf.

Brands like Pantherella offer luxurious options.

Shoes

Black patent leather Oxford shoes are the gold standard.

For a touch of old-world elegance, consider patent leather opera pumps.

John Lobb and Edward Green offer superb footwear choices for Black Tie attire.

Accessories

Wear a hand-tied black silk bow tie.

Add a white linen or silk pocket square in a simple fold.

Choose understated cufflinks and shirt studs in mother-of-pearl or plain gold.

A dress watch with a black leather strap completes the look.

Dark Suit Outfit

Suit

Select a dark suit in charcoal grey or midnight blue.

Choose a single-breasted or double-breasted model in fine worsted wool, possibly with a touch of mohair for sheen.

The jacket should have peak lapels to emulate the formality of a dinner jacket.

Ensure a conservative cut with structured shoulders and a defined waist.

Canali and Ermenegildo Zegna offer excellent options.

Shirt

Opt for a white dress shirt with a spread collar and double cuffs.

A very pale blue or ivory can add subtle personality.

Choose high-quality cotton, possibly with a subtle texture like herringbone.

Brands like Thomas Pink or Charles Tyrwhitt offer suitable options.

Trousers

The trousers should match your jacket.

The style can be pleated or flat-front, cut with a slight taper and minimal break, just touching the top of your shoes.

Socks

Choose fine, over-the-calf socks in black silk or merino wool.

Falke offers excellent options.

Shoes

Wear highly polished black leather Oxford shoes and avoid brogues or shoes with decorative elements.

Brands like Crockett & Jones or Church’s offer elegant choices.

Accessories

Wear a dark silk tie in black, charcoal, or midnight blue.

Alternatively, a silk bow tie in similar dark tones can bridge the gap between a suit and a full Black Tie.

Add a white linen pocket square and understated cufflinks in silver or onyx, and complete the look with a dress watch with a black leather strap.

Black Tie Attire Overcoats

If the weather necessitates an overcoat, choose a dark, single-breasted or double-breasted model that falls below the knee.

Overcoats from cashmere or wool in black, charcoal, or navy are ideal.

Prioritise brands like Crombie or Aquascutum.

Wear your overcoat draped over your shoulders for arrival and departure and fully on when outdoors.

Remove it upon entering the venue and check it with your hat and gloves.

Never wear an overcoat while seated at the event.

Black Tie Optional Styling Tips

While adhering to the basic rules of Black Tie Optional attire, there are ways to add personal flair and ensure you stand out for all the right reasons.

Ideal Fabrics

For tuxedos and dark suits, super 120s or 150s wool provides an excellent balance of durability and a luxurious feel.

Consider mohair-blend fabrics in warmer climates or seasons for their breathability and natural sheen.

Brands like Holland & Sherry or Scabal offer exceptional clothing options.

Colour Variations

While black and midnight blue are classic choices, a deep burgundy or bottle green velvet dinner jacket can be appropriate for creative black tie events.

Favourbrook and Huntsman offer striking options in these hues.

Shirt Alternatives

Consider a pale ivory or soft pink for a subtle departure from the classic white shirt.

These shades work particularly well with darker complexions. Emma Willis crafts exquisite shirts in these delicate hues.

Bow Tie Techniques

Master the art of tying your own bow tie.

A slightly asymmetrical, hand-tied bow adds character that a pre-tied version cannot match.

Drake’s offers an excellent selection of silk bow ties and helpful tying guides.

Cummerbund Etiquette

If you wear a cummerbund, ensure it’s worn with the pleats facing upwards.

Traditionally, cummerbund pleats were used to hold opera tickets.

A black silk cummerbund from Budd Shirtmakers is a timeless choice.

Waistcoat Styles

For those preferring a waistcoat to a cummerbund, consider a low-cut, horseshoe-shaped waistcoat.

This style elongates the torso and allows more of the shirt bib to be displayed.

Gieves & Hawkes offers beautifully crafted options.

Timepieces

While traditionally, watches were not worn with evening wear; a slim dress watch is acceptable.

Opt for a simple design with a black leather strap.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin or the Patek Philippe Calatrava are excellent choices.

Cufflink and Studs

Match your cufflinks and shirt studs for a cohesive look.

Mother-of-pearl or simple gold designs are classic choices, but for a touch of personality, you should consider semi-precious stones like onyx or lapis lazuli.

Deakin & Francis offers an array of elegant options.

Pocket Square Folds

A crisp white linen pocket square is essential.

The presidential fold (a straight horizontal line) is the most formal, while a puff fold adds a touch of sprezzatura.

Avoid overly complex folds that can appear fussy.

Footwear

Patent leather oxfords are the gold standard, but well-polished calf leather oxfords are also acceptable.

For those daring to be different, velvet slippers from brands like Stubbs & Wootton can add a dash of personality to a black tie ensemble.

