Old Money Aesthetic for Men, a Small Wardrobe Worn Through Every Season and Occasion

Suits and blazers

A tailored suit in navy or charcoal grey is the most useful formal option, with a subtle chalk stripe as a second choice.

Ready-made suits can fit well after alterations, and Savile Row bespoke tailoring is one option among several rather than a requirement.

A navy single-breasted blazer with metal or horn buttons works with grey trousers, chinos and even jeans.

A double-breasted blazer in a structured wool is a dressier alternative.

Tweed and herringbone jackets add texture for autumn, winter and country settings.

Shirts

White, light blue and pale striped shirts cover most needs, in the Old Money colour range.

Poplin, a smooth plain weave, suits ties and suits, while Oxford cloth, a softer basket weave, suits button-down collars and casual wear.

Egyptian cotton describes the fibre, not the weave, so check the weight and the feel of the cloth as well as the label.

Linen shirts are cooler in summer, and brushed cotton flannel is warmer in winter.

Rolled sleeves give a relaxed finish, an idea explored in our sprezzatura guide.

Polo shirts

Cotton piqué polo shirts in white, navy or forest green are the casual counterpart to the dress shirt.

Choose a collar that holds its shape and a length that sits just below the belt, and keep logos small or absent.

Wear them with chinos or linen trousers at the weekend.

Trousers and chinos

Wool trousers in grey, navy or camel form the base of the wardrobe, a habit shared with the Italian Old Money style.

Flat fronts look clean, while pleats give more room through the hip and suit higher rises and heavier cloths.

A slight break or no break at the shoe both work; the choice depends on the trouser width and how much ankle you want to show.

Chinos in stone, cream or olive cover casual days, and work well with loafers and a blazer.

Shoes

Goodyear-welted shoes can be resoled, which suits a wardrobe meant to last.

Black or dark brown Oxford shoes cover formal wear and business suits.

Penny and tassel loafers sit between formal and casual and are the most versatile choice in this wardrobe.

Suede derbies and driving shoes suit weekends.

Outerwear

A navy or camel wool overcoat covers cold weather over tailoring.

A beige or navy trench coat covers rain and the months in between.

Waxed cotton and quilted jackets suit the country and rough weather, and our guide to men’s coat types compares the options.

Accessories

Keep accessories few and plain, such as a leather belt, a dress watch on a leather strap and a silk pocket square.

Add a wool or cashmere scarf and leather gloves in winter.

Buying for the long term

Natural fibres such as wool, cotton, linen and cashmere, and leather for shoes and belts, last well when they are cared for.

Price is not a reliable guide to quality, so check the fabric, seams, buttons and lining of each garment yourself.

Secondhand shopping is a good way to find well-made tailoring, knitwear and shoes for less.

How to layer

Start with a cotton shirt, a fine merino jumper or a thin roll neck as the base.

Add a mid-layer such as a cashmere or lambswool jumper, a tweed waistcoat or a blazer.

Finish with an outer layer such as a camel overcoat, a navy trench or a quilted field jacket.

Each layer should fit over the one below without pulling, so check jacket and coat sizes while wearing the knitwear you plan to put underneath.

Spring and summer

Lightweight linen and cotton keep you cool.

Linen shirts in white, sky blue or soft pastels go with tailored shorts or light chinos.

An unstructured blazer in linen or fresco wool adds a layer without much heat.

Suede loafers and espadrilles suit warm weather; save flip-flops and sports trainers for the beach and the gym if you want the outfit to stay in this style.

A woven leather belt, a Panama hat and tortoiseshell sunglasses finish the look.

Autumn and winter

Wool and cashmere coats in camel, charcoal or navy go over tailoring.

A heavier cashmere or merino jumper over an Oxford shirt is warm and easy to wear, with a tweed jacket or wool waistcoat for extra depth.

Wool flannel, corduroy and heavier chinos replace summer trousers.

Leather boots and suede derbies handle wet streets better than thin-soled shoes.

A cashmere scarf, leather gloves and, if you like hats, a felt fedora complete the outfit.

Business and formal

Choose a navy or charcoal wool suit, a white shirt, a silk tie in a small pattern, black or dark brown Oxford shoes, with a navy overcoat in winter.

Add a simple pocket square, a slim leather belt and a dress watch if you wear one.

Smart casual

Try a fine-gauge knitted polo shirt or merino roll neck, an unstructured wool blazer, stone chinos and brown suede loafers, with a trench coat if it rains.

Weekend

Weekends call for a cable-knit jumper over a rugby shirt or henley, brown corduroy trousers and suede desert boots, with a waxed cotton jacket on top.

In warmer months, swap in a white polo shirt, cream chinos and brown penny loafers.