Is Lacoste Still Considered a Luxury Brand?

Is Lacoste Luxury or Not?

On a balmy summer afternoon in 1933, French tennis champion René Lacoste stepped onto the court wearing a revolutionary garment—a short-sleeved, cotton piqué shirt emblazoned with a small crocodile emblem.

It was the moment that gave birth to an iconic brand that would dominate the luxury sportswear market for decades.

However, as we approach the centenary of that fateful day, a pertinent question emerges:

Is Lacoste still a super luxury brand?

Once a hallmark of upper-class leisure and sophisticated taste, Lacoste has an ambiguous image, confusing stylish men wanting to wear the brand as a signifier of high social status.

In this article, we delve deep into the heart of the Lacoste brand to see if it’s still a symbol of a refined, old-money aesthetic, and showcase Lacoste’s place in the modern gentleman’s wardrobe.

Lacoste’s Heritage

The story of Lacoste is inextricably linked with the story of its founder, René Lacoste.

Nicknamed ‘The Crocodile’ for his tenacity on the tennis court, Lacoste was more than just an athlete; he was an innovator.

Frustrated with the stiff, long-sleeved shirts that were de rigueur in tennis at the time, he set out to create something more comfortable and practical.

The result was the L.12.12 polo shirt—a garment that would revolutionise initially the tennis attire, and later on, the entire landscape of casual wear.

The shirt’s name is a testament to Lacoste’s meticulous approach: ‘L’ for Lacoste, ‘1’ for the unique piqué cotton fabric, ‘2’ for the short-sleeved design, and ’12’ for the number of prototypes created.

This attention to detail and pursuit of perfection would become hallmarks of the Lacoste brand.

From its inception, Lacoste was positioned as a purveyor of premium sportswear, a concept that was relatively novel in the 1930s.

The brand’s crocodile logo—inspired by René’s nickname—became one of the first examples of visible branding on clothing, predating the ubiquitous designer logos of today by several decades.

As the years passed, Lacoste expanded beyond the tennis court and by the 1950s, the brand was synonymous with a novel kind of understated fashion, the sporty chic style.

The new look was immediately embraced by President Eisenhower and Bing Crosby, lending it an air of casual sophistication that it retains to this day.

The brand’s journey from the tennis court to the streets of Paris and beyond is a testament to its adaptability.

In the 1960s, as casual wear became increasingly accepted in everyday life, Lacoste was perfectly positioned to capitalise on this shift.

The Lacoste polo shirt, once a purely athletic garment, became a staple of the well-dressed man’s casual wardrobe and the “European Preppy” garment for the old continent’s high social classes.

Today, Lacoste’s heritage continues to inform its identity.

Over the years, Lacoste has shown at Paris Fashion Week and collaborated with cutting-edge designers but has never strayed far from its roots in sporty elegance.

This unique balance between tradition and innovation is what makes Lacoste’s so special in the realm of modern old money fashion and style.

Quality and Craftsmanship

At the heart of any luxury brand lies an unwavering commitment to quality and craftsmanship but Lacoste’s case is a complicated one.

The brand’s reputation was built on the superior construction and durability of its polo shirts.

For example in the case of the iconic L.12.12 polo shirt, the fabric is a breathable and durable cotton piqué developed specifically for Lacoste.

The collar is crafted to retain shape, even after multiple washes—a feature that any gentleman who has dealt with the frustration of a curling collar can appreciate.

The buttons are made from mother-of-pearl, adding a subtle touch of luxury.

Another example of Lacoste’s high-quality product is knitwear, particularly, the brand’s iconic collar contrast tennis sweaters.

However, not all Lacoste products are of the same high quality and that’s an issue caused by the brand’s manufacturing locations and processes.

Most Lacost products are still made in France, especially the brand’s premium line and the ‘Made in France’ collections.

When locally produced, the brand has stricter quality controls and maintains the brand’s image of genuine French heritage.

However, like many high-end clothing brands, Lacoste outsources some products to countries with lower labour costs, to maintain market affordability and cut down costs.

