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What’s This About
The ‘alta borghesia’ look is a name for classic Italian dressing, with soft tailoring, muted colours, fine knitwear, suede loafers and very few logos.
This guide covers classic Italian dressing for men, such as
The principles behind the look, from fit to muted colours
Neapolitan soft-shoulder suits and what to look for
Shirts, trousers, knitwear, coats and shoes to start with
Outfits for a business lunch, the seaside and the opera
What to wear to a gallery, a regatta or a mountain weekend
and many more!
Treat the label as a description of clothes you can choose, not of who you are.
Key Points
01‘Alta borghesia’ is an Italian social term; online it names a style, and the clothes place nobody in any group.
02Neapolitan jackets have a soft, shirt-like shoulder and little padding; try several cuts to find yours.
03Navy, grey, brown, beige and olive combine easily, with colour added through ties and pocket squares.
04La Scala in Milan does not admit shorts or sleeveless T-shirts to the auditorium; black tie is for events that ask for it.
Alta borghesia is an Italian social term, roughly “upper bourgeoisie”, and online it has become a name for a classic Italian way of dressing, which means soft tailoring, muted colours, fine knitwear, suede loafers and very few logos.
The clothes do not place anyone in any social group, and this guide treats the phrase simply as a label for a look that anyone can wear.
Italian classic dressing is usually explained through tailoring traditions such as Naples and Milan rather than through any single family, although Gianni Agnelli’s style is often quoted as an example.
It shares its love of understatement with classic British style, but with lighter cloth, softer shoulders and more colour in summer.
This guide covers the principles, the wardrobe, outfits for three occasions and practical advice for other events.
The principles of Italian classic style
Understatement. Well-made garments in good cloth, with small or no logos.
Classic over trendy. Shapes and colours that will still look right in ten years.
Fit. Clothes that follow your body without pulling, whether made for you or ready to wear and altered.
Care and detail. Clean, pressed clothes, polished dress shoes and tidy grooming.
Muted colours. Navy, grey, brown, beige and olive, with classic patterns.
Italian tailoring details. Soft shoulders, patch pockets on casual jackets and loafers worn more often than in British dressing.
The Italian classic wardrobe
A small set of wardrobe essentials covers most occasions.
The suit
Start with a tailored suit in navy or charcoal, then add grey and subtle patterns such as glen check or a fine stripe.
Neapolitan tailoring is known for a soft shoulder sewn like a shirt sleeve (spalla camicia), little padding, a curved breast pocket and a three-button front where the lapel rolls over the top button.
Not every Italian jacket is this soft, so try several cuts and choose the one that suits your shoulders.
Keep colours understated and choose cloth by season, with lighter wool for summer and flannel for winter.
Shirts
White and light blue are the base, with fine stripes and small checks for variety.
A spread collar suits most ties and looks neat open at the neck too.
Check that the collar sits under the jacket lapels and that the cuff shows a little below the jacket sleeve.
Trousers
Beyond suit trousers, own a pair of grey wool trousers and cotton chinos in beige, grey or olive.
Classic Italian trousers often have a higher rise, pleats and side adjusters, with a gentle taper to the ankle.
Knitwear
Fine-gauge jumpers and cardigans in merino or cashmere go under a jacket or on their own.
Camel, grey and navy work with everything else in this wardrobe.
Outerwear
A navy, camel or grey wool overcoat, single- or double-breasted, covers the cold months.
For casual days, a quilted jacket or a waxed cotton jacket, a borrowing from British country dressing, is the practical choice.
Footwear
Own black and dark brown Oxfords, brown suede loafers and, if you like them, a pair of double monk straps.
Makers range from Italian shoemakers to British ones such as John Lobb; fit and care matter more than the name.
Accessories
Silk ties in small patterns, and pocket squares in silk or linen, add colour.
E. Marinella, founded in Naples in 1914, is one well-known tie maker; many others make good ties.
A plain leather belt that matches your shoes and a simple watch complete the look.
Casual clothes
Even casual outfits keep the same care, for example a knitted polo shirt with linen trousers in summer, or a cashmere roll neck under a tweed jacket in winter.
Our guide to summer clothing brands lists makers of light summer clothes.
Evening wear
For black-tie events, choose a black or midnight blue dinner jacket, a white shirt with a piqué (Marcella) bib or a pleated front, a self-tie black silk bow tie and black patent shoes.
