Suits have long been the pinnacle of men’s formal attire, conveying an air of sophistication, success, and refined style.
Understanding the nuances of suit styling is crucial for modern gentlemen who want to project a polished, impressive image that commands respect and admiration.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll delve into the secret rules of wearing suits, empowering you to leave lasting impressions everywhere, from the boardroom to black-tie events.
The Suit’s Heritage
The suit’s roots go back to the 17th century when the English nobility departed from the flamboyant styles of the past and adopted a more streamlined, structured silhouette.
Over the centuries, the suit has undergone numerous transformations, adapting to changing societal norms, technological advancements, and the evolving needs of the modern gentleman.
From the classic three-piece to the contemporary single-breasted, the suit has remained a timeless symbol of sophistication and power.
Here’s how the classic suit (the one we’re covering here) stands compared to similar garments that stylish gentlemen like you should never confuse.
| Garment | Formality | Occasion | Distinguishing Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Suits | High | Business, Formal Events | Structured, Multi-piece (Jacket, Trousers, Optional Vest) |
| Tuxedos | Highest | Black-Tie Events | Single-Breasted Jacket, Satin Lapels, Matching Trousers |
| Blazers | Moderate | Casual, Semi-Formal | Single-breasted, Made of Wool or Cotton |
| Sports Coats | Moderate | Casual, Semi-Formal | Unstructured, Made of Tweed or Corduroy |
Suit Styling or Unspoken Wearing Rules
Mastering the art of suit styling goes beyond simply slipping into a well-tailored ensemble.
It requires understanding the essential guidelines that elevate a good suit into a sartorial masterpiece. Let us explore these key principles:
Suit Buttoning Rule
The cardinal rule of suit jackets is never to button the last or the bottom button.
The tradition dates back to King Edward VII, who allegedly had a protruding stomach that made it uncomfortable to button the bottom button of his jacket.
The modern suit is designed with this in mind, and keeping the bottom button open creates a more flattering, streamlined silhouette.
Sitting Rule
When seated, it is crucial to unbutton your suit jacket to prevent the fabric from stretching and maintain the proper fit.
A well-tailored suit should drape elegantly, and unbuttoning allows for comfortable movement and prevents unsightly bulges or distortions.
Shirt Collar Rule
The collar of your dress shirt plays a vital role in your overall look.
Ensure the top button is always fastened, creating a clean, refined neckline.
If the collar feels restrictive, it is time to invest in a new shirt with a better fit.
Sleeve Length Rule
The length of your shirt sleeves is equally important.
The cuff should extend approximately half an inch beyond the jacket sleeve, showcasing a subtle, tailored touch.
Avoid having your shirt sleeves overwhelm your jacket sleeves or, worse, disappear beneath them.
Belts and Shoes Rule
When it comes to belts and shoes, the rule is simple: they should always match.
Pair a sleek, black leather belt with polished, black Oxford shoes, or opt for a rich leather belt and complementary brown leather brogues.
This unified colour palette creates a cohesive, sophisticated look.
Tie Length Rule
The length of your tie is crucial in achieving a balanced, polished appearance.
Your tie should end at the belt line, perfectly concealing the shirt buttons beneath.
Avoid allowing your tie to hang too short or, worse, dangle below your belt.
Pocket Square Rule
The pocket square is the crowning glory of your suit. However, it should never match your tie.
Instead, choose a complementary pattern or colour that adds a touch of flair without being overpowering.
A solid white pocket square is a timeless classic, while a subtle paisley or dotted pattern can lend a modern edge.
Socks Rule
No well-dressed gentleman should ever have exposed legs when seated. Ensure your socks are long enough to cover your calves, even when crossing your legs.
For a refined look, opt for solid, dark-coloured socks that seamlessly integrate with your trousers.
Three Suit Outfit Ideas
Now that we’ve mastered the fundamental rules of suit styling, let’s explore some impeccable outfit combinations to elevate your look:
Business Suit Outfit Idea
For a polished, boardroom-ready look, pair a navy blue wool suit from Savile Row Tailors with a crisp, white cotton shirt from Turnbull & Asser.
Cinch the ensemble with a slim, black leather belt from Berluti and matching Oxford shoes.
Complete the look with a silver-grey silk tie from Hermès and a white linen pocket square.
Evening Suit Outfit Idea
When the occasion calls for black-tie elegance, opt for a classic tuxedo from Tom Ford.
Pair the midnight-blue, single-breasted jacket with satin-lapel detailing and matching trousers.
Elevate the outfit with a freshly pressed white dress shirt, a black silk bow tie, and gleaming patent leather Oxfords.
Finish with a simple white linen pocket square for a touch of refinement.
Casual Suit Outfit Idea
For a more relaxed, yet still polished, ensemble, choose a grey herringbone blazer from Ralph Lauren and pair it with a crisp, light-blue Oxford shirt from Brooks Brothers.
Complement the look with a pair of slim-fit chinos from Closed in a neutral tone, such as beige or olive.
Complete the outfit with a rich, brown leather belt from Anderson’s and suede loafers from Grenson.
Suit Styling Expert Tips
To truly master the art of suit styling, consider these additional expert tips that will take your sartorial prowess to new heights:
Choose Bespoke or Made-to-Measure Suits
While off-the-rack suits can be a convenient option, investing in a bespoke or made-to-measure suit from a reputable tailor will elevate your look exponentially.
A suit tailored to your precise measurements and body shape will accentuate your best features and provide a flawless, custom fit.
Fabric and Texture Are Critical
The choice of fabric and texture can dramatically impact the overall appearance of your suit.
For a refined, year-round look, opt for wool or wool-blend suiting fabrics.
Experiment with subtle patterns like pinstripes or herringbone to add visual interest without overwhelming the ensemble.
Master Colour Coordination
Colour is a powerful tool in sartorial expression. Stick to classic, versatile shades like navy, charcoal, and medium grey for your suits, then use complementary hues for your shirts, ties, and accessories to create a harmonious, polished appearance.
Develop Your Signature Suit Style
As you refine your suit styling, consider developing a signature look that reflects your aesthetic.
Whether you prefer slim-fit silhouettes, have a penchant for bold patterns, or love vintage-inspired details, cultivating a distinct style will help you stand out from the crowd.
Conclusion
In the world of menswear, the suit remains a timeless symbol of sophistication, authority, and sartorial excellence.
By mastering the unspoken rules of suit styling and incorporating these expert tips, you’ll elevate your wardrobe and command attention wherever you go.
Remember, confidence is the ultimate accessory.
Embrace the suit’s power, and let your refined, impeccable style do the talking.