Aristotle Onassis stands unrivalled in the pantheon of 20th-century style icons as the Greek shipping tycoon of masculine elegance, setting the gold standard for men of wealth and power.
And, for stylish modern men who seek to embody true aristocratic refinement and old-money elegance, studying Onassis and his unique wardrobe is paramount.
From the bustling ports of Monaco to the sun-drenched decks of his yacht, Christina O, his attire exuded success, understated luxury, and an aura of unassailable triumph.
In this article, we delve into the essence of Onassis’s style, offering you a comprehensive guide to emulate his aristocratic elegance.
We examine the key elements of his look, from expertly cut Caraceni double-breasted suits to his casual ensembles on the French Riviera.
Understanding and adapting Onassis’s sartorial philosophy will allow you to craft a wardrobe that commands respect and admiration in any setting, from corporate boardrooms to exclusive yacht clubs.
The Onassis Look
At the heart of Aristotle Onassis’s sartorial legacy lies a wardrobe built on impeccable tailoring, luxurious fabrics, and understated accessories that depict wealth and sophistication.
The cornerstone of his style was the bespoke double-breasted suit, meticulously crafted by the renowned Milanese tailor Caraceni.
Caraceni’s suits, in navy blue or charcoal grey worsted wool, featured wide peaked lapels, a nipped waist, and a slightly longer jacket that elegantly concealed Onassis’s compact 5’5″ frame.
Complementing his suits, Onassis favoured perfectly pressed white shirts from Turnbull & Asser, worn with the collar open to project a relaxed confidence.
His neckwear of choice was the knitted silk tie, usually in solid navy or black, providing a subtle textural contrast to the smooth finish of his suit.
For footwear, Onassis relied on handcrafted black leather oxfords from London’s John Lobb, their sleek lines harmonising perfectly with his tailored trousers.
On the sun-drenched shores of the French Riviera, Onassis’s casual attire was no less considered, with lightweight linen trousers in pristine white and unbuttoned polo shirts in muted tones of ecru or light blue.
He paired the outfits with Gucci’s horsebit loafers – worn sockless for a touch of Mediterranean nonchalance – and thick-framed sunglasses custom-made by François Pinton, which became an iconic part of his image.
Whether in the boardroom or on his yacht, Onassis’s wrist invariably bore a Patek Philippe or Omega timepiece, their understated elegance as a subtle reminder of his discerning taste and immense wealth.
His dedication to sartorial excellence extended to every aspect of his appearance, from his meticulously groomed salt-and-pepper hair to the perfectly folded white linen pocket square that adorned his suit jacket.
Onassis’s Journey from Rags to Riches
To fully appreciate Aristotle Onassis’s iconic style, one must understand the remarkable journey that shaped his sartorial choices.
His rise from humble beginnings to the pinnacle of wealth and influence informed every aspect of his carefully cultivated image.
From Smyrna to Buenos Aires – The Birth of an Ambition
Born in 1906 in Smyrna (now Izmir, Turkey), Onassis’s early life was far removed from the luxury he would later embody.
The 1922 destruction of Smyrna by Turkish forces saw the Onassis family lose everything, fleeing with only the clothes on their backs.
This traumatic experience instilled in young Aristotle a burning desire for security and success reflected later in his preference for imposing double-breasted suits that acted as a status symbol and emotional armour.
Early Business Ventures – Cultivating the Look of Success
Arriving penniless in Buenos Aires, Onassis worked as a telephone operator by night and frequented upscale venues daily.
During this period, he began to understand the power of appearance in opening doors.
He invested in his first tailored suit, recognising it as a crucial tool for gaining entry into influential circles.
This early lesson in dressing for success would stay with him throughout his life.
The Tobacco Deal – Dressing the Part
Onassis’s first major business coup came with his tobacco import deal.
To negotiate with Greek tobacco growers, he dressed in a manner that projected confidence and wealth beyond his means.
His choice of a well-cut suit, crisp white shirt, and polished shoes helped him secure the trust needed to broker the deal to make his first million by age 25.
Entering the Shipping World – The Evolution of Onassis Style
As Onassis entered the shipping industry in the 1930s, his style evolved to match his new status.
He began to favour British tailoring, often seen in Savile Row suits that spoke of old-world craftsmanship.
His move to New York saw him incorporate elements of American styles, such as the occasional button-down oxford shirt, while retaining his European flair.
The Pinnacle of Success – Refining the Onassis Look
By the 1950s, with his shipping empire firmly established, Onassis had honed his signature style.
