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What’s This About
Cape Cod style is relaxed New England summer dressing: navy blazers, Oxford shirts, chinos, faded red trousers, cable-knit jumpers and boat shoes in navy, white, khaki and red.
This guide covers Cape Cod style for men, such as:
Where the look came from, from working sailors to Nantucket Reds
How it compares with Hamptons, Newport and island dressing
The wardrobe essentials, from the navy blazer to boat shoes
Four seasonal outfits for the coast
A glossary of terms such as OCBD, GTH trousers and croakies
and many more!
Start with a few navy, white and khaki basics and add one accent colour.
Key Points
01Cape Cod style is a loose label for coastal summer clothes, not a dress code or a social group.
02Navy, white and khaki form the base, with faded red as the signature accent.
03Boat shoes, invented by Paul Sperry in 1935, have cut soles made to grip a wet deck.
04Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket are separate islands from Cape Cod, with their own local twists on the look.
Cape Cod style is a label for the relaxed summer clothes of the New England coast: navy blazers, Oxford shirts, chinos, faded red cotton trousers, cable-knit jumpers and boat shoes, in navy, white, khaki and red.
It is a close cousin of preppy style, adapted for salt air, sun and boats.
Nobody needs a house on the Cape to wear it, and the clothes say nothing about anyone’s background; what makes them work is practical fabric, simple colours and good fit.
This guide explains where the look came from, how it compares with nearby coastal styles, the wardrobe to build, four seasonal outfits and a short glossary.
Where Cape Cod style came from
Cape Cod is a peninsula in Massachusetts, and its maritime history of fishing, whaling and sailing shaped the clothes worn there.
Working sailors and fishermen needed hard-wearing clothing: heavy wool jumpers, oilskin jackets and canvas trousers.
From the nineteenth century the Cape and the nearby islands also became summer destinations, and visitors brought lighter, more tailored holiday clothes.
The two traditions met in today’s look, which mixes working fabrics such as canvas and wool with blazers and Oxford shirts.
Our guide to fashion aesthetics explains how looks like this are named and grouped.
Nautical and Ivy influences
Brass-buttoned navy blazers, striped tops and boat shoes give the look its nautical feel.
The striped top itself is French: according to the maker Armor Lux, a French Navy decree of 27 March 1858 set out a striped knitted shirt for sailors.
New England’s colleges added Ivy League style: repp ties, Oxford cloth button-down shirts and penny loafers.
From working clothes to summer uniform
Nantucket Reds, brick-red canvas trousers made to fade to a dusty pink, were introduced around 1960 by Philip C. Murray of Murray’s Toggery Shop on Nantucket.
The Kennedy compound at Hyannis Port, on the Cape, served as President Kennedy’s summer White House, and photographs of the family sailing made Cape summers widely familiar.
People often contrast this relaxed look with old money and new money styles, but the clothes are simply practical summer wear that anyone can choose.
Cape Cod and similar coastal styles
The labels below are loose descriptions used by writers and shops, not fixed rules, and many people mix them.
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| Style | Feel | Colours | Typical details |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cape Cod | Relaxed, practical | Navy, white, khaki, faded red | Boat shoes, Oxford shirts, canvas belts, striped tops |
| Hamptons | Smarter resort dressing | Wider range, including pastels | Linen shirts and trousers, loafers, newer labels |
| Newport | Yachting-led | Navy, white, red | Blazers, needlepoint belts, club ties |
| Martha’s Vineyard | Casual island dressing | Mixed | Linen, faded cotton, relaxed accessories |
| Nantucket | Island classic | Navy, white, Nantucket Red | Faded red trousers, flag and whale motifs |
Cape Cod, the Hamptons and Newport
Cape Cod dressing is usually described as plainer and more practical than Hamptons resort wear, with navy, white and khaki as the base and red as the accent.
Hamptons outfits often use brighter colours, more linen and newer labels; a waxed or canvas jacket on the Cape might be a lightweight gilet in the Hamptons.
Newport, in Rhode Island, has a long sailing history, so its outfits lean towards blazers, club ties and needlepoint belts.
All three move easily from the beach to a yacht club, where a navy blazer is the usual step up.
Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket
Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket are islands off the Cape, in their own counties, although people often speak of “the Cape and Islands” together.
