With suits often fetching upwards of $6,500 (about £5,000) and bespoke options soaring into five-figure territory, it’s natural to wonder: why is Brioni so bloody expensive?
As a fashion expert with over three decades in the industry, I’ve watched Brioni’s ascent with a mixture of awe and scepticism.
Today, we’ll unpick the threads of this luxury brand’s pricing to determine whether the cost truly reflects the value.
The Intangible Cost of Brioni’s Heritage
Brioni’s story begins in 1945 when tailors Nazareno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini opened a small atelier in Rome.
They quickly gained a reputation for impeccable craftsmanship and innovative designs.
By the 1950s, Brioni was dressing Hollywood royalty and even real royalty.
However, heritage alone doesn’t justify astronomical prices.
Many venerable tailoring houses, such as Henry Poole & Co (est. 1806), offer bespoke suits starting at around £5,000—comparable to Brioni’s ready-to-wear.
While Brioni’s history adds cachet, it’s clear we must look beyond heritage to understand the full picture of its pricing.
Brioni’s Fabric Quality
Brioni prides itself on using some of the finest fabrics in the world; super 180s wool, rare vicuña, and even fabrics blended with gold or platinum threads. These fabrics can cost upwards of £1,000 per metre.
To put this in perspective, a high-quality wool for a bespoke suit from a respected Savile Row tailor might cost £200-300 per metre.
Brioni’s choice of fabric certainly contributes to the price, but it’s worth noting that diminishing returns kick in at a certain point.
The difference between super 150s and super 180s wool, for instance, is negligible to all but the most discerning eye.
 Handwork and Tailoring
Brioni claims that each suit requires up to 220 steps and over 22 hours of handwork.
Although Brioni’s level of craftsmanship is indeed impressive, it’s not unique in the world of high-end tailoring.
A fully bespoke suit from a top London or Neapolitan tailor can involve similar, if not more, hours of handwork.
What sets Brioni apart is the application of these techniques to ready-to-wear garments.
The brand essentially offers bespoke-level construction in off-the-rack clothing.
The Bespoke Process of Brioni
Brioni’s bespoke service, which can push prices north of £30,000, involves multiple fittings and hundreds of hours of work.
The process is undoubtedly luxurious, with clients treated to a VIP experience from start to finish.
But is this level of service necessary for a well-fitting suit? Many would argue not. Savile Row tailors achieve exceptional results with fewer fittings and at lower prices.
The extra cost at Brioni seems to be as much about the VIP experience as the end product.
Limited Availability
Brioni produces a relatively small number of garments each year, which naturally drives up prices.
The brand claims this is due to the time-intensive nature of their production process.
However, we must consider whether this scarcity is entirely necessary or partially a marketing strategy.
Luxury brands often artificially limit supply to maintain exclusivity and justify high prices.
While Brioni’s production is genuinely labour-intensive, the degree to which this impacts availability—and thus price—is debatable.
Celebrity Associations
Brioni’s relationship with celebrities goes beyond mere name-dropping. The brand has strategically aligned itself with influential figures, often custom-tailoring their red carpet and on-screen appearances.
For example, James Bond, portrayed by Pierce Brosnan, wore Brioni suits in four films from 1995 to 2002.
In “GoldenEye” (1995), Brosnan donned a navy blue Brioni suit during the iconic casino scene, which helped cement the brand’s association with sophisticated masculinity.
Brioni provided 154 garments for “Die Another Day” (2002), including tuxedos, suits, leather jackets, and even polo shirts, demonstrating the brand’s versatility.
More recently, Daniel Craig wore a black Brioni tuxedo to the world premiere of “Spectre” in 2015. Though not worn in the film itself, this high-profile appearance reinforced Brioni’s Bond connection.
Hollywood’s red carpets have seen numerous Brioni moments. At the 2020 Golden Globe Awards, Brad Pitt accepted his Best Supporting Actor award wearing a classic Brioni tuxedo.
This appearance was part of a broader partnership; Pitt became an official brand ambassador in 2019, featuring in the Spring/Summer 2020 campaign titled “Tailoring Legends”.
It’s worth noting that these celebrity associations come at a significant cost to Brioni.
The brand reportedly spends millions annually on celebrity partnerships and red carpet placements. For instance, the multi-year deal with Brad Pitt was estimated to be worth over $5 million.
While these associations undoubtedly elevate Brioni’s profile, they also contribute to the brand’s high prices.
Do Brioni Suits Really Last Longer?
Proponents of Brioni often argue that the high price is justified by the longevity of the garments.
There’s truth to this – a well-made suit can last decades with proper care. However, this argument has its limits.
Firstly, any suit at the £2,000+ price point should last many years if well-maintained.
