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What’s This About
The Old Money dress code is not a written rulebook but a set of classic menswear conventions, namely fit first, quiet colours, small logos and clothes suited to the occasion.
This guide explains those conventions and how to wear them, such as
Related styles from preppy and Sloane Ranger to BCBG and Ametora
Core garments and what to look for in each
Materials, construction and what Super numbers mean
The colour palette and how to use it
Four complete seasonal outfits
and many more!
The conventions are style preferences you can adapt, and they say nothing about anyone’s wealth, background or character.
Key Points
01There is no official Old Money dress code; the ‘rules’ are long-standing menswear conventions.
02Fit, cloth and suitability for the occasion matter more than the label or the price.
03Navy, grey, brown, white and olive make an easy base, and brighter colours remain an option.
04Start with a navy blazer, grey flannels, a white shirt and dark Oxford shoes, then build slowly.
The Old Money aesthetic is a contemporary label for classic, quiet dressing, with good tailoring, plain shirts, traditional knitwear, leather shoes and very little visible branding.
The phrase “old money” means families who have been rich for a long time, and it is often contrasted with “new money”, but the clothes cannot show how anyone got their money or how much they have.
There is no written Old Money dress code; what people call its “unspoken rules” are really a set of long-standing menswear conventions about fit, cloth, colour and occasion.
Those conventions change slowly compared with fast-moving fashion trends, which is much of their appeal.
This guide sets out the core Old Money principles, the garments and materials involved, the colour palette, four seasonal outfits and how to build the wardrobe at different budgets.
Origins and related styles around the world
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| Region | Related style | Typical features |
|---|---|---|
| New England, USA | Preppy style | Ivy League campus clothes, nautical influences, classic American sportswear |
| United Kingdom | British country and town dress, and Sloane Ranger style | Savile Row tailoring, tweed and waxed country clothes, quiet colours |
| France | BCBG (bon chic, bon genre) | Parisian chic, discreet tailoring, navy and neutral colours |
| Italy | Italian Old Money style | Soft tailoring, relaxed details and the idea of sprezzatura |
| Continental Europe | Classic European tailoring and country clothes | Made-to-measure and ready-to-wear tailoring, loden and tweed, small or no logos |
| Japan | Ametora or Japanese trad style | American traditional clothes reinterpreted with close attention to detail |
The look draws on the clothes of the American East Coast and on European tailoring and country dress.
In the United States it overlaps with preppy style, which grew out of the campus clothing of Harvard, Yale and Princeton in the early twentieth century; our Ivy League style book covers that history.
In Britain the closest label is Sloane Ranger style, a term the writer Peter York popularised in the 1970s, with roots in Savile Row tailoring and country clothing.
In France, BCBG (bon chic, bon genre) describes a polished Parisian look that became widely known in the 1980s, helped by Thierry Mantoux’s 1985 guide to it.
Italian sprezzatura, a word from Castiglione’s 1528 Book of the Courtier, describes making careful effort look easy, and it is often used for the relaxed details of Italian tailoring.
Each version has its own history, but they share a preference for classic shapes, quiet colours and small or absent branding.
Visible branding is a different look, not a lesser one, and our comparison of the two is linked below.
The principles behind the look
These principles are style preferences, not rules, and you can follow some and ignore others.
Buy fewer, well-made clothes. Choose garments you will wear often and look after them.
Keep branding small, with plain fabrics and quiet details rather than large logos.
Use classic shapes, which means traditional tailoring and dress codes that change slowly.
Pay attention to detail in fit, finishing and how accessories work with the outfit.
Dress for the occasion, aiming to be neither noticeably over-dressed nor under-dressed for the setting.
Core Old Money garments
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| Category | Garment | Features to look for |
|---|---|---|
| Suits | Navy and charcoal single-breasted suits | Ready-to-wear, made-to-measure or bespoke; natural shoulders, moderate lapels |
| Blazers | Navy blazer with metal or horn buttons, tweed sport coat | Soft or light structure; shoulders that fit |
| Trousers | Grey flannel trousers, khaki chinos | Mid or high rise, pleated or flat-fronted, plain or turned-up hems |
| Shirts | White and light blue Oxford cloth button-downs | Cotton, a collar that rolls softly, buttons sewn on securely |
| Knitwear | V-neck jumper, cable-knit jumper | Wool, lambswool, cashmere or cotton in neutral colours and classic patterns |
| Outerwear | Camel overcoat, waxed cotton jacket | Classic cuts, durable cloth, small or no branding |
| Footwear | Oxford shoes, penny loafers, dress boots | Leather or suede; welted soles can usually be replaced |
| Accessories | Silk or knitted ties, pocket squares, leather belt | Subdued patterns, little or no visible branding |
These garments are simple on purpose, so fit and fabric do most of the work.
