In the rarefied world of bespoke tailoring, Anderson & Sheppard is a colossus with a reputation of sartorial excellence forged over a century.
Founded in 1906 by Per Anderson, a Swedish tailor, and Sidney Horatio Sheppard, an expert trouser cutter, this venerable house has become synonymous with the quintessential English gentleman’s wardrobe.
From its current premises at 32 Old Burlington Street, a mere 176 yards from its original Savile Row location, Anderson & Sheppard continues to dress some of the world’s most discerning gentlemen.
With an output of approximately 1,500 bespoke suits annually, it remains the largest tailoring house on Savile Row.
But what exactly about this particular establishment has captivated the elite for generations?
Let us delve into the fabric of Anderson & Sheppard’s enduring appeal and unravel the threads of its success.
1. Anderson & Sheppard’s Revolutionary Cut
At the heart of Anderson & Sheppard’s fame lies a singular sartorial innovation: the English Drape cut.
This style, pioneered by the Dutch tailor Frederick Scholte in the early 20th century and perfected by Anderson & Sheppard, was revolutionary.
The cut is characterised by a soft shoulder with minimal padding, a chest cut with additional fullness, and a nipped waist.
This combination creates a silhouette that broadens the chest and slims the waist, lending the wearer an air of athletic elegance without sacrificing comfort.
The genius of the English Drape lies in its ability to flatter a wide range of body types, making it a perennial favourite among gentlemen of discerning taste.
Anderson & Sheppard’s iteration of the drape cut features an extended shoulder (typically around 7 inches wide), a relatively low buttoning point, and noticeably open quarters below the waist button.
These elements create a dramatic look that broadens the shoulders and narrows the waist, epitomising the house’s approach to flattering the male form.
2. Anderson & Sheppard’s Craftsmanship and Detail
The allure of Anderson & Sheppard extends far beyond its signature cut.
Each suit is a testament to the skill and dedication of the cutters and tailors who bring it to life.
The process begins with creating a unique paper pattern for each client, ensuring a bespoke fit.
One of the most distinctive features of an Anderson & Sheppard suit is its hand-padded chest canvas, cut on the bias (45 degrees) for superior drape and movement.
While time-consuming, this technique results in a jacket that moulds to the wearer’s body over time, becoming a second skin.
The house is also known for its unique shoulder construction, which uses minimal padding and relies instead on careful cutting and shaping to achieve its signature soft, natural look.
Anderson & Sheppard is one of the few houses that still makes its shoulder pads, allowing for precise control over the shape and feel of the finished garment.
The sleeve head, for instance, is constructed from a piece of wadding folded inside the dinette, a felt layer used in the chest to sit atop the horsehair canvas.
This level of craftsmanship is not merely about creating a beautiful garment; it’s about creating a garment that will stand the test of time in terms of style and durability.
3. Anderson & Sheppard’s Celebrity Clientele and Royal Connections
The roster of Anderson & Sheppard’s clientele reads like a who’s who of the 20th and 21st centuries.
In the golden age of cinema, luminaries such as Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper, and Laurence Olivier were devoted customers.
Astaire, in particular, was known for his loyalty to the house, having been a regular client since 1923.
The world of arts and letters was equally well-represented, with Noël Coward, Cole Porter, and Evelyn Waugh favouring Anderson & Sheppard’s distinctive style.
Perhaps most notably, the Prince of Wales (later the Duke of Windsor) was a devoted patron, helping to cement the house’s reputation as the tailor of choice for the truly elite.
This royal connection continues today, with King Charles III being a long-standing client.
In fact, Charles wore a 13-year-old Anderson & Sheppard morning suit to his 2005 wedding to Camilla Parker Bowles.
4. The Anderson & Sheppard Experience
To truly understand Anderson & Sheppard’s appeal, one must consider the experience of commissioning a bespoke suit from the house.
Upon entering the Old Burlington Street premises, clients are greeted by an understated elegance.
The shop’s open layout allows customers to observe the cutters at work, providing a tangible connection to the craftsmanship that goes into each garment.
The process begins with a consultation, during which the client’s needs and preferences are carefully noted.
Fabric selection is a crucial part of this process, with Anderson & Sheppard offering an extensive range of the finest cloths from renowned mills.
Once measurements are taken, a paper pattern is created – a unique blueprint for the client’s physique.
Multiple fittings follow, refining the garment to achieve the perfect fit and silhouette.
Throughout this process, which typically takes several months, the client is attended to by the same cutter and tailor, fostering a relationship that often lasts for years.
As of 2023, bespoke suits at Anderson & Sheppard start at approximately £5,500, reflecting the time, skill, and premium materials involved in their creation.
5. Anderson & Sheppard’s Timeless Style for the Modern Gentleman
In an age of fast fashion and rapidly changing trends, Anderson & Sheppard is a bastion of timeless style.
The house’s approach to tailoring is not about chasing the latest fads and fashion trends but about creating garments that will look as relevant and stylish in a decade as they do today.
The clean lines and balanced proportions of an A&S suit transcend fashion cycles, ensuring that the wearer always looks polished and put-together.
While the house remains true to its core principles, it is willing to evolve.
The introduction of the Haberdashery shop at 17 Clifford Street in 2012 is a prime example of this.
Here, clients can find a range of ready-to-wear items and accessories that complement the bespoke offerings, all imbued with the A&S aesthetic.
The Haberdashery specialises in made-to-measure trousers, offering 12 styles developed by the Anderson & Sheppard Bespoke cutting team.
Why Anderson & Sheppard Remains a Symbol of Success
In the competitive world of luxury menswear, Anderson & Sheppard has maintained its position at the pinnacle for over a century.
This enduring success can be attributed to several factors contributing to the house’s unique appeal.
First, there’s the undeniable quality of the product.
An Anderson & Sheppard suit represents hundreds of hours of skilled labour, with techniques like the bias-cut canvas and hand-made shoulder pads setting it apart from lesser garments.
Then, there’s the exclusivity factor.
While A&S is not the most expensive tailor on Savile Row, its bespoke services are still out of reach for all but the most affluent.
Third, there’s the house’s rich history and tradition.
In a world where luxury brands often lack authenticity, Anderson & Sheppard offers a genuine connection to a golden age of tailoring.
Last but not least, there’s the actual Anderson & Sheppard style.
The English Drape cut, with its ability to flatter the physique and project an air of easy elegance, is the perfect sartorial expression of success.
It speaks of a confident, sophisticated man at ease in the corridors of power.
Is Anderson & Sheppard An Investment?
The enduring popularity of Anderson & Sheppard is the result of over a century of dedication to craft, style, and service of the highest order.
Few investments can match the impact of an Anderson & Sheppard suit for the gentleman seeking to project an image of success and refinement.
It is a garment that speaks volumes without saying a word, communicating taste, discernment, and achievement through its impeccable cut and finish.
In a world where true luxury is increasingly rare, Anderson & Sheppard offers something genuinely special: a garment that is not just worn but inhabited, a second skin that moves with the wearer and improves with age.
It is, in short, the epitome of sartorial excellence, a standard against which all other tailoring must be measured.
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