With ready-to-wear shoes starting at a cool £1,000 (about $1,300) and bespoke offerings soaring past the £5,000 (about $6,500) mark, one might wonder if these shoes are fashioned from gold rather than leather.
Yet, for a certain echelon of gentlemen, the eye-watering price tag is a footnote in the pursuit of sartorial perfection.
But what exactly justifies this astronomical cost? Let’s delve into John Lobb’s world and unravel the mystique behind these coveted creations.
John Lobb’s Rich Heritage
The saga of John Lobb begins not in London’s gilded salons but in Cornwall’s rugged terrain.
John Lobb, a humble farmboy turned ambitious craftsman, set out for Australia during the gold rush of the 1850s.
He honed his skills there, inventing the ingenious ‘hollow heel’—a clever hiding spot for gold nuggets.
Upon returning to London in 1866, Lobb established his eponymous shop on Regent Street, swiftly ascending from goldfields to royal favour.
In 1863, Lobb crafted a pair of exquisite boots for the Prince of Wales, who was awarded his first Royal Warrant—a prestigious endorsement that John Lobb has maintained for over 150 years.
John Lobb’s royal seal of approval catapulted the brand into the upper echelons of society, cementing its reputation as the bootmaker of choice for those who demand nothing but the finest.
The brand’s history took an intriguing turn in 1976 when Hermès acquired the Parisian branch.
This led to the creation of John Lobb Paris, which focused on ready-to-wear shoes. John Lobb London (also known as John Lobb St. James) continues the bespoke tradition.
This duality has allowed the brand to maintain its heritage while expanding its reach.
However, it has also led to some confusion among consumers, potentially diluting the exclusivity that once defined the John Lobb name.
John Lobb’s Shoe Artistry
At the heart of John Lobb’s astronomical prices lies an uncompromising dedication to craftsmanship.
The bespoke process, in particular, is a testament to the brand’s commitment to perfection.
Each pair of John Lobb bespoke shoes requires over 50 hours of handwork, spread across several months and involving multiple fittings.
The process begins with creating a unique last—a wooden form shaped to the client’s foot. This is not merely a matter of taking measurements; it’s an art form that considers the nuances of gait, weight distribution, and lifestyle.
The ‘last maker’ must anticipate how the shoe will mould to the foot over time, ensuring a fit that’s not just comfortable but transformative.
Once the last is perfected, the shoemaking process begins in earnest. Unlike machine-made shoes, John Lobb’s bespoke offerings are entirely hand-welted.
John Lobb’s labour-intensive technique involves creating a leather lip on the insole, which is then painstakingly stitched to the upper and welt.
The craftsman uses an awl to pierce the leather, then passes the thread through by hand, creating a stitch density of up to 11 stitches per inch—a level of precision that machines cannot match.
While time-consuming, John Lobb’s method results in a shoe that can be resoled multiple times and potentially last a lifetime with proper care.
Even the ready-to-wear line, produced in Northampton, England, adheres to exacting standards.
John Lobb’s ready-to-wear shoes are Goodyear welted, a high-end construction method that, while not as refined as hand-welting, offers durability and the ability to resole.
The Goodyear welt uses a strip of leather or rubber (the welt) that runs around the outsole’s perimeter.
The Goodyear machine stitches the welt to the upper and a strip of canvas (the gemming) to the insole, which is cemented.
While John Lobb’s ready-to-wear process is more efficient, it doesn’t allow for the same level of customisation as hand-welting.
The attention to detail is evident in features like the closed-channel sole stitching, a hallmark of fine shoemaking that conceals the stitches for a cleaner appearance.
John Lobb’s Distinct Materials
John Lobb’s commitment to quality extends to its choice of materials.
The brand sources only the highest-grade leathers, primarily from European tanneries renowned for their expertise.
The leathers are selected not just for their appearance but for their ability to age gracefully, developing a rich patina that tells the story of the wearer’s journey.
John Lobb uses full-grain calf leather for the uppers, prized for its durability and fine grain.
Full-grain calf leather comes from specific cattle breeds, such as the Bavarian Simmental, which is known for its high-quality hides.
The leather is often sourced from tanneries like Tannerie d’Annonay in France or Ilcea in Italy, renowned for their expertise in producing leather for luxury footwear.
