The undershirt is a crucial yet often overlooked garment essential to men aiming to present a polished appearance in formal and business settings.
Evolved from military undergarments of the early 20th century, the modern undershirt – unlike the common t-shirt – is specifically designed to be worn invisibly beneath dress shirts and other formal wear as a base.
Undershirts ensure the dress shirt drapes correctly for a crisp, wrinkle-free appearance and prevent sweat marks from showing through the outer layers.
In this guide, we’ll explore how choosing the right undershirt can provide a smooth foundation that improves the look of your dress shirts and suits and enhances your overall presentation.
Undershirt vs T-shirt Differences
| Feature | Undershirt | T-shirt |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Close-fitting, body-hugging | Looser, relaxed fit |
| Length | Longer, stays tucked in | Hip-length |
| Neckline | Deep V-neck or low crew neck | Standard crew neck |
| Fabric | Thin, moisture-wicking | Thicker cotton |
| Purpose | Base layer under formal shirts | Standalone casual wear |
Undershirts are engineered to be virtually invisible beneath dress shirts.
The close-fitting design and longer length ensure they stay neatly tucked in, while the deep V-neck or low crew neck remains hidden even when shirt collars are unbuttoned.
T-shirts, designed for standalone wear, have a looser fit and standard crew neck.
The thicker fabric of t-shirts can disrupt the lines of a well-tailored shirt, making them unsuitable as a base layer for formal attire.
Undershirt Types and Specific Uses
| Undershirt | Neckline | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| V-neck | Deep V-shaped neckline | Dress shirts with open collars |
| Crew neck | Round neckline | Fully buttoned dress shirts, ties |
| Tank top | Sleeveless with wide straps | Warmer climates, minimal visibility |
| A-shirt | Sleeveless with narrow straps | Extreme heat, maximum breathability |
V-neck undershirts are versatile options for most formal and business settings.
The deep V-shaped neckline remains hidden when wearing dress shirts with open collars, making them ideal for both buttoned-up and more relaxed looks.
Crew neck undershirts work well with fully buttoned dress shirts and ties. The higher neckline provides additional coverage and is less likely to show when wearing a tie.
Tank top undershirts, with wider straps and full chest coverage, balance breathability and coverage and are suitable for warmer climates while providing a smooth base layer.
A-shirt undershirts, also known as ‘wifebeaters’, have narrow straps and provide minimal coverage.
While offering maximum breathability in extreme heat, they provide less protection against sweat marks and are visible under many dress shirts.
Ideal Undershirt Material
| Material | Properties | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton | Breathable, soft, absorbent | Everyday wear, cooler climates |
| Microfiber | Moisture-wicking, quick-drying | Active lifestyles, warmer climates |
| Modal | Soft, durable, resists shrinking | Luxury feel, frequent washing |
| Merino wool | Temperature-regulating, odour-resistant | All seasons, extended wear |
Cotton undershirts are ideal for their softness and breathability; great for cooler climates and match buyers who prefer natural fabrics.
Microfiber undershirts excel in moisture management, making them ideal for active professionals or those in warmer climates. The quick-drying properties help maintain a dry, comfortable feel throughout the day.
Modal undershirts offer a luxurious feel with excellent durability. The fabric resists shrinking and retains its shape well, making it a good choice for undershirts that require frequent washing.
While less common, merino wool undershirts provide excellent temperature regulation and natural odour resistance. They work well in all seasons and are suitable for extended wear or travel.
The Right Undershirt Colour
| Undershirt Colour | Best For | Avoid With |
|---|---|---|
| White | Light-coloured dress shirts | Very sheer or translucent shirts |
| Grey (Heather) | Most shirt colours | Very light pastels |
| Nude/Skin Tone | All shirt colours, especially white | N/A |
| Black | Dark-coloured shirts | Light-coloured or white shirts |
The right colour choice ensures your undershirt enhances rather than detracts from your overall look, regardless of the shirt colour or pattern you wear.
- White Dress Shirts: Choose a nude or skin-tone undershirt that closely matches your complexion. This ensures invisibility even under the crispest white shirts.
- Light Blue Shirts: Opt for a light grey or pale blue undershirt. These colours blend well without showing through the fabric.
- Pink Shirts: Select a very pale pink or light heather grey undershirt to complement the shirt colour without contrast.
- Navy or Dark Blue Shirts: A navy or black undershirt works best, preventing any show-through while maintaining a cohesive look if the shirt gaps.
- Patterned Shirts: Choose an undershirt that matches the predominant background colour of the pattern. For example, with a blue and white striped shirt, opt for a light blue undershirt.
- Black Dress Shirts: A black undershirt is optimal, ensuring no visibility even if the shirt is slightly sheer.
- Pastel Shirts: Select undershirts in very pale versions of the shirt colour, or opt for a light heather grey, which tends to blend well with most pastels.
Undershirt Styling and Fit
| Body Fit | Ideal | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Torso | Snug, no excess fabric | Loose or baggy |
| Length | Extends past waistband | Too short, rides up |
| Sleeves | Mid-bicep, close to arm | Too long or loose |
| Neckline | Sits below the shirt collar | Visible above the shirt collar |
- Torso Fit: The undershirt should hug your body without constricting movement. A snug fit eliminates bunching under your dress shirt, ensuring a smooth silhouette.
