Mastering the Roaring Twenties – A Gentleman’s Guide to 1920s Style
Forget what you think you know about the 1920s. While the flappers were making waves with their scandalous hemlines, the gentlemen of the decade were quietly staging their own sartorial revolution.
This wasn’t just an era of extravagance; it was the dawn of the modern man’s wardrobe, a move away from the rigid formality of the Edwardian age toward a new, relaxed, and confident silhouette.
The ‘Roaring Twenties’ defined dapper for a new generation. From the halls of Ivy League universities to the smoky backrooms of speakeasies, men’s style became bolder, looser, and infinitely more expressive.
Whether you’re channelling the aspirational glamour of Jay Gatsby or the sharp edge of a Peaky Blinder, these are the essential looks that forged the decade’s timeless legacy.
1. The Three-Piece Suit – a 20s Cornerstone
The quintessential look for any man of standing in the 1920s was the three-piece suit. But this wasn’t the slim-fit uniform of today.
The 20s silhouette was about a comfortable, commanding presence.
- The Jacket
Lapels grew wider, both in peak and notch styles, signalling a new confidence. The shoulders were natural, not heavily padded, and the jacket was often single-breasted with a higher button stance. - The Waistcoat (Vest)
A non-negotiable element, the waistcoat was the anchor of the ensemble, often cut high to create a clean, unbroken line from the high-waisted trousers. - The Trousers
Trousers were cut with a much higher rise and a straight, often generous, leg. A sharp pleat down the front was essential, and belt loops were just beginning to replace suspender buttons as the norm. Fabrics like heavy wool, flannel, and tweed in pinstripes, checks, and solid earth tones dominated.
2. Plus-Fours & Fair Isle Knits for a Sporting Look
For a day in the country or a round of golf, the uniform was the “Plus-Four.”
These baggy trousers extended four inches below the knee (hence the name), offering far more freedom of movement than the older, tighter knickers.
The look was perfected by the era’s biggest style icon, the Prince of Wales, who paired his Plus-Fours with high, patterned argyle socks, a crisp button-down shirt, and most importantly, a Fair Isle or V-neck tennis sweater.
This combination of textures and patterns defined the sophisticated, athletic style of the upper class.
3. Oxford & Brogue Shoes
Footwear became a key indicator of style. The classic leather Oxford was a staple for business and formal occasions. However, the decade saw the rise of more decorative styles.
The two-tone “Spectator” shoe (often in black-and-white or brown-and-white) became wildly popular, associated with jazz musicians, gangsters, and dapper men who weren’t afraid to make a statement.
Wingtip Oxfords, with their decorative perforations (broguing), were the perfect middle ground, suitable for both city suits and countryside tweeds.
4. Oxford Bags – The Collegiate Rebel
Born from a student protest at Oxford University—where knickerbockers were banned from lectures—Oxford Bags were the era’s boldest statement in casual wear.
These were wide-leg trousers, with some reaching an audacious 22 inches or more at the cuff.
Made from flannel and other lightweight fabrics, they were the epitome of Ivy League cool. Paired with a chunky knit sweater, a soft-collared shirt, and perhaps a tweed sport coat, this look screamed youthful rebellion and became a staple for the fashion-forward aristocrat and the aspiring student alike.
5. The Right Hat for a Finishing Touch
A gentleman would never be seen outdoors without a hat. It was the definitive punctuation mark on any outfit. While the working class favoured the soft, eight-panel “Newsboy” cap, the more refined man had options:
- The Fedora
This became the dominant city hat, crafted from felt with its characteristic creased crown and flexible brim. - The Homburg
More formal than a Fedora, with a single sharp crease and a stiff, upturned brim. This was the hat of choice for businessmen and politicians. - The Straw Boater
In the summer months, the flat-topped, stiff straw boater was essential for picnics, sporting events, and leisurely strolls.
6. Power & Panache for a Gangster Edge
Popularised by figures like Al Capone, the “gangster” look was simply an exaggerated, more flamboyant version of mainstream fashion.
It was about projecting power – think bolder pinstripes on dark, double-breasted suits, contrasting two-tone shoes, a silk tie with a flashy pin, and a Fedora tilted at a confident angle. It wasn’t a different wardrobe, but a different attitude.
FAQs for the Modern Gentleman
What’s the easiest way to get a 1920s look for a party?
Focus on the silhouette and key accessories. Start with a three-piece suit if you have one.
If not, a regular suit with a waistcoat is a must. Add a pocket square, a classic tie or bow tie, and find a vintage-style Fedora or Newsboy cap.
The hat is what truly sells the look. Don’t worry about getting every detail perfect; it’s the combination of suit, waistcoat, and hat that creates the immediate 1920s impression.
What did men wear in the 1920s for formal events?
For the most formal occasions, the tailcoat was still in use. However, the 1920s cemented the tuxedo as the go-to for evening wear.
The 1920s tuxedo featured peak or shawl lapels, often in silk or satin, a single-button closure, and was worn with a black bow tie, a formal shirt, and patent leather shoes. This is the definitive “Great Gatsby” party look.
How was men’s fashion different in the 1920s?
The key difference was the move from constriction to comfort. The stiff, formal suits of the pre-war era were replaced by looser, more naturally fitting garments.
Detachable starched collars gave way to softer, attached collars. It was the birth of “smart casual” and a focus on expressing individual style, whether that meant the sporty look of a golfer or the sharp tailoring of a city financier.
Key Takeaways for Today’s Man
The 20s weren’t about dressing in costume; it was about the principles of timeless style. It taught us the power of a well-cut suit, the importance of quality accessories, and the confidence that comes from dressing with intention.
From the wide-leg trousers to the Fair Isle knit, the echoes of this revolutionary decade are still visible in menswear today. The Roaring Twenties proved that for a gentleman, style is eternal.
After years of managing hundreds of fashion brands from London's office of a global retailer, Mandy has ventured into freelancing. Connected with several fashion retailers and media platforms in the US, Australia, and the UK, Mandy uses her expertise to consult for emerging fashion brands create top-notch content as an editorial strategist for several online publications.
Caroline Evans is a professor emeritus of fashion history and theory at Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design, a constituent college of the University of the Arts London, and a visiting professor at the Centre for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University. Caroline specializes in the history of 20th-century fashion and has written about the rise of streetwear in the 1980s and the trend's influence on contemporary fashion.
Konstantina Antoniadou is a seasoned writer focused on "green" innovation and sustainable technologies in the fashion industry. With almost ten years of expertise in media and publishing, Konstantina's articles have been published by leading digital fashion magazines in various languages, such as The VOU, Estro, Rewind Vintage Affairs, IndieGetUp, SustainablyKindLiving, and more.
I love 1920-1940s movies, and it is a shame we don’t have much color from those times to admire their fashion taste and style. Great article, looking for more styles, please
Brilliant article!! I really fancied all the ideas and love the 1920s look! I have a bob that I finger wave at times for fun when I dress in 1920s clothing that I collect.
Cheers!
I love the 1920-1930s movies or tv shows! The fashion is to die for, and the powerful music of sexy, lazy, and powerful jazz. Also great article, it was very informative.
Silk, LBD are my all times favs! They are timeless indeed!
Silk and LBD are my favs! Indeed they are timeless!