Japanese Trad Style Guide to Dress Like a Roppongi Hills Exec

Japanese Trad Style, also known as “Ametora” (American Traditional), “Ivy Style” in Japan, or “J-Ivy,” is a razor-sharp reimagining of the American Ivy League style.

The style’s architect is Kensuke Ishizu who conceived the look in the 1960s in Tokyo and published the style’s ‘bible’ “Take Ivy” in 1965. Kensuke used “Trad” as the shortened form of “Traditional,” emphasising the style’s roots in classic American collegiate wear.

Fashion insiders use several terms like “Neo-Ivy,” “Japanese Ivy,” or “Tokyo Ivy” to highlight the style’s evolution beyond the original Ivy League look and distinguish it from its American predecessor.

The Japanese Trad style marries East Coast preppy wardrobe staples with Japanese perfectionism: think 3/2 roll sack suits with hand-sewn Neapolitan shoulders, Oxford cloth button-downs with unfused collars, and 7-fold repp ties made from vintage shuttle looms.

However, unlike American preppy, the Japanese Trad look favours a slimmer and more structured silhouette with details like kissing buttons on jacket cuffs, hook vents, and trouser side tabs instead of belt loops.

The style’s colour palette leans towards earthy tones – moss greens, rich browns, and slate greys in subtle herringbone or hopsack weaves.

The Japanese Trad style is a hyper-realised, perfected version of the American preppy aesthetic, filtered through the lens of Japanese craftsmanship and attention to detail.

In this article, we’ll compare Japanese Trad Style to similar old-money heritage looks, look at the wardrobe essentials, key Japanese fabrics and patterns, provide seasonal outfit ideas, do’s and don’ts, and teach you how to style it to perfection.

Note: Japanese Trad is not the same as J. Press, a clothing company founded in 1902 on Yale’s campus as one of the original American Ivy League outfitters.

Japanese Trad Style vs Similar Heritage Looks

While Japanese Trad is rooted in American Ivy League fashion, it stands as a distinct style among other old-money heritage styles for men.

The following comparison highlights five distinctive heritage styles, each with its aesthetic, showcasing traditional elegance and silent wealth.

Japanese Trad style, while distinct, has engaged in a dynamic dialogue with these other heritage looks over the decades.

Its meticulous approach to Ivy style has influenced American enthusiasts, leading to a renewed appreciation for details like soft-rolled collar construction and precise tailoring.

Conversely, Japanese Trad has borrowed subtle elements from Italian tailoring, such as a slightly more shaped silhouette in recent years.

The style has remained largely immune to the relaxed aesthetic of French BCBG, maintaining its commitment to a more structured look.

However, it shares with British Savile Row an obsession with quality materials and construction, often sourcing fine wool from the same British mills.

This cross-pollination of ideas has helped Japanese Trad remain relevant while staying true to its core principles.

The Japanese Trad style uses the 3/2 roll sack jacket with a natural shoulder line, minimal padding, and a distinctive lapel roll to the middle button as a cornerstone.

Button-down collar shirts in Oxford cloth, are prized for their soft, unfused collars that create a gentle roll while flat-front trousers complete the look.

The colour palette is subdued, favouring earthy tones like moss green, tobacco brown, and slate grey in jackets and trousers.

Accessories include narrow striped repp ties, shell cordovan tassel loafers, and tortoiseshell glasses, completing the intellectual aesthetic.

American Ivy League style, while similar to Japanese Trad, has some distinct differences.

Natural shoulder sack jackets have a slightly more relaxed fit than their Japanese counterparts.

Madras plaid is popular for summer jackets, button-down collar shirts are common – but with a less pronounced collar roll – and flat-front chinos are staples.

Penny loafers are the footwear of choice and accessories include both striped and emblematic ties, with bolder patterns than in Japanese Trad.

The colours are brighter and preppier, including navy, khaki, burgundy, and forest green across jackets, trousers, and accessories. Canvas tote bags with college logos are a distinctive American preppy touch.

