Start here
What’s This About
White tie is the most formal evening dress code, consisting of a black evening tailcoat and matching trousers, a stiff-fronted white wing-collar shirt, a white piqué waistcoat and a white bow tie, with black patent shoes.
This guide explains each garment and how it should fit, such as
the evening tailcoat and how it differs from a morning coat
full-dress trousers, shirts, collars and studs
the white waistcoat and why its length matters
the white bow tie, shoes, socks and accessories
what not to wear, where to buy and when white tie is used today
and many more!
Follow the invitation and any instructions from the host, especially at state and royal occasions.
Key Points
01White tie is evening dress, more formal than black tie, and is now worn mainly at state banquets, some royal and diplomatic receptions, traditional balls and a few ceremonial dinners.
02The tailcoat is worn open, so the white waistcoat must be short enough not to show below the coat’s fronts.
03The shirt has a stiff piqué front, studs, a wing collar and single cuffs with cufflinks, and the bow tie is white piqué.
04A black bow tie, a necktie, a dinner jacket, a cummerbund or a wristwatch does not belong with white tie.
The White Tie dress code represents the highest level of formal civilian attire for men.
It calls for a specific evening outfit built around a black tailcoat, a white waistcoat and a white bow tie.
Invitations are rare, so this guide explains each garment and the conventions behind it.
White tie leaves much less room for personal choice than the more flexible Black Tie code.
What to Look For in the Evening Tailcoat
White tie is built around one coat, the black evening tailcoat, which some tailors call a dress coat.
It is cut straight across at the waist in front, falls into two long tails behind and is always worn open.
Do not confuse it with the morning coat, the daytime tailcoat, which fastens with a single button, curves gradually back from the waist towards the tails and has lapels in the coat’s own cloth.
The evening tailcoat has silk-faced lapels and two rows of buttons that are never fastened.
Because the coat is worn open, the fit across your chest and shoulders shows more than it would on a suit jacket, so have a ready-made tailcoat altered, or choose made to measure, if the fronts gape or the shoulders crease.
Cloth and Colour
Choose black or midnight blue in a plain, matt worsted wool; barathea, a fine ribbed weave, is the usual British choice.
A wool and mohair blend adds a slight sheen and resists creasing, which helps over a long evening of dining and dancing.
Avoid shiny synthetic cloth and any colour other than black or midnight blue.
How the Front Should Sit
The coat’s fronts stop just below your natural waist, and your white waistcoat should finish at the same height.
That high meeting point of white and black makes your legs look longer, which is why the coat, waistcoat and trousers have to be cut to work together.
Worn open, the coat should frame a broad expanse of shirt, and the lapels should end just under the waistcoat’s highest button.
At the back, the coat should lie smooth, with no folds across the shoulders or below the collar.
Check the back of your neck in a second mirror, where the coat collar should hug it closely enough to cover the collar stud and the bow tie band, with white wing collar still showing above.
Buttons
The front carries two rows of ornamental buttons, usually three a side; according to The Black Tie Guide, evening tailcoats have been cut so that they cannot close since the 1820s.
Each sleeve usually has four closely set buttons near the cuff.
Two more buttons sit at the back of the waist, where the tails begin, a detail the evening tailcoat shares with the morning coat.
Buttons covered in the lapel silk or the coat cloth look most formal, though plain black buttons are also correct.
Lapels
Look for peaked lapels faced in silk, either glossy satin or ribbed grosgrain; grosgrain is more usual in Britain and satin in North America.
A shawl collar turns up on some tailcoats from between the wars, but it is rarely seen now, and a notch lapel, the kind found on business suits, marks a costume or low-quality coat.
Ask for a working buttonhole on the left lapel, with a thread loop behind it for the flower stem.
Sleeves and Shirt Cuff
High armholes let you raise your arms, to dance or to reach across a dinner table, without lifting the whole coat.
The sleeves are fairly slim, and they should end so that about half an inch of shirt cuff shows, a little more if you are tall.
Tails
The tails come from a centre vent that runs up to the waist.
Stand side-on to a mirror to check them. The tails should reach roughly to the backs of your knees and hang straight.
When you sit, lift the tails so you are not sitting on them and let them hang behind the chair.
Pockets
A tailcoat has no hip pockets, because anything bulky would spoil the line of the fronts.
The breast pocket is for a white pocket square only.
Better tailcoats have pockets inside the tails, which is where your gloves or a slim wallet can go.
Details That Are Up to You
Chest fullness, shoulder padding and the curve of the lapels vary with the tailor and with fashion, so choose what suits your build and keep to the fixed conventions above.
