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What’s This About
Ralph Lauren’s most iconic menswear designs are classic garments sold as one recognisable look, and each can be worn casually or smartly with clothes you already own.
This guide covers ten Ralph Lauren designs, with what to look for and complete outfits for each, such as:
The double-breasted suit, from business wear to evening
Chinos in khaki, navy and olive
The Polo Bear sweater and where the bear came from
The safari jacket and its colonial history
The Polo shirt, launched in 1972
and many more!
Every outfit works with similar garments from other makers, so use the brand as a reference rather than a rule.
Key Points
01Ralph Lauren’s own timeline dates Polo neckwear to 1967, the Polo shirt to 1972, the Polo Bear to 1991 and Double RL to 1993.
02According to the company, the first Polo Bear sweater followed in 1992, a year after the bear’s debut.
03A double-breasted jacket is meant to be worn fastened, so choose single-breasted if you like to wear jackets open.
04Check fit through the shoulders and seat before the label, because shoulders are the hardest area to alter.
Ralph Lauren started in 1967 with a line of Polo neckties and showed his first full men’s collection in 1968, according to the company’s own heritage timeline.
Since then, a handful of his designs have become standard menswear, worn far beyond the brand’s own customers.
This guide covers ten of them: the double-breasted suit, chinos, the Polo Bear sweater, Western clothing, the safari jacket, the Polo shirt, the cable-knit jumper, the Oxford shirt, the blazer and the rugby shirt.
For each one you will find what to look for when buying and complete outfits for casual, business casual and smarter occasions.
The outfits work just as well with similar garments from other makers, so treat the brand as a reference point rather than a requirement.
Ralph Lauren Dates Worth Knowing
These dates come from Ralph Lauren’s published heritage timeline.
1967: Polo neckwear launches.
1968: The first full men’s collection is shown.
1972: The Polo shirt is launched.
1974: Polo menswear appears in the film The Great Gatsby.
1979: The Polo Western line debuts, followed by the Santa Fe collection in 1981.
1984: The Safari collection is presented.
1991: The Polo Bear debuts.
1993: Double RL (RRL) launches.
1995: Purple Label is introduced.
1997: The company lists on the New York Stock Exchange.
For how the different lines compare, see our guides to Polo Ralph Lauren versus Ralph Lauren and Ralph Lauren Purple Label.
Double-Breasted Suit
The double-breasted suit is one of the most recognisable shapes in Ralph Lauren’s tailoring, usually cut with peak lapels and a clear waist.
Ralph Lauren’s double-breasted suits have changed shape over the years, so check the fit of the exact suit rather than relying on the label.
What to look for
Button layout: the most common is six buttons with two that fasten, sometimes written as six-on-two; other layouts such as six-on-one and four-on-two also exist.
Lapels: peak lapels are usual on double-breasted jackets, while shawl lapels appear on evening versions.
Sleeve buttons: working buttonholes on the cuff are found on some suits and not others, and they mainly make sleeve alterations harder, so they are a preference rather than a guarantee of better tailoring.
Fit: the jacket should close flat across the front without pulling, and the shoulders should end where yours do, because shoulders are the hardest area to alter.
Colour: navy and mid-grey are the easiest colours to wear often; chalk stripe and check suits are dressier and more noticeable.
A double-breasted jacket is meant to be worn fastened, so if you prefer to wear your jacket open, a single-breasted suit is the more practical choice.
How to wear it
Business: wear a navy double-breasted suit with a light blue or white shirt, a navy or repp-stripe tie, a white pocket square and black cap-toe Oxford shoes.
Creative workplace: wear a brown or charcoal double-breasted jacket over an open-collar shirt, with dark trousers and black or dark brown boots or loafers, and leave out the tie.
Evening: wear a double-breasted jacket with a white dress shirt, a black bow tie, a white pocket square, dark trousers and black patent or highly polished shoes.
A patterned jacket such as a Glen check, as pictured, makes black tie less formal, so keep a plain black or midnight dinner suit for strict black tie dress codes.
Chinos
Chinos are cotton twill trousers that began as military uniform trousers and became a staple of American preppy style.
Ralph Lauren sells them in several fits and many colours, from khaki and navy to olive.
What to look for
Fit: choose the leg shape you like, whether straight, tapered or wider, and make sure the seat and thighs do not pull.
