How to Wear Polo Shirts if You Are a Skinny Man, From Fit and Fabric to Styling

Start With Fit: Shoulders, Chest and Sleeves

Many slim men find that a slim-fit or tailored-fit polo follows the body better than a regular fit, which can leave spare cloth around the waist.

Fit names vary between makers, so compare the chest and length measurements on the size chart with a polo you already like.

The shoulder seam is the first check: on a classic polo it should sit at or close to the edge of your shoulder.

A seam that sits well down the upper arm usually means the size is too big, unless the polo is designed with a dropped shoulder.

The sleeves should sit close to the arm without gripping it, so you can lift and bend your arm freely.

Where the sleeve ends depends on the length of your upper arm and the look you want; a sleeve that ends around the middle of the upper arm is a common choice.

Sunspel makes polos in Sea Island cotton, and Fred Perry’s classic polo is another to compare; try them, or compare their size charts, against your own measurements.

Fabric Weight: Lighter Knits and Heavier Piqué

Fabric weight changes how a polo sits on a slim frame, and both directions work.

A lightweight piqué or fine cotton knit drapes closer to the body.

That gives a smooth, close line, and it also shows the shape of a slim torso clearly, which you may or may not want.

A heavier piqué or interlock holds its own shape and stands a little away from the body, which adds some visual body.

The trade-off is that a heavy polo that is also too big can look boxy, so fit matters more as the fabric gets heavier.

A little stretch in the fabric can help a close fit move with you; check the composition on the label, as the amount varies between makers.

John Smedley knits fine Sea Island cotton polos, and Lacoste sells its L.12.12 piqué polo in a slim fit as well as the classic fit; compare a lighter and a heavier polo on yourself and choose the look you prefer.

Colour and Pattern

Solid colours and small patterns are the easiest polos to wear with other garments, and they keep the attention on the fit.

Large prints and bold stripes are a matter of taste.

Studies of stripes do not support a single rule that horizontal stripes make a body look wider or narrower, so if you like a striped polo, judge it in a mirror rather than ruling it out.

A print in a scale that matches the size of your frame tends to look more deliberate than a very large one.

Colour is likewise a preference.

Navy, charcoal and burgundy are versatile and easy to pair with chinos or tailored trousers; lighter colours are just as wearable, especially in summer.

Choose the colours you like near your face.

Ralph Lauren and Brunello Cucinelli are two makers that offer solid and finely patterned polos at the luxury end.

Tucked, Half-Tucked or Untucked

A fully tucked polo looks smarter and suits tailored trousers.

A half tuck, with the front tucked and the back left out, is a more relaxed option some men like with chinos or jeans.

Untucked is fine too, as long as the polo is the right length and not too wide through the body; a loose, long polo worn out can look boxy on a slim frame, while one that fits looks neat.

When you tuck, check where your trouser waistband sits, standing and seated.

A waistband at or near your natural waist is often suggested for a longer-looking leg line; a lower waistband gives a more casual look.

Rise labels vary between makers, so try the trousers on.

Collar Shape and Size

Many slim men prefer a collar in proportion with a narrow neck and face, such as a flat-knit collar or a modest ribbed collar.

A large, heavy collar can look out of scale on a slim neck to some eyes, but that is a judgement to make in a mirror, not a rule.

Whatever the style, the collar should sit evenly without flopping or curling at the points.

A collar that keeps its shape after washing is a good sign of quality.

Orlebar Brown’s Sebastian is one example of a tailored-fit polo with a two-piece collar that holds its shape, made in several fabrics.

Plackets and Buttons

Two- and three-button plackets are the most common, and a longer placket opens into a deeper V at the neck when the top buttons are undone.

Some men like that open neckline for a relaxed look; others prefer a shorter placket or a buttoned-up collar for a neater finish.

How many buttons you leave undone is a matter of occasion and taste.

One undone is the usual casual choice; two gives a more open neckline.

Neither changes the width of your chest, but you may prefer how one looks on you.

Zanone’s Ice Cotton polos are one knitted example; check the current range for the button count you prefer.

Length When Worn Untucked

If you wear a polo untucked, a hem that ends somewhere around the top of the trouser pockets, covering the waistband but not reaching far below it, is a common guide.

The right length depends on your torso and on the polo’s cut, so check it standing and with your arms raised.

A polo that is long as well as loose can hang and billow around the waist on a slim frame.

Many polos have a longer back than front (a tennis tail); that is a design feature for tucking, so decide whether you like it untucked.

Officine Générale and A.P.C. are two makers whose polos are worth comparing; check the body length on their size charts against a polo you already wear.

Layer Your Polo Under Light Jackets

A fitted polo under an unstructured blazer, overshirt or light jacket adds a layer, which many slim men like for the extra visual weight it gives the upper body.

A jacket with little shoulder padding follows your natural shoulder line, which suits a relaxed look; if you would like a little more width at the shoulder, a jacket with light padding is the alternative.

Either way, the jacket should fit your shoulders first.

A tonal outfit, with the polo, jacket and trousers in related shades, gives an unbroken line that some men like; a contrasting polo under a jacket is just as valid if you prefer it.

Drake’s and Eleventy are two makers that sell unstructured jackets and polos you can wear together.

The Final Word on Polo Shirts for Slim Builds

Polo shirts can be a mainstay of a slim man’s casual wardrobe.

Start with fit at the shoulders, chest, sleeves and length, then choose the fabric weight, collar, placket and colour that give the look you want.

A slim build does not need to be hidden or compensated for.

If you like an oversized look, choose a polo designed to be oversized rather than simply buying a larger size, so the shoulders and length still look intended.

With fit sorted, a polo can move from weekends to smart casual outfits under a light jacket.