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What’s This About
The college clothes that last are the ones students have worn for decades, including dark jeans, plain T-shirts, chinos, an Oxford button-down shirt, a sweatshirt, a flannel shirt and a simple jacket.
This guide explains why each garment has lasted and what to look for so it wears well, such as
Dark-wash jeans and how to check denim and stitching
Plain T-shirts and the difference between cotton and blends
Chinos and the Oxford button-down shirt for smarter days
Sweatshirts, flannel shirts and jackets for changeable weather
A leather belt and how to tell solid leather from bonded straps
and many more!
Buy fewer, better-made versions of these clothes and they will still be useful after graduation.
Key Points
01Choose the leg shape you like for jeans and chinos, then check the waist and seat are comfortable sitting down.
02Dense cotton jersey, a firm collar rib and straight side seams are signs of a T-shirt that will keep its shape.
03A plain crewneck sweatshirt or flannel shirt adds warmth that comes off easily in heated rooms.
04Washing dark clothes inside out in cool water and following the care label helps them last.
Some clothes have been worn by students for generations and still look current, which makes them a sensible foundation for a college wardrobe.
Oxford button-down shirts and khaki trousers, for example, are among the classic garments of the American campus look that the Museum at FIT traced in its 2012 Ivy Style exhibition.
This guide explains why each garment has lasted, what to look for so it wears well, and how to wear it on campus and afterwards.
If you want a packing list with suggested numbers of each garment, use our college wardrobe essentials checklist alongside this guide.
Everyday clothes
These are the clothes you will reach for most days, so durability and comfort matter more than novelty.
Dark-wash jeans
Jeans last because denim is a sturdy cotton twill, and a dark, plain wash can be worn with a T-shirt for class or an Oxford shirt for dinner out.
A dark wash also shows small marks less than a pale one, which helps on a busy week.
Look for firm, even denim, strong stitching at the pockets and a zip or buttons that run smoothly.
Choose the leg shape you like, whether slim, straight or relaxed, and check that the waist and seat are comfortable sitting down; our guide to dressing for your body shape explains how different cuts change your outline if you want to go further.
Wear them with a plain T-shirt and white trainers, or with an Oxford shirt and boots.
Plain T-shirts
A plain T-shirt in white, black, heather grey or navy has lasted because it goes under almost every other garment in this guide.
Check for cotton jersey that feels dense rather than see-through, a collar rib that springs back when you stretch it, and side seams that run straight down the body.
Cotton is soft and breathable; cotton blends with a little polyester can dry faster and hold their shape, so check the label and choose what suits you.
For fit, the shoulder seam should sit near the edge of your shoulder, and a hem that falls around the middle of your trouser fly looks neat untucked.
It works on its own in warm weather, or under a flannel shirt, an open Oxford shirt or a jacket.
Chinos
As for staying power, chinos are lightweight cotton twill trousers that sit between jeans and formal trousers, so one pair covers many settings.
Choose khaki, navy or olive in a firm twill, with a flat front or a single pleat and enough room in the seat to sit comfortably.
For presentations and business casual interviews, wear chinos with an Oxford shirt and a leather belt, or pair them with a T-shirt and trainers at the weekend.
Layers
Lecture halls, libraries and outdoor walks between them can feel very different, so layers that go on and off easily are useful.
Crewneck sweatshirt
A plain crewneck sweatshirt is warm, easy to wash and works over a T-shirt or a collared shirt, which is why it has stayed a campus standard.
A good sweatshirt has a brushed or loopback cotton inside, ribbed cuffs and hem that hold their shape, and a plain grey or navy colour.
Pull it on over a T-shirt on a cool day, or over an Oxford shirt with the collar showing for a smarter look.
Plaid flannel shirt
Flannel is a brushed fabric, usually cotton or wool, and a checked flannel shirt has lasted because it gives warmth, texture and colour without much effort.
When buying, look for a soft, even brushed surface on both sides, checks that line up at the front placket, and enough room across the back to wear it as an overshirt.
Leave it open over a plain T-shirt with jeans for class or at the weekend.
Denim or bomber jacket
Both shapes have been worn for decades and suit the cool weeks of autumn and spring.
The bomber descends from military flying jackets such as the leather Type A-2, which the US Army Air Corps introduced in the early 1930s and which the Smithsonian’s National Air and Space Museum holds in its collection; many casual bombers today are made in lighter nylon or cotton.
A denim jacket softens and fades with wear, while a bomber jacket gives a smoother, sportier line.
On a denim jacket, look for sturdy denim and metal buttons; on a bomber, a smooth zip and ribbed cuffs and hem that are not already slack.
Try a denim jacket with chinos and a T-shirt, or a black or olive bomber with dark jeans; in very cold weather, either can go under a larger coat if it fits.
Oxford button-down shirt
The Oxford cloth button-down shirt (OCBD) is one of the classic garments of American campus dress named in the FIT exhibition, and its slightly heavy basket-weave cotton looks relaxed when open and neat when buttoned.
Go for light blue or white Oxford cloth, a collar with a soft roll when buttoned down, and buttons that are sewn on firmly.
Button it up with chinos for a presentation, or wear it open over a T-shirt with jeans.
Finishing touches
Shoes and accessories get daily wear, so practical construction matters as much as appearance.
Simple trainers
The reason a plain white leather or canvas trainer lasts is that it goes with jeans, chinos and shorts, and the shape changes little from year to year.
Look for a stitched or firmly bonded sole, a cushioned insole for long walks across campus, and leather or canvas you can clean.
Pair them with almost everything in this guide and keep them clean with a damp cloth.
A sturdy backpack
A plain backpack in a neutral colour suits every outfit and outlives most trend-led bags.
The features worth checking are a padded laptop compartment, comfortable straps, strong zips and a water-resistant fabric.
A classic watch
A simple watch with a plain face has lasted because it goes with casual and smart clothes alike, and it lets you check the time when your phone is put away.
Pick one with a clear dial and a leather, canvas or metal strap you find comfortable; an inexpensive watch does the job as well as a costly one.
A leather belt
Good leather wears in rather than out, and a plain leather belt in brown or black finishes chinos and tucked-in shirts, which is why it lasts.
A good belt is a single strip of leather rather than a bonded or layered strap, with a plain metal buckle and a length that lets you fasten it at the middle hole.
Wear it with chinos and a tucked-in Oxford shirt; match brown with brown shoes and black with black shoes if you want a tidy look.
Making these clothes last
Wash jeans and dark T-shirts inside out in cool water to slow fading, and follow the care label on every garment.
Hang shirts and jackets on hangers rather than leaving them folded in a pile, and let leather shoes and boots dry naturally away from radiators.
Replace a T-shirt once the collar has stretched, rather than the whole set at once.
Building on the basics
With these clothes in place, you have a foundation that combines in many ways and will still be useful after graduation.
For a classic campus look that builds on the same shirts, chinos and knitwear, see our guides to preppy style and wardrobe essentials and Ivy League outfit ideas.
For a practical packing list with suggested numbers and a smart outfit for interviews, see our college wardrobe essentials checklist.