Quick Answer
The top 5 rules for achieving an instant classic look are:
1. Choose Heritage Houses Over Trendy Designer Labels
2. Master Dark Neutrals Before Adding Any Colour
3. Master Seasonal Colours for Unique Combinations and Monochrome Dressing
4. Master the Art of Pattern Mixing Safe Solids
5. Understand Body Proportion Before Experimenting with Style
Key Points to Remember
- Focus on heritage tailoring houses over fashion designer brands
- Master dark neutral colours before experimenting with brighter hues
- Choose artisanal leather goods that develop character over time
- Perfect proportions and fit before exploring advanced style elements
- Develop a signature style rather than following seasonal trends
Want to learn more? Continue reading the full article below ↓
In luxury menswear, the true class extends far beyond wearing luxury brands or following fleeting trends.
Understanding the intricate styling details separates the truly elegant from just being well-dressed.
In this article, you’ll learn how to create an undeniably classy look backed by the science of styling and decades of image consulting expertise.
1. Choose Heritage Houses Over Trendy Designer Labels
Heritage tailoring houses like Anderson & Sheppard, Kiton, and Zegna create garments that stand out for their understated elegance rather than visible branding.
These garments make the wearer appear distinguished rather than fashionable.
These houses focus on time-tested construction methods and superior fabrics, which results in clothing that drapes more naturally and ages more gracefully.
While trendy fashion brands like Gucci, Balenciaga, and Saint Laurent create garments that immediately identify their season and brand, heritage names create timeless silhouettes that draw attention to the wearer’s sophistication rather than their fashion awareness.
Consider how Gianni Agnelli exemplified this distinction through his bespoke Neapolitan style tailoring wardrobe – his clothes never dated him to a specific era or trend, instead establishing him as a permanent figure of sophistication and taste.
2. Master Dark Neutrals Before Adding Any Colour
Neutral colours like navy, charcoal grey, and camel are the foundation of refined dressing.
They create a visual harmony that appears natural and elegant, a distinction that makes powerful dressers like Ralph Lauren and Tom Ford consistently choose them for their wardrobes.
Unlike the flashier appeal of bright colours or seasonal trends, mastering the combination of dark neutral palette creates a sophisticated taste that suggests the wearer’s style is inherent rather than studied.
In formal business environments, neutral colours command respect without demanding attention.
They shift focus from the clothes to the person wearing them, allowing one’s presence and expertise to take centre stage rather than one’s fashion choices.
See Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, employs this principle by exclusively wearing navy suits with subtle grey variations in ties and shirts for public appearances, ensuring his business acumen rather than his attire becomes the focal point of any interaction.
3. Master Seasonal Colours for Unique Combinations and Monochrome Dressing
Mastering colour, obtained through seasonal colour analysis, allows for sophisticated combinations and elegant monochrome dressing, marking the genuinely sophisticated dresser.
Brunello Cucinelli’s masterful tonal combinations of browns and creams exemplify both ways of dressing, each creating its aura of refinement.
In monochrome dressing, varying textures and subtle shade differences create depth.
Giorgio Armani creates ensembles in different shades of grey, from charcoal suits to pearl-grey shirts and silver accessories.
Sophistication lies in subtle harmony rather than contrast. For example, matching burgundy jackets with rust-coloured trousers and cognac shoes creates sophisticated but natural combinations.
Ralph Lauren’s collection demonstrates both approaches – sometimes in entirely tonal navy ensembles, other times combining complementary colours like camel and blue to showcase an innate understanding of colour harmony.
4. Master the Art of Pattern Mixing Safe Solids
The sophisticated manipulation of patterns reveals a deep understanding of style.
While wearing solid colours is safe, the correct combination of pattern mixing elevates your look from minimalist to quiet luxury and Old Money.
For example, Lino Ieluzzi combines a Glen check suit with a plaid-patterned tie, each pattern carefully scaled to create harmony, demonstrating his sophistication and style education.
The ability to combine patterns mindfully suggests an inherited understanding of style.
5. Understand Body Proportion Before Experimenting with Style
While anyone can purchase luxury brands, applying classical proportions creates a visual harmony that suggests refined taste.
The relationship between elements – such as the width of a jacket’s lapels matching the width of a tie or the scale of a shirt collar harmonising with one’s facial features – creates a subtle sophistication that makes the wearer appear naturally distinguished.
While the relationship between elements creates visual harmony, specific measurements ensure perfect execution – in line with your body shape and silhouette!
A properly fitted jacket should precisely cover your seat and fall to the first knuckle of your thumb when standing naturally.
The shirt cuff must show exactly 1/4 to 1/2 inch beyond your jacket sleeve, creating that crucial interplay between layers.
For trousers, a single clean break at the shoe remains standard for formal wear, though modern styles may opt for no break at all.
