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What’s This About
The hourglass body shape describes shoulders and hips that look broadly balanced, with a visibly more defined waist between them, and you can dress it to follow that waist or to play it down.
This guide sets out both approaches side by side, such as:
how the hourglass description compares with the other six shapes
belts, rises and jackets that mark the waist, or straighter cuts that do not
fabrics and layering for each approach
paired outfit ideas by occasion and season
a do and don’t table written as choices rather than bans
and many more!
Neither approach is more correct; choose the one you like wearing.
Key Points
01Hourglass describes how the outline reads; it does not require a set centimetre difference, matching chest and hip measurements, or any particular muscularity.
02To follow the waist, shaped jackets, belts and higher rises are the usual tools; to play it down, straighter cuts and structured layers.
03Waist shaping should never become compression you cannot sit or move in.
04Rise labels vary between makers, so check where a waistband actually sits on you.
The male hourglass body shape describes shoulders and hips that look broadly balanced, with a visibly more defined waist between them.
It is a description of the outline, not a measurement.
It does not require your chest and hip measurements to match, a particular difference between waist and hips, or any particular build.
Its neighbour is the rectangle, where the waist comes in less; if you sit between the two, read both guides.
If you would like to compare your proportions first, our body shape quiz is optional; everything here works without it.
Men with an hourglass outline have two broad styling approaches, and both are legitimate:
- Follow the waist: clothes that show the defined waist.
- Straighten the line: clothes that skim the waist for a more angular or straight outline.
Once you have the fit right, our guide to dressing for any occasion or season covers what to wear where.
Hourglass Body Shape Specifics
The table compares the hourglass description with the other six names The VOU uses.
Each row describes how the outline reads from the front, not a measurement, and no row is a threshold.
Scroll horizontally to see all columns →
| What you are comparing | Hourglass | Rectangle | Trapezoid (Rhomboid) | Inverted Triangle | Triangle (Pear) | Oval (Apple) | Diamond |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Outline seen from the front | Shoulders and hips look broadly balanced, with a visibly more defined waist | Little visible taper through shoulders, torso and hips | Shoulders look a little wider than the hips, with a gentle taper | Shoulders and upper torso look noticeably broader than the hips | The lower torso and hip outline looks broader than the shoulders | A rounded fuller middle, with the fullness spread fairly generally through the torso | The middle stands out more distinctly between a comparatively narrower upper and lower torso |
| Fit point to check first | Waist shaping that does not compress | How much waist shaping you want | Jacket waist and trouser seat | Shirt waist once the chest fits | Seat and thigh room in trousers | Waistband comfort and shirt fastening, standing and seated | Shirt and jacket fastened over the fullest part of the abdomen |
| Optional styling aim | Follow the waist or play it down | Add shape, or keep the line straight | Show as much of the taper as you like | Soften the contrast, or emphasise it | Add presence above the waist | Room and a continuous line through the middle | More presence at the shoulder, a clean line through the middle |
A Note on Celebrity Examples
Named examples for this shape are collected in The VOU’s separate celebrity article, 10 Celebrities with Hourglass Body Shapes.
The ideas below are illustrated with garments.
Hourglass Body Shape Styling Principles
The table sets the two approaches side by side.
The cells describe what each choice is meant to do, which is worth checking in a mirror.
Scroll horizontally to see all columns →
| Principle | Follow the Waist | Straighten the Line |
|---|---|---|
| Waist | Belts, higher-rise trousers and shaped jackets mark the waist. | Straight-cut garments skim the waist without cinching. |
| Shoulders | Subtle shoulder padding keeps the shoulder line natural. | Structured jackets with strong shoulder lines give a more angular top half. |
| Trouser Cut | Tapered or slim trousers follow the line from hip to ankle. | Straight-leg or slightly wide-leg trousers give a more uniform line. |
| Fabric Choice | Softer, draping fabrics follow the body. | Stiffer fabrics hold their own shape and give cleaner lines. |
| Layering | Fitted layers follow the outline. | Structured layers build a straighter outline. |
Key Styling Tips for Hourglass Body Shapes
The tips below cover both approaches; pick the one you prefer, or mix them across different outfits.
Mark or Skim the Waist
A medium-width belt in a contrasting colour marks the waist.
Higher-rise trousers and jeans put the waistband nearer the narrowest part of you; check where a particular pair actually sits, standing and seated.
For a straighter look, a straight-cut casual shirt worn untucked gives a continuous line from shoulders to hips, and a jacket with less waist shaping reduces waist definition.