Length: a short break or no break suits loafers and boat shoes; a slight break suits boots and lace-ups.
Fabric: pure cotton twill wrinkles more but feels crisp, while cotton with a little stretch is more comfortable but can lose shape over time.
Colour: khaki, stone and navy go with the most shirts and jackets.
How to wear them
Casual: wear khaki chinos with a blue polo shirt, a striped webbing or leather belt and brown leather boat shoes, adding a navy cotton jumper when it is cool.
Business casual: wear dark chinos with a white shirt and knitted tie, a navy cardigan, a grey wool jacket and black leather shoes.
Smart casual: wear olive chinos with a white shirt and a brown leather belt, a navy jumper over the shoulders and brown suede loafers.
Polo Bear Sweater
The Polo Bear is a teddy bear dressed in Ralph Lauren clothes, used as a motif on knitwear, T-shirts and other clothing.
According to Ralph Lauren’s own magazine, the idea came from personalised Steiff bears that colleagues gave to Jerry Lauren, for his birthday, and to Ralph Lauren in 1990.
The company says the Polo Bear debuted in 1991 as a limited run of 200 teddy bears and on clothing, and the first Polo Bear sweater followed in 1992 with the bear wearing an American flag sweater.
The bear has since appeared in many outfits, from a blazer and tie to ski clothes and evening dress.
Older Polo Bear sweaters are collected and resold, but prices vary widely, so do not buy one expecting it to gain value.
How to wear it
Casual: wear a Polo Bear jumper with straight dark jeans, white leather trainers and a navy quilted or field jacket.
Smart casual: layer a Polo Bear jumper over a white or blue Oxford shirt with stone chinos, brown loafers and a navy blazer.
Statement: let a brightly coloured Polo Bear design be the only pattern in the outfit, with charcoal trousers, black boots and a plain dark overcoat.
Polo Western Clothing
Ralph Lauren’s timeline dates the Polo Western line to 1979, with denim and other Western-inspired clothing, followed by the Santa Fe collection in 1981.
Western clothing has stayed in the brand’s range since then, and Double RL, launched in 1993, is the line most associated with workwear and Western clothing today.
Typical Western garments include denim shirts with snap fastenings, suede jackets, patterned knitwear, belts with silver hardware and cowboy boots.
Many patterns sold as “Navajo-inspired” or “Southwestern” borrow from Native American designs, and the use of those designs by fashion brands has been criticised as cultural appropriation.
If that matters to you, look for knitwear and blankets made by or in partnership with Native American artists and businesses, and check how a brand describes its sources.
How to wear it
Casual: wear a denim Western shirt with stone chinos, a plain brown leather belt and suede desert boots, with a navy cotton jacket when it is cool.
Smart casual: wear a patterned knitted jumper over a white shirt with dark jeans, brown Chelsea boots and a brown suede jacket.
Statement: make a suede or fringed jacket the focus, with a plain white T-shirt or shirt, dark straight trousers and brown boots.
Safari Jacket
Ralph Lauren presented a Safari collection in 1984, according to the company’s timeline.
The safari or bush jacket is a cotton jacket with patch pockets and often a belt, descended from British army khaki drill uniforms of around 1900; the name “safari jacket” appeared in the 1930s, when European hunters wore it in colonial Africa.
That colonial history belongs to the garment’s story, and it is worth knowing when a brand markets the jacket as a romantic adventure.
What to look for
Pockets: four patch pockets, usually with buttoned flaps, are the classic layout.
Belt: a self-belt gathers the waist; you can wear it fastened, tied at the back or removed.
Shoulders: epaulettes are common but optional.
Collar: a shirt-style collar, worn open, is the most versatile.
Fabric: cotton drill or a cotton and linen mix in khaki, olive or sand is the most practical; suede versions are warmer and dressier.
How to wear it
Casual: wear a khaki safari jacket over a white T-shirt with mid-blue jeans, a brown leather belt and suede desert boots.
City: wear a darker olive or navy safari jacket over a fine-gauge roll-neck, with grey tailored trousers and brown suede loafers.
Creative workplace: wear an olive safari jacket over a blue Oxford shirt, with stone chinos and brown brogues.
Polo Shirt
Ralph Lauren launched his Polo shirt in 1972: a cotton piqué short-sleeved shirt with a ribbed collar and a small embroidered polo player on the chest.