To maintain visual balance, the tie width should match the width of your lapels within 1/4 inch.
The collar points should reach the middle of your jacket lapels to frame your face properly.
Trouser rise should sit at your natural waist, typically around the navel, to create the most flattering silhouette.
Mariano Rubinacci demonstrates this mastery through his precise balance of proportions: His jacket length always hits precisely at the thumb knuckle, his trouser width consistently complements his jacket’s drape, and his tie width invariably matches his lapels.
This creates an appearance of effortless refinement that has influenced Neapolitan style for decades.
6. Develop Your Signature Style and Don’t Follow Trends
Having your own signature style will create an aura of permanence.
Those with genuine elegance maintain a consistent aesthetic that becomes their personal trademark, while trend-followers change their appearance each season.
The most sophisticated dressers develop recognisable elements in their attire that transcend fashion.
See how Lapo Elkann’s consistent use of strong colours and bold patterns, even when they fall outside current trends, has established him as a style authority.
This consistency in dressing indicates a deep understanding of one’s personal aesthetic, creating an impression of authenticity and confidence.
For example, Ralph Lauren’s unchanging uniform of western-influenced tailoring with denim has become synonymous with American luxury precisely because he never wavers from his signature look.
Another example is Luciano Barbera, who established his reputation through a distinctive blend of academic refinement and Italian sprezzatura, wearing textured tweeds with silk accessories regardless of prevailing trends, creating an enduring image that has influenced classical menswear for over half a century.
7. Wear Occasion-Appropriate Attire
The ability to dress appropriately for every occasion marks the truly sophisticated dresser.
To look classy, you must appear suited to each environment you enter.
Understanding the subtle distinctions between settings creates an impression of social mastery and etiquette.
Each outfit choice must be precisely calibrated to the setting’s expectations.
For example, business attire is suitable for client meetings, while tailored separates are perfect for weekend gatherings.
The refined dresser’s wardrobe essentials adapt seamlessly across contexts.
Diego Della Valle exemplifies this through his formal business attire in board meetings and elevated casual wear at weekend gatherings, each ensemble demonstrating his understanding of situational propriety.
8. Consider Cultural and Regional Distinctions
Understanding that classical tailoring varies significantly across different cultural contexts is essential.
British tailoring, centred around Savile Row, emphasises structured shoulders, a defined waist, and longer jackets – perfect for formal business environments.
Italian tailoring, particularly the Neapolitan style, features soft shoulders, minimal structure, and a shorter length, ideal for warmer climates and casual elegance.
American tailoring traditionally offers a more relaxed silhouette, natural shoulders, and a straight cut, suitable for diverse body types.
These regional distinctions influence the construction and the entire approach to dressing.
British style tends toward formal coordination with matching suits, while Italian sprezzatura embraces calculated imperfection.
French style combines formal and casual garments to create a more relaxed look.
9. Wear Artisanal Leather Goods With Patina
Artisanal leather goods from heritage makers like John Lobb and Edward Green develop a unique patina that mass-produced accessories cannot replicate over time.
They create an appearance of established luxury that speaks of generational wealth rather than a “new money” image.
Hand-crafted leather pieces acquire character through use whilst maintaining their structural elegance, distinguishing their wearers as connoisseurs who value enduring quality over immediate gratification.
The subtle details of hand-stitched leather goods – the refined finishing of a Berluti shoe’s welt or the hand-burnished edges of a Hermès briefcase – communicate sophisticated taste without obvious branding.
For example, British financier Nathaniel Rothschild exemplifies this distinction through his collection of bespoke John Lobb shoes.
Each pair tells a story of tradition and discernment that mass-produced footwear cannot match.
10. Wear Garments With Refined Fabrics
The distinction between refined fabrics and ordinary fabrics lies in their ability to elevate the wearer’s presence.
While a standard wool suit clothes the body, a Super 150s wool suit’s subtle shimmer and drape from Loro Piana create an elegant appearance through its specific physical properties.
For example, the high twist of the yarn creates natural wrinkle resistance, the fine fibres (17.5 microns or less) make a subtle lustre when light hits the fabric, the tight weave allows the fabric to drape smoothly while maintaining its shape, and the natural elasticity of fine merino wool enables fluid movement.
Heritage mills like Vitale Barberis Canonico, Holland & Sherry, and Scabal produce cloths with complex weaves and unique finishes that catch light differently from mass-produced fabrics, creating depth and dimension that makes even simple garments appear more distinguished than their contemporary counterparts.
The way refined fabrics move with the body – the soft ripple of a cashmere jacket from Kiton or the crisp break of a cotton shirt from Thomas Mason – creates an impression of effortless elegance that immediately distinguishes.
