“Is Aquascutum still a good brand for a classic heritage look?” is a question echoing in the minds of successful men seeking to use the brand’s British style to achieve recognition and relevance.
From boardrooms to social events, Aquascutum has a high place in contemporary menswear and is crucial to men who value tradition, and style, and want a wardrobe that speaks of heritage and quality.
Drawing upon Aquascutum’s rich 170-year history and its current perception, in this article we’ll offer you an unparalleled analysis of the brand’s standing in today’s fashion landscape.
Time to explore Aquascutum’s origins and the brand’s iconic creations so you can safely introduce this storied brand into your business-casual wardrobe.
How Aquascutum Started and Early Years
Aquascutum was launched in 1851, a pivotal year that saw London hosting the Great Exhibition.
John Emary, a talented tailor, founded the brand with a revolutionary vision: to create waterproof wool and address a pressing need for functional yet stylish outerwear in Britain’s notoriously damp climate.
The brand’s name, Aquascutum, combines two Latin words: ‘aqua’ (water) and ‘scutum’ (shield). This nomenclature reflected Emary’s commitment to protecting wearers from the elements while maintaining sartorial elegance.
By 1853, Aquascutum had secured a patent for its waterproofing technique and the technological advancement caught the attention of the British military.
During the Crimean War (1853-1856), Aquascutum supplied waterproof coats to officers, marking the beginning of a long-standing relationship with the armed forces.
The brand’s reputation for quality and innovation attracted royal patronage and in 1897, Aquascutum received a royal warrant from the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII.
The royal seal of approval cemented Aquascutum’s status as a purveyor of luxury outerwear.
The brand’s blend’s early approach of blending functionality with elegance continues to influence Aquascutum’s designs, ensuring the brand’s relevance in contemporary fashion.
How Aquascutum’s Trench Coat Made The Brand Famous
Aquascutum’s trench coat – born from military necessity – stands as a testament to the brand’s enduring influence on British fashion.
The trench coat’s origins trace back to the Boer War (1899-1902), where Aquascutum supplied weatherproof coats to British officers.
These early iterations featured the hallmarks of today’s trench: a double-breasted front, epaulettes, and a belt.
The design underwent refinement during World War I, adapting to the harsh conditions of trench warfare.
Key features of Aquascutum’s trench coat include:
Gabardine fabric – A tightly woven, water-resistant material
Raglan sleeves – Allowing ease of movement
Storm flap – Providing additional protection against rain
D-rings – Originally used to attach military equipment
Post-war, the trench coat transitioned from military wear to civilian fashion. Aquascutum’s version gained popularity among business professionals and style icons alike.
The coat’s versatility allowed wearers to project an air of authority and elegance in varied settings.
Aquascutum’s commitment to innovation saw the trench coat evolve. The introduction of new fabrics and cuts ensured the garment remained relevant.
Notable variations include:
The Kingsway – A slimmer, more contemporary silhouette
The Filey – Featuring a detachable wool lining for all-season wear
Nowadays, Aquascutum’s trench coat continues to exemplify British tailoring excellence as a cornerstone in stylish gentlemen’s wardrobes.
10 Aquascutum Pieces for Stylish Men
Aquascutum’s legacy in menswear is exemplified by these ten signature creations, each embodying the brand’s commitment to quality and style for the modern professional.
1. The Bogart Trench Coat – Aquascutum’s most iconic creation.
This double-breasted coat, crafted from waterproof cotton gabardine, features raglan sleeves, a gun flap, and a belted waist.
The Bogart’s versatility allows it to complement both formal suits and casual wear, making it indispensable for the business traveller.
2. The Kingsway Suit – introduced in the 1960s.
Tailored from Super 120s wool, this single-breasted suit features a two-button closure, notched lapels, and a slim fit.
The Kingsway’s clean lines and subtle shaping results in a silhouette that commands respect in boardrooms and business meetings alike.
3. Aquascutum’s Club Check Scarf – designed in 1976 and still a symbol of understated luxury.
Woven from pure lambswool, this scarf showcases the brand’s signature check pattern in muted tones of camel, brick red, and black.
Its versatility allows for seamless integration with both formal and casual business attire.
4. The Frazer Raincoat – Aquascutum’s modern approach to weatherproof outerwear.
Constructed from a technical fabric blend of cotton and polyester, the Frazer offers superior water resistance without sacrificing breathability.
Its minimalist design, featuring a concealed button placket and stand collar, ensures a professional appearance in inclement weather.