Choose them for how often you will wear them rather than for how new they look.
A navy suit with a white shirt and a quietly patterned tie suits interviews, weddings and formal meetings; our article on why suits still matter looks at when to wear one.
A wardrobe like this works best when most tops go with most trousers, so plan colours and formality together.
Materials and construction
Natural fibres are the usual choice for this look because of how they drape, breathe and wear, although fibre alone does not guarantee quality, so check the weave, the seams and the fit too.
Wool covers worsteds for suits, and tweed and flannel for country and casual wear; “Super” numbers such as Super 120s describe how fine the fibre is, not how long the cloth will last, and very fine cloths can be more delicate.
Among cottons, long-staple types such as Sea Island and Egyptian are used for finer dress shirts, while Oxford cloth and poplin are everyday staples.
Cashmere is soft and warm for knitwear; blends with wool or silk can be practical too, so judge by how the knit feels and holds its shape.
Linen is cool in summer for suits, trousers and shirts, and it creases naturally.
Silk is used for ties, pocket squares and some eveningwear.
Here are some signs of careful construction.
Canvassed or half-canvassed jacket fronts
Goodyear-welted soles on leather dress shoes, which can usually be resoled
Horn, corozo or mother-of-pearl buttons, although good plastic buttons are common too
Even, tight stitching
Checks and stripes that line up at the seams
Look after what you buy so it lasts longer, by brushing wool, using shoe trees and following each care label.
Old Money colour palette
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| Colour | Related shades | Typical uses |
|---|---|---|
| Navy | Midnight blue, Oxford blue | Suits, blazers, knitwear, accessories |
| Grey | Charcoal, pewter, heather | Suits, trousers, overcoats |
| Brown | Chestnut, tan, camel | Shoes, belts, outerwear |
| White | Bright white, ivory | Dress shirts, casual shirts, summer trousers |
| Green | Hunter, olive, sage | Outerwear, accessories, casual trousers |
| Red | Burgundy, oxblood, deep crimson | Accessories, knitwear |
| Pink | Pale pink, salmon | Dress shirts, casual shirts |
| Yellow | Butter, canary | Casual shirts, accessories |
An Old Money-inspired wardrobe can start with restrained colour combinations.
You do not need a seasonal colour palette to use them; compare the actual clothes and keep brighter choices when you enjoy them.
The restrained version described here emphasises muted neutrals, which is an aesthetic choice, not a rule about which colours show taste or confidence.
Navy and grey are the usual base for suits, blazers and trousers because they combine easily with many shirt and tie colours.
Brown, tan and olive appear often in casual and country clothes.
White and light blue are the most common shirt colours, with pale pink and yellow as summer options.
Brighter colours often appear in ties, pocket squares, socks and knitwear.
Choose how restrained or noticeable you want the combination to be, within the requirements of the occasion.
Old Money outfit ideas by season
The labels named below are examples to compare at different prices, not requirements; similar garments that fit work as well.
Old Money outfit for spring
A light wool or wool-silk blazer in sage green or stone works for mild days.
Pair it with white or cream cotton-linen trousers and a pale pink or light blue shirt.
Add a plain or lightly patterned pocket square and brown suede loafers, for example from Belgian Shoes, Bass or Sebago, with a braided leather belt in a similar brown.
Tortoiseshell sunglasses are an optional extra.
Wear a sage wool-silk blazer, a pale pink cotton shirt, white cotton-linen trousers, brown suede loafers and a braided brown belt.
Old Money outfit for summer
A navy blazer in a light, open weave such as hopsack is the base, whether ready-made or from a tailor such as Anderson & Sheppard.
Wear it with stone cotton chinos, turned up once at the ankle if you like, and a white cotton piqué polo shirt, for example from Sunspel.
Leather boat shoes, for example from Quoddy or Sperry, suit days near the water.
A needlepoint or webbing belt adds a little colour, and a simple watch and classic sunglasses finish the outfit.
The outfit is a navy hopsack blazer, a white piqué polo shirt, stone chinos, brown leather boat shoes and a webbing belt.
Old Money outfit for autumn
A brown herringbone tweed jacket, for example from Cordings, suits cool, damp weather in town or the country.
Layer a cream cable-knit jumper underneath; Inis Meáin, founded in 1976 on the Aran Islands, is one maker known for knitwear of this kind, and many high-street brands make similar jumpers.
Add olive moleskin or cord trousers and brown suede boots with rubber soles, for example from Crockett & Jones, for grip on wet grass.
A paisley pocket square, for example from Turnbull & Asser, leather gloves and a waxed or tweed flat cap complete the outfit.
Wear a brown herringbone tweed jacket, a cream cable-knit jumper, olive moleskin trousers, brown suede boots and a flat cap.
