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What’s This About
This guide helps a man who uses the Hourglass body shape description and the True/Warm Autumn colour palette choose garments, colours and outfits that fit him and suit him.
It covers practical choices for an Hourglass outline in warm, rich Autumn colours, such as
what Hourglass means among The VOU’s seven body shape descriptions
fit checks for jackets, shirts and trousers when the waist is visibly more defined
shoes and accessories in True Autumn colours
outfit ideas for each season
and many more!
Fit comes first; body shape and colour then help you choose between garments that already fit.
Key Points
01In this guide, Hourglass describes shoulders and hips that appear broadly balanced, with a visibly more defined waist between them; it is a styling description, not a measurement rule.
02Jackets and shirts with some waist shaping follow a defined waist; straighter cuts are also fine if you prefer a less fitted line.
03Trousers often need to fit the seat and thigh first and then be taken in at the waist; side adjusters can help.
04The True Autumn colours here are the warm, rich earth tones in the palette table.
This guide is for men who use the Hourglass body shape description and find that True Autumn colours suit them.
True Autumn colours are warm and fairly rich, sitting between the softer Soft Autumn and the deeper Dark Autumn palettes; guides describe them as earthy tones with golden undertones.
The combination gives you two sets of choices, one about how closely your garments follow a defined waist, and one about how to use True Autumn’s warmth across your outfits.
For jackets in particular, our guide to blazer styles for your body type compares the options for each outline, and our three colour rule guide helps you combine colours within an outfit.
If you are unsure of your body shape or your seasonal colour palette, you can take our quizzes.
Your Quick Styling Guide
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| Category | Often Chosen | Worth Reconsidering |
|---|---|---|
| Silhouette | Jackets with light waist shaping Natural or lightly padded shoulders Shirts with back darts or a tapered body Trousers that fit the seat and thigh, taken in at the waist Side adjusters or braces |
Jackets bought for the shoulders that hang loose at the waist Trousers that gape at the back of the waistband Very boxy cuts, if you want to show the waist Choosing by shape label before fit |
| Colours | Bronze brown Cognac Russet Golden olive Terracotta |
Muted earth tones Cool browns Soft autumn shades Dark autumn depths Spring-influenced warmth |
| Fit details | Waist suppression in jackets Sleeve pitch set to how your arms hang Higher armholes for movement Seam allowances that allow later adjustment |
Waists that pull or crease when buttoned Sleeves that twist at the elbow Armholes so low the jacket lifts when you raise your arms |
Body Shape Characteristics
The VOU uses seven body shape descriptions, which are Triangle, Inverted Triangle, Rectangle, Trapezoid, Hourglass, Oval and Diamond.
Triangle, Inverted Triangle, Rectangle, Trapezoid and Hourglass follow familiar styling usage; Oval and Diamond are described in The VOU’s own words.
In this guide, Hourglass describes shoulders and hips that appear broadly balanced, with a visibly more defined waist between them.
It is a styling description. It does not require a set difference in centimetres, a particular level of muscle or any body measurement to match another exactly, and posture, clothing and viewing angle can all change how the outline looks.
Because the waist is narrower than both the chest and the seat, garments sized for your shoulders or hips often have spare cloth at the waist.
Most fitting work for this outline is therefore about the waist, which means taking in jackets and shirts and choosing trousers that fit the seat without gaping at the back.
Our guides to Soft Autumn alternatives to baby pink and Deep/Dark Autumn wardrobe essentials cover the neighbouring palettes; True Autumn’s warm colours can be spread across a whole outfit.
You can place True Autumn colours on any garment; colour does not change the outline, but it does change where the eye goes first.
Your True Autumn Colours
Treat a seasonal label as a styling convention rather than a measurement.
True Autumn guides describe these colours as warm and fairly rich; compare them near your face in daylight.
With that mix of warmth and medium depth, the palette offers colours for suits, shirts and accessories alike.
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| Colour Category | Specific Colours | Best Uses |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Focus | Bronze brown Cognac Russet Golden olive |
Suits, shirts and trousers |
| Foundation Neutrals | Burnished gold Copper brown Rich camel Warm tobacco |
Base layers, knitwear and casual trousers |
| Statement Colours | Terracotta Forest green Warm teal Amber |
Ties, pocket squares, knitwear and statement jackets |
Your Wardrobe Essentials
Base Layers
Base layers should lie flat under a shirt and stay tucked when you move.
Undershirts
Cotton with a little stretch, if you like an undershirt that follows the body; check the label and choose what feels comfortable
Long enough to stay tucked when you raise your arms
In burnished gold and copper brown
For thermal layers, choose a light or medium merino wool in rich camel.
Shirts and Tops
Choose shirts for fit first. The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder, the chest should let you reach forward without the buttons pulling, and the body should not billow at the waist.
