For generations, the British shoemaker, John Lobb, has been synonymous with unparalleled craftsmanship and understated elegance.
However, with prices that can easily surpass the £5,000 mark for a pair of bespoke shoes, one must ask: are John Lobb shoes truly worth their princely sum?
Let’s delve into the world of these coveted creations to determine if they merit a place in the discerning gentleman’s wardrobe.
The Legacy of John Lobb
The John Lobb story begins in 1849 when a young Cornish farmhand made his way to London with dreams of becoming a bootmaker.
Turned away initially, John Lobb embarked on a journey to Australia during the gold rush.
It was here that he honed his craft and gained fame for his ‘hollow heel’ boots, which allowed miners to smuggle gold nuggets.
Returning to London in 1866, Lobb established his first shop in Regent Street, followed by another in St. James’s Street in 1880.
His reputation for excellence soon caught the attention of the royal family, earning him a Royal Warrant in 1863 from the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII.
This royal seal of approval cemented John Lobb’s status as the bootmaker of choice for the aristocracy and discerning gentlemen alike.
Decoding the John Lobb Brand
Before we proceed further, it’s crucial to understand the distinction between the two entities that bear the John Lobb name.
In 1976, the Hermès group acquired the rights to the John Lobb name for ready-to-wear shoes, establishing John Lobb Paris.
Meanwhile, the original bespoke workshop in London, known as John Lobb St. James or John Lobb London, remained independent and continues to operate as a separate entity.
This bifurcation has led to some confusion in the marketplace.
John Lobb Paris produces high-end ready-to-wear shoes, while John Lobb London focuses exclusively on bespoke creations.
For the purposes of this article, we’ll examine both, as they represent different facets of the John Lobb legacy and offer distinct value propositions.
John Lobb’s Craftsmanship
Ready-to-Wear (RTW) Shoes
John Lobb Paris RTW shoes, while not bespoke, are still a paragon of shoemaking excellence.
These shoes are Goodyear welted, a construction method prized for its durability and ease of resoling.
The uppers are crafted from high-quality calf leather, sourced from the finest tanneries in Europe.
Upon closer inspection, one finds a level of detail that justifies the four-figure price tag.
The sole stitching, for instance, is done using the ‘closed channel’ method, where the stitching is hidden beneath a flap of leather, resulting in a cleaner appearance.
The heel stack is built up gradually using layers of high-quality leather, providing both durability and elegance.
However, it’s worth noting that some components, such as the heel counter and toe puff, are made from thermoplastic materials rather than leather.
While this is common practice even among luxury shoemakers, it disappoint purists who expect all-leather construction at this price point.
Bespoke Creations
John Lobb London’s bespoke offerings represent the pinnacle of shoemaking craft.
Each pair is meticulously handcrafted to the client’s exact specifications and foot measurements.
The process involves creating a unique last for each client, ensuring a perfect fit that accommodates even the slightest asymmetries between feet.
The construction of these bespoke masterpieces is a testament to traditional craftsmanship.
Unlike their RTW counterparts, bespoke John Lobb shoes are hand-welted, a labour-intensive process that allows for a closer cut waist and potentially greater longevity.
Every component, from the toe cap to the heel counter, is made from the highest quality leather, shaped and moulded by skilled artisans.
One particularly noteworthy aspect of John Lobb bespoke shoes is the absence of a metal shank.
Instead, the arch support is built up using carefully layered leather, resulting in a more organic, flexible structure that moulds to the wearer’s foot over time.
The Price of Prestige
The cost of John Lobb shoes can be eye-watering, even for those accustomed to luxury goods.
Ready-to-wear models from John Lobb Paris typically start around £1,000 and can exceed £1,500 for more complex styles.
Bespoke creations from John Lobb London, however, enter a different stratosphere entirely, with prices starting at around £5,700 and potentially reaching five figures for exotic leathers or complex designs.
These prices reflect not only the quality of materials and craftsmanship but also the brand’s storied heritage and exclusivity.
When one purchases a pair of John Lobb shoes, they’re not merely buying footwear; they’re investing in a piece of sartorial history.
John Lobb’s Fit Factor
One of the primary arguments for investing in bespoke shoes is the promise of a perfect fit.
John Lobb London’s bespoke service is renowned for its ability to accommodate even the most challenging feet, creating shoes that fit like a second skin.
