Suits have long been the pinnacle of men’s formal attire, conveying an air of sophistication, success, and refined style.
Understanding the nuances of suit styling is crucial for modern gentlemen who want to project a polished, impressive image that commands respect and admiration.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll delve into the secret rules of wearing suits, empowering you to leave lasting impressions everywhere, from the boardroom to black-tie events.
The Suit’s Heritage
The suit’s roots go back to the 17th century when the English nobility departed from the flamboyant styles of the past and adopted a more streamlined, structured silhouette.
Over the centuries, the suit has undergone numerous transformations, adapting to changing societal norms, technological advancements, and the evolving needs of the modern gentlemen.
From the classic three-piece to the contemporary single-breasted, the suit has remained a timeless symbol of sophistication and power.
Here’s how the classic suit stands compared to similar garments that stylish gentlemen like you should never confuse.
| Garment | Formality | Occasion | Distinguishing Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Suits | High | Business, Formal Events | Structured, Multi-piece (Jacket, Trousers, Optional Vest) |
| Tuxedos | Highest | Black-Tie Events | Single-Breasted Jacket, Satin Lapels, Matching Trousers |
| Blazers | Moderate | Casual, Semi-Formal | Single-breasted, Made of Wool or Cotton |
| Sports Coats | Moderate | Casual, Semi-Formal | Unstructured, Made of Tweed or Corduroy |
Unspoken Rules of Wearing and Styling Suits
Mastering the art of suit styling goes beyond simply slipping into a well-tailored ensemble.
It requires understanding the essential guidelines that elevate a good suit into a sartorial masterpiece.
Let’s now explore these eight key principles critical to ensuring you’re wearing your suit to perfection.
1. Suit Buttoning Rule
The cardinal rule of suit jackets is never to button the last or the bottom button.
The tradition dates back to King Edward VII, who allegedly had a protruding stomach that made it uncomfortable to button the bottom button of his jacket.
The modern suit is designed with this in mind, and keeping the bottom button open creates a more flattering, streamlined silhouette.
2. Suit Sitting Rule
When seated, it is crucial to unbutton your suit jacket to prevent the fabric from stretching and maintain the proper fit.
A well-tailored suit should drape elegantly, and unbuttoning allows for comfortable movement and prevents unsightly bulges or distortions.
3. Suit Shirt Collar Rule
The collar of your dress shirt plays a vital role in your overall look.
Ensure the top button is permanently fastened, creating a clean, refined neckline.
If the collar feels restrictive, it is time to invest in a new shirt with a better fit.
4. Suit Sleeve Length Rule
The length of your shirt sleeves is equally essential.
The cuff should extend approximately half an inch beyond the jacket sleeve, showcasing a subtle, tailored touch.
Avoid having your shirt sleeves overwhelm your jacket sleeves or, worse, disappear beneath them.
5. Belts and Shoes Rules for Suits
Regarding belts and shoes, the rule is simple: they should always match.
Pair a sleek, black leather belt with polished, black Oxford shoes, or opt for a rich leather belt and complementary brown leather brogues.
This unified colour palette creates a cohesive, sophisticated look.
6. Suit Tie Length Rule
The length of your tie is crucial in achieving a balanced, polished appearance.
Your tie should end at the belt line, perfectly concealing the shirt buttons beneath.
Avoid allowing your tie to hang too short or, worse, dangle below your belt.
7. Pocket Square Rule for Suits
The pocket square is the crowning glory of your suit. However, it should never match your tie.
Instead, choose a complementary pattern or colour that adds a touch of flair without being overpowering.
A solid white pocket square is a timeless classic, while a subtle paisley or dotted pattern can lend a modern edge.
8. Socks Rules for Suits
No well-dressed gentleman should ever have exposed legs when seated.
Ensure your socks are long enough to cover your calves, even when crossing your legs.
For a refined look, opt for solid, dark-coloured socks that seamlessly integrate with your trousers.
How to Style Suits by Occasion
Now that we’ve mastered the fundamental rules of suit styling let’s explore some impeccable outfit combinations to elevate your look.
Suit for Business
For a polished, boardroom-ready look, pair a navy blue wool suit from Savile Row Tailors with a crisp, white cotton shirt from Turnbull & Asser.
Cinch the ensemble with a slim, black leather belt from Berluti and matching Oxford shoes.
Complete the look with a silver-grey silk tie from Hermès and a white linen pocket square.
Suit for Evening
When the occasion calls for black-tie elegance, opt for a classic tuxedo from Tom Ford.
Pair the midnight-blue, single-breasted jacket with satin-lapel detailing and matching trousers.