Collar
A collar height and point length that suit your neck and face
A soft, unfused collar if you like a relaxed roll; a fused collar if you prefer it crisp
Body
Back darts or a tapered side seam to follow a defined waist
Enough room across the chest and shoulders to move freely
Generous seam allowances if you expect to have the shirt adjusted later
Primary colours
Bronze brown for business
Cognac for smart casual
Russet for formal occasions
Trousers
Choose trousers for fit first, which means they should sit smoothly over the seat and thigh and close at the waist without gaping at the back.
A defined waist often means trousers that fit the seat are loose at the waistband, so a tailor taking in the waist, side adjusters or braces can all help.
Rise and waistband
Rise labels vary between makers, so check where the waistband sits when you stand and when you sit
Many men with a defined waist like a waistband at or near the natural waist; choose the position that stays comfortable
Side adjusters, if you prefer them to a belt
Leg
A straight or gently tapered leg, chosen in relation to your thigh and shoes rather than a set measurement
A slight break at the shoe or none, by preference
Primary selections
Golden olive for business
Warm tobacco for casual
Copper brown for formal wear
Each pair keeps True Autumn’s warmth while fitting your seat, thigh and waist.
Outerwear
Choose jackets and coats for fit first, checking that the shoulders match your own, the jacket buttons without pulling, and the waist does not hang loose once the chest fits.
Jacket fit
Natural or lightly padded shoulders, by preference
Waist suppression, built in or added by a tailor, to follow a defined waist
Lapels in proportion with your chest and shoulders rather than a set width
Details worth asking about
Sleeve pitch set to how your arms hang, so the sleeves do not twist
Higher armholes, which let you raise your arms without the whole jacket lifting
Side vents, which let the jacket sit cleanly over the seat
A curved back seam that follows the small of the back
Colour Application
Bronze brown for primary business wear
Forest green for statement jackets
Rich camel for casual wear
Footwear
Footwear for this combination is mostly about colour and occasion; shoe shape does not change your body outline.
For Business
Quarter-brogue Oxfords in copper brown
Polished leather with a sleek last for tailored trousers
Smart Casual
Jodhpur boots in burnished gold
A hand-burnished finish adds depth to the colour
Weekend Wear
Norwegian split-toe shoes in warm tobacco
Apron stitching and a crepe sole for a relaxed look
Accessories
Belts
A width that fits your trouser loops
Worn where your waistband sits
Hand-dyed leather in cognac
Watches
A case size that sits comfortably within your wrist
Bronze or gold-toned cases suit the palette
Dials in amber or russet
Neckwear
A tie width in proportion with your jacket lapels
Three-fold or seven-fold construction, by preference
Self-tipped in matching fabric
Terracotta and warm teal as the primary colours
Seasonal Outfits
Where an invitation says black tie, the convention is a black or midnight blue dinner suit, a white dress shirt and black shoes; the formal ideas below suit evening events with a more relaxed dress code, or bring your palette in through smaller details.
Spring Outfits
Casual Outfit
Form your spring weekend attire around rich camel trousers, cut to fit the seat and taken in at the waist.
A warm teal linen shirt adds a relaxed drape.
Norwegian split-toe loafers in warm tobacco ground the ensemble, while a bronze watch with an amber dial adds warm detail.
Business Outfit
Spring business suits a bronze brown suit with natural shoulders and waist suppression.
The forest green shirt creates depth, while a terracotta tie adds warmth.
Quarter-brogue Oxfords in copper brown provide grounding, complemented by a belt in cognac.
Formal Outfit
Black remains the traditional dinner jacket colour and is always correct for black tie.
For spring evening events where the dress code allows colour, a golden olive dinner jacket with natural shoulder construction and curved lapels is a palette option.
Rich camel trousers keep the warmth, and a burnished gold formal shirt completes the palette; a white dress shirt and a black bow tie keep to the black-tie convention.
Summer Outfits
Casual Outfit
Structure summer weekends around copper brown linen trousers, with a relaxed drape.
A terracotta polo in open-weave cotton creates depth through texture.
Jodhpur boots in burnished gold establish grounding, while a bronze mesh bracelet adds seasonal lightness without compromising warmth.
Business Outfit
For summer business, try a golden olive tropical wool suit, featuring open-weave construction that maintains structure while allowing movement.
A warm teal shirt introduces controlled depth.
Quarter-brogues in copper brown with a perforated toe cap keep the look formal enough for business.
Formal Outfit
Black remains the traditional dinner jacket colour and is always correct for black tie.
For summer evening events where the dress code allows colour, a cognac mohair dinner jacket is an option, its natural sheen suiting True Autumn’s warmth.
Bronze brown trousers with a side galon complement the jacket’s lustre.
