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What’s This About
An Oxxford suit can be worth it if you value American handmade tailoring and it fits you after proper fittings, but the price alone does not prove it is better than other canvassed suits.
This guide explains the company and how to judge its suits, such as
Oxxford’s history in Chicago since 1916
The reported handwork behind each suit
Signs of careful tailoring to check in any suit
How Oxxford compares with Kiton, Attolini and Savile Row
Three outfits built on a navy suit, a grey flannel suit and a sport coat
and many more!
Choose the suit that fits you and suits the way you dress first, and the label second.
Key Points
01Oxxford has made tailoring in Chicago since 1916.
02MR Magazine reported 179 steps and about 28 hours of labour per suit in 2017.
03Fit matters more than handwork, so attend every fitting.
04Oxxford does not list prices online, so ask a stockist for current prices.
Oxxford Clothes is a Chicago tailoring company that has made suits and jackets largely by hand since 1916.
Its suits cost several thousand dollars, so the fair question is what that price pays for and whether it is worth it to you.
This guide gives the company’s documented history, explains the handwork behind the price, compares Oxxford with other high-end tailors and sets out clear criteria for deciding.
Oxxford’s Heritage
Oxxford says it was founded in Chicago in 1916 by the brothers Louis and Jacob Weinberg, and it still makes its clothes in the city.
In 2016 the workshop moved from the West Loop to the Southwest Side of Chicago.
Gentleman’s Gazette reported in 2022 that Oxxford has been owned since 1994 by the Tom James clothing group, a group that also owns the cloth merchant Holland & Sherry.
The same article named Clark Gable, Humphrey Bogart and Joe DiMaggio among the company’s historical customers.
Crain’s Chicago Business reported in 2016, as Wikipedia records, that Oxxford was making nearly 8,000 suits a year, down from about 35,000 a year in the 1980s.
What the Price Pays For
Handwork
In January 2017, MR Magazine reported that an Oxxford suit involved 179 production steps and about 28 hours of labour, and that artisans spent around 30 minutes hand-stitching roughly 1,000 stitches into each lapel.
Gentleman’s Gazette described more than 160 steps for the jacket alone, with nine separate steps for the collar.
Those hand stitches attach the canvas, a layer of stiffening cloth, to the front of the jacket so that the lapel rolls softly and the chest keeps its shape.
Hand work of this kind takes far longer than machine work, which is the main reason for the price.
American Manufacture
Making suits in Chicago means paying American wages and keeping a skilled workforce, which costs more than manufacturing in countries with lower labour costs.
Cloth and Fitting
Oxxford says it sources cloth from mills around the world, and the most expensive suits use rare fibres such as vicuña.
Its suits are sold ready to wear and made to measure, and made-to-measure orders involve taking your measurements and fitting the suit before it is finished.
Oxxford does not publish a cost breakdown or list prices on its website, so ask a stockist for current prices, which depend on the cloth and on whether the suit is ready to wear or made to measure.
What to Check in Any High-End Suit
These signs of careful tailoring apply to Oxxford and to any other maker you compare it with.
Lapel roll. A canvassed lapel curves softly at the top button rather than lying flat as if pressed.
Pattern matching. Stripes and checks line up across the pockets, the back seam and the collar.
Buttonholes. Hand-sewn buttonholes are slightly irregular and neatly finished on the back.
Shoulders and sleeves. The sleeve hangs cleanly from the shoulder without twisting or dimpling.
Trousers. The waistband sits level, the pockets lie flat and the crease runs straight to the shoe.
Fit. The jacket lets you raise your arms and button it without pulling into an X across the front.
Oxxford vs Other High-End Tailors
Oxxford’s cut is usually described as American and more structured than Neapolitan tailoring.
Italian makers such as Kiton also use extensive handwork, often with a softer Neapolitan shoulder, while Cesare Attolini is known for a particularly soft, light Neapolitan jacket.
On London’s Savile Row, houses such as Huntsman offer full bespoke, cut from an individual paper pattern over several fittings.
Prices for all of these makers vary with cloth, country and service, so compare the exact suit and service you want rather than brand against brand.
The right choice depends on the shape you prefer, the climate you live in and how the jacket fits you, which you can only judge by trying it on.
Are Oxxford Suits Worth It?
Judge an Oxxford suit against these criteria rather than on the price or the name.
Handwork. If you value a hand-padded lapel and the soft, lasting shape it gives, Oxxford offers a lot of it.
Fit. No amount of handwork helps a suit that does not fit; in his 2022 review, the Gentleman’s Gazette writer found his custom Oxxford jacket tight in the sleeves and back, so attend every fitting and say what feels wrong.
Use. A navy or mid-grey suit worn every week repays its cost far faster than a bold suit for rare occasions.
Care. Brush the suit after wear, hang it on a shaped hanger, rest it between wears and dry-clean it rarely, and it will last longer.
Alternatives. Many tailors and brands offer canvassed suits at lower prices, and second-hand Oxxford suits are common.
A high price does not prove higher quality, and a suit does not tell anyone about your wealth, background or success.
On balance, an Oxxford suit can be worth it if you value American handmade tailoring, the suit fits you after proper fittings and you will wear it often for many years.
How to Wear an Oxxford Suit
A suit like this works best in classic colours that you can wear often, combined with your own personal style.
For business, a navy worsted suit, a white or light blue shirt, a dark silk tie and black cap-toe Oxford shoes.
For autumn and winter, a mid-grey flannel suit, a light blue shirt, a burgundy or navy knitted tie and dark brown Oxford or Derby shoes, with a navy overcoat.
For smart casual, a navy or brown sport coat, a white Oxford shirt, grey flannel trousers and brown suede loafers.
The Verdict
Oxxford has made tailoring in Chicago since 1916, with a reported 28 hours of labour and around 1,000 hand stitches in each lapel of a suit.
Its price pays for that handwork, American manufacture, cloth and fitting, and canvassed suits are also available from other makers at a range of prices.
An Oxxford suit can be worth it if it fits you well, suits the way you dress and is worn and cared for over many years.
Next Steps With The VOU
If you would like help applying these ideas to your own wardrobe, take our three quizzes, then book a consultation if you want personal help.
You can read about dressing for your body shape and your seasonal colour palette, and our guide to styling by occasion, location, season and time of day explains how to combine garments, footwear and accessories.
A label alone does not make an outfit work, as our articles on heritage fashion brands and Old Money style discuss.
1. Check Your Body Shape
To check your body shape, take our body shape quiz for men.
2. Find Your Seasonal Colours
To find your seasonal colours, take our seasonal colour quiz for men.
3. Find Your Fashion Style
Take the fashion style quiz for men to see which personal fashion styles match your taste, with outfit ideas for each.
None of the quizzes is needed to wear the outfits in this guide.
Personal Help From The VOU
Our styling services for men are paid consultations; the shop page lists what each one includes.
You can read about The VOU’s image consultants and stylists and about The VOU before you book.
You can also contact us with any questions.
Sources
Oxxford Clothes, About (checked 7 October 2026).
MR Magazine, Oxxford Clothes shares success secrets and plans for the next 100 years (23 January 2017).
Gentleman’s Gazette, My first custom suit, 10 years later (17 July 2022).
Oxxford Clothes, Wikipedia (location and production).