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What’s This About
An hourglass outline with True/Cool Summer colouring can be dressed to follow a defined waist or to play it down, in the cool, muted colours of the True Summer palette.
This guide puts the two together with practical choices, such as:
how the hourglass description compares with the other six body shapes
fit checks for shirts, trousers and jackets around a defined waist
True Summer colours for suits, shirts, shoes and accessories
outfit ideas for each season of the year
and many more!
Every suggestion is an option to compare in a mirror, not a rule.
Key Points
01Hourglass describes shoulders and hips that look broadly balanced, with a visibly more defined waist between them; no measurement gap is required.
02Fit comes first: garments should fasten without pulling, and trousers should sit where you want them when you stand and when you sit.
03Light waist shaping in jackets and shirts follows the outline; a straighter cut is an equally valid choice if you prefer to play the waist down.
04The colour suggestions use the cool, muted shades of the True Summer palette; colour supports the outfit but does not change your outline.
This guide is written for men with an hourglass body shape and the cool, muted colouring of the True/Cool Summer season.
An hourglass outline has shoulders and hips that look broadly balanced, with a visibly more defined waist between them.
You can follow that waist with light shaping or play it down with a straighter cut; both are covered below.
The colour suggestions draw on True Summer’s cool, muted palette.
For examples of this colouring, see our True Summer male celebrities article.
If you are unsure of your body shape or your exact seasonal colour palette, you can take our quizzes:
This guide starts with fit, then shows how to combine your outline with True Summer colours across several kinds of occasions.
Your Quick Styling Guide
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| Category | Options to Consider | Use with Care |
|---|---|---|
| Silhouette | Trousers that sit where you want them, standing and seated Light waist shaping in jackets, if you want to follow the waist Shoulder seams at your natural shoulder Hem widths in proportion to your shoes A straighter cut, if you prefer to play the waist down |
Waistbands that slip or dig in Shaping so tight that the jacket pulls when fastened Heavily extended shoulders, if you want to keep the balance Very tight tapering Spare cloth hiding the waist, if you want to follow it |
| Colours | Steel blue Rose mauve Cool grey Blue grey Soft navy |
Warm undertones Yellow-based colours Pure white Warm browns Orange tones |
| Construction | Natural or lightly padded shoulders Waist shaping at your natural waist Pockets that lie flat A rise that suits where you wear your waistband Clean sleeve heads |
Heavy padding, if you want a natural shoulder Shaping placed below your natural waist Bulky or overfilled pockets Rises that leave the waistband in an uncomfortable place Sleeve heads that pucker |
Your Body Shape Characteristics
In this guide, hourglass describes shoulders and hips that look broadly balanced, with a visibly more defined waist between them.
It describes how the outline reads from the front; it does not require any particular measurement gap, muscle definition or height, and your tape measurements do not need to be equal.
Ready-to-wear garments are often cut straight through the waist, so a jacket or shirt that fits your shoulders and hips may have spare cloth at the waist; light shaping by a tailor can tidy this if you want to follow your outline.
Because the outline is balanced, you can spread True Summer’s cool palette fairly evenly across your outfit and place a lighter or brighter shade wherever you want attention.
The hourglass is one of seven body shape descriptions The VOU uses, alongside triangle, inverted triangle, rectangle, trapezoid, oval and diamond.
Triangle, Inverted Triangle, Rectangle, Trapezoid and Hourglass follow familiar styling usage; Oval and Diamond are described in The VOU’s own words.
For outfit examples, see our hourglass body shape celebrities article.
True Summer Colours
Treat a seasonal label as a styling convention rather than a measurement.
In seasonal colour analysis, True Summer is described as cool and fairly muted; compare the colours near your face in daylight.
With a balanced outline, you can wear these cool, muted colours on top, on the bottom or both, depending on where you want attention.
