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What’s This About
The Old Money look is quiet, classic and lightly branded, while the New Money look is bold, logo-led and follows current fashion.
This guide compares the two labels and the national versions of the classic look, such as
How branding, colour and shoes differ between the two
The British Sloane Ranger look and where the term comes from
French BCBG and relaxed Italian tailoring
The American Ivy League and Preppy version
How designer collaborations blurred the line
and many more!
Both are labels for clothes, not facts about the people who wear them.
Key Points
01Neither look shows how anyone got their money, how much they have or how they were raised.
02The Old Money look has British, French, Italian and American versions, each with typical garments and labels.
03The same house can make both plain and logo-led goods, so a brand name alone does not place an outfit.
04Fit and care matter more than labels in either look.
Old Money and New Money are two labels for ways of dressing, with one quiet, classic and lightly branded and the other bold, logo-led and close to current fashion.
The phrases themselves describe money, not clothes. Merriam-Webster defines old money as people whose families have been rich for a long time.
As clothing labels, they tell you about a style of dress, never about how the wearer got their money, how much they have or how they were raised.
This guide sets out the key stylistic differences between the two looks, then shows how the Old Money look varies between Britain, France, Italy and the United States, with an outfit for each.
The Old Money look of understated classics
The Old Money style draws on British tailoring and country clothes, American Ivy League dress and classic French and Italian menswear.
It overlaps with what fashion writers call quiet luxury, meaning well-made clothes with small logos or none.
The aim is a small wardrobe of garments that fit well, mix easily and last for years.
The Old Money colour palette leans on navy, grey, camel, cream and brown, with hunter green and burgundy as accents.
Patterns are traditional, such as herringbone, houndstooth and small paisley on ties and pocket squares.
Tailoring is central, from bespoke and made-to-measure suits to well-altered blazers and trousers bought ready to wear, and these garments form the base of an Old Money wardrobe.
Labels often named for the contemporary Old Money aesthetic include Brunello Cucinelli, Ralph Lauren Purple Label and Loro Piana, although plain, well-made clothes in cashmere, wool and cotton exist at every price.
Accessories are small and plain, much as in the original Preppy wardrobe, with a leather belt, a simple watch and perhaps a signet ring.
Leather goods from heritage brands such as Hermès, Goyard and Valextra, and watches from makers such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger-LeCoultre, are often cited as references, but a plain belt and a simple watch create the same effect in an outfit.
The New Money look, bold and fashion-led
The New Money look follows current designer collections, luxury streetwear and celebrity styling, which our guide to Old Money and New Money fashion compares garment by garment.
Visible branding is central, from monogram prints to large logos on belts, trainers and bags.
Labels often linked with the look include Gucci, Balenciaga and Off-White, along with designer collaborations and limited editions.
Colours can be bright, with metallics, strong patterns and graphic prints.
Streetwear shapes such as hoodies, track tops and oversized T-shirts sit next to tailoring.
Accessories are made to be noticed, such as chunky designer trainers, oversized sunglasses and large logo belt buckles.
The same house can appear on both sides. Hermès is known for plain leather goods, but its H-buckle belt is a recognisable logo, which our guide to Hermès products for men covers.
Social media spreads the look quickly, because new designs and collaborations are photographed and shared as soon as they are released.
Neither look is better taste in itself; they suit different occasions and different interests.
Key differences at a glance
The table describes typical clothes for each label, not rules for anyone’s wardrobe.
Scroll horizontally to see all columns →
| Feature | Old Money look | New Money look |
|---|---|---|
| Branding | Small logos or none | Large logos, monograms, collaborations |
| Colour | Navy, grey, camel, cream, brown, hunter green, burgundy | Bright colours, metallics, black and white contrast |
| Pattern | Herringbone, houndstooth, small paisley | Logo prints, graphics, bold prints |
| Tailoring | Classic cut, from structured British to soft Italian and natural-shouldered Ivy, altered to fit | Follows the season, from very slim to oversized |
| Shoes | Leather and suede loafers, Oxfords, brogues | Chunky designer trainers, branded loafers |
| Accessories | Plain watch, leather belt, signet ring | Large watches, logo buckles, oversized sunglasses |
| Change over time | Slow; garments stay in use for years | Fast; follows new collections and releases |
Regional variations of the Old Money look
The Old Money look has several national versions, each with its own garments and labels.
The British Sloane Ranger look
“Sloane Ranger” comes from a 1975 Harpers & Queen article and was popularised by The Official Sloane Ranger Handbook in 1982, as the Wikipedia entry on the term records.
The name, a pun on Sloane Square in Chelsea and the Lone Ranger, described young people around west London who dressed in conservative heritage clothes.