While this approach allows the brand to maintain more competitive pricing, it causes some inconsistencies in quality.

Paul, one of our clients and long-time Lacoste buyer shared, “I have seven Lacoste polos and some knitwear I bought on my travels across the world. Some Polo shirts feel like disposables, kind of ‘one summer shirt’ at the best of times. However, their knitwear is super high quality.”

That’s why you should always pay attention to the country of origin when purchasing Lacoste products.

Lacoste’s Price Point

In the realm of luxury goods, price is a key indicator of a brand’s positioning and Lacoste occupies an interesting space in this regard.

The brand straddles between accessible premium and entry-level luxury but this pricing approach is a source of ambiguity when it comes to the brand’s image of status conferring.

For example, classic Lacoste polo shirts retail for around $110, placing them well above high-street brands but far below the prices of traditional luxury fashion houses.

Similarly, Lacoste sweaters might set you back $170-$240, while leather jackets could approach the $640 mark, positioning the brand in the ‘accessible luxury‘ or ‘premium‘ category.

To put this into perspective, consider the words of one of our Personal Stylists, Karina: “Price-wise, Lacoste is middle ground, hence the question of whether Lacoste is luxury or not. Lacoste’s products are more expensive than high-street, but not as expensive as high-end luxury brands.”

Yes, the middle-ground pricing strategy allows Lacoste to appeal to a broad range of consumers, such as young professionals looking to upgrade their wardrobes, where Lacoste is the first step into the world of premium brands.

However, the brand’s intentional accessibility is a double-edged sword when it comes to luxury perception and appeal to wealthy men seeking to create a classic, old-money style.

In some markets, particularly those where conspicuous consumption is the norm, Lacoste’s relatively modest prices may work against its luxury credentials.

As one of our clients, Markus from New York City put it, “I feel Lacoste is losing image fast, as I haven’t seen anyone in my group of friends wear it in a while. And, when I see people wearing the brand, those people are not wealthy but want to copy what they think wealthy people wear.

The brand’s pricing is even more complex when we consider Lacoste’s outlet stores offering past-season Lacoste clothes at huge discounts, sometimes as low as $20 for a polo shirt.

While selling via outlets increases brand recognition and accessibility, in the long run, it dilutes the brand’s luxury image.

As one Lacoste employee in Canada observed, “It’s hard to maintain a ‘luxury/high end’ image when you can buy a sweater or tee at the outlet for less than $20.” 

Yet, for the young gentleman, this price positioning can be advantageous as it allows for the cultivation of a refined wardrobe without the extravagant expense associated with luxury brands.

Ultimately, the key is in how you style Lacoste as you can mix and match to create a streetwear look or a modern old money style.

A well-chosen Lacoste jacket, paired thoughtfully with dress pants and penny loafers, can convey a sense of understated luxury that’s far more sophisticated than flashier, more expensive alternatives.

Moreover, when we consider the longevity of Lacoste products, the price point takes on a different perspective.

As one satisfied customer noted, “My [Made in France] polos are of exceptional quality – I have two very old and they still don’t look it. My polos from similar brands, Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren, have lost a bit of shape but my Lacoste ones are still strong.”

When factoring in cost-per-wear, Lacoste’s pricing strategy places the brand in a unique position; not quite high street, nor traditionally luxurious.

Instead, it occupies a sweet spot that, for many, represents the perfect balance of quality, style, and value.

Is Lacoste Silent Luxury?

In recent years, the concept of ‘silent luxury’ or ‘quiet luxury’ has gained significant traction in the fashion world.

This approach to luxury eschews loud logos and ostentatious displays of wealth in favour of understated quality and refined taste, represented so beautifully by old money fashion influencers.

It’s in this context that Lacoste is a signifier of silent luxury; Lacoste’s crocodile is small, discreet, and part of the brand’s identity for so long that it transcends the logo status to a symbol of heritage.

