Chinos, a stylish combination of smart trousers and casual cotton pants, originated in the American military.
Named after their birthplace, China, these versatile trousers have become a staple in men’s wardrobes worldwide.
Compared to jeans, chinos are a neater option and highly suitable for smart casual occasions.
The chino style of pants originated in the American military, where soldiers wore cotton pants that fitted slim to the body.
Nowadays, it refers to a pant style between a smart and casual trouser style that can be dressed up or down and worn to most events.
The chino is usually made from a cotton twill with elastane woven for stretch, making it one of the most comfortable pant options.
Chino Pants Origins
Initially designed for soldiers, chinos were adapted for civilian use post-World War II. They quickly became associated with a preppy, Ivy League style, embodying casual comfort and refined elegance.
Named after their birthplace of China, the chino pant is a more elegant version of the khaki, usually with fewer (or no) pockets and less resilience to the elements.
Pleated or flat-front chinos are usually more tapered, making them ideal for casual and casual dress wear.
While we never recommend wearing ‘skinny pants,’ chinos offer a far more streamlined look and ‘skinny’ or tailored appearance if that’s the customer’s desired effect.
Chinos are usually lightly woven compared to khaki pants, offering the wearer better protection in the heat.
They tend to be dressier and can be paired with a traditional navy blazer and tie, an Oxford cloth button-down shirt, or a polo shirt.
Today, chinos are available in many colours, from neutral classics to bright, bold, and even horror-movie kind of pants.
Despite offering dressier styles, these are still a very casual pant and should only be worn in appropriate environments.
In other words, don’t wear them to the boardroom. However, paired with the proper jacket, shirt, and tie, they are quite appropriate for dressier outdoor or daytime events.
Like khaki pants, they are often treated to be wrinkle-resistant.
However, they are not nearly as resilient and shouldn’t be worn for laborious activities.
Key Chino Characteristics
| Feature | Description |
|---|---|
| Fabric | Cotton twill or Gabardine, often with elastane for stretch |
| Waist | Belt loops (not worn with suspenders) |
| Pockets | Side pockets, jetted back pockets, optional change pocket |
| Hem | Often cuffed for better drape |
| Fly | Typically zip, though some prefer button fly for a classic touch |
Chino Styles – From Classic to Modern
Classic Chino Pants
The classic chino offers comfort and versatility in a clean cut. Ideally, it should feature:
- A higher rise, sitting at the natural waist
- A slight taper from knee to ankle
- Moderate fullness in the thigh
This chino offers the same comfort and versatility our customers have come to love but in a cleaner cut.
The pant features added stretch for comfort and flexibility, making it an easy go-to for every occasion.
Unfortunately, it isn’t easy to find RTW high-waisted yet slim tapered chinos today, even though that is the traditional look from the 1950s and 1960s.
As such, the only option is to choose from classic Preppy clothing brands or go custom.
Modern Chino Pants
Contemporary iterations often feature:
- A lower rise
- A slimmer cut throughout
- More stretch for comfort
With less fabric gathering around the seat, thigh, and ankle, the modern fit chino adds a smart finish to every outfit.
These slimmer chinos strike the perfect balance between form-fitting and comfort. They are made from a mid-weight soft twill fabric for added stretch and wearability.
Selecting the Perfect Pair of Chinos
Fit Guide
- Sit comfortably at or slightly below the natural waist
- Offer enough room in the seat and thighs for movement
- Taper gently from the knee to the ankle
- Break slightly on the shoe for a classic look
Colour Selection
- Khaki: The quintessential chino colour
- Navy: Versatile and easy to dress up
- Stone: A lighter option for summer
- Olive: A subtle alternative to khaki
The key to pulling off chino pants is all in the colour and fit.
The pant style should never be too long or baggy so the pants can elongate the leg and show some shape.
The perfect chino fit should sit above the hips at the natural waist and be fitted around the knee and hips without being tight.
The pants should gently taper from the knee and sometimes gather slightly around the ankle.
For more formal occasions, try a fit that mimics the look of a dress pant, ensuring it sits comfortably on the hip and does not bunch.
For a casual style, roll the bottom cuff 1.5-2 inches up for a cuffed look.