It is often aniline-dyed, a process that preserves the hide’s natural characteristics while imparting rich, deep colours.
The soles are crafted from oak-bark tanned leather, a slow process that can take up to 14 months but results in dense, water-resistant leather that can withstand years of wear.
The oak-bark tanned leather often comes from J&FJ Baker, the last oak-bark tannery in Britain, operating since 1862.
In the bespoke realm, the footwear options are limitless.
Exotic skins, such as alligator from Heng Long tannery in Singapore or ostrich from Klein Karoo in South Africa, are available for those seeking the ultimate in luxury, though these naturally command an even higher premium.
Even the most minute details are considered; the brand uses only the finest waxed linen thread for stitching, often sourced from Barbour Threads in Northern Ireland, and the brass nails used in construction are of a higher grade than those found in mass-produced footwear.
John Lobb’s Bespoke Experience
For those willing to invest upwards of £5,000, the John Lobb bespoke experience is nothing short of extraordinary.
It begins with an initial consultation at the historic St. James’s Street shop, where clients are measured and their preferences discussed in exquisite detail.
Every aspect of the shoe is customisable, from the toe’s shape to the heel’s height.
What truly sets the bespoke process apart is its ability to accommodate the peculiarities of the human foot.
Bespoke shoes can be crafted to account for differences between left and right feet, unlike ready-to-wear shoes, which assume symmetry.
John Lobb’s level of personalisation extends to orthopaedic concerns; the shoe maker’s craftsmen can incorporate subtle adjustments to alleviate foot problems while maintaining the shoe’s elegant appearance.
The process typically involves at least two fittings. The first is with a trial shoe, allowing the craftsmen to make necessary adjustments.
Only when the fit is deemed perfect does the final shoe enter production, as John Lobb’s meticulous approach ensures that each pair is not just a shoe but a perfectly engineered complement to the wearer’s foot?
It’s worth noting that the bespoke price includes a pair of bespoke wooden shoe trees, which are themselves works of art.
These trees, valued at around £1,400, are essential for maintaining the shape of the shoes and are as unique as the footwear they support.
John Lobb’s Ready-to-Wear Excellence
While the bespoke offerings represent the pinnacle of John Lobb’s craft, the ready-to-wear line is nothing to scoff at.
Produced in Northampton, the spiritual home of English shoemaking, these shoes benefit from generations of accumulated knowledge.
The ready-to-wear process, while more mechanised, still involves a significant amount of handwork. Each pair goes through over 190 steps, from cutting the leather to the final polishing. Here’s a glimpse into the process:
Clicking: The leather is carefully selected and cut, with the clicker ensuring that each piece is free from flaws and cut in a way that optimises the leather’s grain.
Closing: The upper pieces are sewn together, requiring great skill to ensure the pieces align perfectly.
Lasting: The upper is stretched over the last, a critical step determining the shoe’s final shape.
Welting: The welt is attached to the upper and insole using the Goodyear welting machine.
Sole Attaching: The outsole is attached to the welt, then trimmed and shaped.
Finishing: The shoes undergo multiple finishing stages, including edge trimming, sole stitching, and polishing.
It is worth noting that at the £1,000-plus price point, one might expect perfection in every detail.
Yet, upon closer inspection, some aspects of the ready-to-wear line may fall short of expectations.
For instance, some models use thermoplastic heel counters rather than leather, or the occasional use of lower-grade leather for interior components might raise eyebrows among the most discerning consumers.
Wearing Success on Your Feet
Beyond the tangible aspects of quality and craftsmanship, a significant portion of John Lobb’s price tag is attributable to the brand’s storied reputation.
Wearing John Lobb shoes is not merely about having well-made footwear; it’s a statement of success, a nod to tradition, and an entry ticket to an exclusive club.
The brand’s royal warrants—currently held for HRH The Duke of Edinburgh and HRH The Prince of Wales—lend an air of aristocratic approval that resonates with those who value heritage and tradition.
This royal connection has been carefully cultivated over generations, attracting a clientele that includes heads of state, captains of industry, and cultural icons.
However, it’s worth questioning whether this cachet justifies the premium, particularly in the ready-to-wear range.