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| Colour Category | Specific Colours | Suggested Use |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Focus | Steel blue Rose mauve Cool grey |
Shirts, knitwear, suits and ties |
| Foundation Neutrals | Blue grey Cool charcoal Soft navy Cool silver |
Suits, trousers and base layers that combine easily |
| Accent Colours | French blue Cool purple |
Accents such as pocket squares, ties and casual shirts |
Wardrobe Essentials
Base Layers
Base layers are the foundation of every outfit, so start with fit: an undershirt should sit close without pulling and be long enough to stay tucked in when you reach and sit.
A cotton with a little elastane keeps a close-fitting layer comfortable.
Cool silver and blue-grey establish your foundation colours.
Flat, neat seams keep a close-fitting layer smooth under a shirt.
For cold weather, a fine merino layer adds warmth without bulk.
Shirts and Tops
Shirts are where a defined waist shows most, so start with fit.
A medium spread collar is a versatile choice; choose one that sits in proportion to your face and your jacket lapels.
The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder, and the shirt should button across the chest without pulling.
If you want to follow your outline, a shirt with some shaping through the waist (or darts added by a tailor) removes spare cloth there; a straighter cut plays the waist down.
Steel blue and French blue establish your core selection, complemented by rose mauve and cool grey for controlled impact.
Casual shirts usually have a little more room through the body.
Cotton Oxford cloth provides some structure while staying breathable.
Trousers
Trousers for an hourglass outline need room through the seat and thigh as well as a waistband that fits a defined waist, so check both.
Rise labels vary between makers, so check where the waistband actually sits when you stand and when you sit; many men with a defined waist like a waistband at or near the natural waist, but where it sits is a preference rather than a rule.
Side adjusters or a tailor can take in the waistband if the seat and thigh fit but the waist is loose.
A leg that runs fairly straight from knee to hem keeps the outline balanced; a gentle taper is also an option if you prefer it.
Cool charcoal and soft navy establish your formal selection, with cool grey and blue grey offering refined casual options.
Casual trousers in cotton twill provide structure while staying comfortable, with enough room through the hip and thigh to sit and move easily.
Jackets and Outerwear
Start with fit: a jacket should fasten without pulling, sit cleanly at the shoulder and let you move your arms.
A natural or lightly padded shoulder keeps the balance between shoulders and hips; heavier structure is a style choice rather than a requirement.
Choose a lapel width in proportion to your chest and shoulders rather than to a fixed figure.
Jacket length balances your torso against your legs; a jacket that covers your seat is the traditional business choice.
Light waist suppression follows your outline, and a straighter jacket is the option if you prefer to play the waist down.
Choose soft navy for business, steel blue for impact, and cool charcoal for casual wear.
True Summer guides favour the cool versions of these shades.
Casual outerwear follows similar principles, with a little more room through the chest and waist for layers.
Mid-weight wool blends provide structure while allowing movement; the men’s fitting guide covers the fit checks in more detail.
Footwear
Shoes with a moderate weight suit a balanced outline.
Heel height is a matter of comfort and preference.
Rounded or slightly squared toes with minimal decoration keep the look clean.
For formal occasions, select polished leather in cool charcoal or soft navy.
Your casual rotation should include cool grey suede trainers and blue grey Oxfords, each with enough sole weight to suit the outfit.
Accessories
Belt
A belt sits right at your defined waist, so it draws some attention there.
Formal belts are usually narrower than casual belts; choose one that fits your trouser loops, with a buckle finished in polished silver or white metal.
Casual belts can be wider, adding a little visual weight.
Select cool charcoal or soft navy leather with a refined finish.
Watch
Choose a watch case in proportion to your wrist.
Select dials in steel blue or cool grey to bring in palette colours.
A bracelet or strap that tapers towards the clasp sits comfortably on most wrists.
Neckwear
Choose a tie width in proportion to your jacket lapels and shirt collar.
A common convention is for the tip to reach about the top of the trouser waistband.
Select rose mauve and French blue for controlled impact.