Elevate the outfit with a freshly pressed white dress shirt, a black silk bow tie, and gleaming patent leather Oxfords.
Finish with a simple white linen pocket square for a touch of refinement.
Suit for Casual Events
For a more relaxed yet still polished ensemble, choose a grey herringbone blazer from Ralph Lauren and pair it with a crisp, light-blue Oxford shirt from Brooks Brothers.
Complement the look with a pair of slim-fit chinos from Closed in a neutral tone, such as beige or olive.
Complete the outfit with a rich, brown leather belt from Anderson’s and suede loafers from Grenson.
Suit Styling Expert Tips
To truly master the art of suit styling, consider these additional expert tips that will take your sartorial prowess to new heights.
Choose Bespoke or Made-to-Measure Suits
While off-the-rack suits can be convenient, investing in a bespoke or made-to-measure suit from a reputable tailor will elevate your look exponentially.
A suit tailored to your precise measurements and body shape will accentuate your best features and provide a flawless, custom fit.
Wear Contextually Relevant Fabric and Textures
The choice of fabric and texture can dramatically impact the overall appearance of your suit.
Opt for wool or wool-blend suiting fabrics for a refined, year-round look.
Experiment with subtle patterns like pinstripes or herringbone to add visual interest without overwhelming the ensemble.
Master Colour Coordination
Colour is a powerful tool in sartorial expression.
Stick to classic, versatile shades like navy, charcoal, and medium grey for your suits, then use complementary hues for your shirts, ties, and accessories to create a harmonious, polished appearance.
Develop Your Signature Style
As you refine your suit styling, consider developing a signature look that reflects your aesthetic.
Whether you prefer slim-fit silhouettes, have a penchant for bold patterns, or love vintage-inspired details, cultivating a distinct style will help you stand out from the crowd.
Conclusion
In the world of menswear, the suit remains a timeless symbol of sophistication, authority, and sartorial excellence.
By mastering the unspoken rules of suit styling and incorporating these expert tips, you’ll elevate your wardrobe and command attention wherever you go.
Remember, confidence is the ultimate accessory, so embrace the suit’s refined styling power and let your charisma do the talking.
Style Like A True Gentleman
Before we say goodbye, here’s one of the best-kept secrets in men’s styling circles, a secret that only a few expert image consultants know or are willing to share.
First and foremost, professional styling requires knowing your unique body shape and seasonal colour palette – paramount factors in choosing perfectly fitting clothes in colours that complement your skin, eyes, and hair.
Only then can a stylist engage in styling by occasion, location, season, and time of day, with garments, footwear, and accessories from stylistically relevant heritage fashion brands to depict high confidence and success.
Best part? You can find your body shape, seasonal colour palette, and ideal fashion style in less than 5 minutes by yourself, for free, thanks to our four simple steps:
1. Find Your Body Shape
Different garments flatter different silhouettes, so knowing your body shape is the first step in dressing like a confident man.
To find out your unique body shape of all the six body shapes for men, take our free body shape quiz for men.
Once you know your unique body shape, take the second free quiz to discover your unique colour palette.
2. Find Your Unique Colour Palette
Remember, the garments that compose your outfits come in various colours, and you must ensure that each hue complements your natural colour.
To do that, you have to find out your seasonal colour palette, and you can do it by taking our free seasonal colour quiz for men.
3. Find Your Ideal Fashion Style
By now, you should already know your body shape and unique colour palette; the next step is to discover your ideal personal fashion style.
The fastest and simplest way is to take our free fashion style quiz for men; it includes your ideal style, outfit ideas, relevant fashion brands, and much more.
4. Professional Image Consultancy with The VOU
And if you want to style like a professional, by occasion, location, season, and time of the day, you can always ask our expert image consultants and fashion stylists for help.
Our styling services for men are the most comprehensive and detailed on the market, backed up by leading stylists who will guide you step by step in creating looks that communicate affluence, elegance, and endless accomplishments.
Remember, wearing luxury brands isn’t enough; to look stylish, confident, and successful, you must first know your body shape, colour palette, and ideal personal style, and only then style by occasion, location, season, and time of day.
Contact us today to save headaches, time, and money – it’s time to dress like a confident, successful gentleman of exquisite fashion taste – the first styling assessment is on us!
With over twenty years of front-row fashion and styling events, collabs with haute-couture houses, and a PhD in Luxury Fashion, Laurenti is an expert in crafting personalised looks that depict old-money sophistication.
With years of expertise in high-end fashion collabs and a PhD in Sustainable Fashion, Ru specialises in curating eco-luxe wardrobes for the modern gentleman seeking understated refinement.