Autumn Outfits
Casual Outfit
Anchor autumn weekends with russet corduroy trousers, with a higher rise that sits at the natural waist, if you prefer it.
Layer with a forest green cashmere crew neck featuring subtle waist shaping.
Jodhpur boots in warm tobacco create seasonal depth, while a bronze chronograph adds sophisticated warmth.
Business Outfit
Autumn business centres on a copper brown suit in flannel, its texture adding to True Autumn’s richness.
A burnished gold shirt creates tonal harmony.
Norwegian split-toe shoes in cognac ground the ensemble through textural contrast.
Formal Outfit
Black remains the traditional dinner jacket colour and is always correct for black tie.
For autumn formal occasions where the dress code allows colour, a bronze brown velvet dinner jacket is an option, its pile catching the light.
Golden olive trousers keep the warmth and add sophistication.
Winter Outfits
Casual Outfit
Build winter weekends around warm tobacco cavalry twill trousers, their diagonal weave creating natural movement.
A russet lambswool rollneck adds warmth.
Jodhpur boots in bronze brown add seasonal substance, complemented by a cognac leather messenger bag.
Business Outfit
For winter business, try a rich camel overcoat layered over a cognac suit; both with light waist shaping.
A forest green tie adds controlled depth.
Quarter-brogues in copper brown with storm welts provide seasonal practicality.
Formal Outfit
Black remains the traditional dinner jacket colour and is always correct for black tie.
For winter formal occasions where the dress code allows colour, a bronze brown barathea dinner suit is an option, its fabric weight giving a natural drape and a warm look.
Common Choices to Reconsider
If you are a True Autumn with an Hourglass outline, a few choices are worth reconsidering.
In seasonal colour analysis, the first four are usually considered less harmonious with True Autumn colouring; compare them near your face in daylight rather than treating them as rules.
Dark Autumn’s deepest shades, which guides describe as heavier than True Autumn
Soft Autumn’s muted tones, which guides describe as less rich
Spring palette colours, which guides describe as lighter and clearer
Cool-based browns
Buying jackets and shirts for the shoulders and leaving the waist loose; a tailor can take it in, or a straighter cut is fine if you prefer it
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. How do I maintain True Autumn warmth in corporate environments that expect traditional suiting?
Where navy and grey are expected, wear them, choosing warmer-leaning navies, charcoals or brown-greys where you can, and bring True Autumn warmth in through the shirt, tie, pocket square, belt and brown shoes.
Brown suits work where the dress code allows them.
Focus on fit, fabric texture and natural shoulders.
Q. What alterations should I request for my proportions?
Ask your tailor what is possible on the garment you own.
Taking in a jacket or shirt waist once the chest fits, and taking in a trouser waistband once the seat fits, are common alterations.
Shoulder changes depend on the jacket’s construction, so choose jackets that fit your shoulders from the start.
Q. How can I incorporate trends while honouring both my shape and palette?
Check trends against fit and your palette.
Adopt the ones that fit your shoulders, waist and seat and come in warm, rich colours.
Q. Which fabric weights work best with True Autumn colours?
Choose cloth weight by season and by how you like a garment to hang, with lighter, open weaves for warm weather and heavier flannels and tweeds for cold weather.
Weights are measured differently for different cloths, so compare garments in person where you can.
Q. How should I approach layering?
Layer within your warm tones, using texture rather than contrast.
If you want to show a defined waist, keep inner layers thin so the outer jacket can still follow it.
Style Like a True Gentleman
Before we say goodbye, fit does most of the work, whether or not you ever work with image consultants.
Professional styling starts with getting the fit right and choosing clothes that suit the occasion; knowing your body shape and seasonal colour palette can make the choosing quicker.
Our guides also cover styling by occasion, location, season and time of day, garments, footwear, accessories and heritage fashion brands.
Take our three quizzes, then book a consultation if you would like personal help.
1. Find Your Body Shape
Different garments suit different silhouettes.
To compare your outline with the seven body shape descriptions, take our body shape quiz for men.
2. Find Your Seasonal Colours
The garments in your outfits come in many colours.
To see which seasonal colour palette may suit you, take our seasonal colour quiz for men.
3. Find Your Fashion Style
To explore your personal fashion style, take our fashion style quiz for men; it suggests styles, outfit ideas and brands to explore.
Book a Consultation with The VOU
For personal help, you can book paid consultations with our image consultants and fashion stylists.
Our styling services for men page lists the paid consultations.
Wearing luxury brands is not enough on its own; how your clothes fit and suit the occasion matters more, and our personal style guide covers the rest.
For more on labels, see our guide to logo-heavy luxury brands and how to wear them.
Contact us if you would like to book a consultation.
For more from The VOU, read about The VOU and our team.