Outerwear Options

In addition to the classic overcoat, a tailored topcoat or a Chesterfield coat can be appropriate.

For rainy evenings, a high-quality umbrella from James Smith & Sons adds practicality and style.

Seasonal Adaptations

White dinner jackets with black trousers are the preferred option for summer events.

Ensure the jacket is made from a breathable fabric like tropical-weight wool or a linen-silk blend.

Brunello Cucinelli offers luxurious summer-weight dinner jackets.

Black Tie Optional Outfit Ideas by Occasion

Gala Dinner Outfit Idea

For a prestigious charity gala or high-profile awards dinner, consider a midnight blue tuxedo from Tom Ford.

With its sharp peak lapels, the O’Connor model offers a slim, modern silhouette.

Pair this with a crisp white Turnbull & Asser dress shirt featuring a marcella bib and classic turn-down collar.

A hand-tied black silk bow tie from Drake’s adds the perfect touch of sophistication.

Complete the look with black patent leather oxfords from John Lobb – the William II model is great, and black silk over-the-calf socks from Pantherella for ultimate comfort and style.

For accessories, opt for mother-of-pearl shirt studs and cufflinks from Deakin & Francis, and tuck a crisp white linen pocket square from Simonnot-Godard into your breast pocket using a simple presidential fold.

 Awards Ceremony Outfit Idea

For a formal business event or corporate awards night, choose a charcoal grey suit from Canali; their Venezia line offers a beautiful wool-silk blend with a subtle sheen.

Pair with a pale blue herringbone shirt from Emma Willis, its texture adding depth to your ensemble. A midnight blue Grenadine silk tie from Drakes provides a sophisticated neckwear option.

Step into a pair of black calf leather oxfords from Crockett & Jones – the Audley model offers timeless elegance.

Falke’s silk over-the-calf socks in anthracite grey complement the outfit perfectly. Add a touch of personality with onyx and silver cufflinks from Tateossian.

Don’t forget a white linen pocket square with hand-rolled edges from Brunello Cucinelli, styled in a casual puff fold.

Art Gallery

For a creative event like an upscale art gallery opening or a fashion week party, consider a burgundy velvet dinner jacket from Favourbrook. Its rich texture and colour make a statement while remaining elegant.

For a classic foundation, pair this with black Barathea wool trousers from Thom Sweeney and a subtle sheen white voile cotton shirt from Charvet for a touch of luxury.

Ground the look with black patent leather whole-cut oxfords from Edward Green. Black silk socks from Bresciani ensure a seamless transition from trousers to shoes.

A black silk bow tie from Turnbull & Asser and a pair of vintage-inspired gold and onyx cufflinks from Cartier add the finishing touches.

Fold a black silk pocket square from Tom Ford into a simple TV fold for a sleek appearance.

Wedding Guest Outfit Idea

For a sophisticated summer wedding, opt for a cream dinner jacket in a lightweight wool-mohair blend from Brunello Cucinelli and midnight blue barathea trousers from YSL.

Combine with a white cotton-voile shirt from Finamore Napoli, black calf leather loafers from George Cleverley for a touch of relaxed elegance and fine cotton over-the-calf socks in navy from Mazarin.

A black grosgrain silk bow tie from Lanvin and mother-of-pearl cufflinks from Trianon add classic touches.

Complete the look with a champagne-coloured silk pocket square from Brunello Cucinelli, loosely arranged in a puff fold.

New Year’s Eve Outfit Idea

For a contemporary New Year’s Eve party or a modern restaurant opening, select a sharply cut midnight blue mohair-blend suit from Kilgour.

Pair this with a crisp white cotton poplin shirt from Cos with a band collar buttoned to the top for a clean, modern look. Forgo the tie for an edgy yet elegant appearance.

Step into sleek black leather derby shoes from Common Projects, their minimalist design complementing the modern aesthetic.

Choose fine-knit cotton socks in deep blue from Pantherella and brushed silver cufflinks from Alice Made This.

Finish with a white silk pocket square from Tom Ford, folded into a simple puff, for a touch of texture without overwhelming the minimalist ensemble.

Black Tie Optional Do’s and Don’ts

Do’s	Don’ts
Wear a tuxedo or dark suit	Wear a light-coloured or patterned suit
Choose a white dress shirt	Opt for a coloured or casual shirt
Wear black formal shoes	Wear brown shoes or casual footwear
Use a black bow tie or necktie	Choose a colourful or novelty tie
Include a pocket square	Forget the pocket square
Ensure proper fit and tailoring	Wear ill-fitting or unaltered garments
Opt for subtle accessories	Over-accessorise or use flashy pieces

Do: Wear a tuxedo or dark suit

The cornerstone of Black Tie Optional attire is either a classic tuxedo or a dark, formal suit.

For suits, wear colours like charcoal, midnight blue, or black.