Italian outfit ideas by occasion
These three outfits show how the wardrobe combines; swap any garment for one you already own.
Business lunch
Wear a navy single-breasted suit with soft shoulders, a white shirt with a semi-spread collar, a burgundy and navy silk tie, a white linen pocket square and dark brown cap-toe Oxfords with a matching belt.
Hem the trousers with little or no break, and add a simple watch; a vintage one suits the look.
Weekend by the sea
Wear stone linen trousers, a light blue cotton or linen shirt with the sleeves rolled, a navy cable-knit jumper over your shoulders for the evening and brown suede loafers worn without socks.
Add tortoiseshell sunglasses and a braided leather belt.
Evening at the opera
Milan’s La Scala asks the audience to dress in keeping with the theatre and does not admit anyone wearing shorts or a sleeveless T-shirt to the auditorium.
For an ordinary performance, a dark suit, white shirt, silk tie and black Oxford shoes are appropriate.
For a gala that asks for black tie, wear a midnight blue or black dinner jacket with satin facings, matching trousers with a side stripe, a white shirt with a wing or turn-down collar, a hand-tied black bow tie, simple studs and cufflinks and black patent shoes.
Our articles on Turnbull & Asser shirts, John Lobb shoes and Charvet look at some well-known makers of evening shirts and shoes, but any well-fitting equivalent works.
A white silk or linen pocket square, folded loosely, adds the relaxed touch Italians call sprezzatura.
Dressing for other occasions
Gallery openings
Wear a textured wool blazer, grey or beige trousers, a white shirt, a muted silk pocket square and brown suede loafers; our article on Boglioli looks at one maker of soft jackets.
Summer regattas and seaside lunches
A navy blazer in a light wool, white linen trousers, a striped linen shirt and leather deck shoes or loafers suit a regatta or a harbour lunch.
Winter weekends in the mountains
A cashmere or merino roll neck under a quilted down jacket, wool trousers and sturdy leather boots work for an après-ski lunch.
Board meetings
A dark grey suit in a slightly textured cloth, a pale blue shirt and a grenadine tie look sharp without being loud.
Family lunches
A light grey summer suit or a blazer with grey trousers, a white shirt and a favourite old tie suit a long family lunch; an inherited tie or watch adds personal history.
Modern business
For a less formal office, wear a soft unstructured jacket over a fine knit, cotton or wool trousers and suede loafers.
Grooming
A regular haircut, clean nails and a light fragrance complete the look.
Beyond the wardrobe
Travel
For a summer trip, a navy linen blazer, cream cotton trousers, two shirts and suede loafers cover most plans.
For a ski trip, add a roll neck and a down jacket.
Hosting at home
For a dinner party at home, a velvet smoking jacket over a white shirt with grey flannel trousers is relaxed but smart; our articles on Rubinacci and Finamore shirts look at two Neapolitan makers.
For a casual lunch, a soft sport coat, chinos and Belgian or penny loafers are enough.
Inherited and vintage garments
A watch, tie or cufflinks handed down in your family, or bought second-hand, give an outfit character without new spending.
Modern touches
Wrinkle-resistant travel cloth and a leather bag that fits a laptop keep the look practical; our article on Valextra looks at one Italian leather goods maker.
Style with The VOU
If you would like help applying this style to your own wardrobe, take our three quizzes, then book a consultation if you want personal help.
1. Check your body shape
Our guide to dressing for your body shape explains how proportions and silhouettes affect the way clothes look on you.
Check your body shape with the body shape quiz for men.
2. Find your seasonal colours
Our seasonal colour analysis guide explains how colour seasons are used to choose shades for the outfits you put together.
Find your seasonal colours with the seasonal colour quiz for men.
3. Take the fashion style quiz
Take the fashion style quiz for men to see which personal fashion styles match your taste.
None of the quizzes is needed to wear the outfits in this guide.
Paid consultations
Our styling services for men are paid consultations; the shop page lists what each one includes.
You can read about The VOU’s image consultants and fashion stylists.
Our articles explain what an image consultant does and how to choose an image consultant.
Our guide to styling by occasion, location, season and time of day explains how garments, footwear and accessories are combined.
A label alone does not make an outfit work, as our articles on luxury brands favoured by ultra-high-net-worth buyers and how logo-heavy luxury designs come across discuss.
You can contact us with any questions.