The difference in longevity between a £5,000 Brioni suit and a £2,500 suit from a respected brand is likely minimal.
Secondly, fashion changes. While Brioni’s classic styles may remain relevant, paying a premium for longevity in more trend-sensitive pieces is questionable.
Brioni As a Status Symbol
Let’s be frank—a significant portion of Brioni’s price tag is for the name itself.
Wearing Brioni signals not just refined taste, but also considerable wealth.
For many customers, this is precisely the point.
However, it’s worth considering whether this status is worth the premium.
In many circles, a beautifully tailored suit from a less ostentatious brand might garner more respect than an obviously expensive designer label.
Is Brioni Worth It?
After dissecting the various factors contributing to Brioni’s high prices, we arrive at the crucial question: is it worth it?
Pros:
– Exceptional quality materials and craftsmanship
– Prestige and status associated with the brand
– Potential for long-lasting garments
– Luxurious shopping and bespoke experiences
Cons:
– Significantly higher prices than comparable quality from other brands
– Paying a premium for brand name and marketing
– Diminishing returns on some luxury features
– Potential for appearing ostentatious rather than tasteful
For those who prioritise craftsmanship above all else, there are likely better values to be found elsewhere.
However, for individuals seeking a combination of quality, prestige, and luxury experience -and for whom money is no object – Brioni might well be worth the investment.
How Brioni Stacks Up Against Other Luxury Brands
Let’s compare Brioni to other luxury menswear brands, examining their prices, quality, and positioning.
Kiton, another ultra-luxury Italian brand, offers suits at similar price points to Brioni.
A ready-to-wear Kiton suit typically ranges from £5,000 to £7,000, comparable to Brioni’s £5,000 to £10,000 range.
Both brands use extremely high-quality fabrics, often sourcing from the same mills.
They employ a similar number of hand-sewing hours per garment (Kiton claims up to 25 hours, while Brioni cites 22).
Both maintain small-scale production in Italy, contributing to higher costs.
However, they are fundamentally different in their styling. Kiton tends towards a softer, more Neapolitan silhouette, while Brioni offers a more structured, Roman cut.
Ermenegildo Zegna, while still a luxury brand, generally comes in at a lower price point.
Their top-tier ready-to-wear suits typically range from £2,500 to £4,000.
This price difference can be attributed to the brand’s larger-scale production, less emphasis on handwork (though still high-quality construction), and a broader range of fabric qualities, including more accessible options.
Despite the lower price, Zegna is known for innovative fabrics and modern styling, often appealing to a slightly younger demographic than Brioni.
Tom Ford, a more recent entrant to luxury menswear, positions itself between Zegna and Brioni in pricing. A typical Tom Ford suit ranges from £3,500 to £5,500.
The brand offers a distinctive, fashion-forward styling, high-quality Italian construction, though with less emphasis on handwork than Brioni, and strong celebrity associations and runway presence.
Compared to Brioni, Tom Ford relies more on edgy designs than on traditional craftsmanship, hence the lower price point.
At the bespoke level, Brioni faces stiff competition from traditional tailoring houses.
A bespoke suit from Gieves & Hawkes or Huntsman on Savile Row will typically start around £5,000 to £6,000, potentially rising to £10,000 or more for the finest fabrics.
This is often less than Brioni’s bespoke offerings, which can easily exceed £30,000.
The price difference here is striking, considering that Savile Row bespoke involves multiple fittings and a pattern cut specifically for the customer, entirely handmade construction, often exceeding 50 hours of work, and access to the same high-quality fabrics used by Brioni.
The premium for Brioni in this case seems to stem more from brand prestige and luxurious service than from superior craftsmanship.
In essence, while Brioni’s quality is undoubtedly high, its prices are at the very top of the luxury market.
- Brands like Kiton match this pricing by offering similar quality and exclusivity.
- Others, like Zegna and Tom Ford, provide luxury at a somewhat more accessible price point by adjusting their production methods or brand positioning.
- Traditional bespoke tailors often offer comparable (or potentially superior) quality at lower prices, but without the global brand recognition of Brioni.
Making an Informed Decision on Brioni’s Value
Brioni’s high prices stem from a combination of genuine quality, brand prestige, and clever marketing.
While the craftsmanship is undoubtedly exceptional, much of what you’re paying for is the name and the experience.
For those seeking to project success and refinement through their attire, Brioni offers a shortcut – albeit an expensive one.
However, the truly discerning gentleman might find equal or greater satisfaction in exploring bespoke options from less flashy, but equally skilled, tailors.
Nevertheless, remember that true style transcends price tags and designer labels. Whether you choose to invest in Brioni or explore other avenues of refined menswear, what matters most is how you carry yourself.
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