The Oxford shoe is a timeless classic that has been a staple in the wardrobes of well-dressed gentlemen for centuries.
These versatile shoes are not only a symbol of sophistication but also offer a versatile option for various occasions, from formal events to casual everyday wear.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore the different types of Oxford shoes, how to choose the perfect pair for your needs, and how to style them perfectly.
What is an Oxford Shoe?
The Oxford shoe is a type of laced footwear defined by a closed lacing system with shoelace eyelets sewn underneath the vamp for a sleek appearance.
This distinctive feature sets the Oxford apart from other dress shoes, such as the Derby or Blucher, with an open lacing system.
Oxford vs. Derby vs. Blucher
The key differences between Oxford, Derby, and Blucher shoes lie in the lacing systems, which impact the overall appearance, formality and performance.
| Feature | Oxford | Derby | Blucher |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lacing System | Closed Lacing | Open Lacing | Open Lacing |
| Formality | Most Formal | Less Formal | Least Formal |
| Appearance | Sleek, Streamlined | Slightly Bulkier | Slightly Bulkier |
| Versatility | Formal to Smart Casual | Smart Casual to Casual | Smart Casual to Casual |
Oxford Shoes
The defining feature of an Oxford shoe is its closed lacing system, where the eyelets for the laces are sewn underneath the vamp.
This creates a sleek, streamlined silhouette considered the most formal of the three styles.
Oxfords are versatile, suitable for both formal occasions, such as black-tie events, and smart casual settings.
Derby Shoes
In contrast to Oxford shoes, Derby shoes feature an open lacing system, with the eyelets sewn on top of the vamp.
This creates a slightly more relaxed, less structured appearance, making Derbies less formal than Oxfords.
However, they are still suitable for smart casual attire and can be dressed up or down accordingly.
Blucher Shoes
Like the Derby, the Blucher shoe has an open lacing system.
However, the key difference is that the quarters (the parts of the shoe that cover the instep) are sewn on top of the vamp, creating a slightly bulkier look.
This design makes the Blucher the least formal of the three styles, positioning it firmly in the casual-to-smart realm.
Oxford Shoe Origins
The Oxford shoe’s origins can be traced back to the early 19th century, a pivotal time when changes in men’s fashion began to take shape.
Before this period, the dominant footwear choice for gentlemen was the tall, knee-high boot – a style popularised by figures such as Beau Brummell, the renowned arbiter of men’s fashion in the Regency era.
During the Regency period, men’s fashion was heavily influenced by the dandies, who favoured an elegant and refined aesthetic.
The tall, tight-fitting boots these stylish gentlemen wore became a symbol of status and sophistication.
However, as trousers gradually became longer and fuller, tucking them into tall boots became increasingly impractical and cumbersome.
This shift in trouser silhouettes paved the way for the emergence of shorter, ankle-high boots that could be worn more seamlessly with the new styles.
Two primary variants arose during this transition – the button boot and the Balmoral boot, the latter named after its association with Scotland’s Balmoral Castle.
It was against this backdrop that the Oxford shoe, as we know it today, began to evolve. University students at Oxford, seeking a more comfortable alternative to the bulky Balmoral, began experimenting with a low-cut, laced shoe featuring a closed vamp construction.
This new style, known as the “Oxonian,” quickly gained popularity among the young intellectuals, earning it the moniker “Oxford shoe.”
As these Oxonian shoes migrated beyond the confines of the university, they began to supplant the traditional boot as the preferred footwear for gentlemen.
The design underwent subtle refinements over the decades, with the closed lacing system becoming the defining characteristic that set the Oxford apart from other dress shoe styles, such as the Derby or Blucher.
Oxford Shoe Types
| Type | Description | Formality | Style With |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plain Oxford |
The simplest and most formal Oxford, featuring a plain, unadorned toe box. | Formal | Well-fitted suits in navy or charcoal grey. |
| Wholecut Oxford | Crafted from a single piece of leather, wholecut Oxfords have a sleek, seamless appearance. | Formal | Black or dark brown Oxfords with tuxedos or evening suits. |
| Cap Toe Oxford | The most versatile Oxford, featuring a cap toe design on the toe box. | Formal to Smart Casual | Black Oxfords with suits, chinos, and even dark denim. |
| Wingtip (Brogue) Oxford | With decorative perforations and “wingtips” along the sides of the toe box. | Smart Casual to Casual | A brown wingtip Oxfords with tweed suits, corduroy trousers, or chinos. |
| Saddle Oxford | With contrasting leather straps or “saddle” across the shoe’s instep. | Casual | Saddle Oxfords in white or light tan with chinos, shorts, or jeans for an All-American aesthetic. |
The Oxford shoe category encompasses a diverse range of styles, each with its distinctive characteristics and appropriate occasions.
