The Ulster coat is a classic and versatile overcoat, perfect for those who appreciate timeless style and practical elegance.
With its rich heritage and distinctive features, the Ulster coat is a must-have for any gentleman’s wardrobe.
Understanding how to choose and style an Ulster coat is critical for those aiming to exude a refined and sophisticated image.
Whether navigating the city streets or attending formal events, mastering the Ulster coat will set you apart as a modern gentleman.
Ulster Coat Characteristics
Several key characteristics define an authentic Ulster coat:
Long and Double-Breasted
A traditional Ulster is long and double-breasted, featuring two vertical, parallel rows of buttons.
Common configurations include 6×3 or 8×4 buttons, typically placed lower on the coat to emphasize length.
Notched Lapels (Ulster Collar)
While most double-breasted garments have peaked lapels, the Ulster coat has uniquely notched lapels, known as the Ulster collar.
These lapels can be easily folded over when the coat is fully buttoned.
Patch Pockets
The Ulster always has patch pockets to express the informal, country character of the overcoat.
Contrast Stitching
For the same reason, an Ulster coat shows contrast stitching along the edges and cuffs.
Cuffs
A true Ulster coat always features cuffs on the sleeves.
Belt
The Ulster cut is cut generously and may thus look a little bulky.
To give the silhouette more shape, the Ulster typically has a belted back (“half belt”) with adjustable buttons to allow the wearer to change the degree of waist suppression.
An Ulster coat also has long pleats in the back for comfort and ease of movement.
Sometimes, you can also see a belt that goes completely around and buckles in the front, similar to a trenchcoat.
Tweed
A genuine Ulster is made out of tweed, specifically, Donegal Tweed.
This heavy tweed—starting at about 22 oz. per yard (about 600 g per meter)—was originally invented in Donegal County in the province of Ulster.
It is characterized by its rustic hand-woven look and its multicoloured dots.
Hood/Cape (Optional)
In the 1880s, Ulster overcoats often had a hood, cape, or pelerine.
Many people associate the cape worn by Sherlock Holmes with the Ulster coat.
While these overcoats are still Ulster overcoats, a hood or cape is not essential for an Ulster.
Ulster Coat Utility
Starting in the 1890s, capes slowly disappeared, and today, the Ulster is rarely seen with one.
With its heavy cloth, roomy cut, and large pockets, the Ulster is an ideal travel companion during the colder half of the year.
The cloth is very sturdy, so it won’t wear out easily—even if you carry a bag with a shoulder strap.
The mottled Donegal tweed structure hides dirt and stains.
Ulster Coat Variations
Today, there are numerous variations of the Ulster coat, and some variations may feature raglan sleeves or lack cuffs.
The characteristics outlined above describe a true Ulster, but if you come across an overcoat with some Ulster-like features but missing others—don’t worry.
Just wear it and enjoy its warmth. Chances are it will be with you for a long time.
Choosing the Right Ulster Coat
The Gorge Line
Ulsters vary in how the gorge line is cut. Choose an Ulster coat with the gorge sloping very slightly down, quite closed, and starting high on the chest.
The more closed gorge makes it look a little smarter. Some prefer the gorge line to be more horizontal, believing it to be more flattering.
The Back
A lot of bespoke coats build extra room and fullness into the back to make it easier to get on and off and to aid movement when worn.
This excess is gathered under the belt at the waist, then flares out in the skirt, making your back look big and your waist small.
Choose an Ulster coat with one long pleat running down the length of the back and two additional box pleats in the middle, one on either side.
Those pleats should end in 5cm darts rather than being tacked closed.
The central pleat should not end under the belt but in line with the lower darts around the hips’ level.
The Collar
The collar should be made of one piece of material folded over, where most have some form of insert on the back to give it shape.
Without either the insert or a cut under the collar, a lot of ironwork is required to shape it.
This ironwork has to be precise, creating a curve that perfectly meets the lapel line on either side.
Pockets and Sleeves
Elsewhere, the details that give the coat personality are its curved breast pocket, natural sleeve head, and two lines of stitching around the edges.
The neatest tailoring work on pockets and sleeves is attributed to English or North Italian tailors.
There’s also the turnback cuff, with the seam on the inside or outside of the sleeve. Most tailors go for the outside.
How to Properly Wear an Ulster Coat
The most classic way of styling the Ulster coat is to wear it over a grey worsted suit, a pale-blue poplin shirt, a silk tie, and black leather brogue shoes.
If you opt for a camel brown Ulster coat, pair it with a charcoal scarf tied in a classic knot, brown leather gloves, and a silk tie and pocket square in the same colour.
This look is ideal for a formal business event, especially if styled with a double-breasted pinstripe suit.
An Ulster coat is not just an overcoat; it’s a statement of style and sophistication.
With these guidelines, you can select and style properly an Ulster coat that complements your wardrobe and enhances your presence.
Ulster Coat Modern Touches
While traditional styling of the Ulster coat remains timeless, contemporary fashion has embraced variations and reinterpretations:
Shorter Length
Modern Ulster coats are shorter for a more youthful and casual vibe.
Innovative Material
Tweed remains a classic choice, but modern Ulster coats may incorporate other durable fabrics for enhanced practicality.
Accessorize
From leather gloves to patterned scarves, accessories can add a personal touch to your Ulster coat ensemble.
Conclusion
Mastering the art of choosing and styling an Ulster coat is essential for any gentleman who values classic elegance and practical sophistication.
Whether you opt for a traditional tweed Ulster or a modern interpretation, understanding its unique characteristics and how to wear it will elevate your wardrobe and ensure you exude confidence and style in any setting.
With these insights and guidelines, you can make the Ulster coat a versatile and impactful part of your capsule wardrobe.
Embrace its heritage, experiment with different styles, and enjoy the timeless appeal of this iconic overcoat.