Old Money Formal Wear for Men – Unlock the Secret Arsenal to Power Dressing

Old Money Formal Wear epitomises sartorial excellence through a fashion style that has clothed the world’s most influential men for generations.

This distinctive way of dressing for formal occasions embodies traditional elegance and projects an aura of confidence, setting the wearer apart in any high-stakes environment.

Formal Wear communicates sophistication and heritage – qualities highly prized in business, politics, and high society – so mastering this look is crucial for positions of influence across various professional and social spheres.

What is Old Money Formal Wear?

Formal Wear and Old Money are two powerful concepts in men’s fashion.

‘Old Money’ refers to wealth inherited over several generations, associated with established families and enduring social prestige.

As such, the ‘Old Money’ aesthetic reflects family heritage, tradition, silent luxury, and wealth.

Formal Wear encompasses the most elegant garments in a man’s wardrobe, designed for events demanding the highest level of sartorial decorum.

The fusion of these concepts – Old Money Formal Wear – represents the pinnacle of refined dressing, characterized by impeccable tailoring, premium fabrics, and subtle yet distinguished details.

Formal Wear Origins

The roots of Formal Wear trace back to the 19th century, a period of fashion and style influenced by Beau Brummell in Regency England.

Brummell revolutionised men’s fashion by championing simplicity, impeccable fit, and superior fabrics over the flamboyant styles of the aristocracy.

This philosophy laid the cornerstone for modern formal wear and the Old Money aesthetic.

Throughout the 20th century, this style was further honed by society’s upper echelons in Europe and America.

Prestigious institutions like Oxford, Cambridge, and the Ivy League were pivotal in shaping and propagating this sartorial tradition, which became synonymous with old-world elegance and social refinement.

Old Money Formal Wear vs Similar Styles

Old Money Formal Wear is the secret arsenal a dapper man can use to dress for more than the occasion, but for the legacy he wishes to create.

It’s an investment in one’s image that pays dividends in the currency of respect, influence, and opportunities.

In business, an impeccably tailored tuxedo or dinner jacket can set the stage for successful negotiations and partnerships.

At social galas and charity events, it signals one’s belonging to a cultured and refined circle.

For entrepreneurs, it projects an image of trustworthiness and long-term stability, essential for inspiring confidence in stakeholders and peers alike.

Old Money Formal Wear Key Pillars

Traditional Elegance

Trad elegance forms the cornerstone of Old Money Formal Wear.

This principle advocates for classic styles that remain relevant regardless of passing trends.

Historically, this approach emerged as a reaction to the constantly changing fashions of the nouveau riche in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

By adhering to timeless designs, Old Money dressers conveyed a sense of stability and enduring taste.

Quality Craftsmanship

During the Industrial Revolution, when mass-produced clothing became widely available, the Old Money invested in quality garments over trendy but cheaper ones.

Nowadays, this choice translates to choosing well-constructed garments from natural materials, ensuring longevity and maintaining a polished appearance.

Silent Luxury

Rooted in the Protestant work ethic prevalent among early American industrialists, the ideal of avoiding showing wealth and luxury is a hallmark of the Old Money families.

This principle eschews flashy displays of wealth in favour of subtle refinement and it manifests via high-quality materials and perfect tailoring rather than ostentatious branding or embellishments.

Subtle Details

As the saying goes, the devil is in the details, and this is particularly true for Old Money Formal Wear.

This principle emerged from the sartorial traditions of the British aristocracy, where small elements like the lapel cut or the shine of a shoe could speak volumes about one’s background.

Today, it involves paying close attention to elements such as button quality, stitching, and accessory coordination.

Correct Fit

A proper fit is paramount in Old Money Formal Wear. This principle harks back to the days when clothing was predominantly made-to-measure.

A well-fitted garment enhances one’s appearance and signifies attention to personal presentation.

In modern times, this approach involves having off-the-rack purchases tailored for a bespoke look.

Main Formal Wear Clothes, Footwear, and Accessories

The Old Money Formal Wear wardrobe is built upon a foundation of meticulously crafted garments, exquisite footwear, and carefully chosen accessories:

Formal Wear Clothes

Single-breasted Tuxedo: From fine wool barathea or mohair blend, with peaked satin lapels, a single button closure, and jet pockets. The trousers have a satin side stripe and no cuffs.

Double-breasted Dinner Jacket: In midnight blue or black, with six buttons arranged in a 2×2 configuration. Shawl collar lapels in contrasting satin add sophistication.

White Dress Shirt: Made from crisp cotton piqué or fine poplin, with a wing collar for white tie events or a turned-down collar for black tie. French cuffs are a must.