Brands like Tom Ford, Canali, or Ermenegildo Zegna offer excellent options in both categories.

Don’t: Wear a light-coloured or patterned suits

Avoid light greys, tans, or suits with bold patterns.

These are too casual for a Black Tie Optional event and will make you appear underdressed among peers in tuxedos or dark suits.

Do: Wear white dress shirts

Crisp, white dress shirts are essential to this dress code.

For tuxedos, opt for a shirt with a marcella bib.

For suits, a standard white dress shirt with French cuffs is appropriate.

Turnbull & Asser and Eton offer excellent choices.

Don’t: Wear coloured or casual shirts

Avoid colourful or patterned shirts, button-down collars, and shirts made from casual fabrics like Oxford cloth.

Do: Wear black formal shoes

Black patent leather Oxfords are ideal for tuxedos, while polished black calf leather oxfords work well with suits.

John Lobb and Crockett & Jones offer superb options.

Don’t: Wear brown shoes or casual footwear

Brown shoes, no matter how formal, are inappropriate for Black Tie Optional events.

Likewise, avoid loafers, brogues, or any shoes with excessive detailing.

Do: Wear a black bow tie or necktie

A hand-tied black silk bow tie is the most formal option.

If wearing a suit, a black silk necktie is also acceptable.

Drake’s offers excellent choices for both.

Don’t: Wear colourful or novelty ties

Avoid coloured, patterned, or novelty neckwear that detract from the formality of the occasion.

Do: Wear a pocket square

A white linen or silk pocket square, folded, adds a touch of elegance.

Brands like Simonnot-Godard offer beautiful options.

Don’t: Forget the pocket square

A bare breast pocket looks unfinished in formal wear.

Always include a pocket square, but avoid overly complex folds.

Do: Ensure proper fit and tailoring

Proper fit is crucial whether you’re wearing a tuxedo or suit.

Tailoring is critical to ensure your garments fit impeccably.

Don’t: Wear ill-fitting or unaltered garments

Avoid wearing off-the-rack garments without alterations.

Baggy trousers, overly long sleeves, or a poorly fitting jacket will undermine your entire look.

Do: Wear subtle accessories

Match your tuxedo with understated cufflinks, a slim watch, and appropriate shirt studs.

Brands like Deakin & Francis offer elegant options.

Don’t: Over-accessorise

Avoid flashy jewellery, oversized watches, or any accessories that draw attention away from the overall elegance of your attire.

Black Tie Optional for Different Body Types

For Tall and Slim Builds

If you have a tall and slim frame, a double-breasted dinner jacket from Kingsman can add breadth to your shoulders and chest.

Also, a slightly wider lapel will balance your frame.

Trousers should have a slight break to avoid appearing too long.

Consider a cummerbund from Favourbrook to add visual interest to your midsection.

For Shorter Statures

For gentlemen of shorter stature, creating a lengthening effect is key.

Choose a single-breasted jacket with a lower button stance, like those from Suitsupply’s evening wear collection. A peaked lapel can help create the illusion of height.

Avoid turn-ups on trousers and ensure they have no break and fall cleanly on your shoes.

Opt for a bow tie rather than a long necktie to avoid bisecting your torso.

For Athletic Builds

Athletic builds can be flattered by a well-fitted single-breasted jacket that accentuates broad shoulders.

Wear a marcella-front shirt to showcase your physique without appearing tight and ensure your trousers are tapered to balance out your upper body.

For Larger Frames

Gentlemen with larger frames should opt for a single-breasted jacket with a single button, which creates a lengthening V-shape.

Canali offers excellent options. Choose peak lapels of a proportionate width to balance your chest.

Trousers should be flat-fronted and slightly taper to create a streamlined silhouette. A waistcoat can provide a smoother line under your jacket.

For Pear-Shaped Figures

If you carry more weight below the waist, draw attention upwards with details like a peak lapel or a tasteful pocket square from Drake’s.

A structured shoulder can help balance your silhouette, while a cummerbund will help smooth the transition from jacket to trousers.

FAQs

Q: Is a tuxedo necessary for a Black Tie Optional event?

A: While a tuxedo is always appropriate, it’s not mandatory. A dark, formal suit is an acceptable alternative.

Q: Can I wear a coloured shirt instead of a white one?

A: It’s best to stick with a white shirt. If you must deviate, a very pale blue or ivory might be acceptable, but white is always safest.

Q: Are patent leather shoes required?

A: Patent leather shoes are ideal with a tuxedo, but well-polished black calfskin oxfords are acceptable, especially with a suit.

Q: Can I wear a long tie instead of a bow tie?

A: Yes, a long tie in black or midnight blue silk is appropriate, especially when wearing a suit rather than a tuxedo.

Q: Is it acceptable to wear suspenders?

A: Yes, but ensure they’re proper formal suspenders (braces) and not visible when wearing your jacket.