How to Dress in Summer if You Are a Skinny Man, From Linen to Cuban Collars

Cotton-Linen Blends or Pure Linen

Cotton-linen blends give a little more structure than pure linen while staying breathable.

Pure linen is beautifully cool but creases readily, and a very soft linen shirt can hang loosely on a slim frame.

If you like linen’s relaxed, rumpled look, it is a perfectly good summer choice; if you want something that looks neater by evening, a cotton-linen blend is the usual compromise.

Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana both offer cotton-linen shirts.

Cuban Collar Shirts

Cuban collar shirts, with their flat, open collar, are a relaxed summer alternative to a classic collar.

Geometric prints and stripes are popular on them; choose a pattern you like rather than for a widening effect, because studies of stripes have found effects in both directions and none that settles a rule.

The open collar lies flat out towards the shoulders, and it frames the neck and upper chest, which you may like.

Check that the shirt’s shoulder seam sits near your shoulder point and the body does not billow, since boxy Cuban shirts can swamp a slim frame.

Drake’s and Anglo-Italian both make Cuban collar shirts.

High-Rise Pleated Trousers or Low-Rise Styles

High-rise pleated trousers are a classic summer option: the pleats add a little room and drape through the hips and thighs, which some men like, and the higher waistband sits comfortably with a tucked shirt.

Low-rise trousers sit lower on the hips and leave more shirt or torso above the waistband.

Some slim men find that makes their torso look longer and their legs shorter than they would like; others like the look.

Rise labels vary between makers, so check where the waistband actually sits, standing and seated, before you buy.

Anderson & Sheppard’s ready-to-wear range is one place to find high-rise pleated trousers.

Straight-Leg, Skinny or Relaxed Chinos

Select straight-leg chinos that create a clean line from hip to ankle without clinging or appearing oversized.

A very skinny chino follows the leg closely and a very relaxed cut stands well away from it; both are deliberate looks.

If you want a balanced, classic line, a straight or gently tapered leg is the middle choice.

Incotex is one maker of straight-leg chinos worth trying.

Choosing a Shorts Length

Shorts that end around the knee are a classic, smart summer length.

Shorter shorts show more leg and look more casual or sporty; some men like that, and others prefer more coverage.

Shorts that reach well below the knee read as long and loose.

Try two lengths with the shoes you will wear and choose the one you prefer.

Unstructured Cotton Blazers for Warm Days

Choose lightweight cotton blazers without padding to add sophistication without bulk in summer temperatures.

Traditional wool blazers can appear heavy and formal, while unstructured cotton creates an elegant yet relaxed silhouette.

Boglioli’s K-Jacket, an unstructured jacket made in cotton among other cloths, is one well-known example.

Horizontal and Vertical Stripes

Horizontal stripes in knitwear and T-shirts are a summer classic, and style guides often recommend them to slim men to add width.

Studies of stripes have found effects in both directions and none that settles a rule: one research paper is titled “horizontal stripes won’t make you look fatter”, and a 2021 study using photographs of a female model in striped dresses found horizontal stripes looked slightly thinner than plain cloth.

Vertical stripes are just as wearable.

If you like a long, slim line, they suit you; if not, choose horizontal stripes or plain colours.

Saint James makes classic Breton striped tops.

Rich Colours and Pale Colours

Deeper tones like navy, burgundy and forest green work in summer as well as winter, and some guides suggest them to slim men for more visual weight.

Other guides suggest lighter colours for the same purpose, so neither direction is a rule.

Whether a pale colour looks washed out depends mostly on your skin, hair and eye colouring rather than your build; The VOU’s seasonal colour guides cover that question.

Choose the depth of colour that suits your colouring and the look you want.

Ralph Lauren Purple Label’s summer collections include rich colours, if you want to see how they work in warmer months.

Watches and Belts in Proportion

Choose a watch case that sits within the width of your wrist without the lugs overhanging; on a slimmer wrist that usually means a small to mid-sized case, but try it on rather than going by a number.

A belt in good leather that suits your trousers is all you need.

A wider casual belt suits jeans and chinos, while a narrower one suits tailored trousers.

Cartier’s Santos is one classic watch to try, and Anderson’s is a well-known Italian maker of leather belts.

Medium-Profile or Minimal Footwear

Some slim men prefer summer shoes with a little substance, such as Common Projects Achilles trainers, over very thin plimsolls, because a slightly heavier shoe balances a light, narrow trouser; very minimal plimsolls are a fine choice if you like their look.

Loafers with a medium sole are a smart, versatile summer shoe.

Edward Green’s Piccadilly loafers and Alden’s unlined suede loafers are two well-regarded options.

Adapt Outfits for Different Summer Settings

Choose lightweight cotton-silk polo shirts for smart casual evening events.

For beach days, tailored swim shorts with a clean cut are a neat choice; oversized board shorts are a more casual, surf look.

Sunspel’s Riviera polo is one smart-casual option.

For swimwear, Frescobol Carioca makes tailored swim shorts, and Orlebar Brown’s Dane is a longer-length tailored swim short if you want more coverage.

Final Thoughts

Remember that fit comes first: summer shirts, trousers and shorts should skim the body without clinging or billowing.

Choose cloths that keep their shape in the heat, such as cotton-linen blends, good cotton and lightweight tailoring cloth.

A tailor can often take in a shirt body or trouser leg that is too full, which helps slim men who find ready-made sizes loose.

The rest, from stripes and colours to the length of your shorts, is about the look you want, so try options on and keep the ones you enjoy wearing.