Luca Cordero di Montezemolo demonstrates this principle through his consistent choice of Loro Piana fabrics, whose natural sheen and superior drape create an aura of sophistication that synthetic blends and trending technical materials cannot replicate.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I ensure my suits fit perfectly without a bespoke tailor?
A: A ready-to-wear suit should fit comfortably on the shoulders without dimpling or pulling. The jacket collar should rest against your shirt collar with no gap. When buttoned, the jacket should create a subtle X shape without pulling. Take these suits to an alterations tailor who can perfect the sleeve length, trouser break, and waist suppression.
Q: What details separate refined shoes from average footwear?
A: Look for cleanly executed closed-channel stitching on the sole, tight heel stacks with flush edges, and consistent brogueing patterns if decorated. Quality shoes feature straight heel caps and precise lasting with no visible glue or rough edges. Goodyear-welted construction allows resoling and indicates quality craftsmanship.
Q: How do I create sophisticated outfit textures?
A: Layer complementary textures like smooth, worsted wool suits with tactile grenadine ties and textured pocket squares. For casual wear, pair rough tweed jackets with smooth merino knitwear. Avoid combining similar textures, which creates a flat appearance.
Q: What alterations provide the most impact for existing clothes?
A: The jacket sleeve should be shortened to show 1/4-1/2 inch of the shirt cuff. Trouser waists should be taken into account to eliminate belt bunching. Jacket waists can be suppressed to create a cleaner silhouette. Trouser length should be altered for a single break or no break, depending on style preference.
Q: How do I assess fabric quality in person?
A: Quality wool fabrics should bounce back when crushed in your hand. Hold them up to light to check for consistent weave density. Rub the fabric between your fingers—quality cloth feels smooth and springy, not rough or limp. For cotton shirts, look for tight, even stitching and no transparency when held to light.
Q: What subtle details make an outfit look considered rather than contrived?
A: Coordinate metal colours across your watch, belt buckle, and cufflinks. Match your leather shoes and belt in both colour and finish. Ensure tie dimples are central and purposeful. Press trouser creases sharply but avoid noticeable pressing marks elsewhere on garments.
Q: What grooming elements complete a refined appearance?
A: Maintain a classic haircut with clean edges, trimmed every 3-4 weeks. Keep nails manicured and clean. Select understated fragrances that stay close to the skin. Polish shoes weekly and tend to them with cedar trees nightly. Press shirts and trousers properly, storing them with appropriate hangers and organisation.
Final Thoughts
True class in menswear comes from understanding that less is more – fewer, better pieces will always trump a wardrobe full of trendy items.
Focus on mastering the fundamentals of fit, colour, and proportion before exploring more advanced style elements.
Remember that genuine elegance lies in the confidence that comes from knowing every element of your appearance has been thoughtfully considered.
Style Like A True Gentleman
Before we say goodbye, here’s one of the best-kept secrets in men’s styling circles, a secret that only a few expert image consultants know or are willing to share.
First and foremost, professional styling requires knowing your unique body shape and seasonal colour palette – paramount factors in choosing perfectly fitting clothes in colours that complement your skin, eyes, and hair.
Only then can a stylist engage in styling by occasion, location, season, and time of day, with garments, footwear, and accessories from stylistically relevant heritage fashion brands to depict high confidence and success.
Best part? You can find your body shape, seasonal colour palette, and ideal fashion style in less than 5 minutes by yourself, for free, thanks to our four simple steps:
1. Find Your Body Shape
Different garments flatter different silhouettes, so knowing your body shape is the first step in dressing like a confident man.
To find out your unique body shape, take our free body shape quiz for men.
Once you know your unique body shape, take the second free quiz to discover your unique colour palette.
2. Find Your Unique Colour Palette
Remember, the garments that compose your outfits come in various colours, and you must ensure that each hue complements your natural colour.
To do that, you have to find out your seasonal colour palette, and you can do it by taking our free seasonal colour quiz for men.
3. Find Your Ideal Fashion Style
By now, you should already know your body shape and unique colour palette; the next step is to discover your ideal personal fashion style.
The fastest and simplest way is to take our free fashion style quiz for men; it includes your ideal style, outfit ideas, relevant fashion brands, and much more.
4. Professional Image Consultancy with The VOU
And if you want to style like a professional, by occasion, location, season, and time of the day, you can always ask our expert image consultants and fashion stylists for help.
Our styling services for men are the most comprehensive and detailed on the market, backed up by leading stylists who will guide you step by step in creating looks that communicate affluence, elegance, and endless accomplishments.
Remember, wearing luxury brands isn’t enough; to look stylish, confident, and successful, you must first know your body shape, colour palette, and ideal personal style, and only then style by occasion, location, season, and time of day.
Contact us today to save headaches, time, and money – it’s time to dress like a confident, successful gentleman of exquisite fashion taste –Â the first styling assessment is on us!