The piqué tennis shirt already existed, and Lacoste, for example, dates its own to 1933, so Ralph Lauren popularised a version of an existing shirt rather than inventing the style.
The company says its Polo shirt was added to the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art in 2017.
It is now made in many colours and fits, so check the shoulder seam and length rather than relying on the fit name.
How to wear it
Casual: wear a coloured polo shirt with dark jeans, white leather trainers and a navy cotton jacket.
Business casual: wear a white or navy polo shirt tucked into stone or grey chinos, with a brown leather belt, brown loafers and a navy unstructured blazer.
Smart casual: wear a navy polo shirt under a light grey or tan blazer, with khaki trousers and brown brogues.
Cable-Knit Jumper
Cable knitting is associated with the Aran jumpers of the west of Ireland, and Ralph Lauren’s cable-knit jumpers in cotton, wool and cashmere are among its best-known knitwear.
Chunky versions are warmer and more casual, while fine-gauge versions layer more easily under a jacket.
How to wear it
Casual: wear a chunky cream cable-knit jumper over a white T-shirt, with dark jeans, brown leather boots and a waxed or quilted jacket.
Business casual: wear a fine cable-knit jumper over a light blue Oxford shirt, with grey wool trousers, brown loafers and a navy overcoat.
Smart casual: wear a V-neck cable-knit over a collared shirt, with stone chinos, suede desert boots and a tweed jacket.
Oxford Shirt
The Oxford shirt is a cotton shirt in Oxford cloth, a soft basket-weave fabric, usually with a button-down collar.
The button-down Oxford became a campus staple in the United States in the mid-20th century, and Ralph Lauren sells it with the embroidered polo player in many colours and fits.
Check that the collar points sit flat and that the shoulders and sleeves fit, because a good collar roll is what makes the shirt look neat without a tie.
How to wear it
Casual: wear an untucked Oxford shirt with the sleeves rolled, chino shorts or chinos and leather boat shoes.
Business casual: tuck a light blue Oxford shirt into khaki chinos, with a brown leather belt, penny loafers and a navy blazer.
Smart casual: wear a white Oxford shirt under a navy blazer, with dark jeans and brown brogues.
Blazer
The blazer grew out of the coloured jackets worn by British rowing and sports clubs in the 19th century, and the navy blazer with metal buttons is now a standard of preppy dressing.
Ralph Lauren sells structured wool blazers and softer, unlined versions in linen and cotton.
A navy wool blazer is the most versatile, and a softer, unlined version is easier to wear in warm weather.
How to wear it
Casual: wear an unstructured linen blazer over a white T-shirt, with stone chinos and brown suede loafers.
Business casual: wear a navy wool blazer with a light blue Oxford shirt, grey flannel trousers and brown brogues.
Smart casual: wear a tweed blazer over a fine-gauge roll-neck, with dark jeans and brown Chelsea boots.
Rugby Shirt
The rugby shirt is a heavy cotton long-sleeved shirt with a sturdy collar, originally worn for the sport in 19th-century Britain.
Ralph Lauren sells rugby shirts in heavyweight striped cotton as well as lighter, plainer versions.
Bold stripes are casual, while a plain dark rugby shirt can be worn under a jacket.
How to wear it
Casual: wear a striped rugby shirt over a white T-shirt, with mid-blue jeans, white trainers and a navy field jacket.
Business casual: wear a plain navy or green rugby shirt with khaki chinos, a brown leather belt and brown loafers.
Smart casual: wear a plain dark rugby shirt under a navy blazer, with grey trousers and brown suede brogues.
Conclusion
Ralph Lauren’s best-known designs are mostly versions of classic garments: the double-breasted suit, chinos, the Oxford shirt, the blazer, the polo shirt, the rugby shirt and the cable-knit jumper.
The brand’s contribution was to sell them together as one recognisable look, alongside its own creations such as the Polo Bear.
Whichever maker you buy from, the same checks apply: fit through the shoulders and seat, a fabric suited to the season, and outfits that combine the garment with clothes you already own.
Next Steps
To go further, start with The VOU’s quizzes: check your body shape, find your seasonal colours and take the fashion style quiz.
Then, if you would like personal help, you can book a paid consultation, such as our fashion style analysis for men.
Our styling services for men are paid consultations; the shop page lists what each one includes.
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