Knowing how to identify, choose, and style a double-breasted blazer by occasion and season is paramount for men aspiring to project an image of success and wealth.
This timeless garment has the power to elevate your appearance and set you apart from the crowd.
In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the intricacies of the double-breasted blazer, its origins, key differences from similar garments, and the critical role it plays in a well-curated capsule wardrobe.
By the end of this article, you will be equipped with the knowledge and confidence to select and wear a double-breasted blazer that exudes sophistication and refinement.
What is a Double-Breasted Blazer?
A double-breasted blazer is a classic menswear jacket characterised by overlapping front panels and two columns of buttons.
Unlike double-breasted blazers with a single row of buttons and a narrow overlap, the double-breasted blazer creates a more striking and masculine silhouette.
This style originated in the military and nautical realms, with roots tracing back to the peacoat.
It is a timeless choice for men seeking to project an air of authority and sophistication.
Double-Breasted Blazer vs. Single-Breasted Blazer vs. Suit Jacket
While double-breasted and single-breasted blazers are tailored jackets, they differ in button configuration and overall aesthetic.
Single-breasted blazers are more common and offer a streamlined, minimalist look, while double-breasted blazers make a bolder statement with wider lapels and additional buttons.
Conversely, suit jackets are designed to be worn as part of a matching suit ensemble and often feature a more formal cut and fabric.
Double-Breasted Blazer Styling by Occasion
Double-Breasted Blazer for a Formal Event
When attending a formal event, such as a wedding or a gala, a double-breasted suit in a classic colour like navy or charcoal is an excellent choice.
Opt for a jacket with peak lapels, which add a touch of elegance and sophistication.
The lapels should be wide, which will help create a more masculine and powerful silhouette.
The jacket should be tailored to fit closely to the body, with a suppressed waist and a slightly flared skirt.
The trousers should be pleated and have a high waist, elongating the legs and creating a more streamlined look.
Regarding accessories, a white dress shirt with French cuffs and a spread collar is a classic choice.
A silk tie in a subtle pattern or a solid colour complements the suit and is essential.
Choose a tie with a Windsor knot to fill the space between the collar points and create a more polished appearance.
Complete the look with a pair of black Oxford shoes in high-shine leather, and add a white pocket square in a presidential fold for a final touch of refinement.
Double-Breasted Blazer for a Business Casual Look
A double-breasted blazer in a more relaxed fabric like wool or cashmere is ideal for business casual settings, such as client meetings or networking events.
Choose a jacket with a softer shoulder and a more natural drape, as this will create a more approachable and less intimidating look.
The lapels should be slightly narrower than those on a formal suit, and the buttons should be made of a contrasting material, such as a horn or mother-of-pearl.
Pair the blazer with a pair of well-tailored trousers in a complementary colour, such as khaki or grey.
Avoid matching the trousers too closely to the blazer, as this can look too formal. Instead, opt for a shade a few tones lighter or darker than the blazer.
A soft blue or pink dress shirt can add a touch of colour and personality to the look, while a knitted tie in a darker shade will keep the overall appearance professional.
Complete the outfit with a pair of brown leather loafers or monk straps and a pocket square in a colour that matches the shirt or tie.
Double-Breasted Blazer for a Smart Casual Look
A double-breasted blazer can also be dressed down for a smart casual occasion, such as a date or a weekend brunch.
Look for a blazer in a more relaxed fabric like cotton or linen, and choose a style with patch pockets and a softer construction.
The shoulders should be natural, and the body should be more relaxed.
Opt for a jacket with a shorter length, as this will create a more casual appearance.
Pair the blazer with chinos or jeans in a contrasting colour, such as navy or olive green.
A polo shirt or a long-sleeved rugby shirt can be worn underneath the blazer for a more laid-back look.
Alternatively, a simple white or grey t-shirt can be paired with the blazer for a more minimalist aesthetic.
Complete the outfit with a pair of white sneakers or brown suede desert boots, and add a casually folded pocket square in a contrasting colour or pattern.