Consider the words of Alistair, a male model and one of our clients: “To me, any garment with a prominent logo is a bit gauche but I never placed Lacoste in this category.”

It is the brand’s association with ‘old money’ aesthetics which plays into its silent luxury credentials and intentional subtlety that allows Lacoste to function as a status signifier.

As one of our clients, Dean noted, “Lacost was the older generation’s mildly wealthy brand and until recently, the only people who wore it were wealthy dads with c-suite jobs. However, since the advent of social media and modern aesthetics, I see Lacost used a lot as a brand for young generations recreating classic fashion in a modern context.

This connection to established wealth, rather than nouveau riche flash, aligns well with the ethos of silent luxury but it is important to note that Lacoste’s status as a silent luxury isn’t universal.

In some markets, particularly in parts of Europe and South America, Lacoste has had to work to shed associations with “chavs” or “thugs“.

As one of our French clients shared, “Just like Burberry in the UK, Lacoste in France was associated with thugs for some time and it took the brand at least 10 years to get rid of this bad image.”

This varied perception across different markets highlights an important aspect of silent luxury—context matters.

Speaking of styling by location, a well-fitted Lacoste polo under a blazer might be seen as understated elegance in a corporate setting in New York or London; in Mumbai or Ghana, it surely conveys a different message.

Lacoste’s recent moves towards sustainable fashion also align with the silent luxury values and the views of old-money fashionistas.

Lacoste’s efforts in this area, including partnership with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation and focus on ethical cotton and enhanced product lifecycles, speak to a modern, thoughtful approach to luxury.

Perhaps the most compelling argument for Lacoste’s silent luxury comes from how it’s worn by those who truly understand style.

As Karina put it, “Lacoste remains a timeless brand – if you consider their classic polos and sweaters – and their ability to transcend fashion trends to maintain relevance is a hallmark of true luxury.”

Lacoste’s jackets and polos, styled with well-cut chinos, brogues or loafers, and a classic watch, create luxurious outfits for wealthy men, exuding quiet confidence and good taste.

In the end, Lacoste’s potential as silent luxury lies not just in the brand, but in how it’s interpreted and worn.

In the right hands, it can indeed be a powerful tool in the arsenal of understated elegance.

How is Lacoste Perceived in Different Countries?

As we traverse the globe, we find that the crocodile logo carries different connotations depending on where we land, painting a complex picture of Lacoste’s status as a luxury brand.

Lacoste’s image ranges from high-status symbol to everyday sportswear, from preppy staple to street-style favourite, depending on where you are and who you ask.

The brand’s perception also varies significantly based on the specific product line.

While Lacoste’s clothing, particularly its iconic polo shirts, may be the focus of much debate regarding its luxury status, other product categories enjoy different reputations.

France

Let’s begin our journey in France, Lacoste’s homeland where one might expect the brand to enjoy unequivocal prestige here, but the reality is a bit more nuanced.

As one of our French clients noted, “In France, it’s been associated with thugs for a long time. It took them at least 10 years to get rid of this bad image.”

This association with ‘racaille’ or thugs was a significant challenge for Lacoste, requiring a concerted effort to reposition the brand.

Today, while it has largely shed this negative connotation, Lacoste in France is seen more as a classic, respectable brand rather than a luxury one.

UK

Crossing the Channel to the United Kingdom, we find a similar story with a different vernacular.

“Lacost is still perceived as a bit ‘chavvy’ here in the UK, where I live, anyway,” shared one of our British clients.

This association with ‘chavs’—a somewhat derogatory term for a youth subculture stereotypically associated with anti-social behaviour—has been a persistent issue for Lacoste in the UK.

However, this perception isn’t universal across the country and in affluent areas among older demographics, Lacoste retains its association with tennis and a preppy, upper-middle-class lifestyle.

US

In the United States, Lacoste’s image varies significantly by region and demographic.

In prep school enclaves of the Northeast, Lacoste is seen as a staple of old-money wardrobes.

“If you’re under 25 here you’ll get asked which fraternity you’re in,” quipped one American client, highlighting the brand’s association with collegiate preppy style.