Chinos are available in a variety of colours. When choosing a colour, start with neutrals like Navy, Stone, White or Black.
This will allow you to have multiple outfit combinations suitable for most functions when paired with the right shirt.
Styling Chinos Tips for an Old Money Look
We’ve curated five outfit ideas that showcase how versatile chinos can be.
These ideas range from casual elegance to bold traditional style and incorporate high-quality, classic pieces from renowned brands.
The Ivy League Classic
– J. Press British khaki high-waisted chinos with a 1.75-inch cuff
– Mercer & Sons blue and white striped button-down Oxford shirt
– Polo Ralph Lauren navy wool blazer with brass buttons
– Alden Color 8 Shell Cordovan penny loafers
– Fort Belvedere over-the-calf socks in burgundy with subtle stripes
– Smathers & Branson needlepoint belt featuring sailing motifs
– Oliver Peoples Gregory Peck sunglasses in tortoiseshell
– Vintage Rolex Datejust with a silver dial and jubilee bracelet
Mediterranean Summer Soirée
– Incotex slim-fit stone-coloured chinos
– Luca Avitabile white linen shirt, worn untucked
– Tod’s Gommino driving shoes in tobacco suede
– Anderson’s woven leather belt in tan
– Persol 714 folding sunglasses with blue-tinted lenses
– Cartier Tank watch on a brown alligator strap
– Rubinacci linen pocket square with a sky-blue border
Transatlantic Business Casual
– Brooks Brothers Clark Fit navy chinos
– Turnbull & Asser pale blue Sea Island cotton shirt
– J. Press 3/2 roll navy hopsack blazer
– Drake’s navy knit tie
– Allen Edmonds Strand cap-toe Oxford in walnut
– Pantherella merino wool over-the-calf socks in navy
– Turnbull & Asser silk pocket square with paisley pattern
– Montblanc Meisterstück fountain pen
Autumn in New England
– Bill’s Khakis M3 Original Twill in British khaki
– Brooks Brothers burgundy lambswool cable-knit sweater
– Barbour Bedale waxed cotton jacket in olive
– Crockett & Jones Coniston boots in dark brown suede
– Drakes wool/silk scarf with earthy tones
– Lock & Co. Hatters tweed flat cap
– Omega Speedmaster Professional on a brown leather strap
The Bold Traditionalist
– Cordings mustard yellow flat-front chinos
– Turnbull & Asser white Sea Island cotton shirt with double cuffs
– Turnbull & Asser navy and gold silk paisley ascot
– Polo Ralph Lauren camel hair single-breasted blazer
– Edward Green Dover split-toe derby shoes in dark oak antique
– Albert Thurston braces in burgundy box cloth
– Rubinacci silk pocket square with burgundy and gold geometric pattern
– Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso watch
– Anglo-Italian horn-rimmed glasses
Premier Chino Brands
Brooks Brothers: The originators of the modern chino, offering a range of fits and colours with a classic American aesthetic.
J. Press: Made in USA options with authentic Ivy League heritage, known for their traditional cut and quality construction.
Incotex: Renowned for the finest Italian craftsmanship, offering luxurious fabrics and impeccable tailoring.
Hertling: Small-batch, high-quality trousers made in New York, focusing on traditional styles and superior construction.
Cordings: A British institution offering a rainbow of colours in traditional cuts, perfect for those seeking bold yet classic options.
Bills Khakis: American-made chinos focused on durability and classic styling, inspired by WWII military-issue khakis.
Rota: Italian-made trousers known for their exceptional fit and use of premium fabrics, popular among menswear enthusiasts.
Polo Ralph Lauren: Offering a range of chinos embodying classic American preppy style, from casual to dress options.
Zanella: Luxury Italian brand known for its high-quality fabrics and expert tailoring, offering classic and modern cuts.
Berle: Family-owned American company producing high-quality trousers since 1946, known for their traditional southern preppy style.
Each of these brands offers unique characteristics in terms of fit, fabric, and style, catering to different preferences while maintaining a high standard of quality and craftsmanship.
Mastering the art of selecting and styling chinos can effortlessly project an air of understated elegance and timeless sophistication.
Remember, true style lies not just in the garments themselves but in the confidence and grace with which they are worn.