Black Tie for Men by Event, From Weddings to Galas, and How to Read the Invitation

When an invitation says “black tie”, the host expects a dinner jacket with matching trousers, a white dress shirt, a black bow tie and black formal shoes.

A dark business suit is not standard black tie, so if you cannot buy or hire a dinner suit, ask the host rather than assume a suit will pass.

“Black tie optional” means a dinner suit is welcome, but a dark suit with a white dress shirt and a conservative tie is also acceptable, according to the Emily Post Institute.

“Black tie preferred” and “black tie invited” point the same way.

If you own or can hire a dinner suit, wear it; if not, a well-fitting dark suit is correct.

“Creative black tie” keeps the black tie foundation but leaves room for a personal touch, such as a coloured bow tie or a velvet jacket.

Check the invitation or ask the host how far that goes, because hosts use the term in different ways.

Wear a black dinner suit with peak lapels, a white marcella-front shirt, a black silk bow tie, a black cummerbund, black patent Oxfords or opera pumps, onyx studs and cufflinks, and a white linen pocket square in a straight fold.

The top hat belongs to white tie, so leave it out with a dinner jacket.

Wear a black dinner jacket with a shawl collar and matching trousers, a white pleated-front shirt, a black bow tie, a black evening waistcoat, black patent Oxfords, mother-of-pearl cufflinks and a white silk pocket square.

Wear a velvet dinner jacket in midnight blue or bottle green, black dinner suit trousers, a white dress shirt, a patterned silk bow tie, black patent Oxfords, and a pocket square that picks up one colour from the bow tie.

Velvet slippers suit the outfit if the host is happy with them.

Wear a black or midnight blue dinner suit with peak lapels or a shawl collar, a white dress shirt, a black bow tie, a cummerbund, black patent or highly polished plain black Oxfords and a white pocket square.

Leave boutonnières to the wedding party unless the couple offers them to guests.

Discreet personal cufflinks are fine, but avoid anything that draws attention from the couple.

If the invitation says black tie optional, a dark suit with a white shirt and a conservative tie is correct for a guest.

Choose a black dinner jacket with grosgrain-faced lapels and matching trousers, a white pleated-front shirt, a black grosgrain bow tie, a black cummerbund, black patent Oxfords and a white silk pocket square.

Choose a coloured dinner jacket only if the invitation says creative black tie.

Wear a black dinner suit with peak lapels, a white dress shirt, a black bow tie, a cummerbund, black patent or polished calf Oxfords and a white pocket square.

Cruise lines set their own formal-night rules, and many accept a dark suit, so check what yours asks for before you pack.

Wear a black dinner suit, a white dress shirt, a black silk bow tie, black patent Oxfords and a white pocket square.

If the invitation says creative black tie, a velvet dinner jacket in a deep jewel colour with the black dinner suit trousers is an alternative.

In hot weather, in the tropics or on a cruise, the Emily Post Institute notes that a white dinner jacket with black dinner suit trousers is accepted; ivory and cream are common, and a cummerbund is cooler than a waistcoat.

Keep the jacket on unless the host or the most senior guests take theirs off.

In cold weather, a heavier wool dinner suit with an evening waistcoat adds warmth, and a black or midnight blue velvet dinner jacket is a traditional choice for winter evenings indoors.

A burgundy velvet jacket like the one pictured suits an event with creative black tie.

For the journey, a dark overcoat long enough to cover the dinner jacket, a white silk or dark cashmere scarf and dark leather gloves keep the outfit intact.