British Savile Row style epitomises traditional English tailoring with single and double-breasted jackets featuring a more structured shoulder than Japanese Trad or American Ivy.

Spread collar shirts are standard, trousers are pleated, and the colour palette is conservative, dominated by charcoal and navy, with subtle pinstripes for variation.

Patterns include chalk stripes and Prince of Wales checks in suits while accessories are understated but luxurious.

Imagine calf leather Oxford shoes, silk pocket squares, and mother-of-pearl cufflinks, for a powerful vibe of timeless elegance and quiet luxury.

Italian Alta Società Moda or the style of Italian aristocracy combines impeccable old-money tailoring with a touch of sprezzatura.

Neapolitan-style jackets feature a softer construction than the British suits, with a slight nipping at the waist for a more shaped silhouette.

Spread collar shirts are common, sometimes with subtle textures or patterns.

Trousers are flat-front and have a higher rise than other styles. The colours revolve around earthy tones like espresso brown and olive green in suits, and pastels like sky blue or blush pink in shirts.

The style is complemented by large-scale paisley prints on silk ties, medallion print pocket squares, and suede tassel loafers are a popular footwear choice.

French Bon Chic Bon Genre (BCBG) style blends casual elegance with a hint of nautical influence.

The navy blazer paired with tailored chinos and Breton striped shirts are wardrobe staples.

The colour palette is classic and includes navy, white, and beige across all garments while accessories like silk pocket squares in red add a pop of colour.

Leather driving shoes, suede loafers, and boat shoes accessorised with matching leather braided bracelets provide a feeling of understated elegance, equally at home in a Parisian cafe or on the Côte d’Azur.

Japanese Trad Style Wardrobe Essentials

Suits and Jackets

The cornerstone of the Japanese Trad style is the 3/2 roll sack jacket with a natural shoulder line with minimal padding, a three-button front with the lapel rolling to the middle button, and a straight-hanging body without waist suppression.

The lapel width is around 2.75-3 inches, which is narrower than contemporary fashion but wider than the 1960s Ivy style.

The back has a hook vent, while the front has flap pockets and a welted breast pocket.

Navy hopsack blazers, brown herringbone Harris tweed sport coats, and blue and white Madras jackets for summer are also considered essentials.

The suit collection comprises medium grey worsted wool suits, navy chalk stripe suits, and tan gabardine suits for warmer months.

All Japanese Trad jackets maintain a consistent silhouette with minimal structure, two-button cuffs, and a single back vent.

Notable Japanese brands – Ring Jacket, known for impeccable 3/2 roll sack suits, and United Arrows, offering a modern take on classic Ivy style jackets.

Shirts

The Oxford Cloth Button-Down (OCBD) shirt with an unfused collar with a pronounced roll, single-needle side seams, box pleat at the back, and a locker loop is the foundation of Japanese Traditional preppy-like style.

The collar buttons are placed slightly closer together than in American OCBD shirt versions to create a more pronounced arch in the collar roll.

Button cuffs are standard and the essential OCBD collection includes white, light blue, pink, and university stripe patterns (blue or red stripes on white).

Fabrics are predominantly sturdy Oxford cloth, with occasional pinpoint Oxford for dressier occasions. Shirts have a relaxed yet tailored fit, with a longer collar point length of 3.25 inches.

Notable Japanese brands – Kamakura Shirts renowned for high-quality OCBDs with perfect collar rolls and Gitman Vintage – not Japanese but popular among Japanese Trad enthusiasts for their faithfully reproduced Ivy-style shirts.

Trousers

Japanese Trad trousers feature clean lines and a classic cut. They sport a flat front, medium-high rise sitting at the natural waist, and a straight leg with a slight taper.

The rise is around 11-12 inches, which is higher than contemporary styles but lower than true high-rise trousers.

Cuffs (turn-ups) measure 1.75 inches. Dressier pairs include side adjusters instead of belt loops.

Key styles encompass medium grey worsted wool dress trousers, British khaki chinos, stone-coloured cotton twill trousers, and olive green cavalry twill trousers.