Formal Trousers: High-waisted and tapered, with a single satin stripe down the outer seam. Pleated front for added comfort and elegance.

Formal Wear Shoes

Patent Leather Oxfords: Perfectly polished, with a sleek silhouette and minimal stitching. The toe should be slightly elongated for a refined appearance.

Velvet Slippers: Reserved for at-home formal events or very exclusive gatherings. Ideally adorned with subtle monograms or family crests embroidered in silk thread.

Formal Wear Accessories

Silk Bow Ties: Hand-tied, in black silk satin for black tie events, or white piqué for white tie affairs. The width should complement the lapel width.

Cummerbund or Waistcoats: A pleated silk cummerbund or a low-cut waistcoat in matching fabric to the jacket. The waistcoat should never be fully visible when the jacket is buttoned.

Shirt Studs and Cufflinks: Mother-of-pearl or onyx studs for the shirt front, with matching cufflinks. Gold or platinum settings add a touch of understated luxury.

Pocket Squares: White linen, crisply folded into a straight edge or subtle points. Do not match perfectly with the bow tie.

Watches: A slim dress watch with a leather strap or a vintage pocket watch for white tie events. The case should be thin enough to slip easily under the cuff.

Each element in the Old Money Formal Wear ensemble is chosen for its ability to convey refinement without ostentation.

The tuxedo and dinner jacket form the canvas upon which the wearer expresses his taste through subtle variations in cut, fabric, and styling details.

Accessories, while essential, are carefully curated to enhance rather than dominate the overall appearance.

The true hallmark of the Old Money style lies in the interplay between these elements – how the sheen of the lapel complements the lustre of the dress shoes or how the crisp white of the shirt provides a perfect backdrop for antique cufflinks.

This attention to the harmony of the entire ensemble elevates Old Money Formal Wear from mere clothing to an art form.

Formal Wear Dress Codes and Etiquette

Interpreting and Adhering to Formal Dress Codes

White Tie Dress Code

White tie, the most formal dress code of all, demands obsessive attention to detail.

The tailcoat should be perfectly fitted, ending at the waist in front and featuring two long tails behind.

The waistcoat must be low-cut to showcase the extensive white piqué shirt front.

Trousers feature two satin stripes down the outer seams.

Patent leather pumps with silk bows are the traditional footwear.

Black Tie Dress Code

The standard for most formal evening events.

The tuxedo jacket must always be black or midnight blue and can have a peak lapel or shawl collar.

The trousers should match the jacket and feature a single satin stripe.

A pleated or piqué front shirt with French cuffs is essential.

A cummerbund or waistcoat is optional but adds sophistication.

Black Tie Optional Dress Code

This code allows for some flexibility. While a tuxedo is preferred, a dark suit (charcoal or navy) is acceptable.

If opting for a suit, pair it with a white dress shirt and a conservative tie. Oxfords or well-polished dress shoes are appropriate.

Creative Black Tie Dress Code

This code permits tasteful deviations from traditional black tie.

Consider a velvet dinner jacket in deep burgundy or forest green, or experiment with textured fabrics like jacquard for the tuxedo.

However, maintain formality with classic black trousers and appropriate accessories.

Semi-Formal Dress Code

For semi-formal events, a well-tailored dark suit is essential.

Opt for worsted wool in charcoal, navy, or black. Pair with a crisp dress shirt in white or pale blue.

A silk tie in a subtle pattern or solid colour completes the look. Oxford shoes in black or dark brown are ideal.

Tips for Bending the Formal Wear Rules

Subtle Pattern Play: In black tie, consider a jacket with a subtle jacquard pattern, visible only upon close inspection. This adds interest without breaking tradition.

Clever Color Choices: At a creative black tie event, you can safely introduce new colours through accessories. A deep burgundy bow tie or midnight blue cummerbund can add personality while maintaining elegance.

Texture Variation: Experiment with texture in semi-formal attire. A flannel suit or a shirt with a subtle herringbone pattern adds depth to your ensemble.

Vintage Accessories: To add character to your formal wear, incorporate family heirlooms or vintage pieces, such as art deco cufflinks or a 1920s-style watch chain.

Modern Interpretations: For less strict events, consider updated silhouettes. A slim-fit tuxedo or a slightly shorter jacket length can modernize your look while respecting the dress code.

Important Note! Any stylistic deviation should enhance, not detract from, the overall elegance of your attire. When in doubt, especially for significant events, it’s always better to err on the side of tradition or email The VOU’s stylist experts; we’re always here for you.

Luxury vs Seasonal Fabric Selection

The fabric choice affects the garment’s appearance, performance, and comfort.

In Old Money formal wear, the fabric’s tactile quality is as important as its visual appeal.

