Classic Menswear Brands and Wardrobe Essentials for an Old Money Look

1. Shirts and Trousers

Plain shirts in poplin, twill and Oxford cloth form the base of the look, with white and pale blue the most useful colours.

Fit matters more than the maker: the shoulder seam should sit at your shoulder and the cuff should reach the base of your thumb with your arm relaxed.

Brooks Brothers and Charles Tyrwhitt are two widely available makers of classic dress and Oxford shirts.

For trousers, choose chinos in khaki, stone or navy with a straight or gently tapered leg, and avoid very stretchy fabrics if you want a crisp drape.

Grey wool flannel trousers are the cold-weather alternative and pair well with suede loafers or leather brogues.

Wear: a pale blue Oxford shirt, stone chinos, a navy crew-neck jumper and brown suede loafers.

2. Knitwear

Knitwear in natural fibres such as merino, lambswool and cashmere gives warmth without bulk.

A few plain crew-necks in cream, navy and charcoal cover most needs, and a V-neck sits neatly over a collared shirt.

John Smedley is a long-established British knitwear maker, which says it has made knitwear in England since 1784.

For more texture, try Shetland or lambswool, a subtle Fair Isle for weekends, or an off-white Aran jumper with plain trousers.

Wear: an off-white Aran jumper, a blue Oxford shirt underneath, grey flannel trousers and brown leather boots.

3. Outerwear and Tailoring

A well-fitting navy blazer is one of the most useful jackets you can own, because it works with chinos, flannels and jeans.

Unstructured blazers in wool, linen or a wool-linen blend, such as navy hopsack, feel comfortable and look smart; Hackett London is one British brand known for this kind of tailoring.

A tweed jacket in brown or olive suits cooler months and the country side of the look.

A trench coat in stone or navy covers wet spring and autumn days; Aquascutum and Burberry are long-established names, and many other brands make similar coats for less.

A single-breasted overcoat in charcoal or camel wool goes over suits and casual clothes alike.

For suits, two-button single-breasted designs in navy or mid-grey are the most versatile.

Wear: a navy hopsack blazer, a white shirt with an open collar, grey flannel trousers and dark brown penny loafers.

1. British Heritage Brands

Turnbull & Asser is a Jermyn Street shirtmaker known for ready-to-wear and bespoke shirts.

Barbour, founded in 1894 in South Shields, is known for waxed cotton jackets such as the Bedale and the Beaufort; see our comparison of the most classic Barbour jacket.

Crockett & Jones makes Goodyear-welted shoes in Northampton, which a cobbler can resole.

Gieves & Hawkes, at No. 1 Savile Row, offers bespoke and ready-to-wear tailoring.

2. American Ivy League Brands

The American version of the look leans on preppy sportswear and campus staples.

Brooks Brothers is closely associated with the button-down collar shirt.

Ralph Lauren covers the look from Polo Ralph Lauren knitwear and shirts up to Purple Label, its highest-priced line; see our guide to whether Purple Label is worth the price.

L.L.Bean is known for practical outdoor clothing, including its rubber-and-leather Bean boots, flannel shirts and canvas totes.

3. European Brands

Italian brands are often known for softer tailoring that looks smart but feels comfortable.

Zegna is known for suiting cloth and tailoring, and its knitwear and accessories are a smaller first purchase.

Drumohr makes wool and cashmere knitwear, and Smythson makes stationery and leather goods such as wallets.

1. Key Fit Points

The shoulder seam of a jacket or shirt should end at the edge of your shoulder.

Shirt cuffs should show about half an inch (1 cm) below a jacket sleeve.

Trousers with a slight break or no break, where the hem just touches the shoe, look neater than fabric bunching at the ankle.

Whether you prefer a slim, straight or fuller trouser leg is a style choice, as long as the waist and seat fit you comfortably.

2. Working With a Tailor

Look for a tailor experienced with tailored jackets, not only quick hem and waist alterations.

Sleeve length, trouser length and waist adjustments are routine; changing the shoulders is difficult and expensive, so buy jackets that fit there already.