All trousers maintain a consistent silhouette with a leg opening between 8 and 8.5 inches, providing a clean drape over shoes.

Notable Japanese brands – VAN Jacket, the original purveyor of Ivy style in Japan, still produces excellent trousers. Coherence is also popular for its high-rise, wide-leg trousers that embody the Japanese Trad aesthetic.

Knitwear

Japanese Trad knitwear leans towards crew neck Shetland wool sweaters in brushed finishes, V-neck lambswool sweaters with saddle shoulders, and cable knit cardigans with leather buttons.

Shetland sweaters that feature a ‘brushed’ or ‘fuzzy’ finish are highly prized in Japanese Trad circles.

Colours revolve around navy, loden green, burgundy, oatmeal, and heather grey.

All knitwear has ribbed cuffs and waistbands, with a fit that’s trim but not tight, allowing for layering over OCBDs.

Notable Japanese brands – Inverallan, a Scottish clothing brand, is highly regarded in Japanese Trad circles for its Shetland sweaters. Japanese brand Batoner offers exquisite knitwear with a subtle Japanese twist on classic styles.

Footwear

Japanese Trad footwear combines comfort with elegance and the essential wardrobe includes cordovan penny loafers in colour #8 (burgundy), black or dark brown calf tassel loafers, tobacco suede plain toe bluchers, and walnut calf longwing brogues.

Penny loafers sport beef-roll styling, while tassel loafers feature braided laces. All shoes feature leather heel counters and leather insoles, even in more casual styles and Dainite rubber soles are used for harsh weather.

Notable Japanese brands – While not Japanese, Alden shoes are extremely popular in Japanese Trad style. For a domestic option, Regal Shoes produces high-quality loafers and brogues in the Trad style.

Accessories

Belts in the Japanese Trad style are chosen to complement specific types of trousers and occasions.

For dress trousers (such as those worn with suits or sport coats), 1-inch wide calfskin leather belts with simple brass buckles are preferred, ideally in black or dark brown to match the shoes.

For chinos and more casual trousers, 1.25-inch wide surcingle belts with cotton or wool outer, leather tabs, and brass buckles are preferred. Popular colours include navy, burgundy, and olive, with contrasting stripes.

Casual looks might incorporate braided leather belts in tan or light brown worn paired with madras jackets during summer months.

It’s worth noting that many Japanese Trad enthusiasts prefer side adjusters on dressier trousers or formal ensembles, eliminating the need for belts.

The necktie collection features 3-inch wide repp stripe ties in silk, solid grenadine ties for texture, and 2.75-inch wide silk knit ties for casual elegance.

Pocket squares are plain white linen or subtly patterned silk while eyewear includes tortoiseshell acetate frames in classic shapes like the Ivy League-inspired P3.

Watches have understated designs with minimal complications, silver-toned cases and shell cordovan straps.

Other popular accessories are calfskin billfold wallets while headwear consists of brown herringbone tweed flat caps for casual wear and grey felt fedoras with 2.5-inch brims for more formal occasions.

Notable Japanese brands – Matsui Seisakusho crafts exceptional eyewear in classic Trad shapes while Tokyo-based brand Nackymade is great for handcrafted eyewear in classic Trad shapes. For ties, Kenji Kaga produces high-quality neckwear adhering to traditional Ivy League aesthetics.

Japanese Trad Traditional Influences

Japanese Materials

Japanese Trad style incorporates high-quality wool sourced from both domestic and international mills.

Worsted wool in Super 100s to 120s is favoured for suits and dress trousers, offering a smooth finish and excellent drape.

Japanese mills like Nikke (Japan Wool Textile Co., Ltd) produce wool fabrics that rival their European counterparts, offering unique textures and patterns that align with the Japanese Trad aesthetic.

Though not Japanese, the Harris Tweed – a hand-woven fabric from Scotland’s Outer Hebrides – is loved by Japanese Trad circles for its distinctive patterns like herringbone and barleycorn and used in fall and winter sport coats.

Oxford Cloth and Traditional Japanese Techniques

The Oxford cloth used in Japanese Trad button-down shirts is heavier than its American counterpart weighing around 150-170 grams per square meter.