His patronage of Caraceni in Milan for his suits, Turnbull & Asser for shirts, and John Lobb for shoes reflected his wealth and his discerning taste and appreciation for the finest craftsmanship.
The consistency of his look – the navy suits, the open-necked white shirts, the ever-present sunglasses – became a personal brand as recognisable as his business achievements.
Onassis’s journey from refugee to tycoon is reflected in every aspect of his iconic style.
His clothing choices were not mere vanity but a carefully constructed image of resilience, ambition, and ultimate triumph.
By understanding this context, one can appreciate the depth of meaning behind each element of the Onassis look, from the protective bulk of his double-breasted jackets to the quiet confidence of his understated accessories.
Onassis’s Lifestyle
Aristotle Onassis’s style extended far beyond his clothing choices, encompassing a lifestyle that reinforced his image as the epitome of old-money elegance.
Understanding these aspects of his life provides a crucial context for fully appreciating and emulating his sartorial choices.
The Christina O – A Floating Palace of Style
Central to Onassis’s image was his yacht, the Christina O. This 325-foot vessel, converted from a Canadian naval frigate, symbolised his wealth and taste.
The yacht’s interiors, designed by Cäsar Pinnau, featured traditional nautical elements and opulent touches.
Onassis often entertained guests in the Lapis Lazuli Lounge, where the bar was topped with whale teeth and stools upholstered in fine leather from the foreskins of whales.
Onassis’ blends of traditional furniture with striking, exotic pieces adorned with luxurious elements mirrored his dressing style and unique sprezzatura touch.
Monte Carlo – Onassis’s Playground
Onassis’s influence extended to his adopted home of Monte Carlo.
As a major shareholder in the Société des Bains de Mer, which controlled the Monte Carlo Casino and the Hôtel de Paris, Onassis shaped the principality’s image as a playground for the wealthy.
His regular appearances at the Casino, impeccably dressed in a midnight blue tuxedo with a black bow tie, set the standard for evening wear in the principality.
The Hôtel de Paris’s Bar Américain became his unofficial office, where he would conduct business deals over glasses of Johnnie Walker Black Label, his preferred scotch.
Social Circles and Relationships
Onassis’s romantic entanglements with some of the world’s most famous women further cemented his status as a style icon.
His relationship with opera diva Maria Callas saw him frequently photographed at the world’s most prestigious opera houses, always in impeccable black tie attire.
Later, his marriage to Jacqueline Kennedy brought him into the orbit of American political royalty, influencing his style to incorporate more elements of East Coast prep, such as the occasional rep tie or tailored blazer.
The Art of Leisure
Even in his leisure activities, Onassis maintained his commitment to style.
Whether playing backgammon on the deck of the Christina O or sunbathing on the beaches of Skorpios, his private island, the mogul was always perfectly dressed.
For beach wear, he favoured tailored swim trunks in navy or white, paired with a short-sleeved linen shirt left casually unbuttoned.
His beach accessories often included a pair of espadrilles and a finely woven straw Panama hat, demonstrating that elegance need not be sacrificed for comfort.
By understanding these aspects of Onassis’s lifestyle, one can appreciate how every element of his life was curated to project an image of sophistication and success.
This holistic approach to style, encompassing not just clothing but every aspect of one’s life and surroundings, is the true secret to embodying the Onassis aesthetic.
How to Dress Like Onassis
Formal Attire
For formal occasions, emulate Onassis’s signature look with a navy blue double-breasted suit made from high-quality worsted wool.
Seek a skilled tailor to recreate the wide peaked lapels, suppressed waist, and slightly elongated jacket that defined Onassis’s Caraceni suits.
Pair this with a crisp white cotton dress shirt featuring a moderate spread collar from Turnbull & Asser.
Complete the ensemble with a knitted silk tie in solid navy or black, and finish the look with leather Oxford shoes from John Lobb.
Casual Elegance
For a relaxed Riviera-inspired look, choose well-cut white linen trousers paired with a polo shirt in neutral tones such as ecru or light blue.
Brown leather horsebit loafers worn without socks capture Onassis’s effortless summer style.
Add a pair of bold, thick-framed sunglasses reminiscent of Onassis’s François Pinton originals to complete this casual yet refined outfit.
Accessories
Regardless of the outfit, wear a classic dress watch with a leather strap from a prestigious Swiss manufacturer like Patek Philippe or Omega.
For the finishing touch, add a white linen pocket square to your suit jacket, folded simply for understated elegance.