Patterns are a matter of taste; low-contrast, softly arranged motifs sit most easily with the muted True Summer palette, and small geometric patterns work too if the contrast stays gentle.
Pocket Square
Cool grey pocket squares provide refined accent points.
A simple fold with a little showing above the pocket keeps the look neat.
Seasonal Outfit Ideas
Where an invitation says black tie, the convention is a black or midnight blue dinner suit, a white dress shirt and black shoes; the formal ideas below suit evening events with a more relaxed dress code, or bring your palette in through smaller details.
Spring Outfits
Casual Outfit
Build your spring weekend attire on cool grey cotton trousers, with a clean, straight leg.
A steel blue polo shirt that fits close without clinging creates refined impact.
Complete with suede loafers in cool charcoal; their substantial soles provide grounding.
A silver watch featuring a blue-grey dial adds refinement, while a woven leather belt in matching charcoal creates cohesion.
Business Outfit
For spring business, select a soft navy suit featuring natural shoulders and considered waist definition.
The French blue shirt beneath creates controlled coolness, while a rose mauve silk tie adds a sophisticated accent.
Cool charcoal Oxford shoes ground the ensemble with authority.
A matching leather portfolio and belt create cohesion, while a steel watch with a blue dial provides executive presence.
Formal Outfit
Black remains the traditional dinner jacket colour and is always correct for black tie.
Where the dress code allows, consider a cool charcoal dinner jacket with subtle waist suppression and a clean shoulder for spring evenings.
Soft navy trousers provide balance, while a blue-grey formal shirt adds controlled colour.
Black patent leather Oxfords provide formal grounding, complemented by mother-of-pearl and platinum dress sets.
Summer Outfits
Casual Outfit
Build your summer weekend attire on blue grey cotton trousers, their weight providing clean lines.
A steel blue linen shirt creates impact, with a fit that follows your waist.
Suede loafers in cool grey provide grounding, while a soft navy woven leather belt maintains refinement.
Silver-framed aviators and a steel watch with cool grey dial complete the ensemble.
Business Outfit
For summer business, consider a tropical wool suit in cool charcoal, and its lightweight construction maintains your lines.
Light shaping at the side seams follows your waist.
A French blue cotton-poplin shirt provides the foundation, whilst a blue-grey silk tie introduces controlled coolness.
Soft navy suede Oxfords and matching accessories ground the look.
Formal Outfit
Black remains the traditional dinner jacket colour and is always correct for black tie.
Where the dress code allows, consider a dinner suit in soft navy for summer evenings, with light waist suppression.
The steel blue formal shirt introduces refined colour, complementing a matched bow tie and cummerbund set.
Mother-of-pearl and platinum dress sets provide detail, whilst black patent leather shoes keep to the formal convention.
Autumn Outfits
Casual Outfit
Anchor your autumn weekend with cool grey wool trousers.
The French blue merino jumper adds colour, and a fitted knit follows your waist.
Suede Chelsea boots in soft navy create grounding and are matched with a refined leather belt.
A steel chronograph featuring a blue-grey dial adds refinement.
Business Outfit
Autumn business centres on a wool twill suit in soft navy, its fabric providing texture.
Light shaping through the waist follows your outline.
The steel blue shirt beneath maintains a presence, whilst a cool purple silk tie adds controlled colour.
Cool charcoal Oxford shoes ground the ensemble with authority.
Formal Outfit
Black remains the traditional dinner jacket colour and is always correct for black tie.
Where the dress code allows, consider a velvet dinner jacket in cool charcoal for autumn evenings, its texture adding depth.
Soft navy formal trousers create contrast, while a French blue formal shirt adds controlled colour.
Winter Outfits
Casual Outfit
Structure winter weekends around flannel trousers in soft navy.
A blue-grey cashmere jumper adds warmth without bulk.
Leather boots in cool charcoal ground the outfit, complemented by matching leather accessories.