The Trousers
Your trousers should be cut from the same cloth as the coat.
They need a high rise, so the waistband sits above the bottom of the coat fronts and stays hidden under the waistcoat all evening, and they should be worn with braces rather than a belt.
Flat fronts and pleats are both correct.
A silk braid, called a galloon, covers each outer leg seam and matches the lapel facings.
Debrett’s describes two narrow stripes on white tie trousers, which separates them from the single stripe on dinner suit trousers, and Emily Post’s guide gives a single stripe of satin or braid in the US and two stripes in Europe or the UK, so follow local custom; either is correct.
Historical details on this page draw on The Black Tie Guide, Debrett’s and Emily Post.
The legs finish plain, without turn-ups, and the pockets sit in the side seams so they do not show.
Buying the Coat and Trousers
Orchestra conductors, who raise their arms all evening, have their tailcoats cut with especially high armholes, which shows how much the armhole decides your comfort.
Ordering a dinner jacket from the same tailor at the same time lets one pair of single-striped trousers serve for both black tie and white tie.
Steer clear of coats sold as “tuxedo tails” or bundled with black tie accessories, especially if they have notch lapels or decorative trim.
The Dress Shirt
The white tie shirt is white, and once you are dressed only three areas of it show, which are the collar, the stiff front and the cuffs.
The body is usually a light cotton, which keeps you cooler under the waistcoat and coat.
The Stiff Front
The front, or bib, is a starched panel of cotton piqué (called marcella in Britain), plain cotton or linen that stays flat whatever your build, and the heavy starching is why the shirt is sometimes called a boiled shirt.
The bib should finish just above your trouser waistband so that it does not buckle when you sit.
It fastens with one or two visible studs rather than buttons; choose modern studs with a secure fitting, because small vintage studs can slip out of stiff buttonholes.
A soft, pleated front belongs with black tie, not white tie.
Piqué Textures
Birdseye, honeycomb and waffle are the piqué textures you are most likely to be offered; birdseye has tiny diamonds and waffle small squares.
Birdseye is the most common, and a close, fine texture looks smartest.
Putting In the Studs
Starched piqué is stiff, so fit the studs before you put the shirt on whenever you can.
If the shirt opens at the left side, reach in from there; if it does not, start with the top stud and work downwards, looking up through the opening to guide each stud.
The Wing Collar
The traditional shirt has no collar of its own and takes a separate, heavily starched wing collar, held by a short stud at the back and a longer one at the front.
The collar should stand clearly above the coat collar, by roughly three-quarters of an inch, with its wings sitting behind the bow tie.
Choose a front stud with a flat back of bone or mother-of-pearl, because it rests against your throat.
Fix the back of the collar to the shirt before you put the shirt on, since reaching behind your neck afterwards is awkward.
Cuffs
White tie shirts have stiff single cuffs rather than the folded French cuffs usual with black tie, and these single cuffs still fasten with cufflinks.
The cuffs are plain cotton, linen or piqué to match the shirt front.
Loops and Tabs
A well-made dress shirt has a small loop at the back of the neck; thread the bow tie band and the waistcoat neck strap through it so neither shows above the coat collar.
Look for a tab at the shirt’s hem that buttons inside your trousers; it keeps the stiff front from creeping upwards, and the waistcoat hides it.
Dress shirts have no breast pocket.
Shirts With an Attached Wing Collar
Separate collars became harder to buy and to launder as white tie grew rarer, so most dress shirts sold today have an attached wing collar.
An attached collar is acceptable if it is taller than an ordinary collar’s inch and a half, with generous wings and a stiff, fused construction, and if the shirt keeps the same stiff, plain front.
The White Waistcoat
Wear a white piqué waistcoat with a low V or U opening; it can be single- or double-breasted, and most are backless, held in place by a neck strap and a strap at the waist.
Length matters more than any other detail of the waistcoat.
The rule to check is simple. There should be no trouser waistband showing below it and no white showing below the coat fronts, because a band of white under the black is the error people notice first.
Try the waistcoat on with your coat and trousers, and have it shortened if it shows.
Once the length is settled, you are free to choose the shape of the lapels and the hem, so the waistcoat is where you can show some personal taste.
Fastenings
A single-breasted waistcoat usually has three buttons and a double-breasted one four, either covered in piqué or in mother-of-pearl, and on better waistcoats you can swap the buttons for removable studs, which also makes laundering easier.
Small fastenings make a difference, because buttons on the neck strap sit flatter than a metal slide and a hem tab fixed inside the trousers keeps the waistcoat from rising as you move.