Old Money outfit for winter
Start with a white roll-neck in fine merino, for example from John Smedley, under a burgundy cashmere or lambswool jumper.
Wear charcoal flannel trousers, for example from Thom Sweeney, in town, or insulated ski trousers on the slopes.
For rain and wind, a coat in a weatherproof cloth helps; Loro Piana’s Storm System fabrics, for example, combine a water-repellent finish with a waterproof, breathable membrane.
Choose warm, lined boots with grippy soles, a wool or cashmere scarf, for example from Johnstons of Elgin, and leather gloves, for example from Dents.
The outfit is a burgundy jumper over a white merino roll-neck, charcoal flannel trousers, a weatherproof navy coat, lined brown boots and a tartan scarf.
Old Money style do’s and don’ts
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| Do | Don’t |
|---|---|
| Get clothes altered so they fit | Buy on impulse because something is on trend or on sale |
| Try natural fibres and check the weave and seams | Assume a fibre or a price guarantees quality |
| Start from a muted palette if you want a restrained look | Treat bright colours as a sign of anything about the wearer |
| Develop outfits that feel like your own | Copy someone else’s outfit exactly when it does not suit your life |
| Use subtle patterns and textures | Rely on large logos to carry the outfit |
Alterations make a bigger difference to most outfits than the label, and made-to-measure or bespoke tailoring is an option if your budget allows.
Fast-moving trends are not wrong, but they date quickly, so buy them only when you know you will wear them.
Natural fibres such as wool, cotton, linen and cashmere are typical of this look, while some blends add stretch, crease resistance or water resistance that you may find useful.
A muted palette of navy, charcoal, olive and burgundy is a common base, with pastels in warmer months.
Brighter colours are an option when you want a more noticeable outfit or accent; they do not reveal a wearer’s confidence or motives.
Celebrity and influencer outfits can be useful ideas; adapt them to your own life rather than copying them exactly.
For pattern and texture, a herringbone weave, a pin-dot tie or a lightly textured wool adds interest without dominating the outfit.
Old Money style today
The modern version keeps the same priorities of fit, quiet colour and suitability, with a few practical updates.
The classic navy blazer now often comes with a softer shoulder, a slightly shorter length or a cooler cloth such as wool-mohair.
Trousers are often cut with a slightly higher rise and a gentler taper, and casual jackets have lighter canvassing and natural shoulders.
Performance cloths appear in classic designs, such as a waterproof coat or a travel suit in high-twist wool that recovers well from creasing.
The colour range has widened a little, with more blues, greens and browns alongside navy and grey.
Small makers of ties, shoes and knitwear have become more visible, and many buyers now ask where and how clothes are made.
Formal and casual clothes mix more freely, for example a tailored jacket with dark jeans, or a knitted tie with an Oxford shirt and chinos.
The aim is to apply long-standing principles to the way you live now, rather than copy any one period.
An Old Money wardrobe on a budget
You do not need inherited wealth, or much money at all, to dress in this way.
Start with a few foundation garments, such as a navy blazer, grey flannel trousers, a white dress shirt and dark Oxford shoes.
Spend more where you will notice it in daily wear, such as shoes and a jacket that fits, and less on garments you wear occasionally.
Vintage and second-hand clothing can offer well-made garments at lower prices; check condition carefully and buy by measurements.
End-of-season sales help too, but a discounted garment you rarely wear is not a saving.
Basic alterations, such as hemming trousers, adjusting a waistband or replacing buttons, make modest purchases fit much better.
Smaller makers often sell ties, belts and knitwear comparable to famous labels for less.
Our guide to building an Old Money wardrobe on a budget has a full shopping plan, and our comparison of Old Money and New Money style shows how the two looks differ.
Conclusion
The Old Money look is less a dress code than a set of habits that put fit first and favour classic shapes, quiet colours and clothes chosen for the occasion.
Build slowly, starting with garments you will wear every week, and let the wardrobe grow as your needs become clear.
A good tailor and a good cobbler will help any wardrobe last longer.
Treat the look as a framework for your own taste rather than a costume, and remember that it says nothing about your wealth, background or character.
Styling beyond Old Money
Choose clothes for their fit, the occasion and your preferred appearance.
A seasonal colour palette is an optional aid for comparing colours, not a prerequisite for dressing well, and dressing for the occasion, location, time of day and your own routine matters as much as any framework.
If you would like to explore, take our two quizzes.
1. Check your body shape
Check your body shape with our body shape quiz for men.
2. Find your seasonal colours
If you want an initial prompt for colour comparisons, our seasonal colour quiz for men offers a provisional starting point.
Book a consultation for personal help
Our styling services for men are paid consultations; the shop page lists what each one includes.
You can read more about The VOU’s stylists and image consultants.