What is a Fashion Style?
A fashion style is a combination of clothes, footwear, and accessories depicting patterns, motifs, colours, shapes, and fabrics belonging to specific cultures, subcultures, or social movements, adapted to or mixed with the latest fashion trends.
Despite being used interchangeably in fashion parlance, fashion styles are not fashion trends or aesthetics but unique ways of dressing.
Garments, footwear, and accessories with similar aesthetic roots – shapes, silhouettes, patterns, motifs, symbols, colours, and materials – can be grouped into stylistically similar outfits and described as fashion styles.
Fashion styles are adopted and reshaped by groups, communities, and subcultures as visual ways of showcasing their values, beliefs, group belonging, social status, and lifestyle.
For an outfit to be catalogued as belonging to or representing a particular fashion style, the composing clothes, footwear, and accessories must share aesthetics and motifs representative of the subculture it attempts to portray.
That being said, someone’s look or way of dressing could blend different fashion styles, not belonging to any particular subculture, colloquially called their “personal style.”
The Origin of Style
Originating from the Latin ‘stilus,’ an instrument for writing or a form of expression, the term ‘style’ was used to describe – according to Hegel’s Philosophy of History – architecture, art performances, fashion creations, and later as visual expressions of a subculture.
A style is a distinctive way of performing an act or designing an object recognizable through its descriptive and normative usages, aesthetic patterns, motifs, materials, and colours, and present in various applications such as the rock style of music, the French style of cooking, the Gothic style of suits, or the Victorian style of architecture.
The concept of style was first used in architecture to describe design ways, such as the Ciceronian, Baroque, or Romanesque styles, eventually expanding to describing forms of art and fashion.
As such, one’s choice for a specific fashion style expresses an intention of depicting a particular character or social role at a given occasion.
According to the book Gothic: Literary Sources and Interpretations Through Eight Centuries, the ‘Gothic’ style originated from the idea that the destroyers of the Roman Empire looked and behaved in barbaric ways.
According to Otto Kurz, the ‘Baroque’ style, meaning ‘bizarre’ or ‘absurd,’ resulted in a conflation of miscellaneous expressions.
‘Rococo’ was coined as a term of derision in 1797 by Jacques-Louis David’s pupils for the meretricious taste of the age of Pompadour.
‘Romanesque’ emerged around 1819 as a term denoting “the corruption of the Roman style and mannerism showcased by its impact on the ‘purity’ of the Renaissance.
The first usage of style as an expression of a collective spirit and subcultures’ visuals can be traced back to early 1800 romantic philosophy, notably Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel’s ‘Philosophy of History lectures at the University of Berlin:
“A nation’s art, no less than its philosophy, religion, law, mores, science, and technology, will always reflect the stage in the evolution of the spirit, and each of these facets will thus point to the one common center, the essence of the age.”‘
Fashion Styles Origin
Fashion styles emerge as groups of people and communities wear garments, footwear, and accessories depicting aesthetic patterns, motifs, materials, colours, cuts, sewing, and drawings belonging to or depicting past subcultures.
For example, whether the Gothic clothing style uses patterns from medieval feudalist architecture is not questioned, but if historians can find and record these connective unitary aesthetics.
What distinguishes all styles from casual connections is the always present a priori character and, as Adolf Loos, an Austrian pioneer of modern architecture, puts it:
“If nothing were left of an extinct race but a single button, I would be able to infer, from the shape of that button, how these people dressed, built their houses, religion, art, and mentality.”
In fashion design, the most common way of depicting a style is through the artistic mix of clothing and accessories depicting patterns, motifs, shapes, cuts, and colours belonging to a subculture or more into outfits.
French philosopher and semiotician Roland Barthes states:
“fashion style is a form of aesthetic language and a mode of communicating statements using the grammar of fashion.”
Fashion Style vs. Personal Style
It is important to observe that fashion styles differ from personal styles.
The fashion world has recorded and recognised around 50 fashion styles, catalogued by the decade of appearance, aesthetic roots, subcultural origins, and composing clothes, accessories, and footwear.