Thread the neck strap through the shirt’s back loop before you put the shirt on.
Colour
Guests wear white; a black waistcoat with a tailcoat is the dress of waiting staff.
The White Bow Tie
The tie is a white piqué bow tie, ideally in the same texture as your waistcoat and shirt front, which is easiest when all three come from one maker.
Shape
A semi-butterfly bow suits most faces, and a batwing, with straight, narrower ends, is the main alternative; choose a bow whose width suits your face and your collar.
Tie It Yourself
Tie the bow yourself; Debrett’s advises learning to tie your own, and white tie is the dress code where a pre-tied bow is least acceptable.
Buy a bow tie sized to your neck, because an adjustable buckle shows against a wing collar and can slip open during the evening.
Wear the bow in front of the collar’s wings, not tucked behind them.
A black bow tie with tails is the waiter’s uniform at white tie events, so a guest’s bow tie is always white.
Single-End Bow Ties
A single-end bow tie has one shaped end and one plain end and makes a slightly neater, smaller bow, which suits a slim build; buy it sized to your neck like any other.
Shoes and Socks
Opera pumps are the most traditional choice, and black patent or highly polished whole-cut or plain Oxfords are equally correct; see our guide to dress shoes for the styles.
Patent leather catches the light better than polished calf, but if you wear calf, polish it to a high shine and use thin, flat dress laces.
A plain black Derby has some history with white tie in Europe and the US and can be more comfortable if you have a high instep, though most guides now prefer an Oxford.
Avoid velvet Albert slippers or any shoe with a high front or decoration.
Wear black silk socks that reach over the calf, so no bare leg shows when you sit.
Why Pumps?
Court dress at European royal courts paired light, low shoes with breeches and silk stockings, and opera pumps grew out of that footwear, which explains their British name, court shoes.
Accessories
Keep accessories small and quiet.
Studs and Cufflinks
A matching set of mother-of-pearl studs and cufflinks is the safest choice, and white enamel, pearl, or plain gold or platinum are also correct.
Keep onyx and dark mother-of-pearl sets for black tie.
Braces
Wear white braces, traditionally silk, that button inside the waistband; nobody sees them, so comfort matters more than the fabric, and sock suspenders are optional.
Watches
Strict tradition wore no watch with white tie; a pocket watch has been accepted since the First World War, while a wristwatch is still considered incorrect.
If you carry a pocket watch, keep it in a waistcoat pocket on a short chain.
Pocket Square
Put a plain white linen handkerchief in the breast pocket, folded neatly; hand-rolled edges and a small monogram are optional refinements.
Boutonnière
A white carnation or gardenia is the traditional buttonhole flower, and a red carnation is also widely worn; use a fresh flower rather than an artificial one.
Gloves
White kid or nappa leather gloves are rarely needed now, but some balls, royal occasions and debutante receiving lines still expect them.
Take them off to eat or drink and keep them in the inside tail pocket.
Scarf
Outdoors, a white silk evening scarf, knotted simply, keeps you warm and protects your collar.
A Coat for Getting There
Any dark formal overcoat works, ideally a black or navy one with peaked lapels.
An Inverness coat, which has a short cape over the shoulders, is the traditional option, and an evening cape is a bolder choice.
The Top Hat
A top hat is optional today, and most guests do without one.
If you want one, you can choose a fur felt hat from a specialist hatter, a secondhand silk plush hat, since new silk plush is rarely made, or a collapsible opera hat, also called a gibus, which folds flat for the cloakroom.
Avoid cheap wool felt top hats, which suit daytime wear at best, and do not swap in a Homburg if you want the outfit to read as full white tie.
Sizing a Top Hat
A rigid top hat cannot stretch to fit, so ask a hatter to check the shape of your head as well as its size; many use a conformateur, a device that records the outline of your head.
White Tie Checklist
Run through these lists before you leave, because a single wrong garment stands out at a white tie event.
Check That You Have
A black or midnight blue tailcoat and matching trousers, with peaked, silk-faced lapels
A white piqué waistcoat that covers the waistband and does not show below the coat fronts
A stiff-fronted white shirt with studs, a wing collar and single cuffs with cufflinks
A white piqué bow tie, sized to your neck and tied by hand
About half an inch of shirt cuff showing, a little more if you are tall
Opera pumps or black patent or highly polished Oxfords, with black silk over-the-calf socks
A pocket watch, if you want to carry a watch at all
Leave at Home
A dinner jacket, a white dinner jacket, a suit jacket or a morning coat in place of the evening tailcoat
A tailcoat with notch lapels
A black bow tie, a necktie, or no tie at all
A cummerbund, which belongs with black tie
A soft pleated shirt, a turndown collar, a black shirt or buttons in place of studs
A wristwatch
Velvet slippers or spats
Visible logos, bow tie adjusters or shirt and waistcoat tabs
An artificial or oversized boutonnière
For how white tie compares with other codes, see our guide to formal attire.