- Length: Choose undershirts that extend several inches past your waistband. This extra length prevents the undershirt from becoming untucked when you move or stretch.
- Sleeve Fit: Opt for sleeves that end at mid-bicep and fit closely to your arm. This prevents bulging under shirt sleeves and provides optimal coverage for sweat protection.
- Neckline: The neckline of your undershirt should sit comfortably below your shirt collar. For open-collar looks, choose deep V-necks to ensure the undershirt remains hidden.
How to Wear an Undershirt
Under a Crisp White Dress Shirt
For high-stakes business meetings, pair a white V-neck microfiber undershirt from Sunspel with a crisp white Thomas Pink dress shirt.
Layer this under a charcoal Savile Row suit from Gieves & Hawkes. Complete the look with oxblood John Lobb oxford shoes and a burgundy Hermès tie.
The V-neck undershirt ensures no visibility at the collar, even if you loosen your tie post-meeting.
Under a Light Oxford Cloth Button-down Shirt
Opt for a light grey crew neck modal undershirt from Hanro beneath a light blue Oxford cloth button-down from Brooks Brothers. Pair with navy chinos from Polo Ralph and brown suede loafers from Tod’s.
Add a textured blazer from Boglioli for a polished finish. The crew neck undershirt provides a clean line under the open-collar shirt, perfect for transitioning from day to evening.
Under a Pastel Pink Linen Shirt
Choose a tan/nude V-neck undershirt from Zimmerli under a pastel pink linen shirt from Turnbull & Asser.
Wear this with a lightweight khaki cotton suit from Suit Supply and brown leather monk strap shoes from Santoni.
The undershirt’s colour blends seamlessly with your skin tone, remaining invisible even in the summer heat.
Under a Navy Polo Shirt
Layer a heather grey crew neck undershirt from Derek Rose under a navy polo shirt from Sunspel.
Pair with beige cotton-linen blend trousers from Corneliani and white leather sneakers from Common Projects.
The undershirt adds a layer of refinement to this casual ensemble, preventing any show-through from the polo.
Under a White Wing-collar Dress Shirt
For formal occasions, wear a white V-neck undershirt from Orlebar Brown beneath a white wing-collar dress shirt from Turnbull & Asser.
Pair with a black wool tuxedo from Tom Ford, patent leather oxford shoes from Church’s, and a black silk bow tie from Polo Ralph.
The black undershirt remains invisible under the formal white shirt, providing a smooth base for your tuxedo shirt.
Mistakes to Avoid
| Mistake | Consequence | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Visible undershirt lines | Unprofessional appearance | Choose thinner, well-fitted undershirts |
| Undershirt showing at collar | Ruins the clean look of an outfit | Opt for deeper V-necks or lower crew necks |
| Wearing white under light-coloured shirts | It can be visible through the shirt | Use skin-tone or grey undershirts instead |
| Undershirt too short | Becomes untucked easily | Choose longer undershirts that stay tucked |
Visible undershirt lines create an unprofessional look. Choose undershirts made from thin, smooth fabrics that don’t create bulges or lines under your dress shirt.
An undershirt showing at the collar ruins an outfit’s clean look. Select undershirts with deeper V-necks for open-collar looks or lower crew necks for buttoned-up styles.
White undershirts under light-coloured shirts often show through. Opt for skin-tone or light grey undershirts, which remain invisible under most shirt colours.
Short undershirts that become untucked easily defeat the purpose of wearing one. Choose longer styles that stay tucked in throughout the day.
Styling Tips
| Styling Tip | Benefit |
|---|---|
| Rotate your undershirts | Extends lifespan, ensures freshness |
| Match undershirt to skin tone | Invisible under all shirt colours |
| Consider seasonality | Optimal comfort year-round |
| Invest in quality | Better fit, durability, and comfort |
Rotate Your Undershirts: Don’t wear the same undershirt two days in a row. Rotating extends the lifespan of your undershirts and ensures you always have a fresh layer against your skin.
Match Undershirt to Skin Tone: For ultimate versatility, buy undershirts that match your skin tone. If you’re unsure how, check out our Seasonal Colour Analysis guide for men.
Season Ready: Choose lighter, more breathable undershirts for summer and slightly heavier ones for winter. This ensures optimal comfort year-round.
Buy Quality: High-quality undershirts might cost more initially, but they offer better fit, durability, and comfort. They’re less likely to lose shape or develop holes, making them a wise long-term investment.
Conclusion
As a small detail that significantly changes your overall appearance, the often overlooked undershirt plays a crucial role in perfecting a man’s formal and business attire.
Selected and worn correctly creates a smooth foundation for dress shirts and suits, enhancing the overall silhouette and polish of one’s appearance.
From selecting the right style – V-neck, crew neck, or tank top – to choosing the appropriate colour for various shirts, wearing undershirts is subtle yet impactful.
The ideal undershirt remains invisible, preventing show-through and maintaining a crisp, wrinkle-free look throughout the day.
By considering factors such as fit, colour, and neckline in relation to your outer garments, you can significantly elevate your style quotient.