The look mixes the original Preppy wardrobe with country clothes, and our guide to British Old Money brands lists the labels most often linked with it.
Typical garments include waxed cotton jackets, Hunter boots and trench coats, worn in town as well as in the country.
For formal occasions, the British version relies on well-fitted tailoring and shirts from Jermyn Street makers such as Turnbull & Asser.
A signet ring, sometimes engraved with initials or a crest, and a plain watch on a leather or fabric strap are typical accessories.
Wear a navy blazer, a blue Oxford shirt, beige cord trousers, brown suede brogues and a waxed jacket for wet days.
French BCBG
BCBG, short for bon chic bon genre, drew wide attention in France in the 1980s, helped by Thierry Mantoux’s 1985 guide to the style, according to the Wikipedia entry on BCBG.
The style is conservative and classic, influenced by British and American clothes, with neutral colours and plain, well-cut garments.
Typical garments include a navy blazer, a white or light blue shirt, straight grey or beige trousers, a navy jumper over the shoulders and leather loafers.
French heritage brands such as Hermès are often named, for example for a silk scarf or a plain leather bag, and a slim dress watch such as a Cartier or Jaeger-LeCoultre is a common reference.
Wear a navy blazer, a white shirt, beige chinos, brown loafers and a navy crew-neck jumper over the shoulders.
Italian relaxed tailoring
Italian Old Money style shares the tailoring of the classic British aristocratic look but wears it more softly, with lighter jackets and a touch of sprezzatura, the art of making care look effortless.
Menswear writers often point to photographs of Gianni Agnelli as a reference for this look, especially his tailoring; he was often photographed wearing his watch over his shirt cuff.
Typical garments include soft-shouldered suits in textured wool or linen, shirts with subtle stripes or texture, and suede or leather loafers.
Labels often named include Brioni, Kiton, Bottega Veneta, Tod’s and Car Shoe, with Persol sunglasses and, for some, vintage watches from makers such as Rolex or Omega.
Wear a grey soft-shouldered suit, a light blue shirt with no tie, dark brown suede loafers and tortoiseshell sunglasses.
American Ivy League and Preppy
The American version is close to the Preppy style and the clothes worn at Ivy League universities in the mid-twentieth century.
Typical garments include navy blazers, khaki chinos, Oxford cloth button-down shirts and penny loafers.
American heritage brands such as Brooks Brothers, J. Press and Ralph Lauren are the usual references, with New York clothiers such as Paul Stuart for tailoring.
Accessories stay simple and include a leather belt, tortoiseshell glasses from makers such as Oliver Peoples or Moscot, and a watch from a brand with American roots such as Hamilton or Bulova, or a classic Swiss maker.
Wear a navy blazer, a white Oxford button-down, khaki chinos, burgundy penny loafers and a repp-striped tie for smarter days.
What the labels do not tell you
Writing about old and new money often goes beyond clothes, to schools, clubs, holidays, manners and how people give to charity.
None of these can be read from an outfit, and many people dress in both ways at different times, so this guide sticks to the clothes.
The country and sailing clothes linked with the Old Money look come from settings such as the British countryside and Newport’s yacht clubs, but you do not need to go to either to wear a waxed jacket or a pair of boat shoes.
Likewise, a logo-led New Money outfit shows an interest in current fashion, not where the money to buy it came from.
Where the two looks meet
The line between the two looks has blurred as heritage houses have borrowed from streetwear.
In January 2017, Louis Vuitton showed a menswear collection made with the streetwear brand Supreme, designed under Kim Jones, as FashionNetwork reported at the time.
At Gucci, Alessandro Michele, creative director from 2015 to 2022, brought an eclectic, maximalist look to a house that had long made classic loafers and leather goods.
In the other direction, the “quiet luxury” trend of 2023 made plain, logo-free clothes fashionable, helped by the costumes of the HBO series Succession, as CNBC reported.
Some shoppers now also choose by how clothes are made, and labels such as Stella McCartney and Gabriela Hearst publicise their sustainability work, which cuts across both labels.
How to use the differences
Choose by where you need to dress and what you like wearing, rather than by what you want other people to assume about you.
For a classic base, start with a navy blazer, an Oxford shirt, grey or khaki trousers and brown loafers, then add the regional garments you enjoy.
If you like fashion-led clothes, add one bold garment or accessory at a time to that base, so the outfit stays easy to wear.
Whatever you choose, fit and care matter more than labels, so alter jackets and trousers where needed and keep shoes clean and polished.
The final word
Old Money and New Money are two ends of a range, from quiet classics to bold, branded fashion.
Take ideas from either side, or from the British, French, Italian and American versions, and build a wardrobe that suits your work, your weather and your taste.