5. The Tunstall Blazer – Aquascutum’s expertise in bespoke tailoring.
Made from a wool and mohair blend, this single-breasted blazer boasts a half-canvas construction, ensuring shape retention and a personalized fit over time.
The Tunstall’s versatility makes it an essential piece for business-casual environments.
6. Aquascutum’s Crouston Briefcase – functionality and refined aesthetics.
Crafted from full-grain leather, this briefcase features the brand’s signature check lining and multiple compartments designed to accommodate modern business essentials, including a padded laptop sleeve.
7. The Elgin Merino Wool Sweater
Knitted from extra-fine merino wool, this V-neck sweater provides warmth without bulk.
The Elgin’s slim fit and subtle embroidered logo at the chest makes it suitable for wearing under a blazer or on days.
8. The Beaufort Overcoat – Aquascutum’s answer to harsh winters.
This full-length coat, made from a cashmere and wool blend, features a removable shearling collar and quilted lining.
The Beaufort’s imposing silhouette and superior insulation make it a statement piece for the winter months.
9. Aquascutum’s Silk Jacquard Tie collection – for business outfits.
These ties, woven from pure silk, feature subtle patterns inspired by the brand’s archives.
The restrained colour palette and refined textures allow for versatile pairing with a range of shirt and suit combinations.
10. The Northcote Shirt
Crafted from 2-ply cotton poplin, this shirt features a spread collar, double cuffs, and mother-of-pearl buttons.
The Northcote’s superior construction and classic styling make it a foundation piece for the professional wardrobe.
Aquascutum vs Similar Luxury Brands
When evaluating Aquascutum against contemporary luxury brands, several key comparisons emerge.
Burberry, a direct competitor in British heritage luxury, offers a similar product range but with a higher price point and more prominent branding.
A Burberry trench coat typically costs 20-30% more than an equivalent Aquascutum model, yet provides comparable quality.
Hugo Boss, popular among younger professionals, presents a more modern aesthetic.
Boss suits, priced similarly to Aquascutum, offer slimmer cuts and a contemporary European style.
However, Aquascutum edges out in terms of fabric quality, particularly in outerwear.
Brooks Brothers, another heritage brand, competes closely with Aquascutum in the American market.
Brooks Brothers offers a wider range of casual wear, while Aquascutum maintains an edge in formal outerwear. Pricing remains comparable between the two brands.
Newer luxury brands like Tom Ford position themselves at a higher price point, offering more fashion-forward designs.
While these brands may appeal more to style-conscious executives, Aquascutum provides better value for those prioritising understated elegance and durability.
In the digital sphere, brands like Suit Supply have disrupted the market with a strong online presence and modern styling. While offering competitive pricing, these brands lack Aquascutum’s heritage appeal and proven longevity.
Aquascutum’s strength lies in treading the fine line between heritage and relevance. For the businessman who values tradition but requires practicality and quality, Aquascutum presents a compelling option among luxury brands.
What’s Aquascutum’s Image Now?
Aquascutum’s standing in the contemporary luxury fashion market reflects both challenges and resilience.
The brand’s ownership changes in recent years have significantly impacted market perception and performance.
In 2012, Aquascutum entered administration, leading to the brand’s acquisition by YGM Trading, a Hong Kong-based company.
This transition marked a period of uncertainty for the brand’s direction and identity and after YGM Trading’s ownership, Aquascutum underwent another change in 2017 when it was acquired by Jining Ruyi Investment Co., a subsidiary of Shandong Ruyi Technology Group.
This acquisition, valued at £97 million, signalled a commitment to revitalising the brand. Under new ownership, Aquascutum has pursued a strategy of global expansion, with a particular focus on the Asian market.
Market data from 2020 indicates Aquascutum’s global revenue reached approximately £150 million, a modest figure compared to larger luxury conglomerates but representative of a niche position in the market.
The brand maintains a stronger presence in Asia, particularly in China and Japan, where heritage British brands hold significant appeal.
In the UK, Aquascutum’s retail footprint has contracted, with the closure of several standalone stores. The brand now operates through a combination of department store concessions, online sales, and a limited number of flagship stores.
This reduced physical presence has been partially offset by an enhanced digital strategy, with e-commerce sales showing growth, particularly in the wake of global retail disruptions in 2020 and 2021.
Aquascutum’s product range continues to centre on outerwear and business attire, categories where the brand’s heritage provides a competitive advantage.
However, the company has expanded its offerings to include more casual wear and accessories, aiming to capture a broader customer base while maintaining its core identity.