However, it’s worth noting that John Lobb Paris’s ready-to-wear offerings are also known for their excellent fit.
The brand offers a range of lasts to suit different foot shapes, and many find that with the right size and last, the fit can be remarkably good.
That said, for those with particularly difficult-to-fit feet or those who simply demand the utmost in comfort and fit, the bespoke route indeed worth the considerable extra expense.
Aesthetic Considerations
John Lobb shoes, both ready-to-wear and bespoke, are characterised by their understated elegance.
The designs tend towards the classic and conservative, with clean lines and minimal ornamentation.
This aesthetic aligns perfectly with the ‘old money’ look favoured by many of the brand’s clientele.
However, this conservative approach do not appeal to all. Some find John Lobb designs, particularly from the London bespoke workshop, to be somewhat staid or lacking in personality.
For those seeking more contemporary or fashion-forward designs, other luxury shoemakers offer more appealing options.
It’s worth noting that John Lobb Paris has made efforts in recent years to introduce more modern designs, including sneakers, to appeal to a younger clientele.
However, the brand’s strength remains in its classic, timeless styles.
Do John Lobb Shoes Stand the Test of Time?
When considering the purchase of John Lobb shoes, particularly the bespoke offerings, it’s worth thinking of them as an investment.
These shoes are built to last, with many owners reporting decades of use with proper care and occasional resoling.
The quality of materials and construction means that John Lobb shoes age beautifully, developing a rich patina over time that enhances their appeal.
Moreover, the classic styling ensures they remain relevant regardless of passing fashion trends.
However, it’s important to note that unlike some luxury goods, shoes generally do not appreciate in value.
The investment here is in long-term use and enjoyment rather than financial return.
John Lobb vs. Other Luxury Shoemakers
While John Lobb shoes are undoubtedly of exceptional quality, it’s worth considering how they stack up against other high-end shoemakers.
Brands like Gaziano & Girling, Edward Green, and Crockett & Jones Handgrade offer similar levels of craftsmanship at lower price points, particularly in the ready-to-wear market.
For instance, Gaziano & Girling shoes, which are renowned for their sleek lasts and impeccable finishing, typically retail for £1,000 to £1,500.
The shoes feature hand-welted construction and bespoke-inspired details like bevelled waists, offering a level of refinement that rivals John Lobb Paris at a more palatable price point.
In the bespoke realm, while John Lobb London’s offering is undoubtedly superlative, other bespoke makers like Foster & Son or Cleverley produce shoes of comparable quality, at lower prices.
The choice comes down to personal preference in terms of house style and the cachet associated with the John Lobb name.
Are John Lobb Shoes Worth It? – The Verdict
For the gentleman who values traditional craftsmanship, appreciates subtle luxury, and has the means to indulge, John Lobb shoes worth the investment.
The quality is undeniable, the heritage unparalleled, and the prestige associated with the name is significant.
However, for those seeking the best value for money, there are arguably better options available.
Brands like Gaziano & Girling or Edward Green offer similar quality at lower price points in the ready-to-wear market.
In the bespoke world, lesser-known but equally skilled shoemakers can provide comparable quality for less.
Ultimately, the worth of John Lobb shoes is as much about personal values and circumstances as it is about objective quality.
If owning a piece of shoemaking history and wearing some of the finest shoes money can buy aligns with your personal style and financial situation, then John Lobb shoes worth it for you.
Tips for Purchasing and Caring for John Lobb Shoes
If you’ve decided to invest in a pair of John Lobb shoes, here are some tips to ensure you get the most out of your purchase:
- For ready-to-wear shoes, visit a John Lobb store or authorised retailer to be properly fitted. The right size and last can make a significant difference in comfort and longevity.
- If opting for bespoke, be prepared for a lengthy process. Creating a pair of bespoke John Lobb shoes can take several months and multiple fittings.
- Invest in high-quality shoe trees. John Lobb offers bespoke shoe trees, but even a good pair of generic cedar trees can help maintain the shape of your shoes.
- Rotate your shoes. Even shoes of this quality benefit from a day of rest between wears.
- Learn proper shoe care techniques or entrust your shoes to a skilled cobbler. Regular polishing, conditioning, and resoling when necessary will ensure your John Lobb shoes last for decades.