While each fashion style has a different origin and aesthetic roots, they’re all influenced by cultural and societal changes and new fashion trends.
Subcultures create fashion styles by adopting, using, and blending clothes, footwear, and accessories with aesthetics, patterns, and motifs from previous subcultures into new forms of visual identity.
These fashion styles are well-established and resurface yearly, either as perfect interpretations of the past, re-imagined in modern variants, or as part of fashion trends and fads.
On the other hand, your own style is how you combine and like to wear your clothes, whether unbuttoned shirts or shoes without laces.
Nevertheless, the clothes and accessories that form your outfit will always comprise aesthetic elements (patterns, motifs, colours, materials) representative of a subculture and, thus, their fashion style.
Fashion Styles Historical Overview
From ancient Rome to the medieval Caliphate and the Industrial Revolution, most ways of dressing emerged out of necessity.
However, intentionally dressing in specific styles started in the Victorian era.
From the ‘Roaring Twenties,’ new fashion styles emerged in waves matching economic changes or social unrest.
From the Victorian era to the 2020s, each decade is represented by the five most representative fashion styles and their aesthetic roots (patterns, motifs, symbols, materials, colours).
Victorian Era (1837-1901)
Victorian – a dressing style influenced by the British monarchy and comprised of frock coats, high collars, cravats, and waistcoats.
Art Nouveau – tailored suits with artistic details and nature-inspired patterns.
Sportswear Apparel – clothing with functional cuts inspired by emerging sports activities such as tennis and golf.
Day and Evening Looks – separate outfits for day/night with corresponding materials like wool for day and fine silk for evening.
Mourning Attire – black suits, top hats, and accessories in dark tones reflecting the social importance of mourning.
Edwardian Era (1901 – 1914)
Edwardian – high collars, morning coats, top hats, and detailed tailoring with aesthetic roots in the British nobility and King Edward VII’s attire.
Oriental – smoking jackets with oriental motifs from exotic materials and luxurious fabrics inspired by the growing fascination with Far East cultures.
La Belle Epoque – well-fitted suits with artistic details influenced by the art nouveau movement.
Tailored – tailored suits and military-inspired jackets made from expensive fabrics.
Art Deco Artisanal – handmade garments with artisanal details in geometric shapes and rich colours, signalling the approach of the Roaring Twenties.
1920s
Jazz Age – wide-leg trousers and double-breasted suits reflecting the Jazz Age freedom and emancipation.
Art Deco – suits with geometric patterns and metallic motifs reflecting urbanization and modernity.
Gentleman’s Classic – well-tailored suits in classic cuts showcasing practical elegance.
Formalwear – pinstriped tailored suits assorted with fedoras influenced by the growing Italian and Irish gangster look.
Hollywood Glamour – Tuxedos and dinner jackets from fine wool and silk.
1930s
Hollywood Glamour Continued – elegant suits in fine wool and silk reflecting the stars of the cinema.
Escapist – resort wear and tropical suits in exotic prints and light fabrics as a way to minimize the Great Depression.
Utilitarian – functional garments from sturdy fabrics reflecting the global economic hardship.
Surrealist – suits and accessories with abstract motifs and mind-bending prints and colours representative of Salvador DalÃ.
1940s
Wartime – utilitarian suits and military-inspired jackets from rationed fabrics in militaristic colours, influenced by World War II.
American Classic – high-waisted trousers and structured jackets with clean lines inspired by American culture.
Movie Star – elegant suits and dinner jackets reflecting the growing influence of Hollywood stars.
The New Look for Men – structured suits with broader shoulders reflecting the post-war optimism.
Zoot Suit – oversized jackets and wide-legged trousers with stripe motifs showcasing the rebellious youth.
1950s
Mid-Century Modernism – tailored suits in abstract patterns showcasing a growing architectural influence among fashion designers.
Rockabilly – leather jackets, slim-fit jeans, and boots pointing to the emerging rock ‘n’ roll subculture.
Classic American – structured suits in conservative cuts – see Cary Grant’s influence.
Beatnik – black turtlenecks assorted with berets pointing to the emergence of a literary subculture.