Brand perception studies conducted in 2021 reveal Aquascutum retains strong recognition among consumers aged 40 and above, particularly those in professional sectors.
The brand scores highly on associations with quality and heritage but faces challenges in attracting younger consumers who may perceive it as traditional rather than innovative.
Aquascutum’s positioning in the luxury market sits below ultra-premium brands but above mid-range fashion labels.
This position allows the brand to appeal to professionals seeking quality and prestige without the highest luxury price tags. However, competition in this segment has intensified, with both established and emerging brands vying for market share.
The brand’s sustainability initiatives, while not as prominent as some competitors, have seen increased focus.
Aquascutum has introduced limited ranges using recycled materials and has committed to improving supply chain transparency, aspects increasingly important to conscious consumers.
In summary, Aquascutum’s current market position reflects a brand in transition, balancing its rich heritage with the need for contemporary relevance.
While facing challenges, the brand retains a loyal customer base and continues to hold appeal for professionals valuing understated luxury and British sartorial tradition.
Aquascutum’s Continued Quality and Craftsmanship
The assessment of Aquascutum’s contemporary offerings reveals a commitment to maintaining quality standards, albeit with some adaptations to modern production methods.
An examination of recent collections demonstrates the brand’s continued focus on superior materials and construction techniques.
Aquascutum’s signature trench coats, such as the Bogart and Filey models, exemplify the brand’s approach to quality.
These garments utilise a tightly woven cotton gabardine, with a thread count of approximately 300, ensuring durability and weather resistance.
The fabric undergoes a proprietary treatment process, enhancing water repellency while maintaining breathability.
Seams feature reinforced stitching, with an average of 12 stitches per inch, contributing to the garment’s longevity.
In tailoring, Aquascutum employs a combination of traditional and modern techniques.
The Kingsway suit, a staple of the brand’s business wear line, features a half-canvassed construction.
This method involves a floating chest piece made of horsehair canvas in the jacket’s front panels and lapels, providing structure while allowing for a natural drape.
The use of high-twist wool yarns, typically Super 120s or finer, ensures crease resistance and shape retention.
Aquascutum’s knitwear range, including the Elgin sweater, showcases the brand’s attention to material quality.
These pieces utilise extra-fine merino wool with a fibre diameter of 18.5 microns or less, resulting in softness and warmth without excessive weight.
The knitting process employs a gauge of 12 stitches per inch, striking a balance between durability and a refined appearance.
The brand’s leather goods, such as the Crouston briefcase, demonstrate a focus on material selection and finishing.
Full-grain leather, sourced primarily from European tanneries, undergoes a vegetable tanning process, enhancing durability and developing a patina over time.
Edge painting and hand-stitched details on stress points reflect attention to both aesthetics and functionality.
Aquascutum’s textile innovation continues, albeit at a more measured pace than in previous decades.
The recent introduction of the AquaTech fabric in outerwear pieces represents an evolution of the brand’s weatherproofing technology.
This material, a blend of natural and synthetic fibres, achieves a water column rating of 20,000mm while maintaining a soft hand feel.
Quality control measures at Aquascutum involve multi-stage inspections as garments undergo scrutiny at various production phases, with final checks conducted by skilled inspectors.
The acceptable quality level (AQL) for Aquascutum products typically falls within the 1.5 to 2.5 range, indicating a stringent standard for defects.
However, the brand’s shift towards increased outsourcing of production has introduced variability in craftsmanship.
While core pieces maintain high standards, some seasonal items display less consistent quality.
This discrepancy becomes apparent in details such as button attachment strength and the precision of pattern matching at seams.
Aquascutum’s made-to-measure service, available for select outerwear and suiting, showcases the brand’s highest level of craftsmanship.
These garments feature hand-padded lapels, pick-stitched details, and personalised fittings, echoing the bespoke traditions of Savile Row.
So, Is Aquascutum Still Worth The Money?
For the modern businessman weighing Aquascutum’s merits, several key factors warrant consideration.
The brand’s strengths lie in classic outerwear and formal business attire, areas where tradition and understated elegance hold significant value.
Aquascutum’s trench coats remain a standout offering with the Bogart model, priced at £850, competing well with similar offerings from Burberry or Hugo Boss.
The coat’s water-resistant gabardine and timeless design ensure longevity, both in style and function.
For professionals in London, New York, or Tokyo, this piece offers practical elegance for unpredictable weather.
In suiting, Aquascutum provides solid options for the conservative business environment.
