Chinos Styling Guide for Men, Fit, Colours and Five Classic Outfits

Chinos and khakis

Many shops use chinos and khakis for the same trousers.

Strictly, chino is the cloth and khaki is a colour, so a pair of chinos can be khaki, navy, olive or any other colour.

Where retailers draw a line, chinos usually mean a lighter, cleaner, flat-front trouser with neat pockets, and khakis a slightly heavier, more relaxed trouser, often in tan.

Chinos look neater than jeans and work with a navy blazer and tie, an Oxford cloth button-down shirt or a polo shirt.

They are still casual trousers, so for a formal business meeting tailored wool trousers or a suit are the safer choice, while chinos with a jacket and tie suit smart daytime events and many business casual offices.

Many chinos are treated to resist creasing, and lighter weights are cooler in hot weather than heavier khakis or jeans.

Key chino characteristics

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Classic chino pants

The classic chino has a fuller, more traditional cut with

A higher rise, sitting at or near the natural waist

Moderate room in the thigh

A slight taper from knee to ankle

This cut recalls the chinos worn in the 1950s and 1960s, and high-rise versions are made by many traditional menswear makers and by tailors who make trousers to order.

Modern chino pants

Contemporary chinos often have

A lower rise

A slimmer cut through the seat and leg

More stretch for comfort

Slimmer chinos have less cloth around the seat, thigh and ankle, which gives a neater line with short jackets and trainers.

Both cuts can look good, so choose the silhouette you prefer, then make sure it fits you.

Fit guide

Sit comfortably at or slightly below your natural waist

Give enough room in the seat and thighs to sit and walk easily

Follow the leg shape you prefer, straight or tapered, without pulling across the thigh

End at the top of the shoe with little or no break, or cuffed above the ankle for a casual look

For smarter occasions, choose a pair that looks close to tailored trousers, with a smooth front that sits flat, a crease and a clean hem.

For a casual look, roll the hems once or twice, about 4cm to 5cm each time.

Colour selection

Khaki, the traditional chino colour

Navy, which is easy to dress up

Stone, a lighter option for summer

Olive, a quieter alternative to khaki

Grey, white and black, which are useful once you have the basics

Starting with two or three neutral colours gives you many outfits from the shirts and jackets you already own.

The Ivy League classic

Wear high-rise khaki chinos with a turn-up, a blue and white striped Oxford button-down shirt, a navy wool blazer with brass buttons, burgundy over-the-calf socks and burgundy penny loafers.

Add a needlepoint or woven leather belt, tortoiseshell sunglasses and a simple vintage watch.

Mediterranean summer evening

Pair slim stone chinos with a white linen shirt worn untucked, a tan woven leather belt and tobacco suede driving shoes.

Folding sunglasses and a watch on a brown leather strap finish the outfit.

Transatlantic business casual

Wear navy chinos with a crease, a pale blue shirt, a navy hopsack blazer, a navy knitted tie, navy over-the-calf socks and walnut brown cap-toe Oxfords.

A paisley silk pocket square adds a little colour.

Autumn in New England

Wear khaki twill chinos, a burgundy cable-knit lambswool jumper over a white Oxford shirt, an olive waxed cotton jacket and dark brown suede boots.

Add a wool scarf in earthy tones and a tweed flat cap on cold days.

The bold traditionalist

Wear mustard yellow flat-front chinos with brace buttons, a white double-cuff shirt, a camel hair single-breasted blazer, burgundy braces and dark brown Derby shoes.

A navy and gold silk neckerchief and a patterned silk pocket square suit the same confident colours.