Martha’s Vineyard dressing is often more casual and mixed, while Nantucket is known for Nantucket Reds and small flag or whale motifs.
Cape Cod wardrobe essentials
Navy blazer
The navy blazer is the most useful single garment: single-breasted, in light hopsack wool for summer or flannel for cooler months, often with metal buttons.
Wear it with a polo shirt by day or an Oxford shirt and tie for a club dinner.
Chinos
Chinos in khaki or stone, with a slight taper and little or no break, go with boat shoes and loafers alike.
Nantucket Reds
Faded red cotton trousers or shorts are the look’s signature colour; wear them with navy and white so the red stays the only accent.
Oxford shirts
Oxford cloth button-down shirts in white, pale blue, pink or yellow work with everything else on this list.
Cable-knit jumpers
A cable-knit jumper in cream or navy is the evening layer when the sea breeze turns cool.
Boat shoes
Boat shoes were invented by Paul Sperry of New Haven, Connecticut, in 1935, with a cut rubber sole designed to grip a wet deck.
They are traditionally worn without socks; choose a pair with leather laces and keep them for dry land and decks rather than long walks.
Penny loafers
Penny loafers in brown leather are the dressier choice with chinos or a summer suit.
Canvas trainers
Plain white or navy canvas trainers suit beach walks and casual days.
Belts
Canvas belts with leather tabs, striped webbing belts and D-ring belts are the casual choices; a plain leather belt suits a blazer.
Watches and sunglasses
A simple steel watch on a strap, and wayfarer or aviator sunglasses on a retaining cord for days on a boat, are enough.
Caps and hats
A plain baseball cap keeps sun off on the water, and a straw hat with a brim suits a garden party.
Colours and patterns
Navy is the base colour, with white and khaki around it.
Faded red is the accent, joined by sea-glass green and yellow in small amounts.
Stripes appear on tops, shirts and ties, from fine Bengal stripes to wide Breton stripes.
Blue and white gingham suits summer shirts, and madras check appears in shirts and shorts.
Small motifs such as flags, whales or boats appear on ties and shorts; keep them to one garment per outfit.
Fabrics by season
Summer calls for cotton Oxford cloth, poplin, seersucker and linen; creases in linen belong to its relaxed look.
Lightweight merino or cotton knits cover cool summer evenings.
Cotton twill chinos work all year.
In autumn and winter, cord trousers, flannel and heavier wool knits take over.
Nantucket lightship baskets
The woven Nantucket lightship basket is often linked to the look.
Lightship crews on the Nantucket Shoals made many of the early baskets from the late 1860s, not lighthouse keepers, and the basket purse followed in the twentieth century.
Today they are collectable handmade objects rather than clothing, so they matter more to the island’s craft history than to an outfit.
Cape Cod outfit ideas by season
Spring
Wear: a navy hopsack blazer, a pale blue Oxford cloth button-down shirt, stone chinos, a striped webbing belt and brown leather penny loafers.
Carry a lightweight waterproof jacket, because spring weather on the coast changes quickly.
Summer
Wear: a white cotton piqué polo shirt, faded red cotton shorts or chinos, a canvas belt and brown leather boat shoes without socks.
For a club dinner, add a navy blazer and swap the polo shirt for a white Oxford shirt.
Autumn
Wear: a cream cable-knit jumper over a blue Oxford shirt, khaki chinos or olive cord trousers, a navy quilted or waxed jacket and brown suede boots.
Winter
Wear: a navy wool pea coat, a navy or cream fisherman’s jumper over a white Oxford shirt, grey flannel or cord trousers, brown leather boots, a wool scarf and leather gloves.
Cape Cod style dos and don’ts
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| Do | Don’t |
|---|---|
| Build outfits around navy, white, khaki and one accent such as faded red | Wear several bright colours or neon at once |
| Choose cotton, linen and wool that cope with sun and salt air | Buy clothes for a logo alone |
| Keep nautical motifs small and to one garment | Dress head to toe in anchors and flags |
| Layer a jumper or blazer for cool evenings | Get caught out by sea breezes after sunset |
| Have trousers and shorts hemmed to the right length | Wear trousers that pool over boat shoes |
| Let some garments look worn in | Let the whole outfit look shabby |
Cape Cod style and related looks
Cape Cod dressing shares garments with several other classic styles covered on The VOU.
