Essential Clothing for Oval/Apple Body Shape Men and What to Check Before You Buy

Structured Blazer

A blazer with light structure in the shoulders, single or double-breasted, is a useful formal and smart-casual staple for an oval outline.

Start with the fit across the stomach. The fastening button should close without pulling the fronts into creases, and the fronts should hang straight rather than flaring open at the hem.

If a jacket fits your shoulders but strains at the button, a tailor may be able to let out the waist if there is spare cloth in the seams; ask before buying.

Shoulder padding that ends at your shoulder point can give the jacket a clear outline without looking rigid.

A length that covers your seat is a common choice, as it is meant to give a longer, uninterrupted line, but compare lengths in a mirror, since your height and leg length also matter.

On a single-breasted blazer, a two-button front with the top button near your natural waist gives a longer opening at the chest, which some men prefer for a longer line.

A double-breasted jacket puts more cloth across the front, so check it fastens comfortably before choosing one.

Flap pockets keep a flatter surface than patch pockets; patch pockets are a more casual option if you like that look.

Savile Row houses such as Gieves & Hawkes and Anderson & Sheppard make blazers in this style, and ready-to-wear options include AMI Paris, Tagliatore and Tom Ford; try several cuts, as each maker’s pattern differs.

Ventless or Vented Sports Coat

A sports coat in a soft texture such as herringbone is a relaxed alternative to the blazer.

Whether to choose a ventless back or vents is a matter of preference.

A ventless back gives a smooth line from shoulders to hem when you stand.

Side or centre vents let the jacket open over the seat when you sit or put your hands in your pockets, which some men with a fuller middle find more comfortable.

Try both seated as well as standing.

A slightly relaxed cut through the body with some structure in the shoulders combines comfort with a clear outline.

William Crabtree & Sons and the bespoke tailor Richard Anderson are examples of makers that produce sports coats.

Column-Cut Overcoat

A straight, column-cut overcoat falls in one line from shoulders to knee, which many men with an oval outline like because it does not cut across the middle.

Choose a coat with little waist suppression, and check it fastens over a jacket without pulling across the stomach.

A peak lapel points upward and outward and is meant to draw the eye towards the shoulders; a notch lapel is an equally valid, quieter choice, so compare both.

Crombie is one long-established British maker of overcoats in this style.

Spread Collar Dress Shirt

A spread collar frames the face and neck, and some men with a fuller face like the way it balances width at the jaw.

First check that the collar buttons comfortably with a finger’s room at the neck and that the shirt closes across the stomach without gaping between buttons; both matter more than the collar style.

The collar points should sit neatly under your jacket lapels.

A moderate spread is a common middle ground; an extreme cutaway is a stronger look that you may or may not like.

Turnbull & Asser and Emma Willis are two Jermyn Street shirtmakers that offer spread collars.

Forward-Point Oxford Shirt

A forward-point or long-point collar has narrower-set points than a spread collar, giving a longer, more vertical line at the neck.

Some men prefer that line on a fuller face; others prefer a spread, so compare both in a mirror.

Back darts or pleats change how much cloth sits at the back.

Darts take cloth out, which suits a flatter back but can make a shirt tight across the stomach; side pleats add room for movement.

If a shirt fits your chest but pulls at the stomach, choose the cut with more room rather than the one with the neatest back.

Drake’s makes oxford shirts with a long-point collar, and Charvet offers made-to-measure shirts if ready-to-wear sizes do not fit your chest and stomach at the same time.

Three-Button Polo Shirt

A longer placket gives a longer opening at the neck, which some men like for a more vertical line.

A collar that holds its shape when worn open frames the face better than one that collapses.

Choose a length that covers your waistband with room to spare, so the shirt does not ride up when you sit or reach.

If you wear it untucked, check that the hem does not cling at the stomach.

Sunspel makes polos in Sea Island cotton and John Smedley makes the Payton polo in fine merino; check each maker’s size chart, as the cut differs between them.

V-Neck Jumper

A V-neck makes a vertical line at the chest, and a slightly deeper V is a common choice if a longer-looking torso is the aim.

How deep is a matter of taste; try it with the shirt you will wear underneath.

A crew neck is a perfectly good alternative if you prefer it.

A knit with a gentle rib at the hem, or one long enough to sit below the stomach, is less likely to cling to the middle or ride up than a tight, short rib.

Set-in sleeves give a neater shoulder line than raglan sleeves, which some men prefer under a jacket.

William Lockie is a Scottish knitwear maker that produces V-neck jumpers in lambswool and cashmere.

Full-Length Cardigan

A longer cardigan that reaches past the hips gives a long vertical line when worn open, which many men with an oval outline find comfortable and easy to wear.

Check that it buttons without pulling across the stomach; worn open, it should hang straight rather than swinging away at the hem.

Contrast bands or patch pockets at the waist add a horizontal detail at the middle; if a more even outline is the aim, plain fronts are the quieter choice.

The shoulder seam should sit at your natural shoulder.

Anderson & Sheppard and Loro Piana both make cashmere cardigans.

High-Rise Formal Trousers

Many men with an oval outline find a higher-rise trouser more comfortable, because the waistband can sit above the fullest point of the abdomen rather than under it, where it can roll or slip down.