White Tie Attire Shopping Tips
How you source a white tie outfit depends mainly on how often you will wear it.
Bespoke or Made to Measure
A tailor experienced in evening tailcoats can cut the coat, trousers and waistcoat to work together, which solves the waistcoat-length problem described above; tailors in established centres such as London’s Savile Row, Vienna or Paris often have this experience.
Ready-to-Wear With Alterations
A ready-made tailcoat from a specialist formalwear seller, altered by a skilled tailor, is a practical middle route; avoid jackets sold as “tuxedo tails” with notch lapels or costume trim.
Hire and Vintage
Hiring is sensible for a single event, though stock can be limited, so book early and consider buying the shirt, collar, bow tie and waistcoat so they fit you properly.
A well-kept vintage tailcoat can be good value if you find one in your size and condition.
Shirts, Collars and Accessories
Collarless shirts, detachable wing collars, sized marcella bow ties, waistcoats, studs and top hats are mostly sold by specialist formalwear, legal-wear and hat makers; ask for the garment by its full name (for example “marcella dress shirt for detachable collar”) and check sizing before you buy.
A white linen pocket square completes the outfit.
White Tie Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q. Is White Tie different from Black Tie?
Yes, White Tie is different from Black Tie.
Both are formal evening dress codes, but the White Tie dress code is significantly more formal and has stricter rules.
Black Tie requires a dinner jacket ensemble (tuxedo), while White Tie demands an evening tailcoat ensemble.
Black Tie is worn with a black bow tie, and White Tie is worn with a white bow tie.
Q. Is a morning tailcoat the same as an evening tailcoat?
No, a morning tailcoat is not the same as an evening tailcoat.
A morning tailcoat, for formal daywear, is typically grey or black, has a gradually sloping cutaway front, and its tails are shaped differently from an evening tailcoat.
An evening tailcoat has a sharp, horizontal cutaway front and longer, more slender tails, often described as a “swallow-tail”.
It is traditionally made from black or midnight blue fabric.
Q. Does “formal attire” mean the same as White Tie?
The term “formal attire” can be ambiguous.
Historically, “formal evening attire” always meant White Tie, and “formal day attire” always meant morning dress.
Nowadays, Black Tie is also considered “formal attire” for evening events, though it is less formal than White Tie.
In very casual contexts, some people might use “formal attire” to mean simply “dressing up” in a regular suit, so it’s important to understand the context or specific dress code mentioned on an invitation.
Q. What distinguishes a day waistcoat from a formal evening waistcoat for White Tie?
A day waistcoat typically covers most of the midsection, has a relatively high buttoning point, and has a full back.
A formal evening waistcoat for White Tie has a much lower V or U-shaped opening, exposing considerably more of the shirt front.
Its hem is also cut somewhat higher to align with the tailcoat fronts, and it is usually backless to aid air circulation and reduce bulk under the close-fitting tailcoat.
Q. What makes a shirt a formal evening shirt for White Tie?
A formal evening shirt for White Tie must be white, typically made from cotton or linen in a broadcloth or voile weave.
It is designed to take a detachable wing collar, which is heavily starched.
It has a stiff bib front, usually made of marcella piqué, also heavily starched.
The cuffs are single-layered, starched, and fastened with cufflinks (not buttons).
The shirt front is closed with decorative studs instead of buttons.
Q. What does “full fig” mean in relation to White Tie?
“Full fig” is an idiomatic expression indicating that one is fully and correctly dressed in a smart and proper manner for a particular occasion.
Its origin is uncertain; one suggestion is that “fig” is short for “figure”.
The term “full fig,” along with “full dress,” is sometimes used for white tie because it is the most formal evening dress code.
Q. When is the White Tie dress code typically employed today?
The White Tie dress code is extremely rare in the modern world.
It is most often associated with events of the highest pomp and dignity.
These include state banquets, some royal and diplomatic evening receptions, the Nobel Prize ceremony and banquet in Stockholm, and very traditional balls such as the Vienna Opera Ball.
A few very formal dinners, such as the Alfred E. Smith Memorial Foundation Dinner in New York, are also traditionally white tie; always follow the invitation.