Double-Breasted Blazer for Evening
For a sophisticated evening look, a double-breasted blazer in a rich, dark colour like midnight blue or black is an excellent choice.
Look for a jacket with a shawl collar or peak lapels in a luxurious fabric like velvet or silk.
The buttons should be covered in the same fabric as the lapel, creating a seamless and elegant appearance.
The jacket should have a close fit, a slightly longer length than a casual blazer.
Wear the blazer buttoned up over a black turtleneck or a fine-gauge roll-neck sweater in a dark colour like charcoal or navy.
The combination of the structured blazer and the soft, tactile knitwear creates a dynamic interplay of sophisticated and sensual textures.
Pair the blazer with well-tailored trousers in a complementary dark colour, such as black or midnight blue.
Complete the look with black patent leather oxford shoes or velvet slippers, and add a dark-coloured pocket square in a subtle pattern or texture.
Double-Breasted Blazer Styling by Season
Double-Breasted Blazer for Spring
As the weather transitions from cool to warm, opt for a double-breasted blazer in lighter cotton or a wool-linen blend.
Pastel colours like soft blue, pale pink, or light grey are perfect for the season.
Pair your blazer with crisp white or cream trousers and brown suede loafers for a sophisticated look.
For a casual approach, layer your blazer over a lightweight turtleneck or a button-down shirt in a complementary pastel shade.
Double-Breasted Blazer for Summer
Embrace the double-breasted blazer’s nautical roots by pairing it with white trousers for a clean, seafaring-inspired look.
Opt for a grainy linen-silk blend fabric in royal blue or red, and complete the outfit with a white collared shirt, a navy knit tie, and suede loafers.
For a more relaxed summer ensemble, combine your blazer with tailored shorts, a tucked-in polo shirt, and double monk strap shoes or loafers.
Double-Breasted Blazer for Autumn
As the leaves change colour, reach for a double-breasted blazer in rich, autumnal shades like burgundy, forest green, or deep navy.
Choose fabrics with a bit more weight, such as wool or tweed, to provide warmth and texture.
Layer your blazer over a thin Merino wool sweater or a chambray shirt for a smart casual look.
Complete the outfit with corduroy trousers and brown leather Brogues or Chelsea boots.
Double-Breasted Blazer Winter
Layer your double-breasted blazer over a thicker wool roll neck for a ’70s academic-inspired look, or choose lightweight knitwear for a more contemporary, gentleman-spy vibe.
Darker, heavier fabrics like wool and cashmere will provide warmth and texture during the colder months.
For a formal winter ensemble, pair your blazer with wool trousers, a white dress shirt, and a silk tie.
Finish the look with black Oxford shoes and a wool overcoat.
Correct Double-Breasted Blazer Fit and Sizing
A well-fitting double-breasted blazer is crucial to achieving a polished and sophisticated look.
The blazer should sit comfortably on the shoulders without pulling or stretching, and the lapels should lie flat against the chest.
The jacket should be fitted at the waist, creating a streamlined silhouette without being too tight.
The length of the blazer should fall just below the back pockets of your trousers, and the sleeves should end at the base of your thumb, allowing about half an inch of the shirt cuff to show.
The blazer should not pull across the chest or create an “X” shape when buttoned.
The wrap, or the overlap of the front panels, should be substantial enough to prevent the jacket from splaying open when moving around.
A good rule of thumb is that the inner button should sit comfortably at the natural waist, while the outer button should be slightly lower, creating a gentle curve.
DB Blazer Sizing by Body Type
When selecting a double-breasted blazer, consider your body type to ensure the best fit.
For men with a larger build or broader shoulders, a blazer with a more generous cut and slightly longer length can help to balance proportions.
Look for jackets with wider peak lapels and a lower buttoning point to elongate the torso and create a more streamlined appearance.
For slimmer gentlemen, a more fitted double-breasted blazer with a shorter length and higher buttoning point can help to create the illusion of a broader chest and shoulders.