The Kingsway suit, retailing at £595, offers good value compared to similar quality suits from competitors.
However, businessmen seeking more modern cuts may find the brand’s offerings somewhat traditional.
Aquascutum’s made-to-measure service, available in select locations, adds significant value for those seeking personalised fit and style.
Starting at £1,200 for a suit, this service competes well with mid-tier bespoke offerings, providing a balance of customisation and brand prestige.
Brand recognition varies by region and industry. In finance and law, particularly in the UK and parts of Asia, Aquascutum still carries weight as a mark of traditional British style.
Aquascutum’s core garments, particularly outerwear, maintain high standards of construction as a well-maintained Aquascutum coat or suit will last for many years, offering a good return on investment.
The brand’s limited retail presence may pose challenges. With fewer standalone stores, trying on pieces before purchase can be difficult.
However, Aquascutum’s online store offers free returns, mitigating this issue for those comfortable with online shopping.
For the businessman seeking to project an image of established success and traditional values, Aquascutum remains a solid choice.
However, those prioritising cutting-edge style or a more youthful image may find the brand less suitable.
In summary, Aquascutum continues to offer value in classic business wear, particularly for professionals in conservative industries or those who appreciate traditional British style.
The brand’s strength in outerwear and formal attire, combined with durability and understated elegance, make it a worthy consideration for the discerning businessman.
How Aquascutum Influenced Menswear
Aquascutum’s influence on menswear extends far beyond the iconic trench coat.
Throughout the 20th and 21st centuries, the brand has played a pivotal role in shaping the modern gentleman’s wardrobe through innovative designs and adaptations to changing societal norms.
In the 1950s, Aquascutum introduced the Wyncol fabric, a revolutionary blend of wool and nylon.
This material provided superior warmth and durability while maintaining a refined appearance, setting a new standard for luxury outerwear.
The Wyncol range expanded to include suits and blazers, offering businessmen comfort and style in equal measure.
The 1960s saw Aquascutum at the forefront of the Mod movement.
The brand’s sharp tailoring and clean lines resonated with young professionals seeking a sophisticated yet rebellious aesthetic.
Aquascutum’s slim-fit suits and narrow lapels became staples of the era, influencing wider menswear trends.
In the following decades, Aquascutum continued to innovate. The introduction of the Aqua 5 cloth in the 1980s marked another milestone.
This high-performance fabric, developed for outdoor pursuits, found application in business attire, blurring the lines between formal and casual wear.
Aquascutum’s collaboration with renowned designers further cemented brand prestige.
Michael Herz’s tenure as head of design from 2003 to 2007 brought a contemporary edge to classic silhouettes, attracting a new generation of style-conscious men.
The brand’s adaptation to digital-age needs manifested in the creation of “smart” clothing.
Aquascutum’s experimentation with tech-integrated garments, including jackets with built-in heating elements and phone-charging capabilities, demonstrated a commitment to merging tradition with modernity.
The introduction of the Club Check pattern in the 1970s provided a subtle alternative to the more recognised Burberry check, allowing discerning gentlemen to display brand loyalty without ostentation.
In recent years, Aquascutum has embraced sustainable practices, responding to growing environmental concerns.
The use of recycled materials and eco-friendly production methods in select lines showcases the brand’s adaptability to changing consumer values.
Through these innovations and adaptations, Aquascutum has maintained relevance in the ever-evolving menswear landscape.
The brand’s legacy of quality and sophistication continues to influence contemporary fashion, making Aquascutum a significant force in the ongoing evolution of men’s style.
Final Verdict
Aquascutum remains a good brand for specific segments of today’s business professionals. The brand’s strengths cater to individuals who prioritise the following:
Classic British style – Aquascutum excels in providing timeless pieces that project an image of established success.
Quality outerwear – The brand’s trench coats and overcoats stand out for durability and functionality.
Value in luxury – Aquascutum offers quality comparable to higher-priced competitors, providing good value for the investment-minded professional.
Understated elegance – For those who prefer subtle branding and classic designs, Aquascutum delivers consistently.
Heritage appeal – In industries and regions where traditional British brands carry weight, Aquascutum remains a respected choice.
In conclusion, Aquascutum continues to be a good brand for the discerning businessman who values quality, heritage, and understated luxury.
While not at the forefront of fashion trends, the brand offers reliable, well-crafted pieces that stand the test of time both in style and durability.
For professionals in traditional industries or those who appreciate classic British style, Aquascutum remains a relevant and worthy choice in the luxury menswear market.