While the bespoke offerings can claim true exclusivity, the expansion of the ready-to-wear line and its availability through various retailers has somewhat diluted the brand’s air of rarity.
John Lobb Vs Similar Luxury Shoemakers
To truly understand John Lobb’s pricing, it’s instructive to compare them with other high-end shoemakers.
Brands like Gaziano & Girling, Edward Green, and Crockett & Jones Hand-Grade offer comparable quality at lower prices, often with more contemporary styling.
For instance, a pair of Gaziano & Girling shoes, renowned for their elegant lasts and impeccable finishing, can be had for around £1,200.
These shoes often feature hand-welted construction and materials of similar quality to John Lobb, raising questions about the additional premium commanded by the latter.
Gaziano & Girling’s unique selling point is their blend of traditional craftsmanship with more modern, sleek designs.
Edward Green, another Northampton stalwart, offers shoes of comparable quality to John Lobb’s ready-to-wear line at prices starting around £1,000.
Their Top Drawer range, which includes hand-lasting and hand-welting, starts at about £1,500—still significantly less than John Lobb’s bespoke offerings.
Edward Green is known for their exceptionally clean finishing and elegant, timeless designs.
Crockett & Jones Hand-Grade shoes, representing the pinnacle of the brand’s production, start at around £650.
While not hand-welted, these shoes feature the finest materials and attention to detail that rivals that of much more expensive brands.
Crockett & Jones is particularly noted for their robust construction and classic English styling.
In the bespoke realm, makers like Foster & Son or George Cleverley offer comparable services at lower starting prices, though still in the multi-thousand-pound range.
Foster & Son’s bespoke shoes start at around £3,000, while George Cleverley’s begin at about £3,500.
While perhaps lacking John Lobb’s royal pedigree, these makers are equally respected in shoemaking circles and may offer more personalised attention throughout the bespoke process.
Is John Lobb Worth the Investment?
From a purely functional standpoint, it’s difficult to argue that the performance benefits justify the price, particularly in the ready-to-wear range.
Other high-end makers offer similar quality and durability at lower price points.
However, for those who value heritage, prestige, and the cachet of owning a piece of shoemaking history, John Lobb may well be worth the investment.
The bespoke offering, in particular, provides a level of customisation and fit that’s hard to replicate elsewhere, though it comes at a steep cost.
Moreover, with proper care, a pair of John Lobbs can last decades, potentially offering better value over time than cheaper alternatives that require more frequent replacement.
Let’s consider a cost-per-wear analysis. Assume a pair of John Lobb ready-to-wear shoes costs £1,200 and lasts 20 years with regular wear (once a week) and proper care.
That’s 1,040 wears, resulting in a cost-per-wear of approximately £1.15. Compare this to a £300 pair of shoes that lasts 5 years under the same conditions, resulting in a cost-per-wear of about £0.58.
While the John Lobb shoes are still more expensive per wear, the gap narrows significantly when longevity is considered.
Ultimately, the “worth” of John Lobb shoes extends beyond their material value. They are as much a statement piece as they are functional footwear, signalling to the world a commitment to tradition, quality, and a certain lifestyle.
Whether that statement is worth the premium is a decision each potential buyer must make.
Conclusion
John Lobb shoes represent the pinnacle of traditional English shoemaking, combining centuries of craft knowledge with the finest materials available.
Their astronomical prices reflect not just the tangible quality of the product but also the brand’s royal heritage, the exclusivity of its bespoke service, and the prestige associated with the name.
However, in an era where craftsmanship is experiencing a renaissance and numerous high-quality alternatives exist, the John Lobb premium is increasingly difficult to justify on purely objective grounds.
The ready-to-wear line, in particular, faces stiff competition from makers offering similar quality at lower prices.
For those who can afford it and value John Lobb’s unique combination of heritage, craftsmanship, and prestige, these shoes remain a compelling choice.
They are not just footwear but wearable artefacts of a bygone era when the craft was king and time was abundant.
Yet, for the discerning gentleman who prioritises value alongside quality, it may be worth exploring other options in the vast landscape of fine shoemaking.
The true cost of sartorial perfection, it seems, is not always measured in pounds and pennies but in the satisfaction derived from wearing a piece of history on one’s feet.