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What’s This About:
John Lobb is two shoe businesses, a family-owned bespoke workshop in London and a Hermès-owned ready-to-wear company in Paris, and dated records link it to the King, through its Royal Warrant as bootmaker, and to the photographer Samuel Fosso.
This guide explains the two businesses and how to wear the classic shoe styles they are known for, such as:
– A black Oxford with a charcoal or navy suit
– Double monk straps with grey flannel
– A slim leather ankle boot with tailoring or jeans
– Leather loafers with a knitted polo shirt
– Patent Oxfords for black tie
and many more!
Match the shoe’s formality to the outfit, whichever John Lobb business made it.
Key Points:
01John Lobb began as a bootmaker in 1849 and opened a London shop in 1866.
02The London business makes bespoke shoes; John Lobb Paris, owned by Hermès since 1976, sells ready-to-wear.
03Match the shoe’s formality to the outfit: Oxfords for suits, loafers and Derbies for casual wear.
04Price alone does not prove quality, so check leather, stitching and fit.
John Lobb is a name shared by two separate shoe businesses, and knowing which is which helps you understand what you are buying.
John Lobb began as a bootmaker in 1849 and opened a shop in London in 1866.
The London business, John Lobb Ltd at 9 St James’s Street, is still family-owned and makes bespoke shoes and boots, cut and made for one customer’s feet.
A Paris branch, opened in the early 1900s, was bought by Hermès in 1976 and has sold ready-to-wear shoes under the name John Lobb since 1982.
John Lobb shoes sold in shops are from the Paris company’s ready-to-wear range, while the London workshop makes bespoke shoes to order.
This guide sets out the documented wearers, then shows how to wear the classic shoe styles both companies are known for.
Documented Wearers
The Royal Household
John Lobb Ltd holds a Royal Warrant as bootmaker to HM The King, according to the Royal Warrant Holders Association.
A warrant shows that the firm supplies the royal household; it does not record which shoes the King wears on a given day.
Samuel Fosso
In his 2021 self-portrait series Autoportraits II (Fosso Fashion 2021), published by A Magazine Curated By Grace Wales Bonner on 15 November 2021, the photographer Samuel Fosso wears John Lobb lace-up shoes.
In one portrait the credits pair them with a Wales Bonner single-breasted wool jacket, a Wales Bonner knit and black wool trousers by Valentino; in another, with a Wales Bonner desert trench coat and Valentino trousers.
Wear: a single-breasted wool jacket, a fine knit, black wool trousers and black lace-up shoes, with a light trench coat over the top in spring.
A Note on Celebrity Brand Claims
Celebrity shoes are often credited to a maker online without any confirmation from the maker, the wearer or a stylist.
We name a wearer only when a dated report or the maker confirms it.
Well-made classic shoes look right when their formality matches the rest of the outfit.
1. The Black Oxford With a Suit
A plain black Oxford, with closed lacing and a smooth toe or a simple toe cap, is the most formal everyday shoe and suits business suits, interviews and funerals.
Wear: a charcoal or navy wool suit, a white shirt, a dark silk tie and black calf leather Oxfords, with a navy overcoat in winter.
2. The Double Monk Strap
A double monk shoe closes with two buckles instead of laces, and it sits between an Oxford and a loafer in formality.
Wear: a grey flannel suit or a navy blazer with grey trousers, a light blue shirt, a knitted tie and dark brown double monk shoes.
3. The Single Monk Strap
A single monk shoe closes with one buckle strap instead of laces, which makes it a little more relaxed than an Oxford.
Wear: an unstructured navy jacket, a white or blue Oxford shirt, grey or stone trousers and brown calf leather single monk shoes.
4. The Ankle Boot
A slim leather ankle boot, with elastic sides or a concealed zip, works with tailoring and with jeans.
Wear: a dark suit or a navy jumper over a white shirt, slim dark trousers or jeans that end just over the boot, and black or dark brown leather ankle boots.
5. The Loafer
A leather penny loafer is the easiest way to wear a classic shoe with casual clothes.
Wear: a navy or grey knitted polo shirt, cream or grey trousers, and brown or burgundy leather loafers, with an unstructured jacket when needed.
6. The Patent Oxford for Black Tie
Black patent leather or highly polished calf Oxfords are the classic shoe for a dinner suit.
Wear: a black or midnight navy dinner suit, a white dress shirt, a black silk bow tie and black patent Oxfords.
Bespoke or Ready-to-Wear?
Bespoke shoes are made on a last shaped for one person’s feet, which takes several fittings and a long wait.
Ready-to-wear shoes are made in standard sizes and widths, so try several sizes and walk in them before buying.
Whichever you choose, check the leather, the stitching and how the shoe fits across the ball of your foot, because price alone does not prove quality.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. Is John Lobb owned by Hermès?
John Lobb Paris, which makes the ready-to-wear range, has been owned by Hermès since 1976; the London bespoke business, John Lobb Ltd, is separate and family-owned.
Q. Are John Lobb shoes worth the price?
That depends on how often you will wear them, how well they fit and how you care for them; compare construction and fit with other makers at different prices before you decide.
Q. How should I look after leather shoes?
Use cedar shoe trees, rest each pair for a day between wears, polish regularly and have the soles repaired before they wear through.
Q. Which John Lobb style should I buy first?
A black or dark brown Oxford covers the widest range of occasions, and a brown loafer or Derby covers most casual ones.
Styling Beyond John Lobb Footwear
Knowing how a brand is worn is a useful start, but your own wardrobe works best when it suits your build, your colouring and your plans.
For other makers in a similar price range, see our list of luxury brands favoured by very wealthy buyers.
Our guide to styling by occasion, location, season and time of day explains how to adapt outfits to each setting.
Further reading: dressing for your body type, seasonal colour palettes, garments, accessories and the old money style guide.
1. Check Your Body Shape
Start with our free body shape quiz for men.
2. Find Your Seasonal Colours
Then take our free seasonal colour quiz for men.
3. Take the Fashion Style Quiz
Then take our free fashion style quiz for men, and read more about personal fashion style.
Personal Help From The VOU
Our styling services for men are paid consultations; the shop page lists what each one includes.
You can read about The VOU’s image consultants and stylists before you book.
To ask a question first, contact us.
Mandy Meyer’s focus at The VOU is men’s body-shape styling, garment fit and outfit proportions. Her coverage addresses the practical questions behind a wardrobe choice: how a jacket sits across the shoulders, how trousers fall and how different cuts change the silhouette a wearer wants to create.
Her subject areas include the triangle, inverted triangle, rectangle, oval, trapezoid, hourglass and diamond labels used in body-shape styling. These provide starting references for comparing visible proportions; they do not capture every body or prescribe one correct way to dress. The focus connects those observations with garment shape, construction, length and the relationship between the upper and lower parts of an outfit.
Mandy’s editorial coverage combines visual comparisons with fit checks for comfort and movement. Readers can consider whether a cut gives them the room they need, where clothing pulls or gathers and which changes might support their preferred look. The aim is to make menswear choices more understandable while keeping personal preferences and the wearer’s own styling goals central.