Preppy – Ivy League style chinos, navy blazers, loafers, and sweaters with tartan and argyle patterns showcasing British aesthetic roots.
1960s
Mod Fashion – slim-fit suits, Chelsea boots, and parkas with bold geometric patterns as signs of growing feelings of rebellion against the status quo.
Hippie – tie-dye shirts, flared jeans, and accessories with floral and peace motifs showcasing a growing anti-war sentiment.
Space Age – futuristic designs; metallics, vinyl; space exploration fascination.
Carnaby Street – colorful suits and bold patterns depicting London’s artists and creatives.
Black Panther – all-black uniforms with berets and leather jackets as forms of political statement.
1970s
Disco – suits with wide lapels, platform shoes, and shirts in shimmering fabrics reflecting the growing disco subculture.
Punk Rock – ripped tees, tight jeans, leather jackets with anarchistic symbols, chains, and safety pins showcasing the subculture’s rebellious nature.
Bohemian – loose shirts, bell-bottom pants with ethnic prints depicting the movement’s ‘free of societal boundaries’ ethos.
Goth – black clothing with spiderweb and skull motifs and silver accessories inspired by Gothic rock musicians of those times.
Leisure – Leisure suits from polyester and shirts with wide collars, defining the casual menswear revolution.
1980s
Power Dressing – suits with strong shoulders and pinstripes showcasing corporate success and ambition.
New Romanticism – ruffled shirts, velvet suits, and jackets with gothic motifs showcasing the nightclub culture.
Streetwear – tracksuits and baseball caps with graffiti prints pointing to the emergence of the hip-hop subculture.
Safari – khaki jackets and cargo pants with multiple pockets in African patterns.
Neo Preppy – colorful short chinos, polo shirts in pastel colours, sleeveless sweaters in argyle patterns.
1990s
MTV Generation – baggy jeans, oversized t-shirts with slogan prints, and street-inspired accessories reflecting music video influence.
Grunge – flannel shirts, ripped jeans, tops in plaid patterns, and combat boots.
Hip-Hop – baggy jeans, baseball caps, loud logo t-shirts, and heavy golden chains reflecting the urban subculture.
Minimalist – clean-cut suits and simple garments in monochrome shades, depicting the emergence of minimalist fashion.
Y2K – metallic fabrics, futuristic accessories, and tech-inspired patterns depicting the millennial tech optimism.
2000s
Indie Rock – skinny jeans, vintage t-shirts, and leather jackets inspired by independent music culture.
Emo – skinny jeans with studded belts and dark tops showcasing an emotive alternative to the punk subculture.
Designer Streetwear – luxury brand collaborations with street culture elements at the top of conspicuous consumption.
Hipster – vintage clothing with retro prints, ethnic pattern shirts, relaxed pants, and thick glasses depicting the subculture’s ironic vibe.
Athleisure – performance wear, technical fabrics, and comfortable sneakers depicting a growing fitness culture.
2010s
Normcore – normative dressing with unbranded clothes as an anti-fashion statement.
Tech Bro – minimal, comfortable clothing focused on functionality and subtle luxury.
Dark Academia – tweed blazers, wool trousers, and oxford shirts with preppy aesthetics in darker tones influenced by Gothic elements.
Streetwear Evolution – high-end streetwear mixing luxury brands with casual elements.
2020s
Sustainable Fashion – eco-conscious clothing made from sustainable materials with emphasis on ethical production.
Techwear – functional garments from smart materials and with cyber patterns showcasing technology integration.
Health-Conscious – Protective outfits and masks reflecting global health concerns.
Gorpcore – technical outdoor wear adapted for urban environments, mixing functionality with style.
Virtual Fashion – digital clothing made to be worn in augmented, virtual, and mixed-reality environments – at least for now.
References
- René Wellek and Austin Warren
- Adolf Loos: Das Werk des Architekten
- History of the Art of Antiquity
- The Gothic: literary sources and interpretations through eight centuries
- The Globalization of Renaissance Art
- Mme. de Pompadour as a Patron of the Visual Arts