Start here
What’s This About
Black tie optional means the host welcomes a dinner jacket (tuxedo) but will also accept a dark suit, white dress shirt and conservative tie.
This guide helps you choose between the two and get the details right, such as:
how black tie optional differs from black tie and cocktail attire
what a full black tie outfit includes
how to dress a dark suit up for a black tie optional event
shoes, accessories and overcoats for both options
outfit ideas for galas, awards dinners, weddings and creative events
and many more!
If you own or can hire a dinner jacket, wear it; if not, a well-fitting dark suit is correct.
Key Points
01Emily Post describes black tie optional as a tuxedo, or a dark suit with a white dress shirt and conservative tie.
02A full black tie outfit means a black or midnight blue dinner jacket with silk-faced lapels, matching trousers with a single stripe, a white dress shirt, a black bow tie and black patent or highly polished shoes.
03If you wear a suit, choose navy, charcoal or black with a white shirt, a dark silk tie and black Oxfords.
04Light-coloured suits, brown shoes and novelty ties are out of place at most black tie optional events.
Black tie optional appears on invitations to galas, formal weddings, awards dinners and other evening events where the host wants a formal atmosphere without requiring every guest to own a dinner jacket.
Some invitations say “black tie invited” or “black tie preferred”, which point the same way: a dinner jacket is welcome, and a dark suit is acceptable.
Black Tie Optional Compared With Other Codes
Scroll horizontally to see all columns →
| Dress code | Key garments for men |
|---|---|
| Black tie | Dinner jacket, dress shirt, black bow tie, black patent or highly polished shoes |
| Black tie optional | Dinner jacket, or a dark suit with a white shirt and conservative tie; black dress shoes |
| Cocktail attire | Dark suit, dress shirt, usually a tie; leather dress shoes |
Emily Post’s attire guide lists exactly these two choices for black tie optional: a tuxedo, or a dark suit, white dress shirt and conservative tie.
For the strict code, see our black tie dress code guide, and for the step below, our guide to cocktail attire.
Option 1: Full Black Tie
Dinner Jacket
Choose a dinner jacket in black or midnight blue wool, single-breasted with one button or double-breasted.
Debrett’s describes silk peaked lapels or a shawl collar with covered buttons, and the black tie tradition uses satin or grosgrain facings; notch lapels are common on modern and hire jackets but are less traditional.
Midnight blue is a long-established alternative to black, often credited to the Duke of Windsor’s influence in the 1930s.
Waistcoat or Cummerbund
A low-cut black waistcoat or a black silk cummerbund covers the waist; wear one or the other, not both.
A cummerbund is conventionally worn with its pleats facing up.
Shirt
Wear a white dress shirt with a turndown collar and a pleated or marcella (piqué) front, with double cuffs for cufflinks.
A wing collar is traditionally reserved for white tie, so a turndown collar is the safer choice with a dinner jacket.
Trousers
Trousers match the jacket and have a single silk or satin stripe down each outer seam; they are worn without turn-ups and are usually held up by braces rather than a belt.
Shoes and Socks
Black patent Oxfords, highly polished plain black calf Oxfords or opera pumps are traditional, with black dress socks long enough to cover your shins when you sit.
Accessories
A black silk bow tie, shirt studs and matching cufflinks, and a white pocket square complete the outfit.
A self-tied bow tie is traditional, and Debrett’s advises learning to tie one; a good pre-tied one is a common compromise, and a slim, simple watch is fine for most modern events.
Option 2: The Dark Suit
Suit
Choose a dark suit in midnight blue, navy, charcoal or black, in plain worsted wool or a wool and mohair blend with a slight sheen.
Peak lapels look more formal, but a well-fitting single-breasted suit with notch lapels is perfectly acceptable.
Shirt and Tie
Wear a white dress shirt, ideally with double cuffs, and a dark silk tie in black, navy or midnight blue.
A black bow tie with a dark suit is another option that sits closer to black tie.
Shoes
Wear highly polished black leather Oxfords with plain toes or toe caps, and black or dark socks.
For a refresher on shoe styles, see our dress shoes styling guide.
Finishing Touches
A white linen or silk pocket square in a simple straight fold, understated cufflinks and a plain watch keep the suit looking formal.
Overcoats
In cold weather, a dark single-breasted or double-breasted overcoat in wool or cashmere, such as a Chesterfield, suits both options; leave it in the cloakroom once you arrive.
Summer and Creative Events
In summer, in hot climates or on a cruise, Emily Post notes that a white dinner jacket with black dinner-suit trousers is an accepted alternative.
At creative events, a velvet dinner jacket in a deep colour such as burgundy or bottle green with black trousers can work; this is closer to “creative black tie”, so check the tone of the invitation first.
Outfit Ideas by Occasion
Gala Dinner
A midnight blue dinner jacket with peak lapels, a white marcella-front shirt, a self-tied black silk bow tie, black patent Oxfords, mother-of-pearl studs and a white linen pocket square.
Corporate Awards Night
A charcoal or navy suit in a fine wool, a white shirt with double cuffs, a midnight blue grenadine tie, black calf Oxfords and simple silver cufflinks.
Summer Wedding
An ivory or white dinner jacket with black or midnight blue dinner-suit trousers, a white dress shirt, a black bow tie and black shoes, if the wedding is in warm weather and the invitation allows dinner jackets.
Gallery Opening or Creative Gala
A burgundy velvet dinner jacket with black dinner-suit trousers, a white dress shirt, a black silk bow tie and black patent shoes.
Dos and Don’ts
Scroll horizontally to see all columns →
| Do | Don’t |
|---|---|
| Wear a dinner jacket or a dark suit | Wear a light-coloured or boldly patterned suit |
| Choose a white dress shirt | Wear a coloured, patterned or button-down shirt |
| Wear black dress shoes | Wear brown shoes, loafers or heavily brogued shoes |
| Wear a black bow tie or a dark silk tie | Wear a brightly coloured or novelty tie |
| Have your suit or dinner jacket altered so it fits well | Wear clothes that are baggy, tight or unpressed |
| Keep accessories simple | Wear flashy jewellery or oversized watches |
FAQs
Q. Is a tuxedo necessary for a black tie optional event?
No; a tuxedo is always appropriate, but a dark suit with a white shirt and conservative tie is an accepted alternative.
Q. Can I wear a coloured shirt instead of a white one?
White is the safest choice; a very pale blue or ivory may pass with a suit, but it stands out among dinner jackets.
Q. Are patent leather shoes required?
No; patent shoes suit a dinner jacket best, and highly polished black calf Oxfords are acceptable with either option.
Q. Can I wear a long tie instead of a bow tie?
Yes, a dark silk long tie is appropriate with a suit; with a dinner jacket, wear a black bow tie.
Q. Can I wear braces?
Yes; braces are the traditional way to hold up dinner-suit trousers and should stay hidden under your jacket or waistcoat.