Formal Wear Secrets – Details to Elevate Your Look

In Old Money formal wear, the devil truly is in the details.

These subtle elements, imperceptible to the untrained eye, distinguish truly exceptional garments from the merely adequate.

They speak volumes about the wearer’s taste, knowledge, and appreciation for fine craftsmanship.

Hand-stitched Buttonholes
The slight irregularity of hand-stitching creates a three-dimensional effect, adds depth and character to the garment and is the hallmark of bespoke tailoring.

This detail subtly communicates that the wearer values traditional craftsmanship over mass production.

Surgeon’s Cuffs
Designed to allow doctors to roll up their sleeves, these functional buttons on jacket cuffs now serve as a discreet indicator of a custom-made suit.

The surgeon’s cuffs suggest that the wearer appreciates both the history and practicality of his clothing.

Canvassed Construction
This internal structure, hand-stitched between the outer fabric and lining, allows the jacket to mold to the wearer’s body over time.

It creates a superior drape and longevity immediately apparent to those in the know, silently conveying an investment in quality.

Mother-of-Pearl Buttons
These natural buttons have a depth and iridescence that plastic can’t match.

Their use of dress shirts and jacket cuffs adds a subtle lustre, elevating the entire ensemble without drawing undue attention.

Grosgrain Facings
While satin lapels are common, grosgrain (ribbed silk) is preferred in Old Money circles for its more subdued appearance.

This choice reflects a preference for understatement and a deep understanding of formal wear traditions.

Pick-stitching
This decorative element, consisting of tiny visible stitches along the edges of lapels or pockets, is a clear sign of hand-tailoring.

It adds a subtle texture and demonstrates an attention to detail that machine-made garments lack.

Collar Roll
A well-constructed dress shirt will have a collar that curves gracefully, creating a perfect space for a tie knot.

This natural roll is achieved through skilled pattern cutting and construction, marking the difference between an ordinary and an exceptional shirt.

Combined, these details create an overall impression of refinement and quality greater than the sum of its parts.

They allow the wearer to stand out in a subtle, sophisticated manner entirely in keeping with Old Money values.

The true power of these details lies not just in their beauty but in how they work together to create a cohesive, elegant whole.

Old Money formal wear is not about drawing attention with flash or ostentation.

Instead, these subtle details reward close inspection, allowing those with a discerning eye to appreciate the thought, craftsmanship, and tradition embodied in each garment.

They are the secret language of sartorial excellence, speaking volumes without saying a word.

Formal Wear Outfit Ideas by Seasons

Formal Wear for Spring

For spring formal events, opt for a lightweight worsted wool suit in a soft grey tone.

The jacket should feature a single-breasted, two-button closure with notch lapels.

Pair this with a crisp white cotton poplin shirt featuring a spread collar and double cuffs.

Colour Palette: Soft grey suit, white shirt, pale blue accessories

Pattern: Subtle Prince of Wales check for the suit

Accessories: Pale blue silk tie with a small-scale geometric pattern, white linen pocket square with hand-rolled edges, silver knot cufflinks, and a slim platinum watch with a black leather strap

Formal Wear for Summer

Summer calls for a cream-coloured Super 150s wool dinner jacket with a shawl collar. Pair this with midnight blue wool trousers featuring a satin side stripe.

The shirt should be a fine cotton voile with a marcella bib front and turndown collar.

Colour Palette: Cream jacket, midnight blue trousers, white shirt

Pattern: Textured basketweave for the jacket

Accessories: Black silk bow tie, black patent leather oxfords, mother-of-pearl shirt studs and cufflinks, white silk pocket square with a puffed fold

Formal Wear for Autumn

For autumn, choose a rich burgundy velvet dinner jacket with peaked satin lapels. Pair with classic black wool trousers.

The shirt should be a white herringbone-weave cotton with a pleated front and French cuffs.

Colour Palette: Burgundy jacket, black trousers, white shirt

Pattern: Subtle sheen of velvet for the jacket

Accessories: Black silk bow tie, black onyx shirt studs and cufflinks, black patent leather opera pumps, black silk cummerbund, white linen pocket square with point fold

Formal Wear for Winter

Winter formal wear calls for a midnight blue wool and mohair blend tuxedo.

The jacket should be double-breasted with six buttons in a 2×2 configuration and satin-faced peaked lapels.

Pair with matching trousers featuring a satin side stripe.

Colour Palette: Midnight blue suit, white shirt, black accessories

Pattern: Barathea weave for a subtle texture

Accessories: Black silk bow tie, white piqué marcella waistcoat, patent leather oxfords, vintage gold watch chain, white silk pocket square with TV fold

Old Money Formal Wear Tailoring

Bespoke tailoring is paramount in Old Money formal wear.