For business and formal dress, a tucked shirt with a straighter jacket does the same job within the dress code.
Shoulder Styling
Garments with subtle padding or structured seams keep the shoulder line crisp.
Crew-neck T-shirts and jumpers follow the natural shoulder.
If you want a more angular top half, select blazers and jackets with strong, squared shoulder lines; our trapezoid and Light Spring styling guide shows how that kind of outline is dressed in a particular colour palette.
Stronger shoulders tend to give the upper body more width and move attention away from the waist.
Trouser Selection
To follow the outline, tapered or slim trousers follow the line from hip to ankle.
For a straighter silhouette, straight-leg or slightly wide-leg trousers give a more uniform line from hip to ankle.
Fabric Choices
Softer fabrics like jersey, fine knits and lightweight wool drape and follow the body.
For a more structured look, heavier cotton, denim and structured wool hold their own shape and give cleaner, more angular lines.
Layering
To follow the outline, layer fitted garments: a close undershirt beneath a slightly looser button-up, topped with a tailored jacket.
For a straighter look, a boxy overshirt or unstructured blazer over a straight-cut shirt adds volume through the torso and reduces waist definition.
Hourglass Body Shape Wardrobe Essentials
These essentials work for either approach; the columns show how.
Scroll horizontally to see all columns →
| Category | Essentials | To Follow the Waist | To Straighten the Line |
|---|---|---|---|
| Outerwear | Tailored blazers, bomber jackets, trench coats | Shaped styles with waist definition | Boxier cuts and structured shoulders |
| Tops | V-neck T-shirts, button-downs, knit jumpers | Close-fitting options that show the waist | Looser fits and untucked casual styles |
| Bottoms | Higher-rise trousers, straight-leg jeans, tailored shorts | Higher rise and tapered legs | Mid rise and straight or wide-leg cuts |
| Accessories | Belts, watches, scarves | Belts that mark the waist; shorter scarves | Fewer belts; longer, draped scarves |
| Footwear | Chelsea boots, brogues, loafers | Sleeker profiles, which keep the line light under a shaped outfit; a matter of taste | Chunkier styles, which balance the extra volume of looser layers; a matter of taste |
Hourglass Body Shape Outfit Ideas by Occasion
Each occasion has one outfit for each approach.
Business Outfit Idea
Following the Waist
Start with a slim light blue dress shirt tucked into higher-rise charcoal trousers.
Add a navy blazer with subtle waist suppression.
Finish with a brown leather belt, matching Oxford shoes and a silver tie with a subtle pattern.
Straightening the Line
Wear a white straight-cut dress shirt tucked into mid-rise, straight-leg navy trousers.
Layer it with a grey blazer with little waist suppression.
Finish with black Derby shoes and a textured dark grey tie.
Casual Outfit Idea
Following the Waist
Choose a fitted burgundy V-neck T-shirt with slim dark-wash jeans and a tan suede bomber jacket that comes in slightly at the waist.
Finish with brown Chelsea boots and a matching leather belt.
Straightening the Line
Choose a looser forest green crew-neck T-shirt with straight-leg khaki chinos and a relaxed denim jacket.
Finish with white trainers and few accessories.
Formal Outfit Idea
Following the Waist
Wear a black slim roll-neck tucked into higher-rise tailored trousers in deep burgundy.
Layer with a fitted, black velvet blazer, patent leather loafers, and a silver chain necklace if you like a vertical accent.
Straightening the Line
Wear an emerald green silk shirt tucked into straight-leg black trousers.
Add a structured black peak-lapel blazer and black leather Chelsea boots.
Dressing the Hourglass Body Shape by Season
Hourglass Body Shape Outfit Ideas for Spring
Following the Waist
Wear a fitted pastel pink cotton polo with slim beige chinos and a light grey, waist-length Harrington jacket.
Finish with brown suede loafers and a braided leather belt.
Straightening the Line
Wear a pale blue linen shirt open over a white crew-neck T-shirt with straight-leg khaki shorts that end just above the knee.
Add white canvas trainers.
Hourglass Body Shape Outfit Ideas for Summer
Following the Waist
Choose a fitted coral short-sleeve Henley with tailored navy shorts.
Add espadrilles and a woven leather belt.
Straightening the Line
Choose a boxy Cuban-collar shirt in a bold print worn open over a plain white T-shirt, with relaxed linen trousers in a neutral tone.
Finish with leather sandals.
Hourglass Body Shape Outfit Ideas for Autumn
Following the Waist
Wear a fitted burgundy roll-neck under a tan suede jacket with a defined waist, slim dark wash jeans and brown Chelsea boots.
