In the annals of menswear history, few figures loom as large as George Bryan “Beau” Brummell (1778-1840).
Beau Brummell – an English gentleman, dandy, and style icon – was a true influencer whose sartorial wisdom shaped fashion trends for generations, particularly the aesthetic now known as the “Old Money” look.
Brummell’s life and style have been the subject of numerous books, films, and TV shows, including the 1954 movie “Beau Brummell” starring Stewart Granger and Elizabeth Taylor.
I believe that Brummell’s influence on contemporary menswear, especially the refined elegance associated with Old Money style, is still felt today, and his statue on London’s Jermyn Street stands as a testament to his enduring legacy.
The Early Years and Rise to Fame
Born in London to a middle-class family, Beau Brummell defied the odds to become a style legend.
He attended Eton College, where he first displayed his penchant for sartorial innovation by accessorizing the traditional white cravat with a gold buckle.
Though not an aristocrat by birth, Brummell’s father’s connections and his own wit and charm paved the way for his social ascent.
After inheriting a considerable fortune, Brummell joined the 10th Royal Hussars cavalry regiment, a move that would change his life.
His aim was to befriend the regiment’s patron, the Prince of Wales, future King George IV.
Brummell’s style and humor impressed the Prince, and their close friendship catapulted him to the upper echelons of English society.
The Arbiter of Men’s Fashion
In London, Brummell became the undisputed authority on men’s fashion.
He played a pivotal role in the “Great Male Renunciation,” a movement that rejected the flamboyant, French-influenced styles of the time.
Instead, Brummell advocated for a more understated, tailored look that emphasized fit, quality, and simplicity – the very principles that would later define the Old Money aesthetic.
He favored plain shirts, waistcoats, cravats, full-length trousers, and boots, eschewing the ornate embellishments that were once the hallmark of men’s fashion.
His famous ensembles featuring a blue coat, buff waistcoat, white linen shirt, and dark riding boots have become the stuff of menswear legend.
Brummell’s attention to detail and insistence on perfect fit set a new standard for gentlemen’s attire, one that Old Money adherents still aspire to today.
The Wit and Wisdom of Beau Brummell
Brummell was renowned not only for his style but also for his wit. His musings on fashion, known as “Brummellisms,” were eagerly collected by his admirers.
One of his most famous quips, “If John Bull turns around to look at you, you are not well dressed, but either too stiff, too tight, or too fashionable,” remains a guiding principle for many men today, particularly those who embrace the understated elegance of the Old Money look.
We often share this wisdom with our clients, reminding them that true style, in the spirit of Old Money, is about effortless elegance, not attention-seeking gimmicks.
From his perch at the famous Bow Window at White’s Club in London, Brummell would cast his discerning eye upon the outfits of passing gentlemen, offering praise or scathing criticism as he saw fit.
This window became known as the “Beau Window,” a testament to Brummell’s influence and authority.
The Fall from Grace
Despite his many talents, Brummell was not without his flaws.
His extravagant lifestyle and gambling habits eventually caught up with him, and he found himself drowning in debt.
A falling out with the Prince Regent, whom he had once famously snubbed by asking “Alvanley, who’s your fat friend?” only worsened his situation.
In 1816, facing arrest for his debts, Brummell fled to France, where he would spend the remainder of his life.
Despite assistance from friends, he struggled with poverty and declining health, eventually dying penniless in a French asylum in 1840.
It’s a tragic end for a man who had once been the toast of London society, but it serves as a cautionary tale about the fleeting nature of fame and fortune.
The Enduring Legacy of Beau Brummell
Though Beau Brummell’s life ended in tragedy, his influence on menswear, particularly the Old Money aesthetic, has only grown stronger with time.
His name has become synonymous with the understated elegance, quality, and attention to detail that characterize Old Money style.
His story has inspired countless products, songs, and cultural references, cementing his status as a menswear icon.
Brummell’s emphasis on simplicity, fit, and quality over ostentation remains the cornerstone of Old Money fashion today.
He popularized the suit, introduced full-length trousers, and favored a more contemporary shirt with an elaborately tied cravat, setting the stage for the modern Old Money wardrobe, which is built around well-tailored jackets, trousers, and impeccably crafted accessories.
Key Lessons from Beau Brummell’s Style
There are several key lessons we can learn from Beau Brummell’s approach to fashion and how they apply to achieving the Old Money look:
- Embrace the cravat – The cravat, or its modern equivalent, the necktie, is a key element of Old Money style. It can add a touch of effortless elegance to any formal outfit. Experiment with different materials, colors, and knots to find what works best for you.
- Focus on fit – Brummell’s emphasis on perfectly tailored clothing is a central tenet of Old Money style. Invest in well-fitting jackets, trousers, and shirts that flatter your physique, and don’t be afraid to have them tailored to achieve the ideal fit.
- Quality over quantity – The Old Money approach to building a wardrobe is about investing in a few high-quality, versatile pieces that will stand the test of time. Seek out the best materials, like wool, cashmere, and fine cotton, and look for signs of excellent craftsmanship, such as hand-stitching and careful attention to detail.
- Cultivate understated elegance – Old Money style is about quiet luxury, not flashy logos or trends. Follow Brummell’s lead and opt for classic colors, patterns, and silhouettes that convey refinement without screaming for attention.
- Pay attention to grooming – Brummell was famous for his meticulous grooming habits, and this attention to personal care is a hallmark of Old Money style. Invest in quality skincare, haircare, and fragrance, and always strive to present a polished, put-together appearance.
Conclusion
Beau Brummell’s life and style left an indelible mark on menswear, and his influence is particularly evident in the Old Money aesthetic.
His commitment to elegance, simplicity, and quality continues to captivate fashion enthusiasts today.
By following in his footsteps and incorporating his timeless lessons into our own wardrobes, we can all channel a bit of Brummell’s sartorial brilliance and cultivate the effortless sophistication that is the essence of Old Money chic.
Though his story ended in tragedy, Beau Brummell’s legacy as a style icon and the forefather of the Old Money look will endure for generations to come.