Formal Oxford Shoe Styles
Plain Oxford
The plain Oxford is the simplest and most formal of the bunch, featuring a plain, unadorned toe box.
This timeless style pairs exceptionally well with well-fitted navy or charcoal grey suits.
Wholecut Oxford
Crafted from a single piece of leather, wholecut Oxfords have a sleek, seamless appearance.
These elegant shoes are a perfect match for tuxedos or evening suits in black or dark brown.
Smart Casual Oxford Shoe Styles
Cap Toe Oxford
The cap-toe Oxford is the most versatile of the bunch and can be worn with suits, chinos, and even dark denim for a range of formal to smart casual occasions.
Casual Oxford Shoe Styles
Wingtip (Brogue) Oxford
Characterised by decorative perforations and “wingtips” extending along the sides of the toe box, the wingtip Oxford bridges the gap between smart casual and casual.
A brown wingtip with tweed suits, corduroy trousers, or chinos looks great.
Saddle Oxford
The saddle Oxford is a more casual option featuring a contrasting leather strap or “saddle” across the instep.
It works beautifully with chinos, shorts, or even jeans for a relaxed, All-American aesthetic, especially in white or light tan.
By organising the Oxford shoe types into these three broad categories, you can more easily identify the appropriate styles for various occasions, from formal events to casual everyday wear.
Oxford Shoes by Leather Type
The quality and type of leather used in an Oxford shoe can significantly impact its overall appearance, feel, and durability.
Calfskin
Calfskin is a popular choice for Oxford shoes, prized for its smooth, fine-grained texture and excellent shine.
Thanks to their sleek, polished look, which pairs perfectly with tailored suits and evening attire, Calfskin Oxfords are the go-to for formal occasions.
Cordovan
Cordovan, derived from the horse leather of the same name, is a highly coveted material in high-end footwear.
Oxfords crafted from cordovan boast a unique, lustrous finish, exceptional durability, and the ability to develop a rich patina over time.
The higher price point of cordovan Oxfords reflects the meticulous tanning process and the limited availability of this premium leather.
Suede
For a more casual, velvety aesthetic, suede Oxfords are a stylish option.
The napped texture of suede lends a softer, more relaxed feel to the shoe, making it a versatile choice for smart casual or weekend wear.
Suede Oxfords often feature a more textured, matte finish, which can complement a wide range of outfits, from chinos to denim.
Exotic Leathers
At the pinnacle of luxury, some Oxford shoe manufacturers offer exotic leather options, such as alligator, crocodile, or ostrich.
These rare and exquisite materials are prized for their unique visual appeal and exceptional durability.
However, the exclusivity and craftsmanship behind exotic leather Oxfords come at a significantly higher price point, making them a status symbol for the true connoisseur.
Regardless of the leather type, the quality of the tanning and construction process is paramount in determining an Oxford shoe’s longevity and overall appeal.
By understanding the characteristics of each leather option, you can make an informed decision that aligns with your dressing style, budget, and the desired level of formality for your Oxford footwear.
Choosing the Right Oxford Shoes
When selecting Oxford shoes, consider the formality of the occasion and the rest of your outfit.
Generally, the more formal the event, the more you should lean towards a plain or cap-toe Oxford in a classic colour like black or dark brown.
For more casual settings, you can experiment with brogues, wingtips, or saddle Oxfords in lighter shades.
Oxford Shoe Styling Ideas by Occasion
One of the key advantages of the Oxford shoe is its remarkable versatility, allowing it to be seamlessly incorporated into a wide range of outfits and personal styles.
Whether you’re dressing for a formal black-tie event or a casual weekend outing, the Oxford shoe can be the foundation for a stylish, put-together look.
Formal Occasions
For the most formal events, such as weddings, galas, or black-tie affairs, opt for a plain or wholecut Oxford in high-shine patent leather or polished calfskin.
Pair these elegant shoes with a well-fitted tuxedo or dark suit for a timeless, sophisticated ensemble.
The sleek, streamlined silhouette of the Oxford complements the tailored lines of formal menswear, creating a harmonious and refined appearance.
Business and Smart Casual
The classic black or dark brown cap-toe Oxford is an excellent choice for business or smart casual settings.
Wear them with a tailored suit, crisp white shirt, and silk tie for a polished, professional look that commands attention.
Alternatively, pair the same Oxford shoes with chinos, a blazer, and an open-collar shirt for a more relaxed, yet still elevated, aesthetic.
Casual Wear
For a more casual, preppy-inspired outfit, consider a pair of brown wingtip or saddle Oxfords.
These styles work beautifully with chinos, dark denim, or even shorts, depending on the occasion.
Remember to keep the rest of your ensemble relatively simple to allow the Oxford shoes to take centre stage and become the focal point of your look.