Opt for narrower lapels and a slightly suppressed waist to maintain a sleek silhouette without overwhelming your frame.
If you have a shorter stature, be cautious when wearing double-breasted blazers, as they can sometimes make you appear shorter.
To counteract this effect, choose a blazer with a shorter length and a higher buttoning point to elongate your legs and torso.
Avoid excessively wide lapels or an overly long jacket, as these can dwarf your frame.
Double-Breasted Blazer Styling Mistakes to Avoid
While double-breasted blazers can elevate your style game, there are some common mistakes to avoid when incorporating them into your wardrobe.
One of the most frequent missteps is wearing a too-large or ill-fitting blazer; an oversized or baggy blazer will make you appear sloppy and unprofessional, detracting from the garment’s inherent sophistication.
Always ensure that your blazer fits well in the shoulders, chest, and waist and that the length is appropriate for your height.
Another common mistake is buttoning the blazer incorrectly – for double-breasted blazers, the rule is to keep the inner button fastened, while the outer button can be left unbuttoned for a more relaxed look.
Buttoning both buttons can create a stiff and overly formal appearance, while leaving both buttons undone can cause the blazer to hang awkwardly and lose shape.
Accessorising is another area where mistakes can occur; over-accessorising can detract from the blazer’s elegance, while under-accessorising can leave your outfit looking incomplete.
Strike a balance by choosing one or two key accessories, such as a pocket square or a tie that complement the blazer without overwhelming it.
When in doubt, remember that less is often more when accessorising a double-breasted blazer.
Choosing the Right Double-Breasted Blazer
When selecting a double-breasted blazer, there are several key factors to consider.
First, opt for a jacket slightly shorter than a traditional single-breasted blazer, which will help maintain proper proportions.
Look for wide peak lapels, further accentuating your upper body and creating a more masculine silhouette.
In terms of fabric, choose a material that suits the occasion and season – lighter fabrics like linen or cotton for summer and heavier wool for cooler months.
Pay attention to the fit, proportions, and overall balance of your outfit to create a cohesive and polished look.
Ensure that your trousers are well-tailored and have a clean break at the ankle. This will help elongate your legs and create a streamlined silhouette.
If you’re wearing a shirt and tie, ensure the collar fits properly, and the tie is tied in a neat, symmetrical knot.
When combining patterns and textures, be mindful of scale and contrast.
If your blazer features a bold pattern, such as a windowpane check or a houndstooth, keep the rest of your outfit relatively simple to avoid clashing.
Similarly, if you’re wearing a textured blazer, like a tweed or a herringbone, pair it with smooth, complementary fabrics to create a harmonious look.
Finally, consider the occasion and dress code when styling your double-breasted blazer.
While a more relaxed, unbuttoned look may be appropriate for a casual event, a buttoned-up, formal approach is essential for dressier occasions.
By being mindful of these guidelines and avoiding common mistakes, you can confidently incorporate double-breasted blazers into your wardrobe and create a polished, sophisticated look that showcases your style.
Final Thoughts
The double-breasted blazer is a true menswear icon with a rich history and enduring appeal.
Its ability to adapt to various occasions and personal styles makes it a versatile and timeless wardrobe essential.
While this garment may initially seem intimidating, with the right knowledge and guidance, anyone can successfully integrate it into their style.
Experiment with different fabrics, colours, and styling combinations to find what works best for your body type, lifestyle, and aesthetic preferences.
Don’t be afraid to step out of your comfort zone and try new looks – you may be surprised at how confident and polished you feel in a well-fitted double-breasted blazer.
Whether you’re dressing for a formal event, a business meeting, or a casual outing, a double-breasted blazer can elevate your look and project an air of refinement and sophistication.
By investing in a high-quality double-breasted blazer and mastering the art of styling it, you’ll have a powerful tool in your sartorial arsenal that will serve you well for years.
As you continue to explore and refine your style, remember that the double-breasted blazer is a classic for a reason.