Japanese textile companies like Toyoshima & Co., Ltd. and Canclini produce Oxford cloth of great feel and quality.

Indigo Dyeing, deeply rooted in Japanese textile history, is applied to OCBDs and chinos – as natural indigo dyes – to create unique, evolving colours that reflect Japan’s rich heritage while maintaining the Preppy brand.

Kasuri Weaving, a centuries-old ikat technique, has been incorporated into Japanese Trad, particularly in casual shirts and summer jackets.

This method creates subtle patterns by resist-dyeing the yarn before weaving, adding a Japanese touch to Ivy-inspired garments.

Patterns and Weaves

The Japanese Trad style favours subtle patterns in suits and sport coats.

Hopsack – A loose basket weave that provides texture and breathability used in navy blazers.

Herringbone – A V-shaped weaving pattern, popular in tweed sport coats and winter suits.

Sharkskin – A tight weave with a subtle textured appearance used in summer-weight suits.

Nailhead – A tiny, repetitive pattern resembling the head of a nail, providing visual interest in suits and sport coats.

Chalkstripe – Widely spaced, chalky-looking vertical stripes on a dark background, popular for business suits.

In shirting, beyond solid colours, Japanese Trad incorporates several classic patterns:

University Stripe – Alternating coloured (usually blue or pink) and white stripes of equal width.

Candy Stripe – Narrow, evenly spaced stripes on a white background.

Tattersall – A check pattern of perpendicular narrow stripes, often in two colours on a light background.

Graph Check – A small-scale, even check pattern resembling graph paper.

Japanese Artisanal Techniques in Trad Style

Sashiko Stitching, a traditional Japanese reinforcement technique, has been incorporated into Japanese Trad.

This decorative stitching is seen on casual jackets or as subtle detailing on accessories, adding a unique Japanese flair to Ivy-inspired pieces.

Some Japanese Trad tailors incorporate subtle Kimono-Inspired details into garments, such as the extended shirt cuffs reminiscent of kimono sleeves, or inner pockets cut in a style similar to kimono pockets.

The Boro Patchwork technique – a traditional method of mending and patching textiles has been adopted in niche areas of Japanese Trad to blend the “lived-in” Ivy look with Japanese aesthetics.

These motifs and aesthetics showcase how Japanese designers have integrated their heritage into Ivy-inspired fashion to create a unique and refined Japanese Trad aesthetic that honours both Western Ivy League traditions and Japanese craftsmanship.

Japanese Trad Outfit Ideas by Seasons

Spring Outfit Idea

For a quintessential spring ensemble, start with a lightweight worsted wool suit in medium grey sharkskin weave.

Pair with a pale blue oxford cloth button-down shirt, its soft collar creating a gentle roll. The tie should be a 3-inch wide repp stripe in burgundy and navy.

Footwear consists of burgundy shell cordovan penny loafers with a subtle beef-roll edge. Socks in a muted argyle pattern featuring grey and burgundy complement the outfit.

Accessories include a white linen pocket square with hand-rolled edges, folded in a simple TV fold, and tortoiseshell glasses with a P3 shape.

A vintage Seiko automatic watch with a brown leather strap adds a final touch of understated elegance.

Wear a tan cotton gabardine raincoat as outerwear, protecting against spring showers while maintaining the clean lines of your outfit.

Summer Outfit Idea

Summer calls for a blue and white seersucker blazer, paired with stone-colored cotton twill trousers featuring side adjusters.

Underneath, wear a white pinpoint oxford cloth button-down shirt for a crisper look suitable for warmer weather and a 2.75-inch silk knit tie in a solid navy.

Footwear consists of unlined suede tassel loafers in a rich tobacco shade, worn with no-show socks for a seasonally appropriate bare-ankle look.

Accessories include a lightly textured silk pocket square in pale yellow, arranged in a casual puff fold, lighter-coloured tortoiseshell frames, and a braided leather belt in tan.

Top it off with a straw fedora featuring a navy grosgrain ribbon for sun protection with style.