Oxford Shoes Do’s and Don’ts
Do
- Buy high-quality, well-crafted Oxfords that will last for years.
- Properly care for your shoes by regularly polishing and conditioning the leather.
- Experiment with different styles and colours to find what works best for your aesthetic and lifestyle.
- Pair Oxfords with classic menswear staples like suits, chinos, and tailored trousers.
Don’t
- Wear Oxfords with casual attire like shorts or activewear unless specifically designed for that purpose.
- Mix formal and casual Oxfords in the same outfit (e.g., pairing patent leather Oxfords with jeans).
- Neglect to break in new Oxfords, as they can initially be stiff and uncomfortable.
- Do not overlook the importance of fit—Oxfords should be snug but not too tight and provide ample support for your feet.
Top Oxford Shoe Brands
The market offers a wide range of Oxford shoes that suit various budgets and personal styles.
However, our curated list of Oxford shoe makers exemplifies craftsmanship, quality, and offerings for a unique style and any formality required.
Premium Oxford Shoe Brands
Edward Green
Hailing from Northampton, England, Edward Green is renowned for its exceptional quality and attention to detail.
The brand’s Oxfords are crafted from the finest calfskin and cordovan leathers, each pair undergoing a meticulous 200-step manufacturing process.
Edward Green’s Oxfords are a testament to the pinnacle of traditional English shoemaking.
Crockett & Jones
Another esteemed name in English shoemaking, Crockett & Jones, has produced high-quality footwear since 1879.
Their Oxfords are characterised by their elegant silhouettes, expertly executed Goodyear welted construction and a wide range of classic and contemporary styles.
Church’s
Founded in 1873 in Northampton, Church’s is a historic British brand known for its exceptionally crafted Oxfords.
Their shoes are characterised by refined elegance and attention to detail, making them a favourite among discerning gentlemen.
Tricker’s
Another esteemed Northampton-based shoemaker, Tricker’s has been producing high-quality Oxfords and other fine footwear since 1829.
The brand’s Goodyear welted constructions and use of premium leathers are hallmarks of their enduring craftsmanship.
Gaziano & Girling
Based on London’s renowned Savile Row, Gaziano & Girling is renowned for its bespoke, made-to-order Oxfords that epitomise continental European elegance.
Their shoes are crafted using traditional techniques, focusing on unique lasts and exceptional leatherwork.
John Lobb
As one of the oldest and most prestigious shoemaking houses, John Lobb has been creating some of the world’s finest Oxfords since 1866.
Known for their impeccable craftsmanship and use of the finest materials, a pair of John Lobb Oxfords is a true investment piece.
Mid-Range Oxford Shoe Brands
Alden
An iconic American shoemaker, Alden is celebrated for its exceptional Cordovan leather Oxfords.
The brand’s attention to detail and commitment to quality construction make it a favourite among well-dressed gentlemen.
Allen Edmonds
As a quintessential American footwear brand, Allen Edmonds has been crafting high-quality Oxfords for over a century.
Their classic styles and affordable pricing make them a go-to choice for those seeking reliable, everyday Oxford shoes.
Carmina
Hailing from Spain, Carmina is renowned for its mastery of Cordovan leather and innovative shoemaking techniques.
The brand’s Oxfords boast a unique blend of European elegance and exceptional value.
Meermin
Offering top-notch quality at accessible price points, Meermin has gained a loyal following among those seeking well-made, stylish Oxfords.
The brand’s attention to detail and commitment to traditional craftsmanship are exemplified in its footwear.
Budget-Friendly Oxford Shoe Brands
Loake
A renowned shoemaker from Northampton, England, Loake offers a range of affordable, high-quality Oxfords that deliver exceptional value.
The brand’s focus on traditional techniques and materials makes it a popular choice for those seeking a taste of British craftsmanship.
Shoepassion
Based in Germany, Shoepassion provides a wide selection of stylish and well-made Oxfords at budget-friendly prices.
The brand’s commitment to quality construction and contemporary designs make it an attractive option for the cost-conscious consumer.
Ace Marks
An up-and-coming brand, Ace Marks offers Italian-made Oxfords at surprisingly affordable prices.
Their focus on elegant silhouettes, premium leathers, and construction techniques sets them apart in the mid-range Oxford market.
Conclusion
Nowadays, the Oxford shoe continues to change, with designers and shoemakers exploring new interpretations and variations on the classic theme.
Yet, at its core, the Oxford remains a testament to the enduring power of thoughtful, functional design and the ability of a single shoe to embody the spirit of refined elegance that has captivated gentlemen for generations.
By understanding the different types and how to style them appropriately, you can elevate your look and exude refined elegance, no matter the occasion.
So, whether you’re a classic preppy, a modern BCBG enthusiast, or simply someone who appreciates the timeless appeal of old-money style, the Oxford shoe is a must-have in your shoe collection.