Your natural waist and the fullest point of your abdomen may be in different places, and the navel is not a fixed guide to either.

Rise labels also vary between makers, so check where the waistband actually sits when you stand and when you sit, and choose the position that stays put comfortably.

Side adjusters or an extended tab let you wear the trousers without a belt, which some men prefer for a smoother line at the middle; braces are another option for keeping a higher waistband in place.

Pleats are a matter of preference.

Some men find they add room for sitting and a softer drape over the thighs; others prefer a flat front.

Try both, and check that pleats lie closed when you stand.

Edward Sexton is one example of a tailor known for higher-rise trousers.

Mid-Rise Chinos

A mid-rise chino suits men who prefer the waistband lower than a formal trouser, as long as it stays where you put it when you sit and does not dig in below the stomach.

A flat front gives a plain surface; a single pleat adds room, so choose whichever sits better on you.

A straight leg, or one with only a gentle taper, keeps some width at the ankle, which many men with slimmer legs and a fuller middle like for a more even line.

A sharp taper is a different look rather than a mistake; compare the two with the shoes you will wear.

Incotex and Rota are Italian makers known for chinos and casual trousers.

Straight-Leg Denim

Straight-leg jeans keep a similar width from thigh to ankle, which many men with an oval outline find easy to balance with a fuller middle.

As with trousers, rise labels vary between makers, so check where the waistband sits standing and seated rather than relying on the label or your navel.

A waistband that stays put without rolling under the stomach is the aim.

Denim weight is mostly a matter of feel; heavier denim is stiffer at first and lighter denim softer.

Check the maker’s description, as the same weight can behave differently with different finishes and stretch content.

Back pocket position changes how the seat looks, so compare a few pairs from behind in a mirror.

Anglo-Italian and Blackhorse Lane are London makers of straight-leg jeans.

Plain Oxford Shoes

Shoe choice depends far more on your feet, your trousers and the occasion than on your body shape.

A plain oxford with a moderate toe, neither sharply pointed nor square, is a versatile formal choice.

A closely trimmed sole gives a sleeker look; a wider sole looks more robust and pairs well with heavier cloth.

Heel height should be whatever you can walk in comfortably.

Crockett & Jones makes the Audley, a cap-toe oxford, and Gaziano & Girling offers bespoke shoes.

Apron-Front Loafers

Loafers with an apron front are a smart-casual alternative to laced shoes.

A plain apron with neat stitching looks dressier than a heavily decorated one.

Choose a toe shape and heel height you find comfortable and that suit the trousers you wear them with.

Edward Green’s Ventnor is a penny loafer in this style, and George Cleverley offers bespoke shoes.

Dress Belt

A belt draws a line across the waist, so if you would rather not mark the middle, side adjusters or braces are alternatives.

If you do wear a belt, a narrower dress belt in a colour close to your trousers is a quieter choice than a wide or contrasting one.

A flat, simple frame buckle sits closer to the body than a large plate buckle.

Check that the belt is the right length for where your waistband actually sits; a belt that has to be fastened on its last hole, or that is pulled tight under the stomach, is a sign the trousers or belt size need another look.

Ettinger is one British maker of bridle leather dress belts.

Slim Briefcase

Bag size is a practical choice, so pick one that holds what you carry.

A slim, structured briefcase keeps its shape when it is not full and adds little bulk at your side.

A handle or strap that lets the bag hang comfortably without pulling your jacket out of shape matters more than any exact dimension.

Swaine Adeney Brigg and William & Son are two British makers of leather briefcases.

Structured Holdall

For weekends away, a holdall that holds its shape when partly packed looks neater than a soft bag that slumps.

Choose a size that fits what you pack and, if you fly, the airline’s cabin limits.

Bennett Winch makes structured weekend bags.

Dress Watch

Watch size depends on your wrist and your taste rather than your body shape.

A slim case slides under a shirt cuff more easily than a thick one, which is why thinner watches are traditional with tailoring.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control and Cartier’s Tank are two well-known dress watches, round and rectangular respectively.

Dress Scarf

A scarf long enough to wrap or drape in several ways gives you more options; a lightweight wool or silk adds less bulk at the neck than a chunky knit.

Patterns with a vertical feel, such as fine stripes, suit men who like a longer line, though any pattern you enjoy wearing is a fair choice.

Johnstons of Elgin makes wool and cashmere scarves, and Drake’s offers printed silk scarves.

Pocket Square

A pocket square adds colour near the face.

Lightweight silk or fine cotton folds neatly without bulging the pocket.

A simple straight fold is the plainest option; a puff fold is more relaxed.

Choose by occasion and taste.

Turnbull & Asser and Charvet both sell silk pocket squares.

Building Your Wardrobe

An oval outline is not a problem to hide.

Many men with this outline have comparatively slim legs and arms, and garments that fit well through the middle let the rest of the outline show.

If you are building from scratch, start with the garments you wear most, such as a well-fitting single-breasted blazer, shirts that close comfortably across the stomach and trousers with a waistband that stays where you want it.

Get those right before adding accessories.

Navy, charcoal and dark olive are versatile colours that combine easily for business and casual wear; darker colours are a common choice if you want less emphasis on the middle, but lighter colours are not off limits.

Treat every suggestion here as something to try in the mirror.

As you get to know what feels right, adjust any of these choices to suit your own style.