Autumn Outfit Idea

Autumn’s ensemble centres around a brown herringbone Harris Tweed sport coat worn over a university stripe oxford cloth button-down shirt in blue and white.

The lower half features olive green cavalry twill trousers with a medium-high rise and 1.75-inch cuffs and a 3-inch wide ancient madder silk tie in a small geometric pattern, mixing red and green.

Wear walnut-coloured longwing brogues in scotch grain leather with over-the-calf socks in dark olive.

Accessorise with a burgundy wool challis pocket square with a paisley pattern casually stuffed into the breast pocket and a brown leather watch strap.

For cooler days, layer with an oatmeal-coloured Shetland crewneck sweater with a brushed finish and complete the look with a brown herringbone wool flat cap.

Winter Outfit Idea

Winter’s centrepiece is a heavy navy worsted wool suit with a subtle chalk stripe paired with a light blue oxford cloth button-down shirt and a 3-inch wide repp tie in gold and navy.

Footwear shifts to black cap-toe oxfords in polished calf leather, worn with charcoal over-the-calf socks and a white linen pocket square for a crisp contrast against the deep navy suit.

Accessorise with a pair of cashmere-lined deerskin gloves in dark brown, a navy wool scarf with fringe detailing and a wristwatch with a black shell cordovan strap.

As outerwear don a camel hair polo coat, complementing the deep navy of the suit and top it off with a grey felt fedora sporting a slightly wider 2.75-inch brim for added winter protection.

Japanese Trad Do’s and Don’ts

Japanese Trad Style Lexicon

Ametora (アメトラ) – Short for “American Traditional,” referring to the Japanese interpretation of the American Ivy League style.

Ivy-Trad (アイビートラッド) – A term specifically referring to the Japanese interpretation of Ivy League style.

Konbu (昆布) – Literally “kelp,” used to describe the desirable wrinkles in a button-down collar roll.

Namamono (生物) – Literally “raw thing,” refers to an unlined and unconstructed jacket.

Trad Snap (トラッドスナップ) – Street-style photos of people wearing Trad style, popular in Japanese fashion magazines.

Shibafu (芝生) – Literally “lawn,” refers to the specific shade of green often used in Trad clothing.

Sebiro (背広) – The Japanese word for suit, derived from “civil robe” and arguably a homage to London’s Savile Row.

Ajitatoru (アジテートル) –  A play on “agitate,” referring to a slightly rumpled, lived-in look prized in Japanese Trad.

VAN Jacket (VAN ジャケット) – The pioneering brand that introduced the Ivy style to Japan in the 1960s.

Take Ivy (テイク・アイビー) – The seminal photo book documenting Ivy League campus style, highly influential in Japanese Trad circles.

Dakimakura (抱き枕) – Literally “embrace pillow,” humorously used to describe a soft, unstructured jacket.

Hamidashi (はみ出し) – The practice of leaving the back of one’s collar slightly unbuttoned for a casual look.

Kariyushi (かりゆし) – Okinawan-style shirts, sometimes incorporated into more casual Japanese Trad outfits.

Iki (粋) – A Japanese aesthetic ideal meaning stylish in an understated, refined way.

Shibui (渋い) – An aesthetic ideal describing subtle, unobtrusive beauty.

10 Japanese Trad Style Facts and Tales

1. The “Ivy Bible” Expedition

In 1965, a team of Japanese style enthusiasts, including VAN Jacket founder Kensuke Ishizu, embarked on a two-week tour of Ivy League campuses.

Their mission? To document authentic American collegiate style. The result was “Take Ivy,” a photo book that became the definitive guide for Japanese Trad, ironically preserving a style that was already evolving in its country of origin.

2. The Miyuki-zoku Rebellion

In 1964, Tokyo’s Ginza district saw an unusual “rebellion.” Thousands of Ivy-style-clad youth, known as the Miyuki-zoku, promenaded the streets in their button-down shirts and chinos.

The police, viewing this as a disturbance, arrested many—inadvertently cementing the Ivy League preppy style as a symbol of youth culture in Japan.