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| Style | What it shares with Cape Cod style |
|---|---|
| American Ivy and preppy | Oxford shirts, chinos, loafers, repp ties |
| Equestrian style | Leather belts and shoes, earthy autumn colours |
| Sloane Ranger | Waxed jackets, knitwear, weekend country clothes |
| Parisian chic | Breton stripes, simple accessories, few logos |
| Italian classic dressing | Summer tailoring, linen, loafers without socks |
People associated with the look
The Kennedy family
The Kennedy compound at Hyannis Port is a well-known link between one family and Cape Cod summers.
Photographs of the family sailing and relaxing there are often used as reference for casual coastal clothes such as polo shirts, chinos and knitwear.
Philip C. Murray
Philip C. Murray of Murray’s Toggery Shop introduced Nantucket Reds around 1960, designed to fade to a soft pink with wear and washing.
Shep and Ian Murray
The brothers Shep and Ian Murray started Vineyard Vines in 1998 by selling neckties on Martha’s Vineyard, and the brand’s whale and boat motifs became a familiar sight in preppy wardrobes.
Cape Cod style glossary
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| Term | Meaning | Why it matters for outfits |
|---|---|---|
| Nantucket Reds | Faded red cotton trousers or shorts | The look’s signature accent colour |
| Seersucker | Puckered cotton, usually striped | Cool summer jackets, suits and shirts |
| Grosgrain | Ribbed fabric used for ribbons | Watch straps and belt details |
| OCBD | Oxford cloth button-down shirt | The everyday shirt of the look |
| Dock and dine | A waterfront restaurant you can reach by boat | Outfits need to work on a deck and at a table |
| On island, off island | Being on or away from Nantucket or Martha’s Vineyard | Island days are usually more casual |
| GTH trousers | Brightly coloured or patterned trousers | The playful side of the look |
| Weathered | Gently worn, faded garments | A lived-in look is welcome on canvas and cotton |
| Lightship basket | Woven basket associated with the crews of the Nantucket lightship | A craft object rather than an outfit accessory |
| Repp tie | Silk tie with diagonal stripes | Adds colour to an Oxford shirt and blazer |
| Madras | Lightweight cotton check | Summer shirts and shorts |
| Croakies | Retaining cord for sunglasses | Keeps sunglasses on a boat |
| Navy blazer | Single-breasted jacket, often with metal buttons | The step up for dinners and clubs |
Practical tips
Leather laces on boat shoes last longer than cotton ones and soften with wear.
A canvas and leather belt in full-grain leather wears in rather than wearing out.
New Nantucket Reds start bright and fade over many washes, so buy them for the long run.
If you wear a club tie or blazer badge, make sure it belongs to a club you are a member of.
J. Press, the Ivy clothier founded in New Haven in 1902, is one of the shops that shaped the New England college look.
Conclusion
Cape Cod style is practical summer clothing from the New England coast: navy, white, khaki and faded red, in cotton, linen and wool.
Start with a navy blazer, two Oxford shirts, khaki chinos, one pair of faded red trousers, a cable-knit jumper and boat shoes.
Add layers for the evening breeze, keep motifs small and let a few garments fade with wear.
Style with The VOU
If you would like help applying this style to your own wardrobe, take our three quizzes, then book a consultation if you want personal help.
1. Check your body shape
Our guide to dressing for your body shape explains how proportions and silhouettes affect the way clothes look on you.
Check your body shape with the body shape quiz for men.
2. Find your seasonal colours
Our seasonal colour analysis guide explains how colour seasons are used to choose shades for the outfits you put together.
Find your seasonal colours with the seasonal colour quiz for men.
3. Take the fashion style quiz
Take the fashion style quiz for men to see which personal fashion styles match your taste.
None of the quizzes is needed to wear the outfits in this guide.
Paid consultations
Our styling services for men are paid consultations; the shop page lists what each one includes.
You can read about The VOU’s image consultants and fashion stylists.
Our articles explain what an image consultant does and how to choose an image consultant.
Our guide to styling by occasion, location, season and time of day explains how to combine garments, footwear and accessories.
A label alone does not make an outfit work, as our articles on luxury brands favoured by ultra-high-net-worth buyers and how logo-heavy luxury designs come across discuss.
You can contact us with any questions.