However, the brand’s cachet is less pronounced in other parts of the country.

As Conway, from Philadelphia, noted: “No one that I know knows it here in Philadelphia. And whoever wears the brand, they don’t wear it because of its association with old money as they probably bought it cheap, at some retail discounter or outlet.”

Japan

Moving eastward to Japan, we find a different story altogether.

In Japan, Lacoste is famous for its collaboration with United Arrows and Beams.

These collaborations with respected Japanese fashion retailers suggest a more elevated status for Lacoste in the Japanese market, where it’s seen as a stylish, sport-inspired brand rather than purely a luxury label.

Canada

In Canada, for instance, a Lacoste employee offered this insight: “It’s not for everyday people. In terms of style, most of our clients are all from out of country.”

This suggests that in some markets, Lacoste may be seen more as a tourist brand than a local luxury staple.

South America

Venturing to South America, we find yet another perception of Lacoste. In Argentina, for instance, the brand has struggled with an association with a particular subculture.

One client explained, “There is a trendy teenage band from the ghettos called Wachiturros whose members all wear Lacoste, and the brand tried to pay them to stop wearing t-shirts.”

This anecdote illustrates the challenges Lacoste faces in maintaining its desired brand image across diverse markets.

Developing Markets

In some developing markets, Lacoste enjoys a more unambiguously prestigious status. For example in Egypt, Lacoste is viewed as a high-status brand.

However, in Egypt average brands like Hollister and American Eagle are over-glorified.

The high status of Western brands is common in many emerging markets, where the brand’s European heritage and relative inaccessibility contribute to its luxury image.

Conclusion

As we conclude our exploration of Lacoste’s place in the luxury fashion landscape, we find ourselves returning to our original question: Is Lacoste truly a luxury brand?

The answer, like the brand, is nuanced and multifaceted as Lacoste’s heritage is undeniably rich, rooted in the innovative spirit of René Lacoste and the elegant world of tennis.

This history lends the brand a certain cachet that many newer luxury brands lack.

The quality and craftsmanship of Lacoste products, particularly iconic polo shirts and knitwear, meet the standards one would expect from a luxury brand.

However, Lacoste’s price point and widespread availability place it in a category that might best be described as ‘accessible luxury’.

It’s more expensive and exclusive than high street brands, yet more attainable than traditional high-end luxury labels.

This positioning allows Lacoste to serve as a bridge between everyday wear and luxury fashion, making it an attractive option for those looking to elevate style without breaking the bank.

The concept of Lacoste as ‘silent luxury’ is particularly intriguing as in many contexts, especially in Western corporate environments or preppy social settings, Lacoste functions as a signifier of good taste and refinement.

The small crocodile logo, far from being ostentatious, has become a discreet emblem of sporty elegance.

Yet, we must acknowledge that Lacoste’s luxury status is far from universal. As our global tour revealed, the brand’s perception varies widely across different countries and cultures.

In some markets, it’s seen as a prestigious label, while in others, it has had to work to overcome less desirable associations.

For the gentleman seeking to cultivate an air of understated elegance, Lacoste offers intriguing possibilities.

Its classic designs, quality construction, and rich heritage provide a solid foundation for a refined wardrobe.

When styled thoughtfully—perhaps a well-fitted polo under a blazer, or a fine knit sweater paired with tailored trousers—Lacoste pieces can contribute to a look of effortless sophistication.

However, the key to successfully incorporating Lacoste into a luxury wardrobe lies in understanding its place in the fashion hierarchy and the cultural context in which it’s worn.

It’s not about blindly embracing the brand as a luxury label, but rather about appreciating its strengths and wearing it in a way that aligns with one’s personal style and social milieu.

So, is Lacoste a luxury brand? In the traditional, exclusivity-focused definition of luxury, perhaps not.

But in a modern context, where luxury is increasingly defined by quality, heritage, and understated elegance rather than mere price or exclusivity, Lacoste certainly has a claim to the title.

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