3. The Button-Down Collar Revolution

Japanese Trad enthusiasts developed an obsession with the perfect button-down collar roll, termed “konbu” (kelp) for its curved shape.

This led to innovations in collar construction, with some Japanese manufacturers producing collars with unfused interlining—a feature now prized by Ivy League fashion enthusiasts worldwide.

4. The Eternal Blue Blazer

In 1967, VAN Jacket introduced the “Eternal Suit” and “Eternal Blazer,” promising to replace the item if it wore out.

This promotion not only boosted sales but also emphasised the timeless nature of Trad style, influencing how Japanese consumers viewed fashion longevity.

5. The Yankee Invasion

Contrary to what the name might suggest, “Yankee” in Japanese fashion contexts refers to a subculture that blends American greaser style with traditional Japanese delinquent fashion.

Some Yankee groups incorporated elements of Trad, creating a unique hybrid style that challenged conventional Ivy norms.

6. The Sack Suit’s Second Life

As the sack suit fell out of favour in America, Japanese makers like Ring Jacket kept the style alive, refining it for modern tastes.

Today, many American Ivy style enthusiasts look to Japanese brands for the most authentic sack suit silhouettes.

7. The Kamakura Shirts Phenomenon

Founded in 1993, Kamakura Shirts revitalised the OCBD market in Japan with their commitment to quality and reasonable pricing.

Their success led to international expansion, with Kamakura now considered a go-to brand for Trad enthusiasts worldwide—a rare case of Japanese Trad directly influencing global markets.

8. The Denim Debate

Despite its American origins, Japanese denim became a point of contention in Trad circles.

Purists argued against incorporating jeans into traditional outfits, while modernists saw high-quality Japanese selvedge denim as a natural evolution of the style.

This debate continues to shape the boundaries of contemporary Japanese Trad.

9. The Mister Gentleman

In the 1960s, Japanese magazines began featuring a character called “Mister Gentleman,” an illustrated ideal of Ivy style.

This fictional character played a crucial role in disseminating style rules and showcasing new trends, becoming a unique part of Japanese Trad culture.

10. The Ivy League Pilgrimage

Some dedicated Japanese Trad enthusiasts make pilgrimages to Ivy League campuses or New England prep schools, seeking to experience the roots of the style firsthand.

This practice, blending fashion enthusiasm with tourism, highlights the deep cultural impact of Trad style in Japan.

Conclusion

Japanese Trad Style stands as a testament to the power of cultural exchange and reinterpretation.

Born from a fascination with American Ivy League fashion, it has evolved into a distinct aesthetic that blends meticulous attention to detail with a profound respect for tradition.

This style is more than just a way of dressing; it’s a philosophy that values quality, subtlety, and timeless elegance.

The journey of Japanese Trad fashion from its inception in the 1960s to its current status as a globally recognised style showcases Japan’s unique ability to adopt and refine foreign influences.

Through the lens of Japanese craftsmanship and aesthetic sensibilities, the casual elegance of American campuses has been transformed into a precisely calibrated system of dress that speaks to discerning individuals worldwide.

What sets Japanese Trad apart is its unwavering commitment to quality and its deep understanding of the nuances that elevate mere clothing to true style.

From the perfect roll of an OCBD collar to the precise width of a repp tie, every element is considered and perfected.

This attention to detail extends beyond the visible, encompassing the very fibres and construction techniques used in each garment.

Yet, Japanese Trad is not a static relic and continues to evolve, incorporating modern fabrics and subtle design tweaks while remaining true to its core principles.

This balance between tradition and innovation ensures its relevance in contemporary fashion landscapes.

For the enthusiast, Japanese Trad offers a rich tapestry of history, craft, and style to explore.

It invites a deeper engagement with one’s wardrobe, encouraging thoughtful curation and an appreciation for the stories behind each piece.

In a world of fast fashion and transient trends, Japanese Trad stands as a celebration of cultural synthesis, a testament to the power of refinement, and a compelling argument for old-money elegance.

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