When buying a suit in a department store, ask whether alterations are included or discounted.

Check the sleeve length of any jacket before you wear it for the first time.

1. Core Colours

Navy is the most useful colour across suits, blazers and knitwear.

Mid-grey and charcoal are the softer alternatives to black for suits and trousers.

Cream, ecru and off-white work for shirts, knitwear and summer chinos.

Olive, camel and muted burgundy add depth without drawing attention.

Patterns stay subtle, such as a faint windowpane on grey flannel or a muted Prince of Wales check on a jacket.

2. Natural Fabrics

Natural fibres breathe and age well, which is why the look favours them over most synthetics.

For suits, a mid-range wool such as Super 100s to 130s is a practical balance of softness and durability; very high Super numbers feel finer but wear faster.

Tweed suits the country, sturdy cotton twill suits chinos, crisp poplin suits shirts, and linen suits summer.

For belts and shoes, full-grain leather develops a patina and lasts longer than corrected-grain or bonded leather.

When buying less expensive shirts, check the label for a high cotton content.

1. Leather Dress Shoes

A black or dark brown cap-toe Oxford is the most formal everyday shoe and works with suits.

A Derby, with its open lacing, is slightly more relaxed and suits flannels and tweed.

Church’s and Crockett & Jones are examples of makers of Goodyear-welted shoes that can be resoled.

Polish your shoes regularly and keep cedar shoe trees in them to absorb moisture and hold their shape.

2. Smart Casual Footwear

Penny loafers in brown or burgundy leather, or suede tassel loafers, suit warm weather and smart-casual occasions, with fine socks or no visible socks.

A leather brogue or a suede desert boot works with flannel or tweed.

If you wear trainers, choose plain, clean leather designs in white or a neutral colour without large logos; Common Projects and Duke + Dexter are two brands that make them.

1. Watches and Jewellery

A plain watch with a clean dial and a moderate case size suits the look; Longines and IWC are two Swiss makers with understated models.

Leather straps suit everyday tailoring better than heavy metal bracelets.

Keep jewellery minimal, such as a wedding band or a simple ring you already wear.

2. Ties, Pocket Squares and Belts

Choose ties in silk, wool or grenadine in repp stripes, small paisleys or solid navy and burgundy; Drake’s is one maker of classic ties.

A pocket square should pick up a colour from the jacket or shirt rather than match the tie exactly.

Match your belt to your shoes in colour and finish, such as brown leather with brown loafers.

A braided leather belt, such as those made by Anderson’s, adds texture to casual outfits.

1. Storage

Hang suits, blazers and coats on wide, shaped wooden hangers to support the shoulders.

Fold knitwear in drawers or on shelves, because hanging stretches it at the shoulders.

Use cedar blocks or cedar hangers to help deter moths.

Keep shoe trees in leather shoes when you are not wearing them.

2. Cleaning

Dry clean only when a garment is really dirty, because frequent cleaning wears natural fibres.

Refresh wool and cashmere with a garment steamer or by hanging them in a steamy bathroom.

Blot spills such as coffee or wine straight away with a clean cloth and a little cold water.

Keep a small sewing kit to reattach loose buttons before they fall off.

1. Where to Spend More

Spend most on outerwear, jackets and leather shoes, because they shape the overall impression and get the most wear.

One well-fitting wool blazer is better value than several cheaper synthetic jackets that fit badly.

For shoes, Goodyear-welted construction lets a cobbler resole them, so look for those words in the product description wherever you shop; in the UK, Loake offers one of the more affordable Goodyear-welted ranges.

2. Where to Save

Plain T-shirts, socks and underwear do not need designer labels; look for dense cotton, neat even stitching and a collar that keeps its shape after washing, whether you shop at M&S in the UK or a mid-priced chain in the US.

Plain Oxford shirts from mid-priced brands, bought on promotion, are good value if they fit well.

Dark, straight-cut jeans can also come from affordable brands.

Always include the cost of alterations when you budget for a jacket or suit.

Choose a few makers you trust for the garments that matter most, and you will build a classic wardrobe that lasts.