It ensures that each garment fits perfectly and moves harmoniously with the wearer. A well-tailored formal outfit should appear like a second skin.

Formal Wear Styling Tips for Different Body Types

The key to Old Money formal wear is always impeccable fit, achieved through expert tailoring.

A skilled tailor can adjust any garment to flatter your unique body shape while adhering to classic style principles.

Triangle (Pear) Body Shape

Men with a triangle body shape have a narrower chest and shoulders and weight distributed around the waist and hips.

• Wear jackets with structured, slightly padded shoulders to balance the upper body.
• Choose single-breasted jackets with notch lapels to create a V-shape effect.
• Dark colours for trousers and lighter shades for jackets can help balance proportions.
• Avoid low-rise trousers; opt for mid to high-rise to elongate the legs.
• Consider pleated trousers for comfort around the hips, but ensure they’re not too full.

Rectangle Body Shape

Rectangle body shapes have similar shoulders, waist, and hips measurements, creating a straight up and down appearance.

• Use layering to create the illusion of shape; waistcoats are particularly effective.
• Opt for jackets with some waist suppression to create the appearance of a more defined waist.
• Double-breasted jackets can add volume to the chest area.
• Choose trousers with a slight taper to add shape to the lower body.
• Patterns and textures can add visual interest and break up the straight lines of your silhouette.

Oval Body Shape

Oval body shapes carry weight primarily in the middle section, with narrower shoulders and slimmer legs.

• Choose single-breasted jackets with a lower button stance to elongate the torso.
• Opt for darker colours and vertical stripes to create a slimming effect.
• Ensure jackets have enough room in the midsection to prevent pulling.
• Avoid tight-fitting trousers; opt for a straight leg or slight taper for balance.
• Consider braces instead of a belt to avoid drawing attention to the midsection.

Inverted Triangle (Trapezoid) Body Shape

Inverted triangle shapes have broad shoulders and chest, with a narrower waist and hips.

• Choose jackets with softer, natural shoulders to avoid overemphasizing upper body width.
• Opt for single-breasted jackets to minimize chest width.
• Consider wider lapels to balance the chest proportions.
• Choose trousers with a slight flare or wider leg to balance the upper body.
• Patterned or lighter-coloured trousers can add visual weight to the lower body.

Old Money Formal Wear Do’s and Don’ts

Do

• Wear bespoke or made-to-measure garments: Old Money formal wear is all about fit and quality. Bespoke tailoring ensures your garments fit perfectly and flatter your body type. It’s an investment in your appearance and comfort.
• Wear classic, timeless styles: Old Money style is about longevity and tradition. Opt for classic cuts and styles that have stood the test of time. This ensures your formal wear remains relevant and stylish for years to come.
• Pay attention to fabric quality: High-quality fabrics look better and wear better over time. They’re a hallmark of Old Money style, showing an appreciation for craftsmanship and durability.
• Keep accessories subtle and refined: Old Money style is about understated elegance. Choose classic accessories like a fine watch, simple cufflinks, or a family heirloom tie pin.

Don’t

• Don’t wear ill-fitting or off-the-rack suits without alterations: Poorly fitting garments can ruin even the most expensive ensemble. They suggest a lack of care and attention to detail, which goes against Old Money principles.
• Don’t follow fleeting fashion trends: Chasing trends can make you appear nouveau riche rather than Old Money. It also leads to a wardrobe that quickly becomes dated.
• Don’t buy synthetic materials: These fabrics often lack the richness and depth of natural fibres. They can also appear shiny or cheap, which detracts from the Old Money aesthetic.
• Don’t overaccessorize: Too many accessories or overly ostentatious pieces can appear gauche. They detract from the overall elegance of your ensemble.

Conclusion

Old Money Formal Wear is more than just a dress code; it’s a philosophy that embodies timeless elegance, quality, and understated sophistication.

As we’ve explored throughout this guide, mastering this art requires attention to detail, appreciation for craftsmanship, and a deep understanding of sartorial traditions.

Remember:

• Bespoke or made-to-measure garments are key to creating an impeccable fit
• Wear classic, timeless garments over trendy (fleeting) ones
• Fabric quality and construction are critical
• Understand and respect formal dress codes while adding subtle personal touches
• Consider your body type when selecting and tailoring formal wear
• Keep accessories refined and minimal
• Maintain impeccable grooming to complement your attire

Remember, the essence of the Old Money style lies not in blindly following rules but in understanding them so well that one day, you have the confidence to add your sprezzatura touch.

And, as you step out in your tailored tuxedo or expertly crafted dinner jacket, remember you’re not just wearing a garment but embodying a legacy of style, sophistication, and timeless elegance.