Onassis Style – Tools of Confidence and Success
Aristotle Onassis’s style transcended mere clothing; it was a powerful tool for communication and influence.
His sartorial choices projected an image of unassailable success and quiet authority in every setting.
To truly embody the Onassis aesthetic, one must understand and apply the principles behind his wardrobe decisions.
The Double-Breasted Suit as Armour
Onassis’s preference for double-breasted suits was no accident, as the suits’ overlapping front panels and peaked lapels create an imposing silhouette that commands attention.
Onassis often left his suit jacket buttoned when entering a room, maintaining a sleek, unbroken line from shoulder to hip.
This practice flattered his physique and presented a fortified front to the world.
Old Money Colours
The shipping magnate’s colour palette was deliberate and refined.
Navy blue suits dominated his wardrobe, a colour choice that conveyed trustworthiness and authority.
For evening events, he often opted for a midnight blue tuxedo rather than traditional black, a subtle distinction that set him apart in dimly lit rooms.
His consistent use of white shirts created a stark, clean contrast that drew attention to his face, enhancing his presence in conversations and negotiations.
Accessorising Well
Onassis understood the power of subtle details; his François Pinton sunglasses with distinctive thick frames became a signature accessory that added an air of mystery and allure.
He wore them even indoors at times, using them as a tool to control his gaze and maintain a mysterious demeanour during high-stakes business dealings.
His choice of timepieces, alternating between a Patek Philippe Calatrava and an Omega De Ville, spoke of discerning taste without ostentation.
While undoubtedly expensive, these watches were chosen for their elegant simplicity rather than flashy complications.
Casual Power Dressing
Even in casual settings, Onassis maintained his aura of authority.
On his yacht, he favoured crisp white trousers paired with navy blue polo shirts, which echoed the colours of his formal wear while adapting to the nautical setting.
This consistency in colour choice across formal and casual wear created a cohesive personal brand that was immediately recognisable.
Conclusion
Aristotle Onassis’s sartorial legacy offers more than just a blueprint for dressing well; it provides a masterclass in projecting power, confidence, and sophistication through one’s appearance.
As we navigate the complexities of the 21st century, the lessons drawn from Onassis’s style remain remarkably relevant.
The Timeless Appeal of Quality
In an age of fast fashion and disposable trends, Onassis’s commitment to quality and craftsmanship stands out as a beacon of sustainable style.
Invest in well-made pieces from renowned tailors like Caraceni, shirtmakers like Turnbull & Asser, and shoemakers like John Lobb to elevate your appearance and style.
A bespoke navy double-breasted suit cut to perfection, will serve you as well today as it did Onassis in the boardrooms of Monte Carlo.
The Power of Consistency
Onassis’s adherence to a clear sartorial identity – the navy suits, the crisp white shirts, the signature Pinton sunglasses – created an instantly recognisable personal brand.
This lesson is particularly pertinent in today’s personal branding and social media presence.
By developing your consistent style inspired by Onassis’s example, you can create a powerful visual shorthand for your personal and professional identity.
Adapting Onassis Style for Contemporary Settings
While Onassis’s exact wardrobe might not suit every modern context, his principles can be adapted.
For instance, in more casual work environments, the power of his naval-inspired colour palette can be translated into well-fitted navy blazers paired with crisp white shirts and grey trousers.
The key is maintaining the spirit of understated luxury and impeccable fit that defines Onassis’s look.
Beyond Clothing
Perhaps the most valuable lesson from Onassis’s style is that elegance extends beyond wardrobe choices, encompassing your surroundings, habits, and demeanour.
Cultivate environments that reflect your taste and success, whether it’s through well-appointed office spaces or carefully chosen vacation destinations.
Develop habits that speak to refinement and self-assurance, from conducting meetings to entertaining guests.
Confidence
Ultimately, what made Onassis’s style so compelling was the confidence with which he wore it.
His clothing choices were an extension of his self-assurance, not the source of it.
As you incorporate elements of Onassis style into your wardrobe and life, remember that the most crucial accessory is the conviction with which you carry yourself.
By studying and adapting Aristotle Onassis’s approach to style, you’re not just updating your wardrobe; you’re embracing a philosophy of life.
It’s an approach that values quality over quantity, consistency over trends, and quiet confidence over loud statements.
In doing so, you’ll not only look the part of a modern aristocrat but embody the timeless elegance that made Onassis an enduring icon of style.
Styling Beyond Aristotle Onassis
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