Your steel watch features a French blue dial.
Business Outfit
For winter business, consider a flannel suit in soft navy, cut to keep clean lines.
Light shaping through the waist keeps your outline visible under the heavier cloth.
A steel blue twill shirt and a rose mauve silk tie provide the foundation.
Cool charcoal Oxford shoes ground the ensemble with authority.
Formal Outfit
Black remains the traditional dinner jacket colour and is always correct for black tie.
Where the dress code allows, consider a velvet dinner jacket in soft navy for winter formal occasions, its texture adding depth.
Cool charcoal formal trousers create contrast.
Common Mistakes and Choices to Check
Blue suits with warm undertones are usually considered less harmonious with True Summer colouring than a cool navy such as soft navy; compare them near your face in daylight.
For the outline, start with fit: a garment that pulls, or a waistband that slips, matters more than any cut or colour.
If you want to follow your waist, check that spare cloth does not hide it; if you prefer to play it down, a straighter cut is equally valid.
Very tight tapering in trousers can make the hips and seat look fuller by contrast, so a leg that runs fairly straight from knee to hem keeps the balance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. How should I adapt these principles for professional environments?
Where navy or grey suits are expected, wear them, choosing cooler navies or greys where you can, and bring True Summer colours in through shirts, ties and pocket squares.
Fit and fabric quality matter more than the exact shade.
Q. What modifications should I request from my tailor?
Start with fit: ask that the jacket fastens without pulling and that trousers fit your seat and thighs.
If you want to follow your outline, ask about light waist suppression in the jacket and taking in the trouser waistband where it gapes.
A tailor can tell you which changes your garment’s cloth and construction allow.
Q. How do I incorporate trends while maintaining my style principles?
Judge a trend against both your palette and the line you want.
Trending colours are easiest to wear when they match your seasonal swatches, and a trending cut works when it fits your shoulders, waist and seat.
Q. What strategies work best for layering with True Summer colours?
Layer similar tones within your palette, use lighter shades near the face, and keep to cool tones throughout the outfit, as True Summer guides suggest.
Q. How can I maintain my cool palette in warm weather?
Select lightweight fabrics in your coolest neutrals, focus on texture rather than pattern, and check that lighter cloth still fits cleanly, since it shows creases and pulling more readily.
Conclusion
An hourglass outline and True Summer colouring give you plenty of options.
Start with fit, then decide whether to follow your waist with light shaping or play it down with a straighter cut.
Choose cool, muted colours from your palette and place the lightest or brightest shade where you want attention.
Built this way, your garments are easier to combine, so most of your wardrobe works together.
Style Like a True Gentleman
Before we say goodbye, fit does most of the work, whether or not you ever work with image consultants.
Professional styling starts with getting the fit right and choosing clothes that suit the occasion; knowing your body shape and seasonal colour palette can make the choosing quicker.
Our guides also cover styling by occasion, location, season and time of day, garments, footwear, accessories and heritage fashion brands.
Take our three quizzes, then book a consultation if you would like personal help:
1. Find Your Body Shape
Different garments suit different silhouettes.
To compare your outline with the seven body shape descriptions, take our body shape quiz for men.
2. Find Your Seasonal Colours
The garments in your outfits come in many colours.
To see which seasonal colour palette may suit you, take our seasonal colour quiz for men.
3. Find Your Fashion Style
To explore your personal fashion style, take our fashion style quiz for men; it suggests styles, outfit ideas and brands to explore.
Book a Consultation with The VOU
For personal help, you can book paid consultations with our image consultants and fashion stylists.
Our styling services for men page lists the paid consultations.
Wearing luxury brands is not enough on its own; how your clothes fit and suit the occasion matters more, and our personal style guide covers the rest.
For more on labels, see our guide to logo-heavy luxury brands and how to wear them.
Contact us if you would like to book a consultation.
More from The VOU: about The VOU and its team.