Add a patterned scarf.
Straightening the Line
Wear a relaxed olive cable-knit jumper over a white Oxford shirt with relaxed deep brown corduroy trousers.
Finish with sturdy brogues in a matching shade.
Hourglass Body Shape Outfit Ideas for Winter
Following the Waist
Wear a charcoal slim roll-neck under a double-breasted navy wool coat, with a black belt, grey flannel trousers and black leather ankle boots.
Straightening the Line
Wear a relaxed cream cable-knit jumper over a straight-cut shirt with straight-leg dark grey wool trousers.
Top it with a structured single-breasted camel overcoat and chunky-soled Derby shoes.
Hourglass Body Shape Do’s and Don’ts
Scroll horizontally to see all columns →
| Do | Don’t |
|---|---|
| Choose fabrics that drape or hold their shape, depending on the approach you prefer. | Wear clothes so clingy or so baggy that you cannot move comfortably or they bunch unintentionally. |
| Try V-necks and open collars when following the waist. | Assume boat necks or wide collars keep the top half quiet; they add width at the shoulder, which suits the straighter approach instead. |
| Try different trouser rises to see where each waistband sits on you. | Overlook fit at the shoulder and hip, whatever approach you choose. |
| Use tailoring to adjust ready-to-wear clothes to fit you. | Follow a trend that does not suit your taste just because it is current. |
| Choose tops and bottoms that work together. | Put horizontal stripes across the waist by accident; they draw the eye there, which suits only the first approach. |
Dressing an hourglass outline comes down to one choice, follow the waist or straighten the line, with fit checked in either case.
Experiment with both, keep what works on you, and feel free to break any of these suggestions in favour of your own taste.
All 7 Male Body Shapes and Their Attributes
In the 1940s, the American psychologist William Sheldon popularised a somatotype classification with three types: ectomorph, mesomorph and endomorph.
Somatotypes describe overall build, while styling vocabulary describes the outline and proportions that clothes have to fit.
The VOU uses the following seven body shapes.
Triangle, Inverted Triangle, Rectangle, Trapezoid and Hourglass follow familiar styling usage; Oval and Diamond are described in The VOU’s own words.
- Hourglass Body Shape, the subject of this guide, also known as X-Shape, Figure 8 or Wasp. Shoulders and hips look broadly balanced, with a visibly more defined waist between them.
- Trapezoid Body Shape, also known as Rhomboid or Regular. Shoulders look a little wider than the hips, with a gentle taper.
- Triangle Body Shape, also known as Pear Shape, Bell, A-Shape or Spoon. The lower torso and hip outline looks broader than the shoulders.
- Inverted Triangle Body Shape, also known as V-shape or Wedge. The shoulder and upper-torso outline looks noticeably broader than the hips.
- Rectangle Body Shape, also known as Straight Shape, Banana, Column or H-Shape. Little visible taper through the shoulders, torso and hips.
- Oval Body Shape, also known as Apple Shape, Round, O-Shape or Circular. In this guide, a rounded fuller-middle outline, with the fullness spread fairly generally through the torso.
- Diamond Body Shape, also known as Spade, Teardrop or Wedge Reversed. In this guide, an outline whose middle stands out more distinctly between a comparatively narrower upper and lower torso.
Style Like a True Gentleman
Before we say goodbye, fit does most of the work, whether or not you ever work with image consultants.
Professional styling starts with getting the fit right and choosing clothes that suit the occasion; knowing your body shape and seasonal colour palette can make the choosing quicker.
Our guides also cover styling by occasion, location, season and time of day, garments, footwear, accessories and heritage fashion brands.
Take our three quizzes, then book a consultation if you would like personal help:
1. Find Your Body Shape
Different garments suit different silhouettes.
To compare your outline with the seven body shape descriptions, take our body shape quiz for men.
2. Find Your Seasonal Colours
The garments in your outfits come in many colours.
To see which seasonal colour palette may suit you, take our seasonal colour quiz for men.
3. Find Your Fashion Style
To explore your personal fashion style, take our fashion style quiz for men; it suggests styles, outfit ideas and brands to explore.
Book a Consultation with The VOU
For personal help, you can book paid consultations with our image consultants and fashion stylists.
Our styling services for men page lists the paid consultations.
Wearing luxury brands is not enough on its own; how your clothes fit and suit the occasion matters more, and our personal style guide covers the rest.
For more on labels, see our guide to logo-heavy luxury brands and how to wear them.
Contact us if you would like to book a consultation.