For over a century, Berluti has been synonymous with exquisite craftsmanship and understated elegance.
Yet, in an era where the term ‘luxury’ is often bandied about with abandon, it behoves the discerning gentleman to scrutinise whether Berluti truly merits this lofty designation.
This article shall endeavour to answer the pressing question: Is Berluti genuinely a luxury brand?
Berluti’s Origins
Founded in 1895 by Alessandro Berluti, an Italian immigrant to Paris, the brand swiftly established itself as a purveyor of bespoke footwear to the city’s elite.
Alessandro’s innovative wholecut shoes, crafted from a single piece of leather, revolutionised shoemaking and set a new standard for elegance.
The house’s reputation for excellence was cemented in the 1920s when Torello Berluti, Alessandro’s son, began developing the brand’s signature patinated leather.
Berluti’s unique finish, which imbues each shoe with a rich, multifaceted colour, became the shoemaker’s hallmark.
The brand’s unwavering commitment to innovation and quality, which has been maintained over generations, forms the bedrock of Berluti’s luxury credentials.
How Berluti Embodies Luxury
Luxury, in its truest sense, transcends expense or exclusivity.
It encompasses a harmony of superior materials, exceptional craftsmanship, timeless design, and a certain je ne sais quoi that elevates an item from the expensive to the truly luxurious. Berluti, in this regard, ticks all the requisite boxes.
The brand’s use of the finest leathers—sourced from the most reputable tanneries in Europe—is legendary.
Each hide is meticulously inspected for imperfections, with only the most flawless specimens making the cut.
This obsessive attention to material quality ensures puts every Berluti product, from their iconic Alessandro oxfords to their more recent ready-to-wear collections, in the luxury category.
Moreover, Berluti’s shoes are still largely made by hand in their Italian workshops, showcasing the brand’s commitment to traditional craftsmanship and preserving the artisanal skills that are the lifeblood of true luxury.
Berluti’s Craftsmanship
At the core of Berluti’s claim to luxury lies its unparalleled craftsmanship.
Each pair of Berluti shoes undergoes a painstaking creation process that can take up to 50 hours of work by skilled artisans.
The brand’s signature patina, for instance, is a complex process involving multiple layers of pigment and essential oils, hand-applied to create a unique finish that deepens and evolves over time.
Berluti’s ready-to-wear collection, launched in 2011 under the creative direction of Alessandro Sartori, applies the same principles of exceptional materials and craftsmanship to clothing.
From impeccably tailored suits to sumptuous knitwear, each piece reflects the brand’s commitment to understated luxury.
The brand’s leather goods, including bags, wallets, and small accessories, showcase Berluti’s mastery of leather craft beyond footwear.
The iconic Un Jour briefcase, for instance, is a testament to the brand’s ability to create timeless, luxurious items that appeal to the modern gentleman.
The brand’s Venezia leather, developed in-house, undergoes a months-long tanning process to achieve its distinctive suppleness and patina-ready finish.
Such dedication to craft is rare in today’s fast-paced fashion world and firmly positions Berluti in the upper echelons of luxury.
Berluti’s Exclusivity and Prestige
A true luxury brand offers more than just high-quality products but an exclusive experience that sets its clientele apart and Berluti excels through bespoke services and limited editions.
The brand’s ‘Grande Mesure’ service, for instance, offers clients the opportunity to commission entirely custom-made shoes, crafted to their exact specifications.
Such personalised service involves multiple fittings and hours of work, resulting in a truly one-of-a-kind product that epitomises uber luxury.
Furthermore, Berluti regularly releases limited-edition collections that showcase the brand’s creativity and craftsmanship.
For example, the annual Toys for Boys collection features whimsical yet exquisitely crafted creations intentionally made in extremely limited quantities.
Berluti’s limited edition pieces, often snapped up by collectors, contribute to Berluti’s aura of exclusivity and prestige.
Notable Berluti Enthusiasts
While true luxury transcends celebrity endorsement, the calibre of Berluti’s clientele adds to the brand’s prestige.
From royalty to captains of industry, Berluti has long been the choice of those who demand the very best.
The Duke of Windsor was an early Berluti devotee, commissioning bespoke shoes from the house in the 1930s.
More recently, silver screen icons such as Robert De Niro, Timothée Chalamet, and Rami Malek have been spotted wearing Berluti, on and off the red carpet, lending credence to Berluti’s status as a true luxury brand.
Berluti’s High Price
It’s inescapable that luxury comes at a price, and Berluti’s offerings are undeniably expensive.
A pair of ready-to-wear Berluti shoes typically starts at around $2,000 (about £1,500), with bespoke options reaching five figures.
The brand’s high prices might give pause to all but the most affluent consumers. However, it’s crucial to consider the value proposition behind Berluti’s hefty price.
The materials used, the hours of skilled labour involved, and the decades of expertise that go into each Berluti product justify their cost in the eyes of those who truly appreciate craftsmanship.
Moreover, the longevity of Berluti products – shoes that can last decades with proper care -makes them investments rather than mere purchases.
It’s worth noting that Berluti’s prices are in line with, and some cases lower than, other brands occupying a similar space in the luxury market.
This pricing strategy suggests that Berluti is confident in its product’s intrinsic value, rather than relying on inflated prices to create an artificial sense of exclusivity.
The Verdict – Is Berluti A Luxury Brand?
Having examined Berluti through the lens of heritage, craftsmanship, materials, exclusivity, and clientele, we can confidently assert that Berluti is indeed a luxury brand—and one of the highest calibre at that.
The house’s unwavering commitment to quality, its preservation of traditional craftsmanship, and its ability to evolve while maintaining its core values all speak to its legitimate luxury status.
However, it’s important to note that luxury is subjective, and what constitutes a luxury purchase will vary from person to person. For those who prioritise craftsmanship, heritage, and timeless style, Berluti undoubtedly fits the bill.
Its products serve as a subtle yet unmistakable signifier of discernment and achievement—the very essence of old money elegance.